[GUIDE/DISCUSSION] How to Disassemble Prime / GPS, WiFi, Light Bleed "Fixes"
!!!DO NOT APPLY A HEAT GUN TO YOUR PRIME!!!
Original credit to Erusman and his bravery to be the first among many to disassemble his Prime in search for the answers we all want. Click his name, keep up with OP, and give THANKS!
Additional credit to jdudb, wgr73, Doktaphex, jupppo, Wordlywisewiz, aznmode, and all other commentators and contributors.
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL/DISCUSSION PURPOSES ONLY! MYSELF AND ALL CONTRIBUTORS TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DEVICES HARMED WHILE TRYING TO RECREATE THE FOLLOWING SCENARIOS/MODIFICATIONS
I DID NOT PERFORM NOR OTHERWISE CONTRIBUTE TO ANY OF THIS WORK - PLEASE GIVE THANKS WHERE IT'S DUE
I think the correct way of opening is from the bottom first. Unlatch the 2 bottom latch first then work your way up from the side.
The catches are operated through the dock slots and are there for all to see.
Video courtesy of aznmode.
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Videos courtesy of Doktaphex.
The following videos are "reverse," Doktaphex's laptop automatically recorded as mirror.
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LIGHT BLEED "FIX" - THIS MAY OR MAY NOT ALLEVIATE YOUR LIGHT BLEED ISSUES
To reiterate, THIS MAY OR MAY NOT ALLEVIATE YOUR LIGHT BLEED ISSUES
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WHAT TO DO IF YOUR SCREEN BECOMES UNRESPONSIVE OR DISPLAYS STATIC
HOW TO DISASSEMBLE THE ASUS TRANSFORMER PRIME
!!!DO NOT APPLY A HEAT GUN TO YOUR PRIME!!!
Erusman said:
Original credit to Erusman and his bravery to be the first among many to disassemble his Prime in search for the answers we all want. Click his name, keep up with OP, and give THANKS!
Additional credit to jdudb, wgr73, Doktaphex, jupppo, Wordlywisewiz, aznmode, and all other commentators and contributors.
THIS IS FOR EDUCATIONAL/DISCUSSION PURPOSES ONLY! MYSELF AND ALL CONTRIBUTORS TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DEVICES HARMED WHILE TRYING TO RECREATE THE FOLLOWING SCENARIOS/MODIFICATIONS
I DID NOT PERFORM NOR OTHERWISE CONTRIBUTE TO ANY OF THIS WORK - PLEASE GIVE THANKS WHERE IT'S DUE
I think the correct way of opening is from the bottom first. Unlatch the 2 bottom latch first then work your way up from the side.
The catches are operated through the dock slots and are there for all to see.
Video courtesy of aznmode.
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aznmode said:I think the correct way of opening is from the bottom first. Unlatch the 2 bottom latch first then work your way up from the side. If you look at the top tabs they are longer than the sides to secure the top better. Making it difficult to snap on if you close from the bottom first. When I closed it up I started from the top by sliding into the tabs rather than snapping it in. Snapped the side and then locked the latches on the bottom.
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So initially prior to me posting this I had a hard time snapping the top because I followed the original video how to open and just reversed the procedure to close it. Turned out when I eventually shut the top last some of the tabs broke. So again follow my post to do the top first when closing it back up then sides lastly the bottom latches. I notices the tabs were longer so that's when I posted but only looked at the center ones. I reopened since and was following my own precedure to close it. that's when I notice the outer ones broke from when i closed it the orginal way before.
jdudb said:The catches are operated through the dock slots and are there for all to see.
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I think you will find that those pins do hold the bottom of the prime together and as for the tool, any small thin rod would work such as a tiny screwdriver.
Doktaphex said:First of all I used a tiny torx screwdriver to release the internal catches at the bottom of the Prime. Look in the docking ports on the left and right, there are two small holes. They move with a satisfying click and this IS what holds the base of the Prime together.
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After just releasing one, I see the arrow. It is pointing in the locking direction.
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There's a tiny amount of adhesive tape just by the 40-pin connector but there is no more than what is at each corner of the device also. Just be gentle and you can ease it apart.
Erusman said:Made myself some plastic tools for the job.
It opened up so easy!!!!
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I didn't really think it was going to be
that easy to open up. Trick is starting from the top and using nothing but
plastic tools. (Wedge method of pry and move further down).
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What you want to do is position first plastic tool center top of prime. Jam it
right in the seam, between black bezel and aluminum frame. Push it down
in there hard. This will give you enough room
to insert other plastic tool in and lift the bezel up. Then its just a matter of
working down the left and right top. When you get to a corner just pry up
very slow... wedge it. Foam tape will slowly give in.
Videos courtesy of Doktaphex.
The following videos are "reverse," Doktaphex's laptop automatically recorded as mirror.
jupppo said:I tried it by myself and the prime is really easily opend and can be closed without any scratch! First I used my fingernail to widen it a bit then I used a sharpend plastic handle from a scalpell to open it.
I put a cable on the pogo pin and... bang. I had GPS signals! I never had any before.
It also explains why pushing on the left side helps the signal: While you push left you lift the board on the right side slghly up, that the pogo has better connection.
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LIGHT BLEED "FIX" - THIS MAY OR MAY NOT ALLEVIATE YOUR LIGHT BLEED ISSUES
Erusman said:While I was in there I took and tightened the screws for the display.
Guess what the small amount of lightbleed I had in the lower left hand corner
is 90% gone.
wgr73 said:As far as light bleed goes
Guys when you remove the back shell, you have total access to the screen! The bleeding is caused by the screen being stressed/too tight, flexing, ect. It can mostly be adjusted out almost 100% I noticed that mine is virtually gone now too. I'll play with the LCD panel some more as well.
To reiterate, THIS MAY OR MAY NOT ALLEVIATE YOUR LIGHT BLEED ISSUES
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WHAT TO DO IF YOUR SCREEN BECOMES UNRESPONSIVE OR DISPLAYS STATIC
Erusman said:The ribbon cable came out partial. That is when the lines appeared.
Be sure to turn off your prime. See OP and picture of the dip switch that turns the power off to mobo. Take the ribbon cable completely out. Take a small eraser from a pencil and VERY carefully go over the connetions on the ribbon cable. This will basically clean them up a little. (same process you do on PCI card copper etching to clean up the connection). Find yourself a very sharp point. I have a some soldering picks that I used. Place the ribbon cable in the connection level. DO not use your fingers to jam the ribbon in. On the side of the ribbon cable is small little notches. These notches are for the tools that the factory uses to place the cables in. Use your sharp pick and puch down on either side with notches. You will see a fine white line. And you may hear even a slight snap when it goes in. But that white line should be flush with the connection on LCD. I hope you get it working again. Let me know. PM me if you have any more problems.
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