Usb charge

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peb1

Member
Jul 17, 2007
28
0
Slaný
5v 2amps galaxy note2

Hi, I tried 33k and 10k resistors to charge my galaxy note 2, but it only takes 1Amp from 5V source (and charging is slower), original charger charges with 2Amp, so I wonder if somebody has another wire diagram for Samsung galaxy note 2 with current 2Amps ?
 
Can charge my Galaxy p6200 AND use data pins?

I have an usb sdr adapter (software radio).
I want to connect it to my Galaxy Tab P6200, to listen to radios.
The P6200 doesn't have enough current in it's usb's to power up the usb's sdr, so, I am powering it (the usb sdr) using an external power suply.
Even so, the Galaxy's batter is being drained fast.
Is there any way to connect the usb's sdr AND, while using the apk to listen to radios, charge the battery?

Thanks for any help.

Sergio
 
Hi, I tried 33k and 10k resistors to charge my galaxy note 2, but it only takes 1Amp from 5V source (and charging is slower), original charger charges with 2Amp, so I wonder if somebody has another wire diagram for Samsung galaxy note 2 with current 2Amps ?

I performed this mod to a 3amp charger the other day. The voltages my stock charger put out match what was quoted here... 5, and two 1.5.

Using factory cable on my Note 2 with my generic 3amp charger, 460mah rate. After mod, 1800mah rate.

33k to positive, 10k to negative, both resistor ends to both data wires. Resistor tolerance bands facing phone, there's not much else to it!

Make sure the charger you are trying it with is rated for 2amps. It might regulate to 1amp or it might burn out if it can only do around 1amp safely.
 
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fastguy

Senior Member
Feb 22, 2006
660
139
I tried this on note 10.1 2014 Snapdragon version, did not differ from chargin with shorted D+ D- pins. It could only hit 1500-1600 mah. Maybe this one asks for 82k resistors as I saw in some S4 charging thread?
 

Galane

Senior Member
Jan 27, 2012
103
7
I'm going to try this on my Galaxy Tab 3 7". It will charge from my Galaxy S4 phone charger, which will also bring it up from a totally dead battery. But the tab will barely trickle charge from anything else, even a 2.1 amp Belkin iPad charger, and it won't come alive from a dead battery with anything but the S4 charger.

The phone will pull 460ma from a normal USB port and 1,900ma from the charger that came with it and the same from the Belkin charger. I assume the S4's charger has the 1.25V on the data lines. The Belkin charger must not or has iDevice compatible voltage on the data lines or they are simply shorted together. However it is, the Belkin does not output what the GT3 7" expects.

Now I have to cut the internal connector off the crappy aftermarket battery I bought for the GT3 to replace the original because one end of it broke off and apparently the contact that sends power to the circuit which monitors the power button is not making contact. The charge icon lights up and the original battery has been taking quite a while longer to charge off the S4 charger than the cheap replacement battery. Hopefully that's an indication it's actually 4,000mah and the cheap battery is considerably less. If I left it unplugged and off overnight the battery would be almost dead by morning. (Of course the GT3 7" is known for lousy power management, hopefully to be fixed *if* the GT3 7" ever gets Lollipop in the USA! Also waiting on Lolli for the S4. The rest of the planet has it on these, why don't we?!)

Had I known about Samsung's silly non-standard charging setup before I bought a supposedly genuine Samsung (black) charger off eBay (it went missing somewhere) and another white one - which I very carefully compared the printing in the images on eBay to my known genuine charger before ordering it... Only to find when I got it that it would barely charge my S4 and the tablet not at all, then it died. Closer examination showed the color of the text on the ersatz white charger was a slightly different color and the text size in the SAMSUNG logo was a slightly different size and the fake-o weighed a gram or so less. Would be nice if Samsung and eBay would crack down on all the sellers of counterfeit chargers!
 

eddiesitt

New member
Apr 26, 2015
4
0
I need your help.
I have the Samsung galaxy pro 10.1 and I need the resistor layout etc..
Thank you
Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.

Usb pinout:
gnd d- d+ 5v

To work you must short d+ and d-.
From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
I tested it and it's working.
 

Smiff2

Senior Member
Jan 29, 2011
160
13
there's def no way to do this in software right? the charge controller is in firmware somewhere else? what incredibly moronic design.. i guess when tablet came out >1Amp chargers weren’t' common.. yes we can make adapters but then it's only for this device, risk of damage etc.
 

StartX111

New member
May 7, 2010
3
0
Resistive divider for charging Samsung
I tested with 330kOm and 100kOm. Charges many devices! (Samsung, LG, Lenovo, MeiZu...)
+ ---------------|--------- +
in ac-dc(5v)........| for device (usb conector)
...........................................-
D+.................................| | R 330k
...........................................-
............................................|------ D+ and D-
...........................................-
D-..................................| | R 100k
...........................................-
............................................|
- ---------------------- -
 
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  • 11
    Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
    Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
    To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.

    Usb pinout:
    gnd d- d+ 5v

    To work you must short d+ and d-.
    From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
    From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
    If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
    I tested it and it's working.
    2
    I've tested with d-/d+ shorted and it's not working.

    @MizGarfield if u have 1 usb extension cable u can cut it on half.
    Tie together white and green wires.
    Tie black wires and conected to that 1 end of 10kohm resistor, the other end tie it to green/white wire.
    Same to red wires but use 33kohm resistor.

    See att. Sry for drawing.


    You don't need that for modern devices has i told you. It did not work because you did it wrong. I have all my usb chargers working the new way, you even have wikipedia talking about it. You have to cut the data + and - on the power supply from the female usb port and short only the female d+ and d-. Trust me it works and it is alot simpler.

    Edit : from wikipedia "The Dedicated Charging Port shorts the D+ and D- pins with a resistance of at most 200 Ω. The short disables data transfer, but allows devices to detect the Dedicated Charging Port and allows very simple, high current chargers to be manufactured. The increased current (faster, 9 W charging) will occur once both the host/hub and devices support the new charging specification."

    ""As of June 14, 2007, all new mobile phones applying for a license in China are required to use the USB port as a power port.[35][36] This was the first standard to use the convention of shorting D+ and D-.[37]""


    http://apple.slashdot.org/story/10/08/03/1743240/Hardware-Hackers-Reveal-Apples-Charger-Secrets

    ""We all love to call out Apple when they design deliberate incompatibility into their devices, but there is a perfectly valid technical reason for what Apple is doing here, and, in fact, they are following a USB specification (which LadyAda unfortunaterly didn't even test).

    Without data communications or when suspended, devices may legally draw no more than 2.5mA from a host, which is useless for charging. In fact, even if you're generous and pretend they're connected, devices are not allowed to draw more than 100mA without negotiating for a higher current, which requires actually talking to the host, and 100mA is still too little to charge properly. 500mA is the maximum allowed by the USB spec, but devices must negotiate it (there may be too many devices on the bus for negotiation to succeed).

    Before there was a spec for "dumb" USB chargers, Apple used the resistors as a sentinel to avoid drawing too much current from undersized chargers in order to avoid damaging the host. This is a hack, but it works, and honestly, we're smart enough to figure out a couple resistors on the data lines. It's not like they're using crypto auth on the charger. They have a perfectly valid reason to do this. Devices which charge from "dumb" chargers aren't following the spec, though this is a common industry practice.

    As it turns out, the USB-IF came up with a USB Battery Charging spec [usb.org]. The spec is long and boring, but it boils down to: short together the data lines (no resistors required) and you indicate that you're a dumb charger that can supply anywhere from 0.5A to 1.5A.

    Guess what happens when you short the data lines of an iPhone 3G and supply 5V [marcansoft.com]. Did Apple just follow a standard? Incredible!

    (Yes, I'm not following the USB spec there by in turn using a USB cable to supply the 5V and not negotiating over its data lines. I didn't feel like grabbing a dedicated 5V PSU for the shot, so sue me.)"""

    http://marcansoft.com/transf/iphonechg.jpg

    ok ??? :D no need for resistors, only 5.3V MAX and d+ and d- shorted
    2
    but smt is wrong on your custom setup, voltage ??

    EDIT: i just measure the original charger and it has no resistance between the data and power pins.

    I think i know what could be wrong, when you plug in the Tab and it says not charging, how many volts have you got at that time ?

    The original charger is very good because when it not charging the tab it has 5.3x volts but when you plug it in it lowers to 4.8x V Max and that is very good ! most chargers tend to lower much more (bad quality or just not powerful enough) and that is what causes the not charging messages on the tab or other devices.

    Well i rest my case on this.
    1
    Hi. I've solved the problem of using other chargers with GT.
    Like Apple, Samsung used a little trick with their chargers.
    To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.

    Usb pinout:
    gnd d- d+ 5v

    To work you must short d+ and d-.
    From 5v use a 33k resistor to d+/d-.
    From gnd use a 10k resistor to d+/d-.
    If you have multimeter you should obtain ~4v between 5v and d+/d-; and ~1v between gnd and d+/d-.
    I tested it and it's working.
    To charge your GT with any usb charger you have to make a little adapter.

    How can you do that? You need an extra device adapter? Please explain.
    1
    USB Charger

    This is what worked for me.

    Items Needed:

    USB Extension Cable
    33k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-1129)
    10k-Ohm Resistor (Shack Part No. 271-006)

    Steps:

    1. Cut USB Extension Cable in half, lets name the 2 halves, the half you will plug into the power suppy will be called "Cable A" and the half that you plug into the Galaxy Tab Data Cable will be called "Cable B"

    2. On 'Cable A" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, eliminate Green and White on this cable only as it will not be needed, leaving you with only the Red and the Black Cables

    3. On "Cable B" strip outer plastic to expose all wires within, this should leave you exposing all 4 wires

    4. On "Cable B" strip both the Green and White wires and join thes 2 wires with the 2 resistor ends (you should be using the resistor ends that have the red band with these wires), these can be joined by either soldering or just twisting together.

    5. Strip Red wire from both cables and join together with the 33k-Ohm Resister (this will be the larger of the 2 resistors and should also be the end with the Gold Band) and as well join these together with solder or just twisting together.

    6. Repeat the above process with the Black wires and 10K-Ohm Resistor.

    7. No finally use Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing to cover all your work.

    This worked using it on a Champtek 5v 2.1a USB Car Charger and Home Charger. Also worked with iPhone charger. Also works with Original Galaxy Tab.

    Hope this helps out.