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Easy fix for stock charging cable

OP deadbot1

13th April 2012, 07:10 AM   |  #21  
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Can anyone take a picture of wires attached (soldered) to the little circuit board? My wires have broken off and I need to resolder them, but I don't know where the colors go (except for black which is the ground). Email me a color picture at www.ebestbuyer.com@gmail.com
14th April 2012, 08:10 PM   |  #22  
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Lightbulb Circuit board
Can anyone generate a schematic of what's on the little circuit board?

We might be able to construct a circuit so as to use a standard USB cable.
14th April 2012, 10:25 PM   |  #23  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobstro

I've purchased some Sugru and plan to try reinforcing my NC charge cables. I tested it on another connector, and it provides a strong yet flexible shroud. It might be a good middle ground. I'll be able to test this weekend.

This **** ^, I use it when I'm doing wiring on my car, I like it more than liquid electrical tape.
26th April 2012, 08:26 PM   |  #24  
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I just had my first replacement cable bend pretty severely, but it is currently still working. I may give the epoxy method a try on this cable to keep it from breaking completely. So, I may have luck getting another replacement cable? I thought this replacement was the only one I could get. My first one stopped working on the second day I had it, and it didn't even get bent that I could tell.
4th May 2012, 07:20 PM   |  #25  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbqncigars

A 'normal' microUSB cable will charge at a low rate compared to the stock NC cable and suitable power supply.

I find my LG charger to work very well... charges my NC while I sleep. I always wake up with a full battery and listen to music all day. Rinse and repeat process, though most of the time I only need to charge every 2-3 days.
17th May 2012, 04:48 AM   |  #26  
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Circuit board pics/schematics
Do you guys still want or need a picture and schematic? I have a picture of the circuit board, taken through a low power microscope. The picture I have is without the connector end of the plug, since it was broken off, but I have determined which pins go where on the plug. I have been working on putting the schematic together on some free software, but the software is somewhat limited, so it's giving me some problems. I'll have it soon though, it's not a complicated circuit by any means. Lol
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18th May 2012, 07:04 PM   |  #27  
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Here is my picture of circuit board. The contact side of the pins that fit the NC connector would be facing downward on the right. Sorry if it's not quite as clear as it should be. It was difficult to line the camera up exactly by hand. Also, some of the plastic has been cut away near where the pins have broken in order to get a better contact with my multimeter to follow the traces on the board. My schematic is almost finished, and will follow soon.

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19th May 2012, 03:20 AM   |  #28  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VoidWarranty

Here is my picture of circuit board. The contact side of the pins that fit the NC connector would be facing downward on the right. Sorry if it's not quite as clear as it should be. It was difficult to line the camera up exactly by hand. Also, some of the plastic has been cut away near where the pins have broken in order to get a better contact with my multimeter to follow the traces on the board. My schematic is almost finished, and will follow soon.

Awesome, I applaud your work, sir.
20th May 2012, 02:51 AM   |  #29  
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After viewing the photo, I think the availability of those SM devices would be limited. The solution is probably a charger from another device. The voltage regulator/current limiter wouldn't be there. It probably acts like a trickle charger, varying the charge time.

The ultimate solution is Nook redesigning the whole thing!
27th May 2012, 12:47 AM   |  #30  
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Chuckb38, I agree with your statement. Nevertheless, here is the schematic I was working on. I laid the components out as they appear on the board.
A couple things to note, the app I used to create it did not have LED symbols or mosfet transistor symbols, so I used what was available.
The two diodes labeled D1 are actually one dual color LED with three contact points.
The transistor Q1 is a Unisonic Technologies UK3018 N-Channel Mosfet. The dataset can be found on Unisonic's Web Site at unisonic.com.tw


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