[MOD] Pogo Pin Charging for Verizon Car Dock

Search This thread

ThugEsquire

Senior Member
Jun 4, 2010
294
78
Charging at 1A

How would you go about charging the phone via the pogo pins at 1A instead of 500mA? From your photos I can see that your charger appears as a "USB" charger (500mA) instead of "AC" (1A).

With LTE and Google Navigation, 500mA isn't enough to keep the phone charged, so this charger mod would be inadequate for anyone looking to use their phone as a 4G navigator. However, if you can think of some way to charge at 1A over the pogo pins, I'm very interested. Perhaps that middle pin is important?
 
  • Like
Reactions: deenice

bike2deth

Member
Oct 18, 2007
22
12
Great Writeup

Very well done write-up. I actually ordered some pogo pins about a week ago, just waiting for them to arrive. Originally, I was going to cut a large hole in the dock approximately where the pogos should be, and then fill that with a 2 part epoxy putty, and then push the pins through. The putty would allow for precise adjustment of the pins, and once it sets, should be as solid as epoxy. The putty would also serve to protect the solder joints.

I was not sure I could get the measurements for precision drilled holes correct, but after seeing your write-up I am going to give your way a try first. Thanks again.
 

ellesshoo

Senior Member
Jul 10, 2010
446
137
What device is making the laser lines?

A laser level. Awesome tool for so many things. Don't need to be a big "tinkerer" or "handyman" to make good use of them. Buy one, just hang a picture or two, profit.

Would these work so you could have connectivity to all 3 pogo pins? I'd like to be able to play audio as well as charge the phone.

http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/811-22-003-30-000101/ED8110-03-ND/682271

No, the pitch (spacing b/w pins) is not 3mm like the nexus.


I *think* that might work. I grabbed a set of (older analog) calipers to measure the pogopins on my LTE GNex and found some estimates. It looks to me that the pogopins are spaced ~.112" apart (from center to center) and are ~.042" in diameter. The pins you found on digikey list the spacing between each pin to be ~.100" apart (from center to center) and ~.042" in diameter.
With those measurements in mind, there would be some slight overlap of the outer two pins onto the plastic casing but the pins would likely still strike the connector on the phone.
Keep in mind though that a number of users have noted that the center pin is not used for audio. I have no personal knowledge of this but I am passing the info along. Apparently audio is passed via bluetooth to a receiver in the mount which converts it to a line level output that is seen on the mount itself.

(Also, I guess I cannot include the hyperlink you had because I am too new to xda)

The GN pogo pin spacing is 3mm (.118"). The All the Digi-Key pins mounted in strips seem to be .1" spacing which I think will be marginal, or at least make the position of the pins really critical.

I've place a connector with 2.54mm pitch against the phone and I can assure you that there isn't enough margin for error for both outer pins to make contact. You will absolutely need to find a supplier for pins at 3mm pitch if you absolutely want to install pins in a connector block or you will need to use pins as individual components.

How would you go about charging the phone via the pogo pins at 1A instead of 500mA? From your photos I can see that your charger appears as a "USB" charger (500mA) instead of "AC" (1A).

With LTE and Google Navigation, 500mA isn't enough to keep the phone charged, so this charger mod would be inadequate for anyone looking to use their phone as a 4G navigator. However, if you can think of some way to charge at 1A over the pogo pins, I'm very interested. Perhaps that middle pin is important?

The car charger I used was >500mA, I can't remember what the exact current output it can supply is (it's in the car, used it all day with awesome results, but it's freezing outside). While I was waiting for the mount to come in I made a little jig with pins on it to test the electrical connection. I only used a 500mA wall wart with it but I'll check with a higher current output one tonight if I happen to have one (I own one, I just need to find it). I have a feeling that the phone only accepts USB level currents through the pins though (the touchstone mod through the pins also registers as USB). Other than screen-on w/ GPS it should always be able to supply more power than what is used. Even with GPS you're only going to lose a small fraction compared to using it without power.

Very well done write-up. I actually ordered some pogo pins about a week ago, just waiting for them to arrive. Originally, I was going to cut a large hole in the dock approximately where the pogos should be, and then fill that with a 2 part epoxy putty, and then push the pins through. The putty would allow for precise adjustment of the pins, and once it sets, should be as solid as epoxy. The putty would also serve to protect the solder joints.

I was not sure I could get the measurements for precision drilled holes correct, but after seeing your write-up I am going to give your way a try first. Thanks again.

I had the exact same idea at first. I thought if I could get the position right that it would make things easier in the end. If I didn't, my plan was to hot-knife out a small section and do what you are saying, didn't need to in the end.

I highly recommend people use putty/epoxy to increase the strain relief. Solder joints are for joining two things electrically, not mechanically. The more rubbery/flex the epoxy has the better. There are epoxies that even advertise this right on the packaging, definitely better than just a rigid resin that may crack.
 
  • Like
Reactions: haleybob1228

hedaleth

Member
Feb 11, 2012
10
2
After some careful measurements, the VGN pin spacing seems to be 3mm as noted earlier. Here's a company making 3mm spaced pins:

yokowoconnector.com/productline/pin3_3.html

They show distributors on their site, but have not yet called to see what/where to get these.
 

haleybob1228

Member
Dec 16, 2011
6
1
I have hooked up the pins to a 5Vdc source and it drew 1A current

Via the pogopins? I was only able to draw just under 500mA using the standard 1A AC charger (to a hacked up USB cable to the pogopins). I 'shopped together a pic here:
 

Attachments

  • P1100870_3.jpg
    P1100870_3.jpg
    76.9 KB · Views: 826

bunklung

Senior Member
Mar 20, 2011
532
110
Great work!

As far as the USB charging issue, 500ma is not going to be enough. There is a thread here:

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1487676

There is a discussion about adding a software mod to trigger AC charging over USB. I suspect with the pogo pins, like MHL, there is no means to short the data pins to let the phone know to draw greater than 500ma.
 

Knolly

Senior Member
Oct 18, 2010
178
17
Excellent work on the mod, well done!!!

Hello,

Just dropping by to say hi and to let ya know that this thread has been featured on the XDA Portal:

http://www.xda-developers.com/android/hardware-mod-allows-for-pogo-charging-for-galaxy-nexus/

:)

Just throwing it out there, your description of the mod completely misrepresents what it does. There are zero modifications made to the actual phone, this is a mod to the Verizon dock to add pogo pins. You say "but in the end it will make your Galaxy Nexus charge while in certain pogo pin compatible car docks," but what this entire thread is about is CREATING a pogo pin compatible car dock, not making the phone work in an existing one, since there is yet to be one released.
 

wookaru

Member
Jan 12, 2012
13
4
Another Pogo Pin part#

Measuring the thickness of the dock surface that the pogo pins will have to be mounted through, I get ~ 3.63mm. This is approximate because the inner lining of the dock is a softer, rubbery material, so its hard to say whether or not im compressing that lining any with my calipers.

With that measurement in mind, check out this pogo pin model on DigiKey:
DigiKey Part Number: ED8182-ND
MM Part Number: 0906-2-15-20-75-14-11-0

From my best guess, it looks like these pogo pins will be just the right height to mate well with the phone, with about 1mm of pogo compression. I have some on order and I think they will work beautifully. I'll post my experience when they get here, but I judging from the OP's pics, these should be very similar to the ones he used in this mod.
 
Last edited:

Franky_V

Senior Member
Jul 20, 2010
475
154
I posted this earlier in the long thread about the official car dock with pogo pins that has still not been released but I don't want to derail the main topic of that thread so here is a new one, with a bit more detail added.

........


Your move, Samsung.

Nice Work! :D I actually had a similar plan, along with also creating a custom mount in my center console, but one thing has been holding me back. How EXACTLY did you mount those pogo pins with the epoxy?

It's hard to believe, but not impossible, that your epoxy is going to be strong enough to remain secure by only adhering to the outside. I thought of making a small flat "bar" that held the pins securely and could be mounted via a tiny rivet or tiny bolt or weird wedge to the case. I just am worried that the pressure from the inside of the case, caused by the phone, will cause them to get pushed out with relative ease.

---------- Post added at 09:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 PM ----------

Nice Work! :D I actually had a similar plan, along with also creating a custom mount in my center console, but one thing has been holding me back. How EXACTLY did you mount those pogo pins with the epoxy?

It's hard to believe, but not impossible, that your epoxy is going to be strong enough to remain secure by only adhering to the outside. I thought of making a small flat "bar" that held the pins securely and could be mounted via a tiny rivet or tiny bolt or weird wedge to the case. I just am worried that the pressure from the inside of the case, caused by the phone, will cause them to get pushed out with relative ease.

I actually just had an epiphany as to how I could secure it strongly on MY dock idea, but I'm still curious how you did yours :p
 

mca312

Member
Feb 6, 2012
19
3
Chicago
I ordered 3mm pitch pogo pins from Yokowo and they are perfect for this. (aligned perfectly)

I picked up the Verizon mount today, so hopefully I can have my faux dock this weekend.
 

ellesshoo

Senior Member
Jul 10, 2010
446
137
Nice Work! :D I actually had a similar plan, along with also creating a custom mount in my center console, but one thing has been holding me back. How EXACTLY did you mount those pogo pins with the epoxy?

It's hard to believe, but not impossible, that your epoxy is going to be strong enough to remain secure by only adhering to the outside. I thought of making a small flat "bar" that held the pins securely and could be mounted via a tiny rivet or tiny bolt or weird wedge to the case. I just am worried that the pressure from the inside of the case, caused by the phone, will cause them to get pushed out with relative ease.

---------- Post added at 09:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 PM ----------



I actually just had an epiphany as to how I could secure it strongly on MY dock idea, but I'm still curious how you did yours :p

I put tiny bit of epoxy on the outside of the pins (NOT on the plunger) and then yea, sealed it all in from the outside. It's nice and strong, been using on my 1.5 hour commute (that's round trip) everyday. It's critical that only the plunger is sticking out into the inside or else the phone, when inserted, will almost surely put stress on the epoxy or worse, crack it.
 

Top Liked Posts

  • There are no posts matching your filters.
  • 34
    I posted this earlier in the long thread about the official car dock with pogo pins that has still not been released but I don't want to derail the main topic of that thread so here is a new one, with a bit more detail added.

    I have the steps that I actually took to do this listed below. I think there is probably room for improvement and many ways to accomplish the same end result depending on whatever strong skills you may have or what tools you happen to have. Not every step has a picture associated with it because either I couldn't hold a camera and do it at the same time or it just wasn't worth it to photograph a mundane task like tracing a line.

    Also, keep in mind I was doing this for a GSM nexus. I can test whether an LTE nexus (both standard & extended battery) will charge in the dock sometime on Tuesday or Wednesday.

    Tools & materials used are described throughout. After the steps/pictures I have some concluding thoughts including some lessons learned, things I would do differently, and some alternate ideas others might wish to consider.

    DISCLAIMER: Bad photography ahead.

    Step 1: Grab a good beer, somehow these things always take longer than you expect.
    p20900011024x768.jpg




    Step 2: Tape the phone & dock where you will be measuring with a caliper or holding it in a vise. I used masking tape which turned out to have the extra benefit of being able to see the contact points through it. Take a lot of measurements. You end up drilling the dock blindly so your results all start in how carefully you measure things. Don't use the numbers on my caliper for your own use... Somewhere around the time of these pictures I accidently zeroed the caliper so I don't know which ones are showing correct values or not. I only realized this because I measured everything again and realized something wasn't right with the numbers.
    p20900301024x768.jpg

    p20900271024x768.jpg

    p20900231024x768.jpg




    Step 3: Double check your measurements, make sure everything is square... I want to say the following picture is over board on my part... but it really is a fine line between making contact b/w the pins and the phone 100% of the time, 50% of the time, or hardly ever.
    p20900201024x768.jpg




    Step 4: I used a pencil to trace a line from the contacts up the side of the phone, and onto the front glass. I then place the phone in the dock and put a new piece of tape from the edge of the phone around the edge of the dock and traced the line back over the dock so that I had a good reference for where to drill in the side-to-side dimension. The vertical dimension was purely based off my measurement from the face of the phone down to the contact points. Because the glass is curved, take separate measurements for each pin.
    p20900181024x768.jpg




    Step 5: At this point I used a 1/16" drill bit to make two holes and then pushed the pogo pins through. Before proceeding I hooked up 5V power using aligator clips to the pins and put the phone in the dock just to make sure everything was in the right place before I really made anything permanent. In this picture the pins are only held in place by friction. The dock is very rubbery at this location which is nice for holding the pins in place. You can see how well you lined up the holes by placing the phone in the dock and looking through the holes. You absolutely want to see the entire gold contact nicely centered in there. If not, fix things now before proceeding.
    p20900371024x768.jpg




    Step 6: I then took a car charger and cut the micro USB end off. There really isn't much to picture here. I happened to use a car charger with a permanently attached cord so there were no data wires. If you use a USB cord that contains 4 wires, usually red, green, white, and black, just tape off the green and white (date + & data -), and use the red (+ 5V DC) and black (ground). The pogo pin closest to the power button is the ground and the pin closest to the bottom is for 5V (I confirmed this for both the LTE & GSM models). Middle pin, assuming the same paradigm used for the nexus one, is for signaling the type of dock and the bluetooth id of the dock.



    Step 7: I soldered the 5V and GND wires to the pins as described, sealed some exposed conductor with heat shrink, and used an epoxy to permanently seal them in place. You want to make sure you use an epoxy that bonds plastic and I would also recommend one that advertises some level of flex/gel. If it's too rigid or poorly bonded to plastic you could end up cracking off on the very first insertion. Make absolutely sure that the pogo pin plunger is the only part of the pogo pin that is on the inside of the dock. Even a small portion of the rigid part will cause you problems when you push the phone in and it pops the pins back out or damages the epoxy.
    p21100611024x768.jpg





    So, did it work...
    p21100521024x768.jpg

    p21100801024x768.jpg


    After waiting enough time for the epoxy to set I got what I had hoped for.


    I also added an NFC tag to the inside that I'm using to turn on bluetooth, set car mode, etc, etc...

    p21100731024x768.jpg


    p21100721024x768.jpg


    Here's a few extra pics:
    p21100631024x768.jpg


    p21100661024x768.jpg


    p21100601024x768.jpg



    It successfully charges my GSM nexus with both the standard and extended battery. It would appear to me that the dock holds the phone with the position of the front glass relative to the lip of the dock in a constant position. So I'm assuming my wife's LTE nexus will be able to charge on the dock as well (will test on Tuesday/Wednesday). That would be really good news for VZW people who aren't up to the modification but would like to buy the GSM dock if it ever comes to market. At this point at least, it can concluded that it's possible to make a dock that charges the GSM model with both the standard and extended battery with the pogo pins in a fixed position.

    Now that it's been done once the thing that would make this an extremely fast and easy mod in my mind would be a drill guide jig. An L-shaped jig with drill guide holes that you simple place against a reference point on the dock and drill in the holes and never have to worry about all that measuring and how well you measure.

    I also wish I hadn't soldered the pins to a fixed car charger. Now I'm tied to that thing unless I want to cut the cord and splice a new USB plug on the end. In hindsight I actually wish I had used a 2 conductor "boot" close to the pogo pins that would allow me change the cord easy and provide some level of emergency strain relief or break-free ability if the cord were to get yanked. On the topic of strain relief, this is why I recommend right angle leads off the pogo pins. It also might be a good idea to adhere the cord to a spot on the back of the part that holds the phone so that a snap tug on the cord pulls on that and not your pogo pin connection. It feels very durable and I don't expect any problems it's just something I would recommend.

    As for the NFC tag, I would use the thin adhesive tags, you don't want anything thick enough to change the contact position. I used a 1K tag so that there was plenty of storage for long instructions/information that may be handy to write to it. Right now it just launches car home, maxes the media volume, starts bluetooth, turns off wifi, and sets a high brightness level.

    Finally, I wish I had gone ahead and installed a middle pogo pin with a free hanging wire lead off of it. Just in case I felt up to going down that rabbit hole in the future. I wish I still had a nexus one dock around to see if the signal pin on those docks would communicate on the galaxy nexus middle pin. I know, different OEMs (HTC) but the code is Google's so I figure there's a 50/50 chance it actually would work.





    Your move, Samsung.
    10
    middle pin spdif verification

    I found this forum yesterday and was really interested. I also happened to be sitting in an Electrical Engineering lab so when people were asking if anyone had an oscilloscope to check out the middle pin I got right to it.
    I have to say it was a pain to keep bare wires in contact with the pins on my Galaxy Nexus (Verizon) but here is how I managed it.
    IMG_20120412_134441.jpg

    It may be hard to see but there are some small exposed wires in the bread board to make contact with the pins
    IMG_20120412_134448.jpg

    Zoomed out a little, red is +5V, black is ground, and white is the elusive middle pin.
    Setup.jpg

    There it is all together, the box was to weigh down the phone to keep contact on the pins.

    It took some work but I finally got a signal on the middle pin using an oscilloscope here is the result of that
    scope_3.bmp


    This didn't mean much to me until I looked up the spdif standard on Wikipedia
    I was able to decode the signal and find I caught a 32-bit subframe in that image
    the pattern 11100100 is the "W" preamble which means this subframe has information for the right channel, following that pattern is
    0000-Auxiliary-audio-databits
    00000010100011011111-the sampled audio
    0- Validity(error-flag)
    0- subcode-data
    0- channel-status-information
    1- parity bit (not including preamble)

    In the end the conclusion is that the middle pin does indeed send audio out through spdif. The only I can think to make use of it besides building your own spdif to analog converter would be to take the $90 Samsung dock apart and use that one in the car dock.
    3
    I received the usb cords last night and promptly put them in. I used a shorter 12 inch extension cable to run the female connector from the base to the pogo pins. I still haven't received the pins yet so I am still waiting on those.

    6964787123_821d30d855.jpg


    6818667044_ba0dc75155_b.jpg


    6818667248_97ca848509_b.jpg

    I had to remove the support rib to make room for the usb wire. I then drilled a hole to pass the wire through the back toward the phone. For the life of me I cannot figure out how they wired the OEM charger by samsung that has never come out.

    6964787747_e28c42dd14_b.jpg


    6964787935_76c114b858_b.jpg

    I had to remove this little support rib as well to make way for the female connector so it would sit flush with the bottom.

    6818668108_a76586a67b_b.jpg

    I modified the housing for the female connector so it would sit flush with the outside wall of the car dock.

    6964788585_bc991a84c1_b.jpg

    I measured and cut a small hole in the dock for the female connector to fit through.

    I started with my exacto knife to start a small hole and then used my drill to drill holes close to one another.

    I then cut out the small pieces in between the holes and smoothed the rough edges out with my exacto knife again.

    After that, I used epoxy once I made sure it would fit good. Here is a pic with the male connector plugged in.

    6964788845_586504516b_b.jpg


    6818668868_92cb7f33ab_b.jpg

    Here the case is back together and the wire is ready to be attached to the pogo pins (which haven't come in yet)

    6964789325_fd2a57e5aa_b.jpg

    All closed up and ready for pogo pins.

    6818669288_a5cb8b6894_b.jpg


    I added my NFC tag and it works fine on the back of the black plastic piece that says samsung on it. Now I am just waiting on the pogo pins to arrive so I can get this thing in my car.

    BTW all pics taken with my GN:D
    2
    Dunno if you guys saw this, but that shiny panel pops right off...uploadfromtaptalk1330392058279.jpg

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
    2
    Another Pogo Pin part#

    Measuring the thickness of the dock surface that the pogo pins will have to be mounted through, I get ~ 3.63mm. This is approximate because the inner lining of the dock is a softer, rubbery material, so its hard to say whether or not im compressing that lining any with my calipers.

    With that measurement in mind, check out this pogo pin model on DigiKey:
    DigiKey Part Number: ED8182-ND
    MM Part Number: 0906-2-15-20-75-14-11-0

    From my best guess, it looks like these pogo pins will be just the right height to mate well with the phone, with about 1mm of pogo compression. I have some on order and I think they will work beautifully. I'll post my experience when they get here, but I judging from the OP's pics, these should be very similar to the ones he used in this mod.