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Joying Intel Sofia - All you need to know - micro tutorials - Q&A

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By edit, Senior Member on 2nd June 2017, 07:29 PM
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13th June 2018, 06:24 PM |#571  
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Originally Posted by Redbullssg

I used an heatsink and fan from an AMD Athlon processor. It fit perfectly on the pad, and has many thin blade fins for better cooling. I don't have the dimensions at hand. I will try to get them for you after work.

The contact pad on the bottom of the heat sink is the same size as the OEM heat sink on the HU, but the fin area extends over about 0.5"....

Dropped my Temps down tremendously.... Have my clock speeds locked at 1200Attachment 4525832

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You did only this? Heatsink with fan? No other cooling? I am a bit afraid that the whole box heats dramatically and can cause problems to neighbour electronics (MITO-02 mitsubishi canbus adapter is my biggest concern as it hates heat and can even fire up...) I was thinking on doing fan on top of the metal housing + adding some pipe to exhaust this super hot air outside of the cabin. Unfortunately dashboard is all plastic around and it isolates quite well what is inside. What do you think?
 
 
13th June 2018, 07:05 PM |#572  
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Originally Posted by juniorkm7

You did only this? Heatsink with fan? No other cooling? I am a bit afraid that the whole box heats dramatically and can cause problems to neighbour electronics (MITO-02 mitsubishi canbus adapter is my biggest concern as it hates heat and can even fire up...) I was thinking on doing fan on top of the metal housing + adding some pipe to exhaust this super hot air outside of the cabin. Unfortunately dashboard is all plastic around and it isolates quite well what is inside. What do you think?

No, I should have been more detailed, my apologies.

I used thermal Paiste for one.. Lol... I cut a hole directly above the fan center, the same diameter as the fan blades. I then used weather stripping and stuck it to the inside of the top to seal from the top to the fan. It draws straight from the top, and exits onto the heatsink and then out any holes in the box, but mostly out the back of the display cooling it as well.

I used the fan cage and attached it to the top, but later removed that because it hit a bracket inside my dash about 3mm from going all the way in to the mount holes... I plan on doing something different there...

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13th June 2018, 07:40 PM |#573  
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Originally Posted by Redbullssg

No, I should have been more detailed, my apologies.

I used thermal Paiste for one.. Lol... I cut a hole directly above the fan center, the same diameter as the fan blades. I then used weather stripping and stuck it to the inside of the top to seal from the top to the fan. It draws straight from the top, and exits onto the heatsink and then out any holes in the box, but mostly out the back of the display cooling it as well.

I used the fan cage and attached it to the top, but later removed that because it hit a bracket inside my dash about 3mm from going all the way in to the mount holes... I plan on doing something different there...

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Sounds better but I can't imagine how it looks like - could you post some pics? I am a bit afraid that the fan can suck dust into the housing which can effect in getting the mainboard broken.
13th June 2018, 08:44 PM |#574  
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@juniorkm7, yes, I'll take better pics tonight and post.. I have to pull it out tonight anyway. I'll take the top off to get a better pic, and measure the yest sink.

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14th June 2018, 02:09 AM |#575  
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The stock heatsink plate on my 5009 is 40mm X 75mm.

The heat sink and fan height is about 65mm high from top of original heat sink to top of fan. The heat sink pad that makes contact is about 40 X 70. The dim of the heatsink is 60 X 70...

The hole in the top will be covered by filter material, and the fan is not a fast high flowing fan, so not a lot of dust will be sucked in, even if it isn't covered. It's just to get the air moving through the box. It's more like a draft. It's not the fan that was purchased with the heatsink, as that one sounded like a Piper Cub.....

I could have done a better job on the hole, but I didn't have a hole saw that size, and just wanted to get the job done, and besides, it won't be seen. Click image for larger version

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14th June 2018, 02:15 AM |#576  
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The gasket is just to direct the air from outside the box. But not really even sure that a hole or gasket was even needed. Any air flow would make a huge difference.

The last picture was with the ambient air inside the car about 24 to 26c at the time. Was running power amp, with Viper and Waze in the background. Click image for larger version

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14th June 2018, 10:13 AM |#577  
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Hmm looks good I was thinking on glueing the heatsink to the original heatsink plate but I find this ziptie solution more and more reasonable. What is your fan air direction - sucking or blowing out the air? What can you say about the temp inside the radio compartment in your car? Is it also about same as processor temp or it gets hotter? I have to take care about other electronics - CAN adapter which is only available for Mitsubishi - Metra Access MITO-02 which is really piece of junk and it will die in hot temps...
14th June 2018, 10:48 AM |#578  
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Originally Posted by juniorkm7

Hmm looks good I was thinking on glueing the heatsink to the original heatsink plate but I find this ziptie solution more and more reasonable. What is your fan air direction - sucking or blowing out the air? What can you say about the temp inside the radio compartment in your car? Is it also about same as processor temp or it gets hotter? I have to take care about other electronics - CAN adapter which is only available for Mitsubishi - Metra Access MITO-02 which is really piece of junk and it will die in hot temps...

The fan blows on to the heatsink, sucking air from the outside. The processor never gets hot to heat up any other components, and the airflow cools everything inside. I can feel a draft coming from behind the screen, and it is nothing but cool air.

If I could have found thermal glue locally, I would have gone that route first, but now that I have zip tied it in place, I realize it is much more practical and reversible. You may have to knotch some holes to zip tie your sink in. I was able to use existing holes. The zip tie goes through one side to the other and used the head of another zip tie to lock and tighten it down. Works pretty well.

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