[GUIDE]HipKat’s Ultimate Guide To Everything Evo 4G.

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Sik98GT

Member
Mar 31, 2012
24
6
Awesome Guide, wish i would have actually taken a look at it when i first rooted my evo could have saved myself a lot of headaches LOL
 

sdalton37

New member
Apr 19, 2012
4
2
Hey HipKat,

If I am running CM 7 right now and move to MIUI, do I need to worry about the GPS fix since they are both AOSP? I did the GPS thing along with my profile and prl updates when I changed over to CM a while back.
 

sdalton37

New member
Apr 19, 2012
4
2
I THINK The newer MIUI has the fix in it, but I do it everytime, of for no other reason than to go back to sense and update my Profile and PRL.

Give it a shot and see if it works and let us know. I'll post it in here

Sorry this took me a bit to get to, but it looks like it works fine without going back to sense, but I can't get A2SD installed and then actually booted up. Each time I try and flash it, I get stuck on the htc EVO 4G white screen.... sat for 15 mins and nothing. Not sure where the problem is.
 
Wish I had room in the OP's for this, lol

Thanks to deedii for posting this in another forum:

Android CPU governors explained



1: OnDemand
2: OndemandX
3: Performance
4: Powersave
5: Conservative
6: Userspace
7: Min Max
8: Interactive
9: InteractiveX
10: Smartass
11: SmartassV2
12: Scary
13: Lagfree
14: Smoothass
15: Brazilianwax
16: SavagedZen
17: Lazy
18: Lionheart
19: LionheartX
20: Intellidemand
21: Hotplug




1: OnDemand Governor:
This governor has a hair trigger for boosting clockspeed to the maximum speed set by the user. If the CPU load placed by the user abates, the OnDemand governor will slowly step back down through the kernel's frequency steppings until it settles at the lowest possible frequency, or the user executes another task to demand a ramp.

OnDemand has excellent interface fluidity because of its high-frequency bias, but it can also have a relatively negative effect on battery life versus other governors. OnDemand is commonly chosen by smartphone manufacturers because it is well-tested, reliable, and virtually guarantees the smoothest possible performance for the phone. This is so because users are vastly more likely to ***** about performance than they are the few hours of extra battery life another governor could have granted them.

This final fact is important to know before you read about the Interactive governor: OnDemand scales its clockspeed in a work queue context. In other words, once the task that triggered the clockspeed ramp is finished, OnDemand will attempt to move the clockspeed back to minimum. If the user executes another task that triggers OnDemand's ramp, the clockspeed will bounce from minimum to maximum. This can happen especially frequently if the user is multi-tasking. This, too, has negative implications for battery life.


2: OndemandX:
Basically an ondemand with suspend/wake profiles. This governor is supposed to be a battery friendly ondemand. When screen is off, max frequency is capped at 500 mhz. Even though ondemand is the default governor in many kernel and is considered safe/stable, the support for ondemand/ondemandX depends on CPU capability to do fast frequency switching which are very low latency frequency transitions. I have read somewhere that the performance of ondemand/ondemandx were significantly varying for different i/o schedulers. This is not true for most of the other governors. I personally feel ondemand/ondemandx goes best with SIO I/O scheduler.


3: Performance Governor:
This locks the phone's CPU at maximum frequency. While this may sound like an ugly idea, there is growing evidence to suggest that running a phone at its maximum frequency at all times will allow a faster race-to-idle. Race-to-idle is the process by which a phone completes a given task, such as syncing email, and returns the CPU to the extremely efficient low-power state. This still requires extensive testing, and a kernel that properly implements a given CPU's C-states (low power states).


4: Powersave Governor:
The opposite of the Performance governor, the Powersave governor locks the CPU frequency at the lowest frequency set by the user.


5:Conservative Governor:
This biases the phone to prefer the lowest possible clockspeed as often as possible. In other words, a larger and more persistent load must be placed on the CPU before the conservative governor will be prompted to raise the CPU clockspeed. Depending on how the developer has implemented this governor, and the minimum clockspeed chosen by the user, the conservative governor can introduce choppy performance. On the other hand, it can be good for battery life.

The Conservative Governor is also frequently described as a "slow OnDemand," if that helps to give you a more complete picture of its functionality.


6: Userspace Governor:
This governor, exceptionally rare for the world of mobile devices, allows any program executed by the user to set the CPU's operating frequency. This governor is more common amongst servers or desktop PCs where an application (like a power profile app) needs privileges to set the CPU clockspeed.


7: Min Max
well this governor makes use of only min & maximum frequency based on workload... no intermediate frequencies are used.


8: Interactive Governor:
Much like the OnDemand governor, the Interactive governor dynamically scales CPU clockspeed in response to the workload placed on the CPU by the user. This is where the similarities end. Interactive is significantly more responsive than OnDemand, because it's faster at scaling to maximum frequency.

Unlike OnDemand, which you'll recall scales clockspeed in the context of a work queue, Interactive scales the clockspeed over the course of a timer set arbitrarily by the kernel developer. In other words, if an application demands a ramp to maximum clockspeed (by placing 100% load on the CPU), a user can execute another task before the governor starts reducing CPU frequency. This can eliminate the frequency bouncing discussed in the OnDemand section. Because of this timer, Interactive is also better prepared to utilize intermediate clockspeeds that fall between the minimum and maximum CPU frequencies. This is another pro-battery life benefit of Interactive.

However, because Interactive is permitted to spend more time at maximum frequency than OnDemand (for device performance reasons), the battery-saving benefits discussed above are effectively negated. Long story short, Interactive offers better performance than OnDemand (some say the best performance of any governor) and negligibly different battery life.

Interactive also makes the assumption that a user turning the screen on will shortly be followed by the user interacting with some application on their device. Because of this, screen on triggers a ramp to maximum clockspeed, followed by the timer behavior described above.


9: InteractiveX Governor:
Created by kernel developer "Imoseyon," the InteractiveX governor is based heavily on the Interactive governor, enhanced with tuned timer parameters to better balance battery vs. performance. The InteractiveX governor's defining feature, however, is that it locks the CPU frequency to the user's lowest defined speed when the screen is off.


10: Smartass
Is based on the concept of the interactive governor.
I have always agreed that in theory the way interactive works – by taking over the idle loop – is very attractive. I have never managed to tweak it so it would behave decently in real life. Smartass is a complete rewrite of the code plus more. I think its a success. Performance is on par with the “old” minmax and I think smartass is a bit more responsive. Battery life is hard to quantify precisely but it does spend much more time at the lower frequencies.
Smartass will also cap the max frequency when sleeping to 352Mhz (or if your min frequency is higher than 352 – why?! – it will cap it to your min frequency). Lets take for example the 528/176 kernel, it will sleep at 352/176. No need for sleep profiles any more!"


11: SmartassV2:
Version 2 of the original smartass governor from Erasmux. Another favorite for many a people. The governor aim for an "ideal frequency", and ramp up more aggressively towards this freq and less aggressive after. It uses different ideal frequencies for screen on and screen off, namely awake_ideal_freq and sleep_ideal_freq. This governor scales down CPU very fast (to hit sleep_ideal_freq soon) while screen is off and scales up rapidly to awake_ideal_freq (500 mhz for GS2 by default) when screen is on. There's no upper limit for frequency while screen is off (unlike Smartass). So the entire frequency range is available for the governor to use during screen-on and screen-off state. The motto of this governor is a balance between performance and battery.


12: Scary
A new governor wrote based on conservative with some smartass features, it scales accordingly to conservatives laws. So it will start from the bottom, take a load sample, if it's above the upthreshold, ramp up only one speed at a time, and ramp down one at a time. It will automatically cap the off screen speeds to 245Mhz, and if your min freq is higher than 245mhz, it will reset the min to 120mhz while screen is off and restore it upon screen awakening, and still scale accordingly to conservatives laws. So it spends most of its time at lower frequencies. The goal of this is to get the best battery life with decent performance. It will give the same performance as conservative right now, it will get tweaked over time.


13: Lagfree:
Lagfree is similar to ondemand. Main difference is it's optimization to become more battery friendly. Frequency is gracefully decreased and increased, unlike ondemand which jumps to 100% too often. Lagfree does not skip any frequency step while scaling up or down. Remember that if there's a requirement for sudden burst of power, lagfree can not satisfy that since it has to raise cpu through each higher frequency step from current. Some users report that video playback using lagfree stutters a little.


14: Smoothass:
The same as the Smartass “governor” But MUCH more aggressive & across the board this one has a better battery life that is about a third better than stock KERNEL


15: Brazilianwax:
Similar to smartassV2. More aggressive ramping, so more performance, less battery


16: SavagedZen:
Another smartassV2 based governor. Achieves good balance between performance & battery as compared to brazilianwax.


17: Lazy:
This governor from Ezekeel is basically an ondemand with an additional parameter min_time_state to specify the minimum time CPU stays on a frequency before scaling up/down. The Idea here is to eliminate any instabilities caused by fast frequency switching by ondemand. Lazy governor polls more often than ondemand, but changes frequency only after completing min_time_state on a step overriding sampling interval. Lazy also has a screenoff_maxfreq parameter which when enabled will cause the governor to always select the maximum frequency while the screen is off.


18: Lionheart:
Lionheart is a conservative-based governor which is based on samsung's update3 source.
The tunables (such as the thresholds and sampling rate) were changed so the governor behaves more like the performance one, at the cost of battery as the scaling is very aggressive.


19: LionheartX
LionheartX is based on Lionheart but has a few changes on the tunables and features a suspend profile based on Smartass governor.


20: Intellidemand:
Intellidemand aka Intelligent Ondemand from Faux is yet another governor that's based on ondemand. Unlike what some users believe, this governor is not the replacement for OC Daemon (Having different governors for sleep and awake). The original intellidemand behaves differently according to GPU usage. When GPU is really busy (gaming, maps, benchmarking, etc) intellidemand behaves like ondemand. When GPU is 'idling' (or moderately busy), intellidemand limits max frequency to a step depending on frequencies available in your device/kernel for saving battery. This is called browsing mode. We can see some 'traces' of interactive governor here. Frequency scale-up decision is made based on idling time of CPU. Lower idling time (<20%) causes CPU to scale-up from current frequency. Frequency scale-down happens at steps=5% of max frequency. (This parameter is tunable only in conservative, among the popular governors)
To sum up, this is an intelligent ondemand that enters browsing mode to limit max frequency when GPU is idling, and (exits browsing mode) behaves like ondemand when GPU is busy; to deliver performance for gaming and such. Intellidemand does not jump to highest frequency when screen is off.


21: Hotplug Governor:
The Hotplug governor performs very similarly to the OnDemand governor, with the added benefit of being more precise about how it steps down through the kernel's frequency table as the governor measures the user's CPU load. However, the Hotplug governor's defining feature is its ability to turn unused CPU cores off during periods of low CPU utilization. This is known as "hotplugging."

Obviously, this governor is only available on multi-core devices.

Credits goes to:
http://icrontic.com/discussion/95140/android-cpu-governors-and-you-setcpu-system-tuner-tegrak

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1369817
 

jamieg71

Senior Member
Mar 13, 2011
3,102
7,627
Sanford, Florida
Man that's awesome you put that governor guide together, just learned a few thing! I will be linking to YOUR OP in my ReLoaded thread. Any ideas on how to make this required reading BEFORE download?? Lol
Thanks again Hip!!
-jamie

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 

sdalton37

New member
Apr 19, 2012
4
2
I tested the GPS thing this weekend in the newest build and you're right. It worked perfectly without doing the sense fix

As for A2SD, not sure. I haven't had a problem with it. Are you flashing it in the same session as when you flash the ROM?

Yeah, I was flashing in the same session as the ROM itself. For some reason it just wouldn't boot. Oh well, I actually wasn't a huge fan of the MIUI ROM anyway and I am over on DIRT's CM9 and testing that one out a bit. Thanks for your help.

PS - Your guide is the best man, thank you for putting it together. I probably wouldn't have made the leap to flashing ROMs if this guide hadn't been here.
 

xxRAMOTHxx

Senior Member
Sep 14, 2010
590
216
Hilliard, Ohio
Yeah, I was flashing in the same session as the ROM itself. For some reason it just wouldn't boot. Oh well, I actually wasn't a huge fan of the MIUI ROM anyway and I am over on DIRT's CM9 and testing that one out a bit. Thanks for your help.

PS - Your guide is the best man, thank you for putting it together. I probably wouldn't have made the leap to flashing ROMs if this guide hadn't been here.

Agreed. Great guide.

Thank you.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Want to thank oneoftherabble for this awesome guide on battery charging and calibration.

As soon as I can find his profile, I'll link it to this post.

So, you want to properly calibrate your battery huh? OK... we can show you how to do that. But I have a couple of things to say first. ( Come on... You KNEW that I would. )
You CANNOT calibrate a battery properly in an hour. Or in two hours. And you certainly CANNOT calibrate a battery properly in 30 seconds by wiping your battery stats file. It isn't going to happen. No how, no way. Flame on if you want... but I know the ACTUAL truth about it. It won't be correct.
Second.... No matter how well you calibrate your battery, after you flash a new Rom or kernel or ROM/kernel package, your calibration is no longer valid. Period. End of discussion. It ain't happening. Every ROM/kernel package is going to handle the information fed to it from the VR/Charging circuit differently.
Third.... This procedure requires that you have PATIENCE to do it right. If you don't have that patience, then don't waste your time. But.... STOP whining about how your supposed battery life is bad! What you are seeing on your battery meter is garbage and not worth looking at.
Now.... here are the steps to getting that meter and battery calibrated as a working unit... as close as we can get anyway when you figure out the actual accuracy of our meter system.

1.) You want to put your battery on the charger and let it charge. At this point, it won't matter if the phone is on or not. We just want to get it so the phone indicates a "full charge".

2.) When the LED turns GREEN then you need to POWER DOWN the phone. Let the phone sit for a couple of seconds.

3.) Unplug the phone from the charger and WAIT until the charging LED goes out. ( If you notice.. this takes about 2 to 3 seconds. That is how long it takes the phone to discharge energy to the point that the LED goes out. That is only at 3V! Now, think about how much longer it takes for it to get all the way to ZERO!?! NOW do you see why I say POWER DOWN when you FLASH?? )

4.) Plug the charger back in. It does NOT matter if it is the wall charger or USB or a car charger. The ONLY difference is going to be a little bit of speed when using the wall charger. ( More on this if you want the information )

5.) Wait until the LED turns GREEN. Now, unplug the charger. Wait for the LED to turn off.

6.) Plug the charger back in and wait until the LED turns GREEN. Unplug the charger. Wait for the LED to turn off.

7.) We are going to REPEAT 3 through 6 until it takes LESS THAN 10 seconds for the charge LED to change from orange to green.

8.) OK... it is going green really quick now. Unplug the charger and turn on your phone. THIS is where the patience part comes in. You want to run your phone WITHOUT CHARGING IT until it shuts itself off because of a low battery. Personally, I do this by turning up the screen FULL brightness, turning off the SLEEP mode, starting up MX Video Player and playing movies until I get down around 15% or so and then letting the phone discharge down until it shuts itself off.
( INFORMATION HERE!! You CANNOT "completely discharge" a Li-ion/polymer battery to "Zero" while it is in your phone. The circuits in the phone will not allow that to happen. It will shut down when the voltage gets to a point that it cannot support the phone. In our case we get down to about an actual 30% of rated battery capacity when out phones shut down. So don't worry and hurting your battery. Well, you COULD kill it. Run the phone until it shuts off and then LEAVE the phone like that for about 10 to 12 months. The internal resistance in the battery will drag it down to about Zero in that time. )

9.) Now then.... Plug in your charger and make sure that your phone is TURNED OFF. I would suggest that you pull your battery and put it back into the phone. That makes sure that the phone will be OFF when plugged in.

10.) WAIT until the LED turns GREEN. Now THAT took a LONG time didn't it??

11.) With the charger plugged in... Start your phone INTO RECOVERY! Clear ALL CACHES and THE BATTERY STATS NOW!

12.) POWER DOWN THE PHONE. I REPEAT... POWER DOWN THE PHONE Now... let your phone SIT doing NOTHING for ONE MINUTE! This step is REALLY important. Your phone CANNOT start to re-write the battery stats file properly when it reboots from Recovery. It is still LOOKING for the OLD battery stats and WILL NOT start to re-write it until it has tried and failed several times to find the old one.

13.) Start your phone up like normal with the charger UNPLUGGED. Let the phone boot and run it like you normally would until the phone shuts itself down for low battery. DO NOT RECHARGE WHILE YOU ARE DOING THIS STEP!! And, do NOT run it like a mad fool like you did to discharge it the first time. OPERATE IT LIKE YOU NORMALLY DO. ( oh yeah... please, please, please... ignore what your "meter" is telling you right now. It is really not feeling well. )

14.) When the phone dies from low battery, plug in the charger WITH THE PHONE OFF and let it FULLY CHARGE while POWERED DOWN!

15.) When the phone is fully charged... start it up!! Congratulations! You have been patient enough to actually calibrate your battery, ROM, kernel and battery "meter" to as close to accurate as they can be!!

( round of applause here ) YOU DID IT!!!

Come on... If you could read all the way through this post.... You can calibrate your battery properly!!
I sure hope that this helps. I am trying hard here to provide you folks with good, factual information on your batteries and how they act/react with your phones. I know that we all see so many stories about how someone can calibrate a battery with an app that wipes the battery stats file and makes everything good in the World. But let me tell you.... that just isn't the truth.
If you have any questions or you have any ideas on other information that you would like to see on your phone, batteries and such.... based on actual facts and research, then PLEASE drop me a PM and I'll get to work on it!

See ya'
 
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iancarnation

Member
Apr 19, 2012
5
3
Seattle
Thank You / Battery Calibration Question

Thank you so much for the great write-up! I have been rooted for a while, but found many useful tips for my recent re-organization and fresh ROM flash.

I have been going through the battery calibration process you re-printed, and am in the final "normal use" discharge step. I have made a couple booboos and was wondering how they would affect the calibration and whether I need to restart this whole process:

First thing I did was a Hot Reboot when I was playing with my ROM. I also just instinctively plugged my phone into my charger when I sat down at my desk for about 10 seconds before going "AAgh!" and unplugging it. I would assume that means I definitely need to start the process over, what do you think?

Thanks!
 

1range

Senior Member
Sep 24, 2011
288
68
Anyone, know if one can partition sd card after flashing a ROM? For instance, I'm running Deck's Reloaded? Any direction would be great....
 

xxRAMOTHxx

Senior Member
Sep 14, 2010
590
216
Hilliard, Ohio
Anyone, know if one can partition sd card after flashing a ROM? For instance, I'm running Deck's Reloaded? Any direction would be great....

SD card can be partitioned at any time with no ill affects to the Rom. Make sure you back up card to pc prior to partioning as that process will erase everything on the card.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2
 
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1range

Senior Member
Sep 24, 2011
288
68
SD card can be partitioned at any time with no ill affects to the Rom. Make sure you back up card to pc prior to partioning as that process will erase everything on the card.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 2

So, can I partition, replace sd card content from PC back-up, and then do a nand restore or do I need to reflash the ROM?

Also, would I upgrade ext 3 or continue to ext 4...

Hipkat, I believe your...let me say "Great Guide" suggests stopping at ext 3. Don't mean to be a nag...I wanna get this right...

Running on Deck's Reloaded
 
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  • 82
    The first thing I should say here, is thank you to every Dev, every tester and every member that helped me along the way, from the guys in IRC #Ubuntu that helped me set up adb on my Linux drive to the guys on #htc-evo that walked me through rooting an hour after I first took this phone out of the box to all the other members of XDA and SDX that have been so instrumental in helping me learn all of this. Especially the people that have run into issues and the people that have offered up solutions. If other people didn't make mistakes, I never would have know half of what I do.

    ULTIMATE GUIDE TO EVERYTING EVO 4G

    In the year that I’ve been on this forum, I’ve come to learn a lot more than I could have ever imagined. I’ve tried to pass that knowledge on, in various threads, and tried to help as many people as I can. I know there are a lot of guides out there, but I decided to write what I’ll call “HipKat’s Ultimate Guide To Everything Evo 4G.” For ease, I’ve added links to as many things I can at the bottom of this.

    The most important thing I can tell you is to fully read as much as you can before you attempt anything. The developers are really good at listing how to apply their mods, Flash their ROMS and listing what does and what doesn’t work.

    FROM THE BEGINNING

    So you have your Evo, freshly rooted, and you want to know where to go next. Well, here are some important things you need to do first. I’m assuming that you’ve already installed the HTC-EVO drivers via HTC Sync.

    In the rooting process, you most likely ended up with Clockwork Mod Recovery. The first thing you’ll want to do is update that to a better recovery. Clockward Mod, or CWM is not a good recovery for the Evo. More on Recoveries below.
    Download the file from the link provided below. You’ll have to rename the file so it reads PC36IMG.zip
    Be sure that you are not adding a second .zip to the file name (PC36IMG.zip.zip).

    Place the file on the root of your SD Card, meaning not in any folders, but on the card itself. Power down the phone and then reboot by holding Volume Down and Power at the same time, until the bootloader, or Hboot, comes up. After a few seconds, Hboot will scan your phone, find the PC36IMG.zip and ask you if you want to update. Select yes with the Volume Button, and when it’s finished, it will ask if you want to reboot. Select no, and then select Recovery. If it loads correctly, you can Reboot System.

    Once your phone is fully booted, go to Market. Hit Menu>My Apps and see if anything on your phone can be updated.
    As long as you’re in the Market, download some apps that you will need in certain instances, as I’ll explain later.

    Astro File Manager, Titanium Backup, MSL Reader, Terminal Emulator & GPS Status & Toolbox.

    *Note: You have an expensive device in your hands. Don’t afraid to buy some of the more important apps, and Titanium Backup is one I suggest paying for. I’ll be listing some of the more important Apps you’ll want, and some are not free. If you pay for Titanium Backup, make sure you keep the text file with the license number on your SD Card/Root

    Once you’re done there, back out to your home screen, hit Menu>Settings, scroll down to Updates and quickly update your PRL and Your Profile. I do this before every ROM that I flash.

    Open MSL Reader and get your MSL and write it down, then put it somewhere that you can always refer to it. You’ll need it for various things, like resetting your GPS Data.

    Open Titanium Backup and hit Menu>Batch> Backup All user Apps and Data. Only select the apps that you may have downloaded. Never any System, Google or HTC Apps. It’s pretty simple to tell. They’ll be the ones in White Text.
    The ONLY other apps I backup are my Alarms and my Voice Mail. You’ll need this if you use an AOSP ROM to restore your Voice Mail Data, which I’ll go into further below.

    After those have completed, and since you have a Stock ROM without the extended Reboot Options, power down. Then repeat the steps to get to the Hboot, but this time, after the scan, since the PC36IMG.zip is still on your SD Card, select no, and then go to Recovery.

    *Note: I usually keep my USB Cord connected to my Computer during any of this. You’ll see why below.

    TWRP

    The best one to use on the evo is 2.2.2.0. This is a true touch recovery unlike the ra style. It does wipe everything correctly and has a decent user interface. Lets start with the down side of 2.2.2.0 which is it takes forever to boot up, there is no option to wipe the boot partition (but that has never been an issue for me), and there is no autoreboot option. Now to the goodies. You have the option to flash upto 10 zips at once, there is a file manager program which will allows you to move, rename, copy, delete files from all directories including the root. You are able to name your backups and for people like me who flash and nand and restore on a daily basis who can forget what backups are what. Yes you can rename in ra but only after you boot back into the os. Also twrp creates a md5 for each partition. While in the backup screen you can see the size of the data in each partition. So that way you are not trying to backup useless partitions like .android or sdext when you have nothing on them. Also there is a terminal emulation option for the advanced users. While restoring or backing up it will show you how long each operation takes.

    Now 2.3+ twrp. While there are a few new options in this one it is not worth the trouble to use it. Almost all the code has been rewrote to c++ but also it is based on aosp jellybean. What that means for the end user is headache after headache. Most of your zips will not flash without being reworked. You have to change the update binary and rewrite the update script.

    Thanks to jlmancuso for that write up

    Smelkus' Amon Ra Style Recovery

    I have to give it up to Smelkus for this recovery. It's incredible, really. This makes wiping very easy. Before flashing a New ROM, wipe Caches, Factory Reset and Multi Wipe, and you're all set! It's just that easy. Plus it will work with existing Nandroids made with Amon Ra 2.3.3. This is the Recovery to use! Use the descriptions below for Amon Ra to see what everything does on Smelkus Recovery.

    Smelkus Amon Ra-Supersonic-4.3

    Welcome to Amon Ra

    Now that you’re in Recovery, you’ll see there are a lot of options. While you may use most of them during your time with the Evo, I’m going to key on just a few.

    USB-MS Toggle – This will connect your phone to your computer so you can edit/delete/modify files on your SD Card.
    Backup/Restore – This is where you’ll create and restore your Nandriods. I’ll go into further depth about Nandroids below.
    Flash Zip From SD Card – Obviously, this is where you flash your ROMs and Mods.
    Wipe – The most important thing you can do in Amon Ra, and I will detail how to properly wipe your phone below.
    Partition SD Card – With the size of the newer ROMS coming out, you will want to do this. It’s easy and will save you a ton of room on your internal memory.

    Scroll down to Backup/Restore. You’re going to create your first and most important Nandroid Backup. Click here, and then click on the Backup function. I believe that if you’re making a backup, then you want it to be an exact image of your current setup. Select everything, except Cache. No need to save temp files. Then, click on Perform Backup. You’ll see a series of Dots scroll across the screen. Since we’re assuming that you are freshly rooted on a stock setup, this shouldn’t take too long, but know that with custom ROMs that you have completely setup, it could take a while. I’ve had some take almost 15 minutes.

    Once it’s complete, click on Return, and then go to USB-MS Toggle. Click on it one time and wait for the pop up on your computer so you can see the files on your SD Card. Once it pops up, click on Open Folder To View Files so we can make some mods to your SD Card Files.

    Scroll down to Nandroids and expand the folder. You’ll see a folder named something like HT121HL07014. Expand that folder and inside is your Nandroid Backup that you just made of your Stock/Rooted Setup. The reason I said this is your most important Nandroid is because it gives you a base to return to.

    1). In case you ever have problems, this will give you a base to return to.
    2). You’ll need a Sense ROM to Nandroid back to so you can update your Profile & PRL. Something you cannot do with AOSP ROMs or on the updated 3.5 ROMS.
    3). If you ever need to take your phone into Sprint, and you don’t want them to see that you’re rooted, you can flash back to this Nandroid first, so all the techs will see is a Stock phone. There is no need to ever unroot, ever.

    Make sure you make a Nandroid of your current setup before you restore a Nandroid.

    The name of the folder that contains the images made in your Nandroid will be named something like BDEARS-20110319-0037. The numbers refer to the date and time that you made the Nandroid. In this example of my Stock/Rooted ROM, I can see I made this on March 19, 2011 and 12:37AM. To avoid confusion, you CAN rename this, however, you must preserve the original name and there can be no spaces in the name. I renamed mine to BDEARS-20110319-0037-stock. Now, I know which Nandroid is my Stock/Rooted setup.

    I also do a separate Nandroid of just the Wimax and store it on my computer, in case I ever lose my RSA Keys.

    On your SD Card, you may find it easier to store everything you use to modify your phone in custom Folders. On mine, I created a folder called XDA. Inside that folder, I created sub folders named Apps, Drivers, Icons, Kernels, ROMS, Root, Themes & Utilities, so I can organize everything I may use to flash, modify and update my phone. You should rename the PC356IMG.zip file on the root of your SD Card by adding Amon Ra to the end of the name (PC36IMG-Amon-Ra.zip), and moving it into the XDA\Root folder, so you’ll always have it on your SD card.

    This would be a good time to download the custom ROM you want to use along with Dark Tremors Apps to SD Card (DT A2SD) and put them in the folders you created. I keep DT A2SD in the Utilities Folder. I would also suggest you download the V6 Supercharger Script and ViperMOD for AOSP Kernels (Also kept in Utilities). I would also search for the RUU for your particular phone, in case you ever need to do a complete reset back to “Out-Of-The-Box”. There are 2 types; PC36IMG.zip that you run in the bootloader (which I prefer) or an .exe that you run on your computer.

    Partition Your SD Card

    I think this is the first, most important thing you can do after backing up your original setup and before moving on to custom ROMs. And it’s very simple.

    Create a folder on your Computer Desktop and Call it Evo Backup or something similar. Copy everything on your SD Card into this folder. When you partition, it will erase everything on your SD Card, so you must back it all up.
    When it’s finished, click on USB-MS Toggle to disconnect from your computer. Scroll down to Partition SD Card and click on it.
    Since the Evo doesn’t currently support SWAP, you can use 0 for the Swap Partition. If you have an 8 Gig or larger SD Card, you can use 2048 for the EXT Partition, although 1024 should be fine. The EXT Partition is where all of your Apps will be stored on your SD Card. If you’re going to move your Dalvik-Cache to the SD Card, you may want to use 2048.

    While this is going on you may want to look for a ROM that the Dev has said contains Titanium Backup, or if you ADB and you know what you’re doing, you can pull the app prior to all of this, and add it to the XDA\Apps folder, if you created one, in your backup. The actual name of the app is com.keramidas.TitaniumBackup

    Once the process is complete, select Upgrade EXT 2 to EXT 3. Do not use EXT 4 On Sense ROMS. DEFINITELY use EXT4 on newer AOSP ROMS. Your SD Card is now partitioned and you’re ready to restore your backup and flash your custom ROM so back out, go to USB-MS Toggle, select it and copy everything from the EVO Backup folder on your computer, back to your SD Card.

    Flashing A Custom ROM

    The first things you need to know are the little variations between Sense ROMS and AOSP ROMS.

    Sense is the bundled software package that HTC provides on your phone out of the box. AOSP Stands for Android Open Source Project and there are plenty of differences. For starters. Some things you need to do in Sense, you cannot do in AOSP, like updating Profile and PRL, as I said above. Also, some AOSP ROMS have problems with GPS and while there are drivers you can flash to fix that, they may not always work, so you’ll have to go back to your Sense Nandroid and use what’s commonly called the Sense GPSCLRX Fix. I’ll explain that process in a bit.

    AOSP will provide a cleaner ROM with a lot of options and mods built into it. While it may be plainer looking, there are a lot of theming capabilities that you can use to change the way it looks. Custom Kernels for AOSP can have SBC capabilities, which enhances the charging method for your battery and usually AOSP ROMS get better battery life than Sense ROMS do, because of the kernel options and the lack of “bloat” that you’ll find in a Sense ROM.

    Sense ROMS are sleek with a lot of “Eye Candy” and really cool widgets. The ROMS themselves may be heavily themed and the 3rd party themes are usually gorgeous. A Good Sense ROM will not normally have anything that doesn’t work, ie. GPS, 4G, etc.

    I prefer MIUI, an AOSP ROM with excellent stability, very few bugs and outstanding built in Theming options. It also comes with its own backup manager, which works well for saving everything, including desktop layout and current theme, and a Downloader that will download the weekly Releases automatically.
    But, if you’re like many of us, you’ll end up trying everything on the menu until you find something that works for you.

    Many ROMS come with the Stock HTC Kernel in them, so may want to research custom kernels and download a few, add them to your SD Card and try each out until you find something that works for you.

    *Note: make sure that you only use AOSP Kernels with AOSP ROMS and Sense Kernels with Sense ROMS. Also, and I have seen this happen, make sure you are using a Custom ROM that’s built for the EVO 4G.

    If you are flashing an AOSP Rom, like MIUI, you may want to clear your GPS Data first. If you’re using MIUI, I highly recommend it.

    Sense GPS Fix For AOSP ROMs
    You must be in a Sense ROM for this
    Open Maps; get a lock on your position.
    Open GPS Status & Tool Box, get a lock on your Sats and then hit Menu>Tools>Manage A-GPS State>Reset.
    Open Dialer and dial ##GPSCLRX#
    In the popup that asks for your password, enter your MSL, then reboot.
    When the phone is rebooted, Open Maps, get a lock; Open GPS Status, hit Menu>Tools>Manage A-GPS State>Download. Once you are locked onto your Sats, power down, the Reboot to Recovery.

    You CAN mod your ROM before you flash it. I keep all my ringtones, notification sounds and alarms on my SD Card.
    Before I put the ROM on my SD Card, I make a copy of it, I open it with WinRAR, go to System>Media>Audio Folder and I delete all the sounds in the Alarms, Notifications and Ringtones folders. No sense having them load into internal memory if I already have them on the SD Card, and when you setup your sounds, they will still appear in the menus. I also add Titanium Backup to the System\App folder because I know I’m going to need it soon after I get booted up.
    On the newer Sense ROMS, Voice Mail is not always included, so I have added a link to the bottom where you can download it and add it to the ROM before you flash it. See below on how to restore Data to your Voice Mail so it works.
    I use the backup from Astro File Manager to pull the Apk for Titanium Backup and add it to the ROM I’m flashing.

    In Recovery, back out until you get to the main menu, then go to Wipe and select it. While many people will argue this point, it’s my experience that process I’ll outline here is critical in successfully flashing a new ROM and cutting down on a lot of problems that people come across. It may seem like overkill, but it will not hurt to be thorough, so I can’t stress enough that you do it this way.

    *Note: Do not use ROM Manager to flash ROMS or Recovery. It can lead to problems. The only thing I ever use ROM Manager for is to fix permissions.

    Ok, in the wipe menu, the first option is Factory Reset/User Data. Select that and when it’s done, go down the list and select and wipe each option, except SD Card: and Battery Stats (Unless you are fully charged). I wipe Cache and Dalvik-Cache twice then I hit Factory Reset/User Data once again. Now the important part: Turn your phone off for about 3 minutes. This gives the phone time to discharge any voltage and clear remaining cache files.

    While you may see a lot of people use superwipe scripts, they really are not necessary when you have Amon Ra. You just did manually what those scripts do, and you can know you did it right.

    When you’re finished, back out, and go to Flash Zip from SD Card, select it, go to the folder where you have the ROM you want to flash and select it. Some ROMS take longer to flash than others, but once it’s done, go back to Flash Zip from SD Card and then go to the folder where you put DT A2SD and flash that. I know most ROMS have A2SD baked in, but this will ensure that everything works and that you have the full range of A2SD commands and Options. Once it’s finished, select Reboot System.

    Because you also flashed A2SD, your phone will reboot 2 or 3 times. This is normal. Also, since you wiped your caches, they need to be rebuilt so it will take longer for the phone to boot up. I would guess that if you notice a boot loop or the soft key lights haven’t come on in 15 minutes, then you’re stuck and you’ll have to pull the battery and repeat the process. I can say though, in the hundred+ ROMS I’ve flashed, I have never boot looped using that wipe process.

    Once the phone is booted, don’t touch it. Let it sit until the screen turns off. This gives everything a chance to settle in and start up. Turn the screen on and go through the preliminary setup process. Once your Desktop loads Reboot to recovery, if you’re going to flash GAPPS (AOSP ROMS) or a custom Kernel, or do a normal Reboot, and again, once booted, let the phone sit until the screen shuts off. Turn it on, and setup all the basics; Display, Accounts, Sound, etc.
    If you are using an AOSP ROM, you’ll need to flash the GAPPS file with VVM, which you can do when you reboot for the first time. Multiple reboots in the beginning of a new ROM help the ROM and Kernel settle in.
    Whenever you flash a zip file, other than a complete ROM, make sure to wipe Cache and Dalvik-Cache.

    Now Reboot to Recovery and make a Nandroid. This is your Basic Setup of your Custom ROM. In case you have problems due to mods you make, you can always come back to this point and start over. Don’t forget to rename it so you can tell which Nandroid it is.

    I keep 4 Nandroids on my phone; Stock/Rooted. Last known Good Setup. Current ROM Base Setup and Current ROM Complete Setup.

    Custom Kernels
    Make sure that any kernel you flash is built for your ROM. AOSP for AOSP Roms, Sense for Sense ROMs.
    A word about SBC. While there has been a lot of talk about the safety of SBC Kernels, I have yet to see anything that substantiates it. I have used the same battery since I got my phone, a year ago, using SBC Kernels and have had no problems or shortened battery life. I highly recommend using SBC when possible

    Custom CPU Governors
    Once you have a custom kernel installed, you can set the Governor to another setting other than the default.
    Here is a great guide on understanding CPU Governors.

    CPU Governors Explained

    Restoring Visual Voice Mail
    Once you’re finished, reboot to system and either download Titanium Backup or if you added it to the ROM, open Titanium Backup and restore your apps with Data. Do not restore Voice Mail. If you are on a Sense ROM, it will already be good. If you are on AOSP and you flashed the GAPPS file, go back to Restore in Titanium Backup, and restore just the Data for Voice Mail. Not the App. Data only. Reboot and then go to Voice Mail, hit Menu and compose a voice mail and send it to yourself. If you receive it, your Visual Voice Mail is working. If not, search the forums at XDA for possible fixes, but this method has always worked for me.

    At this point, you phone is basically setup and tweaked, but there are some other things you can use.
    Below is a list of Apps and Practices I use to keep my phone working smoothly. Some of these Apps are paid Apps.

    QuickPic – The very best Gallery there is. Allows you hide and password protect folders
    Wimax RSA Keys – Allows you to ensure you haven’t lost your RSA Keys.
    AdFree – Eliminates those annoying Ads on certain Apps.
    Astro File Manager – Backs up and restores all your user apps.
    Battery Monitor Widget – Shows you how your Battery is being used in detail
    Busybox Installer – Installs the version of Busy Box you’ll need.
    Kernel Manager – The Easiest Way to download Kernels. I still flash them in Recovery
    MyBackupPro – Works like Titanium Backup and a good fall back if TB ever gives you problems.
    ROM Manager – For fixing Permissions, only. The last step in my Process of flashing a new ROM.
    Startup Manager – This is like msconfig in Windows. Lets you delete certain apps from loading at Start Up
    System Tuner – Contains a lot of Tweaks, including setting the Governor for your Kernel
    ROM Toolbox - AWESOME program that does everything from settings to Fonts to advanced settings and tweaks.

    Once I have everything setup, I run Startup Manager to clean out my Start menu and then Rom Manager to fix Permissions.
    Then I reboot to Recovery and make my final Nandroid of my Complete Setup

    Battery Life

    Battery life is a major concern with the Evo. There are some things you can do to extend Battery life.
    Do not use Task Killers, as these actually work against the built in Memory Manager that comes with Android.

    1) Turn of Data, unless you need it, and rely on WiFi whenever possible.
    2) If you have your screen on a lot, turn the brightness down.
    3) Calibrate your battery. There are several methods, but this is the best.

    Want to thank oneoftherabble for this awesome guide on battery charging and calibration.

    As soon as I can find his profile, I'll link it to this post.

    You CANNOT calibrate a battery properly in an hour. Or in two hours. And you certainly CANNOT calibrate a battery properly in 30 seconds by wiping your battery stats file. It isn't going to happen. No how, no way. Flame on if you want... but I know the ACTUAL truth about it. It won't be correct.
    Second.... No matter how well you calibrate your battery, after you flash a new Rom or kernel or ROM/kernel package, your calibration is no longer valid. Period. End of discussion. It ain't happening. Every ROM/kernel package is going to handle the information fed to it from the VR/Charging circuit differently.
    Third.... This procedure requires that you have PATIENCE to do it right. If you don't have that patience, then don't waste your time. But.... STOP whining about how your supposed battery life is bad! What you are seeing on your battery meter is garbage and not worth looking at.
    Now.... here are the steps to getting that meter and battery calibrated as a working unit... as close as we can get anyway when you figure out the actual accuracy of our meter system.

    1.) You want to put your battery on the charger and let it charge. At this point, it won't matter if the phone is on or not. We just want to get it so the phone indicates a "full charge".

    2.) When the LED turns GREEN then you need to POWER DOWN the phone. Let the phone sit for a couple of seconds.

    3.) Unplug the phone from the charger and WAIT until the charging LED goes out. ( If you notice.. this takes about 2 to 3 seconds. That is how long it takes the phone to discharge energy to the point that the LED goes out. That is only at 3V! Now, think about how much longer it takes for it to get all the way to ZERO!?! NOW do you see why I say POWER DOWN when you FLASH?? )

    4.) Plug the charger back in. It does NOT matter if it is the wall charger or USB or a car charger. The ONLY difference is going to be a little bit of speed when using the wall charger. ( More on this if you want the information )

    5.) Wait until the LED turns GREEN. Now, unplug the charger. Wait for the LED to turn off.

    6.) Plug the charger back in and wait until the LED turns GREEN. Unplug the charger. Wait for the LED to turn off.

    7.) We are going to REPEAT 3 through 6 until it takes LESS THAN 10 seconds for the charge LED to change from orange to green.

    8.) OK... it is going green really quick now. Unplug the charger and turn on your phone. THIS is where the patience part comes in. You want to run your phone WITHOUT CHARGING IT until it shuts itself off because of a low battery. Personally, I do this by turning up the screen FULL brightness, turning off the SLEEP mode, starting up MX Video Player and playing movies until I get down around 15% or so and then letting the phone discharge down until it shuts itself off.
    ( INFORMATION HERE!! You CANNOT "completely discharge" a Li-ion/polymer battery to "Zero" while it is in your phone. The circuits in the phone will not allow that to happen. It will shut down when the voltage gets to a point that it cannot support the phone. In our case we get down to about an actual 30% of rated battery capacity when out phones shut down. So don't worry and hurting your battery. Well, you COULD kill it. Run the phone until it shuts off and then LEAVE the phone like that for about 10 to 12 months. The internal resistance in the battery will drag it down to about Zero in that time. )

    9.) Now then.... Plug in your charger and make sure that your phone is TURNED OFF. I would suggest that you pull your battery and put it back into the phone. That makes sure that the phone will be OFF when plugged in.

    10.) WAIT until the LED turns GREEN. Now THAT took a LONG time didn't it??

    11.) With the charger plugged in... Start your phone INTO RECOVERY! Clear ALL CACHES and THE BATTERY STATS NOW!

    12.) POWER DOWN THE PHONE. I REPEAT... POWER DOWN THE PHONE Now... let your phone SIT doing NOTHING for ONE MINUTE! This step is REALLY important. Your phone CANNOT start to re-write the battery stats file properly when it reboots from Recovery. It is still LOOKING for the OLD battery stats and WILL NOT start to re-write it until it has tried and failed several times to find the old one.

    13.) Start your phone up like normal with the charger UNPLUGGED. Let the phone boot and run it like you normally would until the phone shuts itself down for low battery. DO NOT RECHARGE WHILE YOU ARE DOING THIS STEP!! And, do NOT run it like a mad fool like you did to discharge it the first time. OPERATE IT LIKE YOU NORMALLY DO. ( oh yeah... please, please, please... ignore what your "meter" is telling you right now. It is really not feeling well. )

    14.) When the phone dies from low battery, plug in the charger WITH THE PHONE OFF and let it FULLY CHARGE while POWERED DOWN!

    15.) When the phone is fully charged... start it up!! Congratulations! You have been patient enough to actually calibrate your battery, ROM, kernel and battery "meter" to as close to accurate as they can be!!

    ( round of applause here ) YOU DID IT!!!

    If you have any questions or you have any ideas on other information that you would like to see on your phone, batteries and such.... based on actual facts and research, then PLEASE drop me (oneoftherabble) a PM and I'll get to work on it!


    GAPPS
    If you flash an AOSP ROM, you have to also flash GAPPS, which contains all the Google apps.
    You do this is in Recovery, after wiping Cache and Dalvik Cache. This file contains the most updated Visual Voice Mail and is confirmed to be working.

    GB GAPPS w-VVM 20111212
    Jellybean GAPPS
    31
    Removing Bloatware
    Now that you got this far, you probably want to get rid of the bloat that comes with the Evo.
    Pretty simple, actually. Since you got and paid for Titanium Back up, open it up, click on Menu>Batch and scroll down to the bottom.
    Under "Un-Install" click on uninstall All User & System Apps, click Deselect All, then choose the apps you want to remove.
    *Note: BE CAREFUL!
    Only delete the Apps you know are safe. And really, these are pretty obvious.

    These are definitely safe, but if you aren't sure, don't remove it.

    Code:
    amazonmp3.apk
    com.htc.MusicWidget.apk
    com.htc.MusicWidget.odex
    com.htc.NewsReaderWidget.apk
    com.htc.NewsReaderWidget.odex
    com.htc.StockWidget.apk
    com.htc.StockWidget.odex
    com.htc.TwitterWidget.apk
    com.htc.TwitterWidget.odex
    Flickr.apk
    Flickr.odex
    htcbookmarkwidget.apk
    htcbookmarkwidget.odex
    htccontactwidgets.apk
    htccontactwidgets.odex
    HtcFootprints.apk
    HtcFootprints.odex
    HtcFootprintsWidget.apk
    HtcFootprintsWidget.odex
    HtcMusic.apk
    HtcMusic.odex
    HtcNaviPanel.apk
    HtcNaviPanel.odex
    HtcPhotoWidget.apk
    HtcPhotoWidget.odex
    HtcRingtoneTrimmer.apk
    HtcRingtoneTrimmer.odex
    htcsearchwidgets.apk
    htcsearchwidgets.odex
    HtcSoundRecorder.apk
    HtcSoundRecorder.odex
    HtcTwitter.apk
    HtcTwitter.odex
    MagicSmokeWallpapers.apk
    MagicSmokeWallpapers.ode
    Mode10Wallpapers.apk
    Mode10Wallpapers.odex
    Sprint_App_Updater.apk
    Sprint_NASCAR.apk
    Sprint_Navigation.apk
    Sprint_NFL.apk
    Sprint_Promotion.apk
    Sprint_Qik.apk
    Sprint_TV.apk
    Sprint_VVM.apk
    SprintTVWidget.apk
    Stock.apk
    Stock.odex
    VisualizationWallpapers.
    VisualizationWallpapers.
    WidgetDownloadManager.apk
    WidgetDownloadManager.odex

    You can also use ADB. If you use ADB, here's the commands

    Code:
    adb shell
    mount /dev/block/mtdblock4 /system
    cd /system/app
    rm amazonmp3.apk
    rm com.htc.MusicWidget.apk
    rm com.htc.MusicWidget.odex
    rm com.htc.NewsReaderWidget.apk
    rm com.htc.NewsReaderWidget.odex
    rm com.htc.StockWidget.apk
    rm com.htc.StockWidget.odex
    rm com.htc.TwitterWidget.apk
    rm com.htc.TwitterWidget.odex
    rm Flickr.apk
    rm Flickr.odex
    rm htcbookmarkwidget.apk
    rm htcbookmarkwidget.odex
    rm htccontactwidgets.apk
    rm htccontactwidgets.odex
    rm HtcFootprints.apk
    rm HtcFootprints.odex
    rm HtcFootprintsWidget.apk
    rm HtcFootprintsWidget.odex
    rm HtcMusic.apk
    rm HtcMusic.odex
    rm HtcNaviPanel.apk
    rm HtcNaviPanel.odex
    rm HtcPhotoWidget.apk
    rm HtcPhotoWidget.odex
    rm HtcRingtoneTrimmer.apk
    rm HtcRingtoneTrimmer.odex
    rm HtcSoundRecorder.apk
    rm HtcSoundRecorder.odex
    rm HtcTwitter.apk
    rm HtcTwitter.odex
    rm MagicSmokeWallpapers.apk
    rm MagicSmokeWallpapers.ode
    rm Sprint_App_Updater.apk
    rm Sprint_NASCAR.apk
    rm Sprint_Navigation.apk
    rm Sprint_NFL.apk
    rm Sprint_Promotion.apk
    rm Sprint_Qik.apk
    rm Sprint_TV.apk
    rm Sprint_VVM.apk
    rm SprintTVWidget.apk
    rm Stock.apk
    rm Stock.odex
    rm VisualizationWallpapers.apk
    rm VisualizationWallpapers.odex

    V6SUPER CHARGER & CAR-O-DOPE TWEAKS
    People have said V6 is better for Sense ROMs and Car-O-Dope for AOSP ROMs.

    Car-O-Dope

    Note: The Menus in ROM Toolbox have changed so look carefully before you start applying these settings. They are all there, just in different orders
    This is a really easy tweak in that you don't have to flash anything or run any scripts.
    You'll need to download ROM Toolbox and System Tuner.

    In ROM Toolbox, click on Performance and then on Memory Manager
    Use these Settings:
    Foreground Application: 6Mb
    Visible Application: 12Mb
    Secondary Server: 55Mb
    Hidden Application: 70Mb
    Content Provider: 85Mb
    Empty Application: 100Mb
    Click Apply On Boot

    Go back, and hit Kernel Tweaks/Sysctl Tweaks, then use these settings:
    Min Free Kbytes: 4096
    Dirty Ratio: 70
    Dirty Background Ratio: 50
    VFS Cache Pressure: 10
    Make sure Apply On Boot is checked.

    Then, open System Tuner
    Click Tweaks, the SD Card
    Set Cache to 4096 and IO Scheduler to deadline
    Click Boot Settings, select Re-apply SD tweak and select init.d script.
    Reboot

    V6 Super Charger/3G Turbo Charger
    Download Busybox Installer from the Market, open it and install Busy Box1.18.2. This is the recommended version for V6 SuperCharger.

    Download the V6 Supercharger from the link below and unzip it on your SD card. I have the files on the root of mine. I have all three files in one zip, when you go to that link. V6 Supercharger. 3G TurboCharger and the kickass Kernalizer. The link to XDA is the original thread posted by zeppelinrox, which will explain everything you need to know.

    On your SD card, remove the .txt extension from all 3 files.

    From the Market, download Script Manager. Open it and browse to the SD Card, then click on V6_SuperCharger_for_Android-update9_beta_6.3.sh Click on Help then check Run As Root and OK. Then click on Run

    The first choice you make is how fast the text scrolls. Use 0, and then enter. Next you’ll choose which option. I think most people use Option 9, so hit 9, and then enter. When it’s done, enter 27, to Exit. Do not Reboot yet. When it’s done, back out to the SD Card, scroll up and hit the .. twice, then click on Data.

    Scroll down to 99SuperCharger.sh and click on it. Click on Help and highlight Run as Root and Run at Root, OK, and then RUN. When it’s done, back out and browse back to the SD Card. Click on KickAssKernalizer_Tweaks_Installer, Click on Help, then Run as Root. OK and Run. I select No when it asks about the I/O Tweaks, although I’m not sure if that’s the best choice or not. But seeing anything that says it can cause boot loops makes me want to avoid it. Once it’s finished, back out again, go back to Data, then click on 99KickAssKernel, and use the same settings as before.

    Go back to the SD Card, Click on 3G Turbocharger_Installer and chose fastest.

    Back out, and Reboot.

    **Note:
    Read the threads for Supercharger for updated files. I have gotten away from V6 Supercharger, and use CoD Tweaks, exclusively, however, I do still use 3G, which has been updated. I have the best success with Experimental 1 setting

    ViperMod For AOSP Kernels
    This is a very simple to use Mod for AOSP Kernels.
    Download the file, and flash it in Recovery, then reboot.

    Once Booted, go to Terminal Manager and type:
    SU
    Vipermod

    Once the script runs, I chose 2, to lower voltages and then chose 3, to lower by 75mv
    You can play with the settings to see what works best for you

    A2SD

    From the Market, download ASDGUI. Open it and select Zipalign. Close the app and Open Terminal Emulator.
    Type:
    SU
    A2SD check.

    Once it’s done, Type:
    SU
    A2SD CacheSD

    This will move the Dalvik-Cache to the EXT 3 Partition on your SD Card, opening up a LOT of room on your internal memory. Mine was over 200MB.
    Once it’s finished, the phone will reboot and because of the new Dalvik-Cache, it will take longer to boot up.

    Newest DT A2SD

    Updating Radios

    Radio Updates are released on occasion and having the newest radios is never a bad idea. Some people use different combinations to help improve battery life, reception, etc. you can read the thread below for possible radio combos.

    When you update your radios, you should know that it is possible to brick your phone, if not done correctly. Some radios are in PC36IMG.zip form and this is what I prefer, but most in the thread listed are zip files that you flash in recovery.
    Follow these steps exactly.

    *Note: Make sure your battery has a good charge. I’d say over 50% is safe. Losing power during a radio flash will turn your Evo into a paper weight.

    Boot to Recovery and go to the folder where you have stored your zip file for updating radios.
    Flash the zip file as you would any other. The phone will extract the files, then reboot to a black screen with a green arrow. This could sit here for a few minutes. Do not worry if it seems to take a while.
    Then the phone will reboot to recovery and say it’s clearing cache.
    When the Recovery Menu pops up, you can reboot.

    Newest Radios

    Team Revolution MIUI Install Guide

    Step 1. This is a MIUI ROM, which means GPS could be an issue, so the first thing I do is make a nandroid of my current Setup, then I restore my stock/rooted ROM.

    Step 2. I update Profle and PRL, then I do the Sense GPS Fix.

    You must be in a Sense ROM for this
    Open Maps; get a lock on your position.
    Open GPS Status & Tool Box, get a lock on your Sats and then hit Menu>Tools>Manage A-GPS State>Reset.
    Open Dialer and dial ##GPSCLRX#
    In the popup that asks for your password, enter your MSL, (You'll need MSL Reader from the market) then reboot.
    When the phone is rebooted, Open Maps, get a lock; Open GPS Status, hit Menu>Tools>Manage A-GPS State>Download. Once you are locked onto your Sats, power down, then Reboot to Recovery.

    Of course, I only use Amon Ra and in Recovery, I wipe everything, completely; Factory Reset., then each option underneat that, except SD Card:
    Then I run Factory Reset again, then Cache and Dalvik Cache and Data again, jsut to make sure it's all clear.

    Go to Flash, and Flash the Rom. Once it's done, go right back to flash and flash DT A2SD, the nI boot to System and once booted, I let it sit for a good 10 minutes, so everythign get's booted up and settled in.

    At this point, I open LBE manager (Superuser) and set all my permissions to on and accept all.
    I open Maps, get a lock, open GPS Status, and I already know I'll get a lock on my sats. Then I hit menu and update GPS Data.
    Next is Connectbot, and I move my Dalvik Cache to my SD Card. Here's the commands

    su
    a2sd check
    a2sd cachesd

    The phone will reboot and again, I just let it sit for about 10 minutes.
    Once I wake it up, I set my preferences, display, sounds, accounts, etc. MIUI ICS hasd a TON of new settings and one is the Status Bar Options. Hit Customize Statas Bar Notification and make sure Hide Notification is turned off. This will allow notifications to show up.

    Once I'm done, I reboot to recovery, wipe Cache and Dalvik and Flash my Kernel.
    The BEST kernel to use right now is Mason v0.14 SBC No FSO. I also Flash Vipermod.
    That's it. If you use a different kernel and you have problems, this is the first place to look.

    Upon reboot, I let the phone settle, then I open Titanium backup and restore my apps/Data. Now, I have had a lot of problems in the past with TB Freezing up when U try to restore all 117 apps I have in one session, so I do it in 3 now. I alphabetize the apps and then go A-H, I-P, Q-Z

    Once finished, I open Rom Toolbox and go to Autostart Manager and make sure all the apps I DON'T need to be runnign at boot are toggled off. Then I set Car O Dope Tweaks. I'm one of the believers that Car O Dope is for AOSP, V6 is for Sense. I have yet to give Smurfs tweaks a run, but I plan to, soon.

    I reboot and run Vipermod -50 in Connectbot, and then setup my desktop folders, etc. Then I g othrough any apps I need to set preferences for, Make sure VVM is working and that is basically it. Took some extra time, but I shake my head at the problems people are having that are almost alwasy attributed to shortcutting the process.

    Almost all of the links and files anyone needs are on the guide in my signature

    Visual Voice Mail for ICS

    Follow this link. I'm on the MIUI ICS by Swiper and this worked perfectly!!!

    http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1547780

    1. Download attached Sprint VVM apk, Install like any other downloaded APK
    2. Using Root explorer, go to 'data/app' folder and find the newly installed sprint vvm
    3. Select the VVM app and MOVE it to your 'system/app' folder. (permissions should already match because it was installed, but make sure it matches all other apps in system/app folder) 4. Boot into Recovery, Clear 'Cache'/ 'Dalvik Cache', then 'FIX PERMISSIONS', next 'Reboot system'
    5. Once booted up, open the Sprint VVM app and click on compose.
    The recipient will be 'activate@vvm.sprint.com'
    Record about 15-20 secs just incase, then send the message.
    You should receive a notification saying that your phone is provisioned.
    6. Tap to compose another message and this time send one to yourself, wait about 5 mins and and you should receive a new vvmail notification.

    The best part is, I never got to step 5. It provisioned on boot-up and I got notified of 3 Voice Mails I KNEW I had in there waiting for me.

    I've included the app at attached to the OP

    Bugs & Fixes.

    • USB Connect - The two ways to fix this are with the app, USB Mass Storage in the market or the FTP Function is File Explorer.
    • Camera only takes 3MP pics - D/L Camera ICS from the market and you'll get up to 8MP with Video Recording
    • Theme Manager - There are very few themes for MIUI ICS. I understand that a new Theme Manager should be coming soon, according to the rumors.
    • Music Player/Theme Sounds not seeing music folder - D/L Rescan Media form the market. Problem solved.
    • Slow 3G/Data Speeds and Market Downloads. For me, after about a day, this fixed itself

    Known Issues
    No WIMAX
    No HWA, yet
    No Front Facing Camera

    Useful Links

    Amon Ra
    TWRP Recovery
    Smelkus Amon Ra-Supersonic-4.3
    Dark Tremors A2SD
    Newest DT A2SD
    V6 Supercharger Original Thread
    V6 Supercharger Newest releases
    ViperMOD For AOSP Kernels
    Download ViperMod
    Partition SD Card
    Download V6 SuperCharger/3G TurboCharger
    Update Radios
    GB GAPPS w-VVM 20110828
    JB GAPPS
    Car-O-Dope
    Setup MIUI ICS For Optimal Performance
    Newest Radios
    2
    I don't use it for a lot of things, but one thing I LOVE about it is that you can disable a lot of programs from starting at Boot. I used to use Start Up Manager, but that's a 3 click process to disable something, with ROM Toolbox, 1 click. Changing Fonts is always nice, and of course, setting the governor I like to use. There are a few other things I do with it, but those are the major functions I appreciate
    2
    Such a great post!! Really appreciate the time and effort into this one! :D

    Do you think it would be helpful to post about md5 sums? That's something I still have trouble with and others have recommended checking those before any installation.

    Thanks again! Rocking thread! :D

    In very overly simplified terms, an MDS is basically an ID generated by a file when its done. So if the file gives an MD5 of XZY123 and you get XYZ645, that means that your file is corrupt. You can get an MD5 checker for windows online, and I think there are a few apps that do the same thing.
    2
    I see. Good job.

    Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App