Parrot MK6000 review

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BennTech

Senior Member
Mar 10, 2006
154
2
Yes I love technology, I even want to put TV and Wi-Fi in my car, just for the heck of it. I want to put lambo doors, I already have DVD, Kenwood in-dash 719-DVD... lots of stuff there, so I can install a bluetooth for my kenwood 719dvd and pick the phone from there, but if this device can do both things then great (I don't want to hear my voice through the speakers anyway)

rafa...LOL, nice setup, and if I'm following the entire post correctly, you basically want to know if you can have multiple Bluetooth devices connected to the MK6000 at a time? I know the MK6000 can manage up to 5 pairings, but I don't think they can be connected simultaneously because the MK6000 wouldn't know which device to control when you pushed buttons like Talk or Play.
 

Hlorri

Member
Jun 23, 2008
27
4
Works!

Hi folks,

I am new to this forum; I signed up just to comment on this thread. :) As Dan (dmak100) said, it ranks very high when you search for MK6000 reviews on Google. Like Dan, I was nearly scared away from buying the kit after reading about Bennet's experience with it, but after reading Dan's post plus material from a couple of other sources, I decided to give it a try. I installed it just a couple of days ago. I am glad I did: So far it works pretty well, albeit with a couple of (minor) quirks. More on that below.

First the background. I own a 2004 Toyota Sienna with just the plain factory stereo (no JBL). My phone is a Nokia N95 8GB, docked with a Brodit device holder (from ProClipUSA.Com). I also use this phone as my GPS device (Nokia Maps), Internet Radio player (to stream radio from abroad), as well as generic music player. I had already gone through a number of different handsfrree/streaming options, and contemplated even more:
  • The Motorola T505 w/FM transmitter: OK sound for handsfree use, limited frequency response (< 15000 Hz) and so not that great for music; also the occasional static; plus lots of steps to start/stop audio streaming via car stereo.
  • A custom soldered adapter to use a standard 2.5mm headset as well as a cassette adapter with my phone. The sound quality was excellent for both phone calls and music; but not as convenient, since I couldn't easily grab the phone out of the cradle (e.g. to browse for music, search on Google Maps etc.) without also disconnecting the wire. Plus, I am kindof a neat-freak, and the extra wiring was just, well, ghastly... :rolleyes:
  • I looked at some aftermarket stereos with built-in or optional bluetooth (mainly at crutchfield.com). I wanted one with decent voice pickup (i.e. not integrated into the deck itself), that integrates well with my steering wheel controls, and that does not look too gaudy with blinking lights and animations etc. That narrowed the field considerably. I liked the way that Eclipse units integrated with steering wheel controls (no adapter required, and with the exact set of controls available in Toyotas and Hondas), but the reviews did not give it very high marks for voice pickup. The Pioneer DEH-P7000BT looks very attractive (stylish, not flashy), comes with a wired microphone to mount anywhere, and apparently has decent voice quality; also with a SWI-PS adapter, matches my steering wheel controls adequately (though the radio would be seek up/down rather than channel up/down). The problem with this one is that every function is on the main knob, which can be turned, tilted, pushed, and lends itself very easily to accidental operation (I walked into a local Best Buy and tried it out). In the end, I did not find any satisfactory unit.

So that led me to the MK6000, which I now installed using a QCToy-1 adapter harness from parrotkits.com ($50). That really made the installation a breeze: No wires to cut, strip, splice, or miswire. Just plug the harness into the wires from the kit, as well as between your car stereo and the plugs currently connected to it. There was simply no way to go wrong here.

Just to address a couple of Bennet's issues here:
If you read my review, you would know that the MK6000 does not mute the radio feed that passes through it and instead relies on the radio to mute itself when signaled to do so by the mute wire. However, many radios don't have this mute wire, and that's an important point that shouldn't be nonchalantly dismissed.

I was a bit concerned about this, since my factory stereo also does not have a mute line; however with the ParrotKits harness, I had no such problem.

Next, as Bennet said elsewhere, it is necessary to update the firmware in this device to fix some lock-up scenarios. With the factory installed version (1.00), music streaming would not resume following a phone call (actually the phone would restart streaming, but nothing would come out through the speakers). None of the music controls on the MK6000 responded either. After upgrading to the current version (1.03), these issues have disappeared. :)

Regarding the firmware upgrade process itself, I do have a couple of choice words for Parrot, should they choose to hear me out. This is 2008. We use our cell phones with bluetooth keyboards to get web browsing and e-mail on our TV sets. We use internet-centric office applications. Why the **** are Parrot stuck with a Bill Gates-style 1980-era vision of a "PC Centric" computer experience!?!? Even the Parrot devices themselves have more storage, more advanced features than computers did back then! Yes, you need a Windows PC to do the update, despite the fact that Bluetooth technology was really pushed onto "mainstream" computers by way of Apple. When I went to retreive the upgrade from my Mac, I was out of luck. I needed to use my wife's PC, for which I then needed to get a bluetooth adapter. Stupid idiots. (Probably French, too).

That said, with the new firmware version (1.03) installed, things are working pretty good:
  • Each time I start the car, the unit connects to my cell phone and automatically synchronizes all my contacts. You can select and dial them from the device itself, but I prefer to use my phone's voice command feature. For that, I simply push the green button.
  • I can start playing music or other audio from my phone; the car stereo is automatically muted. This was for me the biggest selling point over a aftermarket bluetooth stereo, which would require manually setting the source to bluetooth before hearing the audio; though in retrospect, the latter may have turned out better (see below).
  • Handsfree voice quality is pretty darn good - certainly better than the Motorola T505, or even most bluetooth headsets. There are no echoes on the other end, and background noise is quite effectively filtered out; instead, just my voice (and even the voice of my children in the back seat, speaking softly!) are heard. FWIW, I mounted the microphone in the ceiling under the console, right above the rearview mirror.

Now, there are a couple of issues too:
  • There is a 1-2 second delay from when the phone starts streaming and the radio mutes until the sound comes through. This is not noticable when you play music, but since I also use my phone as a GPS device, each instruction gets chopped off in the beginning. This, too me, is the single most annoying factor with the MK6000 and its interaction with my phone. I tried a couple of workarounds, such as pressing the Play/Pause button twice (to start playing, then pausing the music, in order to keep the MK6000 switched to the bluetooth channel), but after the following instruction, the device switches back to the car stereo nonetheless. I guess I'll live with this; if I really need the instruction, I can always press the "4" key on my phone to repeat the instruction within the 1-2 seconds that the MK6000 is still muting the stereo, and/or just look at the display.
  • When playing music, any gap between the tracks causes the MK6000 to briefly switch back to the car stereo before starting the next track. The workaround would be to turn off your stereo when streaming music from your phone.
  • When any sort of notification is displayed on my phone (e.g. when I seat it in the dock and it starts charging, when the battery is full, etc) the car audio mutes for a few seconds, without any sound. This is of course due to the phone itself, not the MK6000, but annoying nonetheless.
  • Likewise, about 5-10 seconds after powering on the car, when the MK6000 has connected to my phone, it mutes the stereo to play a sound. I find this interruption a bit annoying as well.
  • There are no sound controls other than volume. For instance, no equalizer/bass/treble, balance, fade, etc.
  • Being used to the steering wheel controls, I find myself trying to use that to raise/lower sound volume while streaming or talking on the phone, which of course controls my stereo instead. I've only had it for 2 days though -- I'll get used to it.

Finally, one last response to Bennet's comment:
There are 2 vastly different types of MK6000 firmware:
  1. One language with text-to-speech.
  2. All languages pack without text-to-speech.
Text-to-speech (TTS) drives the internal phonebook and voice recognition, the latter of which gets intercepted by the MK6000 if TTS is installed. Thus, if you want to use your phone's internal voice recognition, you must use the "all languages" firmware. Then you're stuck with multiple languages which are too easy to inadvertently change [...] If I'm wrong, somebody please post a correction so I'm not promulgating misinformation.

Well... I downloaded the English-only firmware (with voice synthesis), and I am certainly able to invoke my phone's voice prompt simply by pressing the green button. (Alternatively, the first push on the middle knob gives me "phone book"; a confirmational second push gives "A", and a third push reads out the first contact whose name starts with "A". At any step, you can use the wheel to scroll through the remaining choices).

All in all, I am satisfied with the device itself. As mentioned, there are a couple of interaction issues with my phone and usage pattern, and since I am still within the return period, I am still contemplating the aftermarket stereo route as well. My main concern with this, as said, would be the handsfree audio (voice pickup) quality -- I have not yet come across any comparison of the MK6000 or other Parrot devices with such stereos (though independently, good reviews for both the MK6000 and the DEH-P7000BT). I'd love to read about the experiences of others who have done such comparisons! :rolleyes:

Best,
Tor
 
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sonica

Member
May 26, 2006
16
0
OK. I have had enough. I am happy to give up on the MK6000 and buy something new now if I absolutely have to. Alternatively, I am happy to purchase a completely new Sat Nav system (i.e. separate from my PDA). All I want to be able to do is walk out of my car and take my pda and sat nav with me (even if they are separate items). Then when I get back into my car, I want my phone and sat nav to use my car speakers.

Firstly, does anyone know of any Sat Nav system that is compatiable with the MK6000 i.e. so that phone, music and sat nav all use the MK6000. Obviously Tom Tom PDA version is not. Is there any other Sat Nav that I can load onto my PDA where it will work? If not is there a separate Sat Nav system I can purchase? If not is there any way (without hard wiring the three devices to my car) to achieve the same purpose?
 

RRF9

New member
Jan 30, 2008
4
0
Sierra de Madrid
Finally, my phone has locked up several times when I receive a call while driving, whether I'm streaming music or not. This has only happened while connected to the MK6000. I'll get a call and try to answer it on both the MK6000 and directly on the phone, but my phone won't respond and just keeps ringing until the call finally goes to voicemail. I ultimately have to soft-reset the phone. It's like this comedy skit I remember (Monty Python maybe?) where a phone rings, someone picks up the phone receiver, and the phone keeps ringing and ringing despite all his attempts to answer it.

:confused:Please :(
WHICH IS THE SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM?
My PDA ia HTC Diamon 1 with ROM DGira VX3N and Radio is 1.15.25.14
 

BennTech

Senior Member
Mar 10, 2006
154
2
Geez, chill out!

Geez, RRF9, chill out without the obnoxious fonts.

My problem that you quoted is an incompatibility between Parrot devices and Microsoft Windows Mobile. I have had many incompatibility problems on all versions of the Parrot firmware when used with my Wizard, Kaiser, and some other phone (Hermes maybe?). Phones were running WM5, WM6, and/or WM6.1, all in numerous flavors from stock ROMs to cooked ROMs from various chefs. I haven't tried WM6.5 yet so can't comment on that.

The fact that all these problems occur only with the Parrot and not with any of my other Bluetooth headsets, not to mention across the different hardware of several phones, points the blame squarely at Parrot. That said, don't forget to blame Microsoft, too, who made OSes so crappy that they can't handle a misbehaving Bluetooth device.

Thus, the solution is one of the following:

  1. Soft-reset your phone every time it happens (as I stated), or
  2. Get a new non-Parrot hands-free car kit (and be careful because many manufacturers use Parrot internally), or
  3. Get a new non-Microsoft phone.
If none of those work for you (and granted they all suck as solutions), try posting a new thread in an appropriate forum like the Parrot forums and/or the XDA Diamond forum instead of hijacking a thread that's been dead for well over a year.
 

villama8

New member
Dec 17, 2008
1
0
I agree. There is an incompatibility between Parrot car kits and Windows Mobile. However it can be fixed changing the Windows Mobile Bluetooth configuration.
I solved the problems between my HTC Diamond and the car kit Fiscon (parrot chipset CK5050) changing the AudioGateWay settings. It works well either with the official Vodafone ROM and the CIBERUS custom ROM (both Spanish).

The solution:
Add the key SniffMax=1 (DWORD) under HKLM\\Software\Microsoft\Bluetooth\AudioGateway.

I am not an expert but probably this could be used to fix several compatibility problems between Parrot and Windows Mobile.

Best Regards
 

BennTech

Senior Member
Mar 10, 2006
154
2
Hadn't found that setting yet, but alas I tried it and it didn't help my myriad of WM/Parrot problems. Seems like lost connections (like what happens after EVERY phone call with my Parrot) re-establish faster, but that could just be my imagination wanting it to work better. ;)

Last weekend I switched carriers & got a Touch Pro2. Unfortunately its Sprint and thus has only WM6.1 stock. I'll be unlocking/flashing to WM6.5 in the next few weeks to see if the new OS fixes issues with my Parrot, like the No Sound in Call that is triggered by my Parrot.
 

dafunky

Senior Member
Jan 7, 2009
395
43
Up for this interesting question, or any other feedback concerning this MK6000. I'm planning to buy one for my car (unless you know something better, anything having no LCD)
 

sonica

Member
May 26, 2006
16
0
Up for this interesting question, or any other feedback concerning this MK6000. I'm planning to buy one for my car (unless you know something better, anything having no LCD)

I have the Parrott and really do not like it. I haven't tried the IO mentioned above but it sounds better than the Parrott.
 

BennTech

Senior Member
Mar 10, 2006
154
2
Try the Parrot MKi9000

Haven't tried the iO mentioned above.

However, since my last post, I upgraded to a Parrot MKi9100 after I accidentally shredded the wires of my MK6000's remote unit. The MK6000 is basically dead with no further development of its firmware, and the cost of a new remote unit was half the price of a brand new MKi9000. Consequently, I upgraded and got the MKi9100. BTW, the MKi9100 with LCD was only about $20 more than the MKi9000 sans LCD.

The wiring of the MKi9x00 series is exactly the same, so all the install problems/solutions are the same as mentioned in my review above, with the notable exceptions that (1) the remote unit is now wireless so you can mount it wherever you want, e.g., on your steering wheel, and (2) it has a wired external unit with connections for an iPOD, 3.5mm line in (e.g., connect to any MP3 player), and USB flash drives containing either music or firmware upgrades. That's right, firmware upgrades are now done via USB instead of requiring a laptop with Bluetooth. The MKi9100 has an LCD, which I find useful during configuration to navigate menus faster, but it's not necessary since the MKi9x00 series have good voice prompts for all the menus. If you don't want the LCD, try the MKi9000.

As far as connectivity, the MKi9x00 series has resolved virtually all the phone/Parrot issues mentioned above with the MK6000. I no longer have lockups or the no sound in calls problems. I'm currently running a T-Mobile Touch Pro2 with EnergyROM WM6.5. It still doesn't automatically connect Bluetooth A2DP, but I can establish it via the MKi9100's menus, so I start A2DP, start my music player (with help from Microsoft Voice Command), and stream music from my phone without needing to take it out of my pocket/bag. Yea! Finally!

However, all is not entirely perfect. I had problems streaming music via Bluetooth--the entire connection would drop between every song. If I crossfaded, the disconnection was less frequent, but still happened every 5 or 6 songs. Hugely annoying. I dropped the bitrate of the Bluetooth connection from "Very High" to "Medium" and that seems to have resolved that issue.

Second issue is that the USB drive supports FAT16 ONLY. It won't even support FAT32. Wow. Welcome to 1987, Parrot. FAT32 has been around since Windows 95 and virtually every modern USB device (cards, thumbdrives, phones, MP3 players, etc.) is going to be FAT32 by default. Consequently, none of them will work with the Parrot unless you reformat them as FAT16, which severely limits the Parrot's USB usability. It's possible a firmware update could add FAT32 support in the future unless there is some underlying hardware limitation, which is only reason I can see to not support FAT32 initially. (BTW, I didn't figure out the FAT16 thing until after I ripped apart my dash and RMA'd my first MKi9100 unit.) :(

Overall, the MKi9x00 series are a huge improvement over the MK6000, although you'll still have the same physical install issues, particularly in the U.S., and the lack of FAT32 support is appalling. Other than that, I highly recommend the Parrot MKi9x00. Much better than my marginal review of the MK6000.

--Bennett
 

dafunky

Senior Member
Jan 7, 2009
395
43
THank you for your feedback. In the meantime, I've looked for a mki9x00 and this feedback is very welcome. For now I've ordered the ISO connector. I'm waiting for a good price for a parrot, and I was wondering which model I wanted. As the 9200 is only 15€ more expensive than the 9000 one, I was wondering if I could take a 9200 or 9100 and remove the screen if I finally consider it to be useless : is it "backward" compatible?

I just want a good streamed connexion between phone and car, I don't care a big color screen. But maybe I don't know the real use of these goodies.
 

BennTech

Senior Member
Mar 10, 2006
154
2
Screens are optional

You don't have to use the screens of either the MKi9100 or MKi9200. They both attach to a small wired mount, but the screens themselves are removable--you're supposed to store them when not in use because extensive sunlight exposure degrades the screen.

As I said before, the menu prompts are good, so you don't need the screens, but they do make it faster. I've only got the MKi9100, which just displays menus, connection status, current song, etc., but I think the MKi9200 displays more things like album covers and has a memory card slot.
 

dafunky

Senior Member
Jan 7, 2009
395
43
Thank you for your precious help, I just ordered a 9100 (70 euros boxed, why bother?). I already received the SOT cable last week, and I'll decide afterwards whether I buy a Unika or not.

I've seen some feedbacks saying that the built in parrot amplifier gives a bad sound. People recommand using the car "AUX line in" jack input when available. But I hardly understand how we can keep auto mute, auto source switching and so on while using this jack option. Have you tried something like this?

EDIT : looks like it's possible to combine "parrot amplifier" and "line in" : http://forum.parrot.com/usa/viewtopic.php?id=4824
 
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BennTech

Senior Member
Mar 10, 2006
154
2
Parrot "standard" wiring is crap!

I've seen some feedbacks saying that the built in parrot amplifier gives a bad sound. People recommand using the "AUX in" jack input when available. But I hardly understand how we can keep auto mute, auto source switching and so on while using this jack option. Have you tried something like this?

Yes, the Parrot speaker output is total crap. Their 20W "amp" sucks. (Does 20W really qualify as an amp? And I think that's 20W total, which means only 5W per channel.) :eek: That wouldn't be an issue except that there is no pre-amp output! Seriously, WTF is Parrot thinking? People who buy an MK6000/MKi9x00 are spending the extra money because it streams music. Do they really think those same customers are going to be happy with Parrot's underpowered 20W? Even my cheap factory car stereo includes a 200W amp. And don't forget that the "standard" wiring outputs phone calls to the front speakers only, i.e., only 10W. And on the MK6000 (I don't know about the MKi9x00), the Parrot does not internally mute audio from the headunit, so if you have no mute (or an incompatible mute), you have to manually turn your headunit down/off. OK...enough rant. Let me get back to your question. :)

I got lucky with my setup that allows me to setup the best possible wiring, IMHO.

My headunit (Honda Element 2004 factory radio with downstream amp) has an Aux input with a connect/disconnect detection circuit. That circuit automatically switches my headunit to Aux if something is plugged into the Aux jack. Thus, I connected the Parrot output to the Aux input and patched the Parrot's mute wire to the Aux detect circuit. With this setup, whenever I receive a call or stream music over my Parrot, my headunit automatically switches to the Aux input. Furthermore, calls and music are both played on all speakers, not just the front like calls using the standard wiring.

The key element is the connect/disconnect detection circuit. Without it, the Parrot cannot automatically switch your headunit to the Aux input to notify you of calls.

Be sure to read my review of the MK6000 earlier in this thread, particularly the section on installation. The wiring is basically identical to the MKi9x00--I didn't have to change anything to replace my MK6000 with the MKi9100.
 

dafunky

Senior Member
Jan 7, 2009
395
43
Thank you for such a detailed answer. You're solving problems I hadn't started to imagine, so thanks. I think I'll manage to get things working like on your setup. I'll connect the 9100 to a BMW E90 having an aux input. I'm gonna check wether the car does automatically switch to this input when something is pluged in, this is a good start I think. More to come soon...
 

BennTech

Senior Member
Mar 10, 2006
154
2
Be sure to get a noise filter

Something I forgot to emphasize is that you should install a noise filter on the Parrot's continuous power.

Simple $4 filter from PartsExpress (10A Noise Filter, SKU 265-042) eliminated the hugely annoying engine/alternator whine that plagued my MK6000. I don't know if the MKi9000 still has the same problem since I just dropped it in place in my existing filtered wiring, but the filter is so cheap and easy there's no reason not to install it. Be sure to install on the continuous power (power source), not the ignition power (power toggle).
 

dafunky

Senior Member
Jan 7, 2009
395
43
Thanks for your advice. I'll start by putting a basic tore :

self-sur-tore-195888.jpg


I'll take tores from my computer power supply cemetery and roll the Parrot's wires around. I've read somewhere that isolating the "12v Ignition" can be useful too. All in all, reading this following article reveals that if all is wired correctly whine should be avoided without filters... If I still have whine I'll buy what you show.

http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html

By the way, some little questions before I receive the 9100.

- Did you need any additional cable?
- How long is the 3.5mm Jack line out cable?

I'm gonna buy some connectors to steal 12v ignition power on the car harness, as I don't have a "cigarette lighter" near the parrot.

connecteurs-auto-denudants.jpg
 
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BennTech

Senior Member
Mar 10, 2006
154
2
Instead of buying your item, I'll just get tores taken from my computer power supply cemetery and roll the Parrot's wires around. I've read somewhere that isolating the "12v Ignition" can be useful too. All in all, reading this article reveals that if all is wired correctly whine should be avoided without tores...

http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html

That's a good article. Unfortunately, I did the everything exactly the opposite. :) The problem was probably patching into 12V ignition, which resulted in a different ground loop than the OEM radio harness.

- Did you need any additional cable?
- How long is the 3.5mm Jack line out cable?

I'm gonna buy some connectors to steal 12v ignition power on the car harness, as I don't have a "cigarette lighter" near the parrot.

The cable about 1.5m long. (In case you're wondering, the connector is a 10-pin Molex, fairly common commercially, but a little hard to find for consumers.)

As for wiring, I should say that in the US, we don't have the cool standardized ISO connectors like Europe, so I originally bought a $50 harness to patch the MK6000 into my OEM connections, only to discover that the Parrot doesn't work with amps, hence the harness was useless and required all my custom wiring to patch into the Aux jack. I did a lot of extra wiring that most people don't need to do, like keeping my original Aux operational while allowing the MK6000 to patch in. (The MKi9x00 makes that obsolete now since it has its own Aux jack.)

One of the things I used in my numerous car mods is "Add-A-Circuit" or "Tapa-Circuit". Patches into the fuse box. Here's a picture I have from another project:

IMG_0575.jpg


The top is the Mini Add-A-Circuit, the bottom is my homemade splitter. The blue and red connectors are standard crimp-on connectors. I use the ones with full sheaths so they don't inadvertently short while buried under the dash. I like this setup better than the splicer you have pictured because these allow me to easily add/remove individual components without cutting/repairing wires.
 
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dafunky

Senior Member
Jan 7, 2009
395
43
All right, that's a good thing that your stuff. I received the MKi today, I'd like to test it before wiring it to the head unit. I've just tried to branch it on a 12v lighter, but it don't work. I guess that there's a trick to do with the ignition cable. Is there a workaround to get it working anyway? I think it's something simple such as merging ignition and battery cables, or something like that.