Truth be told, personally, all you need is root right now. Once you get root, rename the bloatware apps from *.apk to *.bpk and do a factory reset.
Getting root is extremely easy, there are several threads in the development section.
Important!!! As far as what apps to rename, only rename what is safe to rename. If you dont know what it is, leave it alone!! I havent seen a list anywhere of the bloatware but its pretty easy to figure it out. Renaming the apps is effectively the same as uninstalling them (after you do a factory reset) but still allows you to put them back should you want to update to the official ICS - just rename the *.bpks BACK to *.apk and remove the root (instructions are on the development boards).
The factory reset is easily done by going to settings->Privacy-Factory Data Reset. This will clear out any apps that are still loading from the pre-cached data created by Android (any apps you renamed may still continue to load due to the pre-cached data - the factory reset removes this pre-cached data and the files renamed to *.bpk will not be rebuilt). A factory reset will still retain your root access.
There are other things you can do as well such as installing CWM (which you should do before you do anything other than rooting or renaming apks), installing custom kernels, installing custom scripts, and installing new roms. But truth be told, most people would probably be happy with the bloatware removed and if that isnt enough, CWM with a different kernel and possibly some script installs. Flashing a new rom right now doesnt really bring much to the table.