GravityBox (even though its not touchwiz base, and dev doesn't officially support it, for what I need it rocks).
AppSettings(dpi per app but also will force status bar to be shown or keep screen alive, crazy cool stuff)
Wanam Exposed: This is your base touchwiz mod set
XQuickSettingsToggles (better toggle theme/control)
Favorite thing I've done with this since we dont have uber custom roms is something so simple, but...
When I unlock my phone (4 digit pin) I have it set so it will auto select 'ok'. Just one click savings gets me all tingly inside!
7 toggles across top
Status bar colors/icons
Hiding things like keyboard selection and wifi notifications
Expanded Sound Panel
Holding 'back' key long kills foreground app
Hide/Custom Carrier label
Just to name a few!