[Repair guide] OnePlus One Full Disassembly/Screen Replacement + Re-assembly Tutorial
- Thread starter vantt1
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This sounds very similar to what I had with a recent replacement screen. I got the screen, got everything switch over and hooked up. When I booted the screen everything is extremely slow. The boot animation took a very long time(like 15 minutes) just to show up and the phone never fully booted. The phone got very hot. I tried flashing different roms, going to back to lollipop, etc and nothing fixed it. I swapped in the old screen (which had a dead touch spot), and the phone booted up with perfect speed.
The next screen I got, showed up and was missing all of the brass screw catches. I.e.: there was nothing to thread the screws in to!
I'm now on my 6th replacement screen after breaking my original screen in June. 2 had major dead touch spots, 1 worked okay for 2 months and then developed dead touch area, 1 had the slow screen issue, last had no screw catches... I'm about ready to toss this POS.
I need a little advice, I followed the steps and my phone powers on, vibrates and the backlight flashes momentarily, but the new screen does not turn on. I can tell most things are working, the battery is taking a charge and the indicator light is flashing that I have messages, also I think I took a picture of myself looking pretty confused. Any advice on getting the screen to work.
Hi, my oneplus one phone got into water. Everything looks fine except the center of the phone screen (between the volume adjuster and power button) lost senses, i cant touch or type anything on the gap. Which part should i buy and replace? Sorry for my poor grammar.
Touch won't work after replacing screen?
So I just replaced the screen and did every step correctly, but after turning on the phone the screen lights up but the touch doesn't work! Is it because the screen is faulty? I bought it from ebay so I don't think it's the screen . I had some problems gluing the screen to the chassis maybe it's because of that? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
So I just replaced the screen and did every step correctly, but after turning on the phone the screen lights up but the touch doesn't work! Is it because the screen is faulty? I bought it from ebay so I don't think it's the screen . I had some problems gluing the screen to the chassis maybe it's because of that? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I just discovered that my phone's screen has separated from the rest of the chassis in the lower right corner. I can lift it and see a little bit of the inside. Is there a way to reattach it without taking the phone apart?
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
Hi I need some help. When I stsrted replacing my broken display with a new unit I purchased from AliExpress I broke a small component on the MoBo next to the digitizer connector. I marked it with an arrow in the picture.
Right now my digitizer is funky. It works but the bottom part is not as responsive as the top part. While I'm holding the phone, response is there., just slow at times, especially when typing fast it is really annoying. The top part of the screen is OK, though. If i place the phobe on a surface and Im not holding it, the bottom part the and the touch keys are non responsive.
Could someone use a multimeter ot an oscilloscope and measure their part and tell me what it is. From the looks of it (and the way it works) it's either capacitor, diode or a pull-down resistor. Can you tell me if it is a resistor how many ohms it is, and if it is a capacitor or diode the capacitance and the polarity.
I can offer buying a beer to someone either through PayPal or IRL, cause right now I'm pretty broke, yet I need the phone as it helps with job searches.
Thanks again to anyone good enough and willing to help me
Right now my digitizer is funky. It works but the bottom part is not as responsive as the top part. While I'm holding the phone, response is there., just slow at times, especially when typing fast it is really annoying. The top part of the screen is OK, though. If i place the phobe on a surface and Im not holding it, the bottom part the and the touch keys are non responsive.
Could someone use a multimeter ot an oscilloscope and measure their part and tell me what it is. From the looks of it (and the way it works) it's either capacitor, diode or a pull-down resistor. Can you tell me if it is a resistor how many ohms it is, and if it is a capacitor or diode the capacitance and the polarity.
I can offer buying a beer to someone either through PayPal or IRL, cause right now I'm pretty broke, yet I need the phone as it helps with job searches.
Thanks again to anyone good enough and willing to help me
Attachments
So I just recently replaced the screen on a OPO for the second time, and I probably broke the earpiece block the first time.
So since I had to open it up for the new screen I also ordered a new earpiece block. After the replacements I see purple(ish) streaks running down the screen and the earphone still doesn't seem to work even after trying a few software fixes I've found.
Does it seem likely that these problems come from improper installations (the first screen replacement I did, did not have any sort of visual problems) or did I get unlucky and get two defective parts at once.
So since I had to open it up for the new screen I also ordered a new earpiece block. After the replacements I see purple(ish) streaks running down the screen and the earphone still doesn't seem to work even after trying a few software fixes I've found.
Does it seem likely that these problems come from improper installations (the first screen replacement I did, did not have any sort of visual problems) or did I get unlucky and get two defective parts at once.
mine is stuck in recovery mode any ideas? I am using Phil's and it will not fully boot and cannot push anything to it. Wiping and flashing a rom doesn't help. Should flash twrp via otg, to see if that will take or should check the ribbon cables ? also the lights on the capacitive buttons are not lighting up either, plus i cannot use the down button on the screen Phil's or the down volume button in Phil's. one last thing cannot get into fastboot.
Last edited:
volume buttons
Hello!
I have almost successfully replaced my LCD(with frame) on my OPO. Everything is working great, only volume buttons are not working. There is no reaction when I press the button (up or down).
I checked wires from volume buttons to pins on motherboard (as it's told here: "youtube/watch?v=DBv_95ZCDvc") and it seems they are OK..
Any suggestions what could I check? Is there any other place where maybe I forgot to connect something ?
Thank you !
Hello!
I have almost successfully replaced my LCD(with frame) on my OPO. Everything is working great, only volume buttons are not working. There is no reaction when I press the button (up or down).
I checked wires from volume buttons to pins on motherboard (as it's told here: "youtube/watch?v=DBv_95ZCDvc") and it seems they are OK..
Any suggestions what could I check? Is there any other place where maybe I forgot to connect something ?
Thank you !
Yes, it has to have the same specs as the original panel or else it won't work.
Does anyone have a schematic diagram for OnePlus One?
I broke my screen, replaced it, but also broke charger connection, so I need to braze it...
THANK YOU!!!
I broke my screen, replaced it, but also broke charger connection, so I need to braze it...
THANK YOU!!!
I'm having the same problem. My ear mic doesn't work when the back cover is on, however, when the back cover is off I can hear from the ear mic. When I put the back cover on, it seems to squeeze the ear mic and it won't work. Anyone else have this problem or a solution?
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Disclaimer: Perform the following repairs at your own risk. This thread is for educational purposes only. You will void your warranty if you proceed. But that's implied, right?
Disassembly
Many of you will already know how troublesome sending a phone back to the manufacturer for repairs is. This is especially the case for OnePlus, whose after-sales support isn't exceptional, and compared to the price of the OPO itself, their repair costs are by no means affordable ($201 and an unknown amount of days). I've read that a number of forum members have repaired their screens themselves using parts from the internet, but it wasn't all that well documented. So as a mobile phone repairer by profession, I thought it would help a lot of people with broken screens for me to write up a detailed walkthrough/tutorial teaching them how to fix it themselves. Let's get to it!
New: a video! (credits to @stephenlotus)
Note that this guide can be used to replace any modular component; the StyleSwap cover, camera, charging port, you name it - just disassemble your phone until you reach your desired step, replace the faulty/damaged part, then re-assemble it!
Actually obtaining the replacement part? Well, that's another story
Equipment/Materials:
Precision screwdriver set (cross-head/Phillip's head, flat-head)- Sharp craft knife/Stanley knife
- Plastic pry tools
- Fine-tipped tweezers
- Stainless steel pry tools
- Thin, rigid cards/guitar picks
- Hairdryer/industrial hot air gun (recommended)
- Air blower (use this to clean the cameras and lenses before closing it up (not your breath))
- A full screen assembly (not just the see-through glass digitizer)*
- A roll (or a couple of different widths) of double-sided 3M repair tape or pre-cut 3M tape (see second post)
*The screen can be bought from various sellers on the internet starting from about $80 for the more repair-friendly version, depending on postage and stuff. Given the exclusive nature of the OnePlus One, any seller that sells a "Genuine/Original/OEM" screen assembly is 95% guaranteed to be an original screen. It isn't profitable for third party manufacturers to produce aftermarket replacements or re-manufacture working LCDs with broken glass (glass broken but LCD still works, remove broken glass and re-laminate a new one onto it). The market is small, because most people would still prefer to RMA their phones.
Also note that this guide assumes you will be re-using the old frame/chassis. If you plan to replace it too, then you will need to remove the earpiece grille (if the new screen doesn't have it) from the old screen, and it's best to move the foam lining from the old frame to the new frame too.
I don't think I'm allowed to disclose sites that sell "original" OnePlus accessories/parts, so get Googling!
Actually, I can now. Mwahahahahaha!
You can buy the screen assembly from sites like eBay and AliExpress. I recommend getting the fully assembled screen, complete with capacitive key backlights:
www.aliexpress.com/item/for-Oneplus...zer-assembly-by-free-shipping/2022582516.html
The one without the button backlights is cheaper, but you'll have to take it from your old screen:
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shippi...mbly-For-Oneplus-One-1-A0001/32245677673.html
Do not get the glass/digitizer only, unless you're up to the challenge, your LCD still works and you want the great savings:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Orig...or-OnePlus-One-Free-shipping/32243992827.html
Note: there's absolutely nothing wrong with my OnePlus One (well, except for very mild touchscreen issues). If I were to wait until I actually break it (which is never in a million years), I'd never get around to writing this tutorial. Your experience may vary, depending on severity of damage.
Step 1: Eject the SIM tray.
Step 2: Remove the StyleSwap cover. Using a plastic pry tool, start by lightly wedging it underneath the SIM slot (do not pry), and run it across the gap to release the clips. This ensures minimal/no damage to the battery and/or scratches to the StyleSwap cover, unlike using OnePlus' "Press and Peel" method. Never forget.
Step 3: Using a knife with a sharp tip, remove the rubber screw caps covering the three screws in the middle of the camera lens cover.
Step 4: Unscrew all the screws, and put them in a safe place where you won't lose them.
Step 5: Using a plastic pry tool, pry off the camera cover from the corner near the power button or volume button. Caution! The battery flex may be stuck to the cover, so don't lift it up all the way. Detach it from the cover before fully removing it.
Step 6: Using the aforementioned method, do the same for the speaker assembly. Remove the rubber screw caps, unscrew all the screws and store in a safe place. Note how the screws covered with the caps are smaller.
Step 7: Pry off the speaker assembly, starting from the USB port.
Step 8: Use a plastic pry tool to detach the battery flex connector if it hasn't detached yet, then carefully wedge a stainless steel pry tool underneath the battery, starting at the bottom left corner. This side has less adhesive, so it's easier to start on this side. DO NOT PUSH DOWN INTO THE CHASSIS. Delicate flex cables reside here. Keep all pushing of the pry tool as horizontal as possible.
Step 9: Once the left side of the battery has lifted enough, change directions of the pry tool. Use the left side of the chassis as a leverage point, and lift the battery out of the battery well. Be careful not to puncture or deform the battery. You can use a pry tool to cut the adhesive on the right side off the battery.
Step 10: Unplug all the flex cable connectors off the logic board. There are 4 along the bottom edge and 1 to the left of the camera. DO NOT USE THE LOGIC BOARD AS A LEVERAGE POINT. There are delicate surface mount components on the logic board that can easily be damaged accidentally and are nearly impossible to replace. Hold down the logic board, and pull the flex connector up and away from the board.
Alternatively, if you want to cut to the chase and just replace the screen without removing all that other stuff, you can, by only disconnecting the LCD and digitizer flex (rightmost flex along the bottom and the wide flex in the top left corner respectively) and skipping to Step 19. Just remember to remove the plastic block in Step 16 and also be careful not to overheat the earpiece area.
Step 11: Unscrew the screw holding down the logic board. It is located next to the power button. Do not lose it for mix it up with the other screws. It is different in every dimension.
Step 12: Using a sharp knife, peel the button flexes off the chassis, making sure the bottom edge comes off first and be careful not to cut the flex.
Step 13: Push the digitizer flex away from the logic board so it doesn't get caught, and lift the logic board up from the chassis in an arc motion, starting from the top left corner. Rotate it clockwise while doing so.
Step 14: There is still one connector still connected to the logic board on the underside, and that's the cellular antenna connector. Pull the antenna slightly out of its groove.
Step 15: Detach the antenna connector from the logic board using a plastic pry tool. You can use the logic board as the leverage point here, but make sure there aren't any delicate components nearby.
Step 16: Using a pair of fine-tipped tweezers, remove the plastic block that sits next to the digitizer flex connector.
iFixit's teardown does not cover this. If you don't remove it, the flex connector will be caught and will not come out.
Step 17: Carefully, using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the earpiece. This prevents the diaphragm from being damaged later on, when the hot air gun is used.
CAUTION: the earpiece's diaphragm and voice coil has the tendency to fall apart and separate itself from the rest of the earpiece. Be careful.
Step 18 (optional if doing a screen replacement, just don't damage them in the process): Peel the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex and USB port flex from the chassis, and remove them.
Step 19: Evenly heat the bezels of the screen using a hairdryer on high heat setting or a hot air gun on a med-high heat setting (~300 °C/~600 °F) on low airflow setting. This softens the adhesive holding the screen in place, making removal easier. Caution! The chassis can become very hot, as it is metal. Do not heat one area for a prolonged period of time, as it can permanently deform the plastic bezel surrounding the screen (or damage the LCD/digitizer, if it's a working one you intend to reuse).
This step I do not have exact instructions for, because my screen isn't broken. I had to be careful not to break it, as it was my only screen. You can use a knife to pry off broken pieces of glass.
WARNING: If you are removing a working intact display and intend to keep it that way, do NOT separate any of the LCD layers from the glass. As it is laminated, separating it will result in permanent damage to the display assembly.
I don't know what this copper does. It doesn't seem significant. New screen assemblies don't seem to have it. Also note that the screen is removed as a single piece assembly.
Step 20: Scrape off the copper bits and the old adhesive from the chassis using a tool of your choice, making sure to not damage anything else.
Step 21: Clean up your work area to prepare for re-assembly! Be careful of broken glass bits.
Obligatory exploded view pic:
60Re-assembly
Now might be a good time to fix your grounding issues! If your touch issues arose from the increase of the device's temperature, you may have to cover the whole metallic back of the LCD with tape too.
Note: if the screen still has issues even when isolated as below, then the screen itself may be faulty.
To re-assemble it, it pretty much is just going through the steps in reverse order. When the phone is fully disassembled and nothing is adhered into place, now's the time to test your replacement screen assembly. You can do so by fitting the screen into the frame without using any adhesive, connect it to the logic board along with the battery and turn it on, or if you're lazy like me, just connect it up like this:
It is not recommended to keep the phone powered on for any longer than a few minutes like this, because the logic board effectively has no heatsink.
Step 1: As mentioned before, the old glue can no longer be reused, so we'll have to apply some adhesive tape, cut by hand. If this were a mainstream phone, it'd be pretty easy to get machine-cut 3M tape that fits the bezel perfectly, to ensure an optimal fit.
Sadly, this isn't the case, so we'll have to resort to rolls of that tape of various widths. You can buy these from eBay by searching "3M double sided repair tape".
Update: pre-cut tape is now an option! You can get it on AliExpress .
I personally used 1 mm for the side bezels and 3 mm for the top and bottom, but experiment to obtain maximum coverage. Make sure you don't cover any sensor holes. Usually, this tape in roll form isn't adequately thick, so double up and use two layers.
IMPORTANT: Check that there aren't remnants of broken glass on the bezel when you install the screen or tape. They can cause the screen to easily break.
Also check that you've moved the earpiece grille and capacitive key backlight pads (if the new screen doesn't have them) over from the old screen to the new one. And if you really want to, move the foam ring surrounding the front camera hole in the glass to. It prevents light from the LCD's backlight from leaking into view.
Step 2: Thread the flexes through their respective holes, and fit the screen into the chassis. Lightly heat the bezels (not too much; you don't want to damage the new LCD) to soften the adhesive, and place the screen face down on a clean, flat surface. Push down on the chassis with moderate force.
Step 3: Replace therubberplastic block that sits in the digitizer flex slot.
Step 4: Make sure the proximity sensor, light sensor and front camera holes are clean and aren't covered by tape.
Step 5: If they were removed during the disassembly, replace the speaker/antenna/vibrate motor flex, then the USB port flex. Watch out for that weird bit that sticks out on the left ide of the speaker flex. Don't forget to reconnect the cellular antenna down the bottom.
Step 6: Put the earpiece back into the chassis. It should be oriented such that the two contact points are next to the digitizer flex.
Step 7: Reconnect the cellular antenna at the logic board. Do not push hardly unless you're absolutely sure it's aligned correctly.
Step 8: Tuck the antenna back into its groove.
Step 9: When reseating the logic board, ensure that the flex connectors stay clear from it. You don't want to have them end up underneath the logic board. Check that the board is flush with the screw holes.
Step 10: Make sure the front camera is also sitting flush. If it isn't, the camera cover may not fit, and the front camera will not be centered.
Step 11: Reconnect all the flex cables, and replace the logic board screw.
Step 12: Stick the button flexes back down onto the chassis.
Step 13: Straighten all the flex cables by lifting them up and stretching them towards the logic board, the stick them back down.
Step 14: Put the battery back in, then reconnect the flex.
Step 15: Replace the camera cover and screw it back into place.
Step 15b: Replace the tamper seal/water damage indicator (you won't get warranty either way, but might as well)
Step 16: Put the speaker assembly back in, and screw it into place.
Step 17: Replace all the rubber screw caps.
Step 18: Replace the StyleSwap cover, and put the SIM tray (with card) back in. Although the tray fits either way (like in Sony's Xperia Z series phones), the side with the gold contacts should face up when the phone faces down. Inserting it upside down will result in the phone not reading the SIM card, and risk damage to the internal SIM reader. LG, HTC and Apple's phones' SIM trays are designed to only fit one-way.
Step 19: Turn the phone on, and enjoy the results of your efforts!
4Added to OnePlus One index thread:
[INDEX] OnePlus One Resources Compilation Roll-Up
Transmitted via Bacon2
You must have disconnected the front camera cables when you reassembled. This has happened to me too so I dis-assembled again, snap the front camera cable and reassembled again.2
Behind the LCD there's a light box that shines up so you can see the display. Without it the screen would be completely black and unreadable.
In the process of Using UV glue to adhere the glass to the lcd 99% of the time a little spills over the side and seeps into the backlight causing it to fade.
I could have taken the backlight off but there's always a chance that you wont get all the backlight to come off in one piece.
So you just put a new backlight on and your good to go.
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