Turning off touchwiz

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I am mostly happy with the galaxy s its a great phone, speedy and most of all really nice screen.

There are some aspects of the samsung customised android im not entirely sure about. I would like to try out differents UIs like the default one and maybe htc sense.

My thoughts with touchwiz is cant we disable a service from starting up at boot in android, or edit the default runlevel so the touchwiz ui does not load. I presume somewhere on the rom resides the default android ui. I presume its in some init script or something somewhere, im not hugely bothered about rooting my phone and from what ive read it sounds quite dodgy and im not really happy with the hit and miss procedure that is available at the moment.

Ive tried using top but cant find thetouchwiz process presumably its running on top of the android X server equivalent, i have very little knowledge of android but am pretty comfortable with linux if someone can provide some pointers...

I have built my own custom gentoo environment before so was wondering if someone can point me to a good android rom cooking post. My development environment is windows if that matters...