I've been playing with my problem Nook and I've gotten it a lot closer to working.
The mechanical alignment of the components is very critical.
It's all held together with double stick tape.
Especially the top end is sensitive, that has the biggest span of plastic in the IR (internal) bezel.
But I don't think that this is your problem.
Originally Posted by marcoNST
... 01 01 108 107 01 02 101 104 15 15 009 010 01 01 087 096 02 03 108 094 ...
Your problem is clearly related to the left side (LED side) at the vertex of the V.
The two LEDs on the left, above and below are getting a fine response out of the two photodiodes on the right used by the problem V.
Put on your reading glasses and look very closely at the left edge of the V for anything odd.
There could be dirt internally between the internal edge of the bezel and the LED.
The LED itself could be semi-fried.
The LED driver could be semi-fried.
Depending on how sensitive a camera (and how lousy an IR cut filter it has) you have, you might be able to see the problem that way.
In a darkened room, point the camera as low as possible towards the left edge.
With your finger on some part of the screen you might be able to see a dull red flickering.
My cell phone can see that if pointed directly at the LEDs on the disassembled unit.
There is also the trick of using a photodiode on a mic input to a PC.
Oh, a new version of Touch.apk
It doesn't show anything different, it just updates periodically without a touch.
That's helpful if you want to try pushing on the case to see if things change.