I used Go with my Droid X and Liberty and loved it. Since this is my first HTC I've been giving sense a try, but the thing that drives me nuts is the home screen only sits vertical, where as Go works either or.
I never did theme mine, the craziest i got was enabling some of the cool page transition graphics. I'm starting to lean toward Go again, esp if i can get the sense clock/weather 4x1 widget. I have to say i love that thing a lot.