[NEED TESTER] 3D Printable GRILLS (Stock and Custom)

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pelelademadera

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Aug 20, 2013
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you can print and tell the printer make the top and botton anyway wou want, lines in any angle or concentric.
my print is the worst quality I can get for a .4mm nozzle, its 0.3 mm layer height.

print quality can be increased a lot with a 0.1mm layer and a 0,3mm nozzle, of course a 0.2 will be better, I have a 0.3 to try, but I think the best way to do is simple, then sand, and spray with any paint.
will be nearly perfect...

the other option is print it in abs and acetone to do the soft edges, with a lot of caution, cause is a toxic quimic.


but I think paint it will be the best option to get a professional work.

then you can print a case cover so you protect the phone... I draw one some time ago, is posted somewere here
 
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Masterjuggler

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I just checked out the V2 STLs. A few suggestions:

- Try to make the wall thickness (material between slits, holes, etc.) some multiple of 0.48mm. The most common nozzle diameter on an FDM printer is 0.4mm, which usually (or hopefully) creates 0.48mm wide extrude lines due to a (subjectively) optimal 120% extrusion width. At the very least, Simplify3d does 120% by default and I've found it works well for me with every printer and slicing software I've used.
- Up the polygon count on the camera hole. It looks like there's 13 squares currently. 30 would be a better number, and should grow the file size by a noticeable amount. This just makes for a rounder hole that will fit over the camera better. Especially if it's printed with anything other than FDM, like SLA or SLS.

And a note to everyone: Keep in mind that every printer is different an almost no two printers will keep the same tolerances. If your slicer software isn't able to scale along individual axes, I suggest ditching and switching to something with that basic functionality. I prefer Slic3r. It may be slower on larger models, but unlike other software, because it's written in perl it'll just keep chugging along without crashing until it's done. If you use a Makerbot.... I'm sorry, but you have the iphone of the 3d printer world.
 
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I just checked out the V2 STLs. A few suggestions:

- Try to make the wall thickness (material between slits, holes, etc.) some multiple of 0.48mm. The most common nozzle diameter on an FDM printer is 0.4mm, which usually (or hopefully) creates 0.48mm wide extrude lines due to a (subjectively) optimal 120% extrusion width. At the very least, Simplify3d does 120% by default and I've found it works well for me with every printer and slicing software I've used.
- Up the polygon count on the camera hole. It looks like there's 13 squares currently. 30 would be a better number, and should grow the file size by a noticeable amount. This just makes for a rounder hole that will fit over the camera better. Especially if it's printed with anything other than FDM, like SLA or SLS.

And a note to everyone: Keep in mind that every printer is different an almost no two printers will keep the same tolerances. If your slicer software isn't able to scale along individual axes, I suggest ditching and switching to something with that basic functionality. I prefer Slic3r. It may be slower on larger models, but unlike other software, because it's written in perl it'll just keep chugging along without crashing until it's done. If you use a Makerbot.... I'm sorry, but you have the iphone of the 3d printer world.
well, i'll have to look into that... i just used "save as" from Solid Edge and that file came out ?
 

Masterjuggler

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I just found out you can make a printer print a file made by a CAM program?

Well technically yes. Slicer programs for printers like Slic3r and Cura take a model and generate Gcode that the printer can work with, which makes them CAM programs already, but without integrated CAD. If you're talking about a CAM program dedicated to CNC machines like Easel, I don't think they have 3d printer functionality built in. Printers use a different flavor of Gcode than other CNC machines. For example most printers don't take arc commands, which kills me because you need a million little f****** line movements to make an arc.

I'm pretty sure Fusion 360 already has it built in, though idk how good it is.
 
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Well technically yes. Slicer programs for printers like Slic3r and Cura take a model and generate Gcode that the printer can work with, which makes them CAM programs already, but without integrated CAD. If you're talking about a CAM program dedicated to CNC machines like Easel, I don't think they have 3d printer functionality built in. Printers use a different flavor of Gcode than other CNC machines. For example most printers don't take arc commands, which kills me because you need a million little f****** line movements to make an arc.

I'm pretty sure Fusion 360 already has it built in, though idk how good it is.
Well I have access to NX, and it's exactly the same with CNC mills - a curve is usually made by a bunch of lines.
I thought printers may take some format like Parasolid or something.
 
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Masterjuggler

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Well I have access to NX, and it's exactly the same with CNC mills - a curve is usually made by a bunch of lines.
I thought printers may take some format like Parasolid or something.

I only have a little experience with CNC machines, but I can tell you that just like CNC machines, the printers themselves only read Gcode which must be either written by hand or through CAM. The type of model you can use is dependent on the CAM, not the machine.

With CNC mills, while the end result is a bunch of lines, the Gcode command is an arc function, G2 and G3 IIRC. Most printers simply don't take those commands and require each line to be a separate line in Gcode.
 
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kitcostantino

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couldn't you just paint the originals?

actually, if you have a grey axon, the plastic beneath the grey paint is black. so you could, theoretically, just sand them. i initially wanted these for my gold (now 80% parted out) axon 7, and the gold speaker grilles are white plastic.

i like the idea of printing black ones better than harming my mint grey ones. ;) hopefully, i can find some time soon. ;)
 
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bookburner

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Jan 19, 2012
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So just a wish since the prototype files are moving along nicely. I would love a version with honeycombs or hexagon shaped holes that are obviously bigger then the current holes. And are we supposed to paint the printouts? Any recommendations for a good finish. I live in SF so I'm sure I can find a maker space that will let me use a 3d printer
 

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So just a wish since the prototype files are moving along nicely. I would love a version with honeycombs or hexagon shaped holes that are obviously bigger then the current holes. And are we supposed to paint the printouts? Any recommendations for a good finish. I live in SF so I'm sure I can find a maker space that will let me use a 3d printer
I'd say use the smallest extruder available, also very low speeds. If you can print in ABS, it's much better to sand than PLA. Otherwise you can use something as filler and then sand it afterwards. Spray paint, and you're done
 

Predatorhaze

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ive painted my speaker grills black,on my axon 7 g grey.Looks very nice~!! im thinking of painting the back (chassis) also in black and make the text white
 

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    Custom and Stock Grills for the Axon 7


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