Usb charge

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synonymous11

New member
Jan 2, 2012
2
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After following some of the above and prior advice on modifying the USB to make my Galaxy Tab Plus 7.0 charge properly, I decided to start with a USB car charger. The one in particular is specified as a 3amp device total over 2 USB ports, so if it is anything close to spec in reality, it aught to provide enough power to charge my tablet. Next, other than the resistors, failing to find any cheap parts or cables to modify at the local radio shack, I decided to try it one step better. I decided to try opening up the car charger itself and just soldering the resistors at the source. After opening, I found adequate space to do the work and simply I chose the easiest accessible port to do my soldering work. If you have any questions on pinouts and identifying which resistor goes where, you can reference the earlier posts and other sites for clarification. I also used the 33K resistor on the +5(red) and the 10K resistor on the ground(black) pins, with them center tapped on both connected data lines. The charger in particular was from Best Buy and is named RocketFish. Seems to be working so far!!
 

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aludden

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Mar 21, 2009
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I had the same problem with my tablet, a LePan II, and someone directed me to this thread. These posts helped me make my adapter cable - thanks!

In my case, no resistors are needed, but I found out that the car adapter I am using (i-xt at Walmart for $12) does put out 1.95 V on one data line and 2.56V on the other. So it may work for your Galaxy Tab with no modifications. You may want to check it out.
 

va4ik

Member
Jul 5, 2011
17
0
Hi I managed to solder the usb extension cable with the resistors as described.
It works like charm with apple usb charger.
Please take a look on the attached pictures.
 

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gildow

Member
Nov 4, 2011
41
4
Quick Question, not sure if this has been asked before, but as long as we are on the issue of charging cable, I realized that I could charge my tab using my mac...that was not possible before I've installed ICS...am I the only one? Or all these charging "issue" can be fixed by software?
 

va4ik

Member
Jul 5, 2011
17
0
It can not take more than 0.5A from a mac. In such case original ROM will display red cross over the battery icon. In both cases the charging is not optimal because it requires 2A for good charging.

Quick Question, not sure if this has been asked before, but as long as we are on the issue of charging cable, I realized that I could charge my tab using my mac...that was not possible before I've installed ICS...am I the only one? Or all these charging "issue" can be fixed by software?
 

hemligsomfan

Member
Nov 13, 2008
20
7
There is acualy one USB-port on some Macbooks that is wired to become an Superduperextrastrong chargingport when an iPad is connected. Ofcourse there is an correct name for it, but you get the point.

There is also an softwarefix for this issue, but that is sorted by rooting and installing a custom kernel that gives the user the option to force the Charge with full power feature the above mentioned adaptor does the "hard" way.

B.t.w. in progres off uppgrading an original cable by soldering the resistors direktly into the 30-pin connector. Its quite roomie in there. Pics will be posted.
 

caH_Pati

Member
Jun 21, 2011
19
4
Pati
If using humberos ICS ROM, we dont need to buy anything, because on his kernel support fast charging that allows charging from usb port directly. ;)
 

Imagardnr

New member
Jul 13, 2012
2
0
Or a $10 2000mA 4 port USB plug pack from eBay - one port modified with the 10k/33k hack for Sammy and and the other 3 for iDevices (which can be modified to be short, open, or otherwise on D+/-) - I take mine everywhere, looks just like a genuine Apple charger only with 4 ports.

I'd post a pic but I'm writing on iPad - cant seem to link a photo.
 

Imagardnr

New member
Jul 13, 2012
2
0
And the photo!

Extra effort for photo via PC....

Modified eBay 2000mA 4 port USB.
 

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eric.onim

Guest
usb port notification

sorry to hijack the thread but if you bridge the data lines (d+ & d-), will/should the device still tell you that it's charging from a usb port and not an a/c charger..?
i tried this on a galaxy ace and it works alright..
 

Dabidue

Senior Member
May 5, 2013
299
81
I also use Humberos ROM and JB 4.2.2 from Alroger on my P1000 (gsm version).

But when using fast usb charging with other than stock charger you should use some market tools which are able to obey the temperature! :eek:
 

ytj87

Senior Member
Jul 16, 2009
497
42
I'd bet the Note 2, and all Samsung devices, use the same setup as the original Galaxy S. That is, if the two data pins are shorted together, the phone kicks into fast charge mode and draws more current. Many old discussions on this.

There are two simple solutions:

1. Solder the internal data pins inside a charger. Use with any cable thereafter.
2. Use a tiny piece of aluminum foil to short the data pins inside a USB cable's male tip. Use with any charger thereafter.
 
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R-P

Member
May 21, 2010
35
3
I'd bet the Note 2, and all Samsung devices, use the same setup as the original Galaxy S. That is, if the two data pins are shorted together, the phone kicks into fast charge mode and draws more current. Many old discussions on this.

There are two simple solutions:

1. Solder the internal data pins inside a charger. Use with any cable thereafter.
2. Use a tiny piece of aluminum foil to short the data pins inside a USB cable's male tip. Use with any charger thereafter.

I think the whole discussion is that it does NOT work like this. I ended up in this thread because the Tab2 7" doesn't 'charge' from my 1A HTC charger, and with "doesn't charge" I mean that it shows a red cross or something in the battery icon.

I thought I had figured it all out after testing an iPad3 thoroughly and finding all its chargingfunctions (0.9, 1.36, 1.9 and 2.2A depending on resistorvalues of datapins)... Now I find Samsung also has a couple of tricks up its sleeve...:confused:

My wife's Galaxy S charger is 850mA and my HTC never charged with more than 850mA (according to Spooncharge, any Android version of this?) if memory serves me right even though the charger was a 1A version. So I would not be surprised if the tablet actually charges at a greater current than just 500mA. But 850mA is probably still not enough to run the screen and some apps...
 

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  • 11
    Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
    Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
    To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.

    Usb pinout:
    gnd d- d+ 5v

    To work you must short d+ and d-.
    From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
    From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
    If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
    I tested it and it's working.
    2
    I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.

    @MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
    Tie together white and green wires.
    Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
    Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.

    See att. Sry for drawing.


    You don't need that for modern devices has i told you. It did not work because you did it wrong. I have all my usb chargers working the new way, you even have wikipedia talking about it. You have to cut the data + and - on the power supply from the female usb port and short only the female d+ and d-. Trust me it works and it is alot simpler.

    Edit : from wikipedia "The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification."

    ""As of June 14, 2007, all new mobile phones applying for a license in China are required to use the USB port as a power port.[35][36] This was the first standard to use the convention of shorting D+ and D-.[37]""


    http://apple.slashdot.org/story/10/08/03/1743240/Hardware-Hackers-Reveal-Apples-Charger-Secrets

    ""We all love to call out Apple when they design deliberate incompatibility into their devices, but there is a perfectly valid technical reason for what Apple is doing here, and, in fact, they are following a USB specification (which LadyAda unfortunaterly didn't even test).

    Without data communications or when suspended, devices may legally draw no more than 2.5mA from a host, which is useless for charging. In fact, even if you're generous and pretend they're connected, devices are not allowed to draw more than 100mA without negotiating for a higher current, which requires actually talking to the host, and 100mA is still too little to charge properly. 500mA is the maximum allowed by the USB spec, but devices must negotiate it (there may be too many devices on the bus for negotiation to succeed).

    Before there was a spec for "dumb" USB chargers, Apple used the resistors as a sentinel to avoid drawing too much current from undersized chargers in order to avoid damaging the host. This is a hack, but it works, and honestly, we're smart enough to figure out a couple resistors on the data lines. It's not like they're using crypto auth on the charger. They have a perfectly valid reason to do this. Devices which charge from "dumb" chargers aren't following the spec, though this is a common industry practice.

    As it turns out, the USB-IF came up with a USB Battery Charging spec [usb.org]. The spec is long and boring, but it boils down to: short together the data lines (no resistors required) and you indicate that you're a dumb charger that can supply anywhere from 0.5A to 1.5A.

    Guess what happens when you short the data lines of an iPhone 3G and supply 5V [marcansoft.com]. Did Apple just follow a standard? Incredible!

    (Yes, I'm not following the USB spec there by in turn using a USB cable to supply the 5V and not negotiating over its data lines. I didn't feel like grabbing a dedicated 5V PSU for the shot, so sue me.)"""

    http://marcansoft.com/transf/iphonechg.jpg

    ok ??? :D no need for resistors, only 5.3V MAX and d+ and d- shorted
    2
    but smt is wrong on your custom setup, voltage ??

    EDIT: i just measure the original charger and it has no resistance between the data and power pins.

    I think i know what could be wrong, when you plug in the Tab and it says not charging, how many volts have you got at that time ?

    The original charger is very good because when it not charging the tab it has 5.3x volts but when you plug it in it lowers to 4.8x V Max and that is very good ! most chargers tend to lower much more (bad quality or just not powerful enough) and that is what causes the not charging messages on the tab or other devices.

    Well i rest my case on this.
    1
    Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
    Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
    To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.

    Usb pinout:
    gnd d- d+ 5v

    To work you must short d+ and d-.
    From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
    From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
    If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
    I tested it and it's working.
    To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.

    How can you do that? You need an extra device adapter? Please explain.
    1
    USB Charger

    This is what worked for me.

    Items Needed:

    USB Extension Cable
    33k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-1129)
    10k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-006)

    Steps:

    1. Cut USB Extension Cable in half, lets name the 2 halves, the half you will plug into the power suppy will be called "Cable A" and the half that you plug into the Galaxy Tab Data Cable will be called "Cable B"

    2. On 'Cable A" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, eliminate Green and White on this cable only as it will not be needed, leaving you with only the Red and the Black Cables

    3. On "Cable B" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, this should leave you exposing all 4 wires

    4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.

    5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.

    6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.

    7. No finally use Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing to cover all your work.

    This worked using it on a Champtek 5v 2.1a USB Car Charger and Home Charger. Also worked with iPhone charger. Also works with Original Galaxy Tab.

    Hope this helps out.