[INFO] Asus Transformer Minor Teardown
- Thread starter hybridau
- Start date
I got it from Wal-Mart, Ultrasteel 44 piece precision screwdriver bits set, part TS99818A, scan code 2342077163.
It's really useful for pretty much anything.In the same boat..
Hey guys,
I too am at the LCD point in the teardown. Funny, that Techrepublic teardown with images seems to leave out the digitizer and LCD removal steps.. One pic shows the LCD intact, and some pics later it is already removed.
It looks like there are screws under the digitizer, holding the LCD in at several points near the edges.. as you can see the bottoms of the screws from the metal underside.
I will try the heat gun suggestion tonight while also trying at the same time to gently wedge the plate free of the adhesive without breaking it, (and also being careful to not melt the ribbon cables from the digitizer). It looks have a thin, foam-like separator in between the glass and the metal frame. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Hey guys,
I too am at the LCD point in the teardown. Funny, that Techrepublic teardown with images seems to leave out the digitizer and LCD removal steps.. One pic shows the LCD intact, and some pics later it is already removed.
It looks like there are screws under the digitizer, holding the LCD in at several points near the edges.. as you can see the bottoms of the screws from the metal underside.
I will try the heat gun suggestion tonight while also trying at the same time to gently wedge the plate free of the adhesive without breaking it, (and also being careful to not melt the ribbon cables from the digitizer). It looks have a thin, foam-like separator in between the glass and the metal frame. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Did you finally manage to separate the glass from the screen? I am curious as I would like to attempt cleaning dust buildup between the glass and the digitizer. Thank in advance.
G
GuestK007
Guest
have you contacted Asus about this? they may have a solution or options for you.
Yes, I am waiting on an email request sent to Asus' online support service.
In the meantime, I'm looking at various options, including replacing the entire screen. Some sites who specialize in selling LCD screens list TF101 screens at around 70$. At that price, I wouldn't even bother trying to clean it myself, but only if I can manage to complete the installation on my own without breaking the tablet in the process.
Last edited:
G
GuestK007
Guest
keep in mind, you could possibly trade dust particles for a low quality lcd panel. make sure if you buy one that it is from a good seller.
True, thanks for the tip.
In the meantime, I've been watching teardown videos, including this one in Russian:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-6dKsGJ4VY
Unfortunately, I haven't found a video (yet) that shows how to separate the Gorilla Glass cover from the digitizer in order to clean dust under it (maybe this isn't even possible, at least without breaking anything...).
G
GuestK007
Guest
in most cases they are bonded together, im unsure about the transformer. It's bothersome that dust is getting in between there to begin with. It's always best to buy a digitizer/lcd combo just to greatly reduce the risk of damage to either component.
I'm thinking the same thing. In any case, I'll report back when I get some news from Asus as well as a couple of LCD vendors I contacted.
It most likely sets a test mode or something. That mode probably requires a special jig to be useful.Well, I flipped the switch, now it won't turn on
Most newer LCD are fused to the digitizer and if you heat the digitizer with a heat gun most times it ruins the LCD. Do yourself a favor and buy one assembled or you will still get dirt in there or you will break the LCD. Pay the little extra and do this one time and not two.
Any details of the charging circuit, like what chip it uses? It needs 11-15V to charge normally but if completely switched off, it can do a slow charge from just 5V. It would be nice if that could be left on in order to use any 5V power supply as a runtime extender.
Complete disassembly in pictures here :
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/cracking-open-the-asus-eee-pad-transformer-tf101/6270147?seq=61&tag=siu-container;thumbnail-view-selector
Complete disassembly video (russian) in here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-6dKsGJ4VY
Most newer LCD are fused to the digitizer and if you heat the digitizer with a heat gun most times it ruins the LCD. Do yourself a favor and buy one assembled or you will still get dirt in there or you will break the LCD. Pay the little extra and do this one time and not two.
I finally bit the bullet and sent my tablet to an Asus support outlet in North Bay, Ontario. We'll see how much replacing the screen will cost in a few days.
Do you mean that dust under the screen is not covered by warranty? I have the same problem, and don't know what to do. Ideally I would clean it by myself but don't know how
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using xda premium
I received my tablet early this week. The RMA process took just over two weeks overall. I got the screen replaced, no charge as dust under it was covered by the unit's warranty. Basically, all I paid for was shipping to a service center located in North Bay, Ontario, it paid shipping back.
I'm a happy camper, way to go, Asus!
Asus Eee Pad Transformer TF101 Touch Screen Digitizer Glass Repair Replacement
v v v dot ebay dot com/itm/Asus-Eee-Pad-Transformer-TF101-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-Glass-Repair-Replacement-/390408444261#ht_1870wt_1163
v v v dot ebay dot com/itm/Asus-Eee-Pad-Transformer-TF101-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-Glass-Repair-Replacement-/390408444261#ht_1870wt_1163
Similar threads
- Poll
Top Liked Posts
-
There are no posts matching your filters.
-
39Well today I thought I'd see what could be done about a light bleed spot that was annoying me. There are a couple of light bleed spots (seems pratically evident to some degree on all IPS screen devices). Anyway I did a minor disassemble as a result.
Result: Impossible to get rid of completely, its just an unfortunate trade off. I did manage to make it less intense and under normal light conditions and 60% brightness you can not really notice it now. p.s. there is nothing to "losen" the screen. It is not screwed down by the edges.
Anyway since it was apart I took some pics so you can see what is inside the beast
WARNING: The bezel is VERY fragile, so be warned. I used a guitar pick to remove it VERY carefully. After the bezel is off its easy sailing to remove the back cover. /warning
Enjoy.
LHS Speaker (CRAP!!!)
2
Hi stuntdouble,
Two torx screws have to come off first, these are part of what holds the bezel down.
After that you need to use a guitar pick from the back to lift the bezel up...best to get all 4 corners up and keep sliding..as soon as it wont slide lift it out and back in again a bit further on... it absolutely destroyed the pick by the way..lots of sharp edges in there.
The bezel will then come off from the front of the tablet. Just be careful and dont force it, Around the 40 pin connector was the biggest pain.
The back cover is held down by 4 screws on the top glass, and umm if I recall about 10 screws behind where the bezel . It basically then falls off once all screws are off with not to much effort.
There are also no security stickers over any of the screws anywhere inside the tablet1Well I was feeling like taking a little look inside tonight, so I opened mine up too. I'm glad I did, as it allowed me to clear the dust particles from behind the back camera plastic cover, and also my screen and bezel now line up properly, unlike before, as one side was slightly recessed and the other side was out slightly. Also after tightening all screws inside, I no longer have any creaking of the plastic back casing.
It's actually built a lot better than I was expecting tbh. Took it slow and steady and didn't damage anything afaik. Was surprised by how much dust had accumulated just under the bezel area.
A word of warning for anyone opening up their device. I noticed that certain screws had something blue on the threading. Not sure if this is there for a reason or if it's just some dye from a circuit board, but it was a different colour to anything else inside so it stood out to me. Not all of the screws had this colour, so be sure to replace the correct ones in the right holes when you reinsert them. Don't know if Asus could tell from this if someone had opened their case or not, but to me it's not worth the risk if I ever wanted to return it under warranty.
Just as I'd put the last screw back in I realised the power and volume buttons were at an angle. So had to open it back up again and reseat them. Didn't take long though. I also took a load of pics of the inside, and also read the various part number barcodes. Didn't get any results on google when I looked them up though.1So I ended up opening up my TF, which btw was the easiest piece of electronic equipment that I have tore into.
After inspecting everything, retightening the screws, and reassembling, the creaking seems to have lessened a little bit, but it is definitely still there.
An interesting thing that I noticed is that there is a small protruding eyelet on one side that doesn't seem to attach to anything. I didn't think anything of it before I reassembled the TF, but looking back it might be rubbing against the inside of the bezel to cause the creak. Regardless there is too much flex in the plastic backing for me, that is a minor annoyance- but I'm really picky.
I plan on opening this thing back up and will record and post a video if noone else does- when I have some time.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using XDA Premium App1
It says 7.2V, and LiIon are almost always 3.6V. So these are 2 3300mAh cells connected in series for 7.2V. Amp-hours is meaningless when talking about capacity unless you know the voltage. Really the equitable way to measure capacity is in watt-hours which takes the voltage into account. 2 3300mAh 3.6V cell is 23.76Wh, which is the same capacity as a single 6600mAh cell.
New posts
-
[Android 11/R] LineageOS 18.1 for LG G3 (Unofficial) + OTA + Signature Spoofing
- Latest: robert_lg_android
-
