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Ever tried JTAG unbrick recovery?

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By AdamOutler, Inactive Recognized Developer on 20th March 2011, 02:06 AM
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5th April 2011, 06:41 AM |#11  
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wasnt just talking to him. hes not the only one reading!!! Noobs read this too you know!!
and im a mechanical engineering technician, i know how small that is... but wait other people can read and learn that!
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5th April 2011, 06:43 AM |#12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trusselo

wasnt just talking to him. hes not the only one reading!!!

true, disregard
5th April 2011, 12:15 PM |#13  
Hey it just donned on me! I used to be a laser welder. Worked on jewelry for Josten's. The size you are talking about is something I did all day. If you were to find a high end jewelry repair shop or high end custom jewelry store, they could do it for you. They called us welders, but our lasers were called laser solder by the manufacturer.

I could build material on the end o if a needle. Try them.
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5th April 2011, 03:08 PM |#14  
The JTAG port has 12 connections. It has a pitch of .4mm, and a row spacing of ~.9mm-ish. I believe something like this may be appropriate.

http://mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/AXT%203%204.pdf

However, I'm going to order several of these and find one which may be configurable as a non-solder connection
http://www.mouser.com/Interconnects/...z0wx36Z1z0wxoo
5th April 2011, 03:48 PM |#15  
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trusselo

also dont forget they do have USB to serial port cables about 40$ at futureshop. ALSO its is cheaper and easier to just add a serial port to your pc. they run about 10$ at any computer supply shop, it goes in the backplate and connects to your motherboard.

Most mother boards that dont have serial on it will have a pinout to add it!

JTAG uses a paralell port. Serial will not work. I have a few USB>Serial adapters. I have a serial port on my desktop. Serial will not work for this.

The reason I am focusing on Arduino is because 1. I already have one. 2.They are cheap($20). 3. They can be repurposed in minutes from one task to the next. 4. They hook up with USB, so there is no need to install anything on the computer. 5. The next best thing would be RIFF JTAG and that costs $150+

Paralell would be easiest if you have one on your desktop already, but don't forget that you would also need a paralell cable to destroy for this and those cost $10 usually. Then when you finish, you cannot use the cable again. With an arduino, you can repurpose it for another project.
5th April 2011, 03:54 PM |#16  
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dani897

does it need to be non soldered?

as for non solder i think a small piece of circuit board material with all the copper you dont want etched or milled away is the best way to manufacture it. you will either need to laser cut the mask and etch it or i can mill it and solder maybe magnet wire to it, or maybe a small ribbon cable if you know of a source for that.

just noticed your sig, are you a vet? would be happy to help out a fellow vet, pm me if you want me to take a shot at making a connector.

I would like to try non-solder because that would mean cleaner work. Once you add solder to the project, Samsung and/or AT&T service center can tell that someone has done unprofessional work. I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible..... I'm thinking it may be possible to somehow make a jig setup with a few standardized components for others to reproduce.... Like say.... 'use "this" connector and glue a 1/4watt resistor to the corner then strap a rubber band over the top.. Now your connection is positioned properly.'

Basically, we need something that will strap, or sit on the unit without altering it and be fully reproducable by anyone with a bit of technical knowledge.
5th April 2011, 04:42 PM |#17  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamOutler

I would like to try non-solder because that would mean cleaner work. Once you add solder to the project, Samsung and/or AT&T service center can tell that someone has done unprofessional work. I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible..... I'm thinking it may be possible to somehow make a jig setup with a few standardized components for others to reproduce.... Like say.... 'use "this" connector and glue a 1/4watt resistor to the corner then strap a rubber band over the top.. Now your connection is positioned properly.'

Basically, we need something that will strap, or sit on the unit without altering it and be fully reproducable by anyone with a bit of technical knowledge.

understood. if you dont find anything i think i can fabricate something but it's not something i can tell others how to do unless they have precision tool. i guess that will be a last resort.
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5th April 2011, 05:03 PM |#18  
I just placed about 15 connectors on order from mouser electronics, all of which should fit the bill. It's now a matter of waiting for them to get here. Once they get here I'll be able to test and modify each connector to figure out reproducability.
6th April 2011, 05:49 PM |#19  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamOutler

JTAG uses a paralell port. Serial will not work. I have a few USB>Serial adapters. I have a serial port on my desktop. Serial will not work for this.

parallel port / usb adapter is what i meant. my bad. its been a while. serial/parallel i know theirs a big difference but same crap.. lol
my point was they make em.
6th April 2011, 09:26 PM |#20  
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Currently as you mentioned, size is the limiting factor on my JTAG Captivate service. There is NO JTAG adapter like there are for several hundred other devices. To knowledge, the Captivate has the smallest JTAG points of any Samsung Device. This is due to the fact there are not corresponding pads for each point like every other device. Soldering poses such a large risk of damaging the board an adapter is really necessary to make this an actual service as the skill required to pull this off as a service on a regular basis is very very difficult.

I've talked with even multi-com.pl about making one and even they are not ready to do this.

As far as all the Serial/Parallel talk, I'm not sure why that is even being brought up as in most cases you will need an intermediate device to interface with proprietary software in order to re-write a bootloader.

I've been very busy with the HD2 market JTAG'ing all the HD2 boards and it's been nice to be able to help so many phones for others that were trashed until I began to do it. OP, stay in touch with me on how this goes for you.
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7th April 2011, 12:03 AM |#21  
^^ It is my understanding that JTAG (Joint Test Action Group) is a set standard and there is no special communication outside of the JTAG standards. According to the wikipedia .. yeah I know wiki... This is IEEE 1149.1 which means any JTAG cable can interface with any JTAG device, it's all about the software running on the computer. The same open-source software that they use for flashing dd-wrt on Linksys Routers should work on our phones with the proper offset settings because it is JTAG.

I will try out some of the software on this page http://jtagcables.com/jtag-software

The RIFF-JTAG is a easier tool, yet expensive. RIFF-JTAG is a hardware/software combination which allows automatic downloading of sane flashes for most devices and from what I can see a variety of interfaces including USB, Ethernet and Serial to the computer. RIFF-JTAG makes its money by making the flashes and offsets for supported devices a 1 click operation. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this.
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