AAWireless - General discussion and support

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Genebaby

Senior Member
Dec 11, 2013
770
102
This behaviour with that other brand of phones is not headunit dependant, and I do drive a VAG vehicle. What the other people are experiencing with MUI OS phones doesn't occur with Samsung. Any issue you're having is something else.
 

Genebaby

Senior Member
Dec 11, 2013
770
102
I went for a few trips in the GTI this morning and everything was great again in terms of AAW starting up on the screen, responsiveness and dropout free. I did think stop/start was fixed at the 2.0 FW but will see again maybe in 2.1.

The one issue that has been there for a long time is the Assistant being mute, and it happened again. First drive all good. Go into a store for a few minutes and second drive the Assistant can't be heard.

That's my only issue at the moment.
 

1qazwsx4

Senior Member
Sep 19, 2011
612
350
New Zealand
One again to everyone with passthrough issues or in general having connection issues... Do the following and it will fix majority of issues.

Step zero: update your AAW to the latest firmware - if you've got issues connecting, there may be bug fixes that help.

Step one: DISABLE passthrough mode in your AAW app settings. Now
reset your AAW device using the small pinhole on the side of the device (hold for approx 5 seconds and you'll see the LED change/stop flashing etc so you'll know when it's reset)

Step two: WIPE YOUR ANDROID AUTO DATA on your device (in settings, search for android auto)

Step three: Clear your headunits Bluetooth connection to your phone.

Step four: Plug in your device to headunit and setup android auto.

Step five: Disconnect your phone and alter the android auto device settings to enable wireless AA (and other desired changes)

Step six: Now plug in your AAW device and set it up and connect (if it doesn't connect, simply open your Bluetooth connections and do it manually)

Step seven: Congrats, you're running AAW without passthrough mode and can now alter the settings within the AAW app.
 

worldonfire

Member
May 19, 2022
16
0
Yesterday noticed very weird behavior.

Connection worked ~5-10 minutes and then dropped. And then aawireless started "bootlooping". Headunit showed to choose Android Auto or Mirrorlink (it did not restore previously chosen android auto like usual). Stayd ~10-20 sec like so and then lost again the connection. And it did not manage to show android auto even when I clicked to "android auto" on headunit. And this loop remained to the end of my drive. After few hours started another drive. At first it worked some time and after first drop, it started same "bootloop" again.

I don't know if it may be connected with enabling passthrough mode day before (because regular dongle mode still very unstable and trying different settings still...)
 

Snirpo

Senior Member
Jan 23, 2007
378
445
Yesterday noticed very weird behavior.

Connection worked ~5-10 minutes and then dropped. And then aawireless started "bootlooping". Headunit showed to choose Android Auto or Mirrorlink (it did not restore previously chosen android auto like usual). Stayd ~10-20 sec like so and then lost again the connection. And it did not manage to show android auto even when I clicked to "android auto" on headunit. And this loop remained to the end of my drive. After few hours started another drive. At first it worked some time and after first drop, it started same "bootloop" again.

I don't know if it may be connected with enabling passthrough mode day before (because regular dongle mode still very unstable and trying different settings still...)
Strange indeed, can you send in a bug report via help and support --> bug report? Please inform me if you did, then I can see what's happening :)
 

Tony7533

Member
May 21, 2022
5
1
Disable your VPN, if you have one. If you're using mobile data, try downloading the update separately over wifi then connect back up to AAWirelss and perform the install. If the download fails on wifi, then switch to mobile data.

If you still have problems, post info about what stage it's failing and the error you're getting.
Loading is ok. The update process is interrupted by restarting the device.
 

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Snirpo

Senior Member
Jan 23, 2007
378
445
Loading is ok. The update process is interrupted by restarting the device.
You can try to update via another power source (laptop/power adapter). Some cars actively repower the device when AA is killed (which we do when starting OTA). In firmware 2.1.0 we removed the killing of AA, which will solve these issues.
 
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worldonfire

Member
May 19, 2022
16
0
Strange indeed, can you send in a bug report via help and support --> bug report? Please inform me if you did, then I can see what's happening :)
As I can understand "bug report" has to be initiated manually, like start driving, then enable bug report, if problem appears, then stop and send right?

Does bug report work when passtrough is enabled (as this problem I described, was when passtrough was enabled).

Today morning disabled passtrough, but still constant connection drops. Should I try to send bug report with passtrough enabled or disabled or both?
 

rodmoore

Member
May 24, 2022
5
0
Just been back out and tried anything I could find to see if it made a difference.
So far nothing, just same connect then almost instant disconnect.
Tried:
1.Disabling Adaptive Battery
2.Turned off mobile network
3.Forgot my home wifi network incase it was trying to relog into that
4.Turned off "Turn on Wifi automatically" option in wifi preferences.
5.uninstalled the Wifi analyser i did have installed

Happy to try anything anyone else can throw at me.
 

Snirpo

Senior Member
Jan 23, 2007
378
445
As I can understand "bug report" has to be initiated manually, like start driving, then enable bug report, if problem appears, then stop and send right?

Does bug report work when passtrough is enabled (as this problem I described, was when passtrough was enabled).

Today morning disabled passtrough, but still constant connection drops. Should I try to send bug report with passtrough enabled or disabled or both?
Yes, passthrough is also fine, but the logging is less detailed. In this case it's probably fine though.
 

Snirpo

Senior Member
Jan 23, 2007
378
445
Just been back out and tried anything I could find to see if it made a difference.
So far nothing, just same connect then almost instant disconnect.
Tried:
1.Disabling Adaptive Battery
2.Turned off mobile network
3.Forgot my home wifi network incase it was trying to relog into that
4.Turned off "Turn on Wifi automatically" option in wifi preferences.
5.uninstalled the Wifi analyser i did have installed

Happy to try anything anyone else can throw at me.
Can you possibly send a phone side log? I'll PM you my email address.
You can generate a log via developer settings of the phone: https://support.wizyemm.com/hc/en-us/articles/360059933253-How-to-generate-an-Android-bug-report
 

Aberk

Member
Nov 21, 2007
11
1
I have had an issue since I received the unit but I've delt with it "Device Not Supported" it will launch Android Auto sometimes. Once it throws this error a couple times I am unable to even connect with direct USB to my phone. I have to pull fuses to reset my radio or wait until the next day. I've tried all the different modes and different USB cables. I've updated from 18 to 2.0.0 to 2.0.1 with the same issue. Definitely frustrated and I've sent tickets to support. I am starting to wonder if it's a heat issue as it seems worse the longer I run it or the hotter the day. Can only uninstall and factory reset so many times. Car is 18 Challenger with 8.4 Nav. Phone is pixel 3a xl.

I am having basically the same issue with my 2020 Gladiator and the 8.4 screen, but with an S22. Mine had been working flawlessly since I got it and one morning it just stopped connecting. I am able to get it to connect after factory resets like you, but if I like the truck sit for a few hours and the USB power off, I am back to square one.
 

LKnzw

New member
Oct 17, 2021
2
0
One again to everyone with passthrough issues or in general having connection issues... Do the following and it will fix majority of issues.

Step zero: update your AAW to the latest firmware - if you've got issues connecting, there may be bug fixes that help.

Step one: DISABLE passthrough mode in your AAW app settings. Now
reset your AAW device using the small pinhole on the side of the device (hold for approx 5 seconds and you'll see the LED change/stop flashing etc so you'll know when it's reset)

Step two: WIPE YOUR ANDROID AUTO DATA on your device (in settings, search for android auto)

Step three: Clear your headunits Bluetooth connection to your phone.

Step four: Plug in your device to headunit and setup android auto.

Step five: Disconnect your phone and alter the android auto device settings to enable wireless AA (and other desired changes)

Step six: Now plug in your AAW device and set it up and connect (if it doesn't connect, simply open your Bluetooth connections and do it manually)

Step seven: Congrats, you're running AAW without passthrough mode and can now alter the settings within the AAW app.
These steps worked when connecting for first time in my case, unfortunately. Every subsequent connection it got stuck.
With 1.8 firmware AAW used to work fine without passthrough. Since 2.0.0 the only way to make it work with my headunit is using passthrough.
 

Roy47

Member
Oct 4, 2019
8
1
I use this in passthrough mode were it works flawlessly. Would love to get it working normally so I could have auto focus. Also problem with it running so hot it cuts out the induction charging meaning your back to a cable connection for longer journeys
 
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grac

Senior Member
May 7, 2008
257
54
44
Polanica
Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra
Hello :)

What do these features mean in the app?
 

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Snirpo

Senior Member
Jan 23, 2007
378
445
As I can understand "bug report" has to be initiated manually, like start driving, then enable bug report, if problem appears, then stop and send right?

Does bug report work when passtrough is enabled (as this problem I described, was when passtrough was enabled).

Today morning disabled passtrough, but still constant connection drops. Should I try to send bug report with passtrough enabled or disabled or both?
Checked it, definitly seems like the device is fully rebooting. Like in fully going back to solid green, blinking green, blue. Can you confirm this?
 

Snirpo

Senior Member
Jan 23, 2007
378
445
I am having basically the same issue with my 2020 Gladiator and the 8.4 screen, but with an S22. Mine had been working flawlessly since I got it and one morning it just stopped connecting. I am able to get it to connect after factory resets like you, but if I like the truck sit for a few hours and the USB power off, I am back to square one.
That sounds very odd. Does the device actually not boot anymore in these cases? I mean does the LED stay solid green? If so, it's most likely defective. If not, there's something else going on.
 

Top Liked Posts

  • 2
    "%d" will take the first 32 or 64 bits (depending upon the CPU architecture) of the parameter (fixed point, floating point, graphic data, music data, whatever), interpret it as a fixed point integer, & display it. The only reason that the "%d" is displayed, is if the parameter wasn't even provided in the call to sprintf().

    That's a coding error. Perhaps a variable name for the parameter was originally provided, but when the progress bar was implemented, the variable definition was removed. This would then fail compilation, so the sprintf() call was modified to remove the variable name, with the idea that the sprintf() call would be fixed later.

    This is all pure speculation, & assumes a C/C++/C#/Java source code base.
    It's exactly that, param was missing. Has nothing to do with progress indicator though, progress indicator has been in there since the beginning :) Param missing has also been in there since the beginning, no body noticed apparently.
    1
    I'll check. We've been having some backend issues lately, so that's probably the cause. The sprintf thingy is probably a side effect of that.
    I've noticed that " % %d %" flashes briefly at the beginning of every update actually, so unless fixed with the last app updates is likely still an issue somewhere. 🙂
    1
    It's in the spot where the percentage is calculated/displayed. My guess is there's an initial value of nul/100 or something that %d can't display.
    "%d" will take the first 32 or 64 bits (depending upon the CPU architecture) of the parameter (fixed point, floating point, graphic data, music data, whatever), interpret it as a fixed point integer, & display it. The only reason that the "%d" is displayed, is if the parameter wasn't even provided in the call to sprintf().

    That's a coding error. Perhaps a variable name for the parameter was originally provided, but when the progress bar was implemented, the variable definition was removed. This would then fail compilation, so the sprintf() call was modified to remove the variable name, with the idea that the sprintf() call would be fixed later.

    This is all pure speculation, & assumes a C/C++/C#/Java source code base.
  • 7
    I got bored today, so I thought I make a mock up how the AAWireless app could look like :D When swiping t he car picture could change if you want to connect to annother device/car :D

    View attachment 5645393 View attachment 5645397
    Haha nice! I'll pass it on to our UI/UX designer :) We have some UX changes in the pipeline, but it doesn't have the highest prio right now as you can imagine.
    We made some changes in firmware 2.1.0 which means we don't need these dreaded USB modes anymore. The plan is to ship devices in passthrough + dongle mode, to make it work natively, like the MA1, by default.
    Then we are going to hide away the settings in a sort of advanced settings menu, because all these settings are nice, but people don't read/understand what they do, stuff stops working and then our support has to handle it. Hardly anyone uses these settings, for example, dpi change, the most used feature, is only used on 1 percent of all devices.
    Bassicly we are KISS'ing it, but still keep advanced settings for well... You guys :)
    5
    @everyone

    For feature requests or issues, please use: https://github.com/cpebit/aawireless-issues/issues/new/choose

    I getting really hard to follow this thread. Possibly I already forgot some requests of some people. Need a bit of structure. We will try to fix issues one by one from GitHub.
    4
    Regarding the broken day / nightmode cycle:

    I also have this problem, and I read a few days ago that it was due to a combination of updated Google Maps and Android Auto.

    The combination which should work:

    Android Auto: 7.5.621344
    Google Maps: 11.31.1

    You finde all these old versions on apkmirror.com, or similar sites.

    Didn't have the time to check this out myself.

    I had this same problem. Found out it woud be caused to 11.31.1 and upwards. Found the solution on Google Maps Help.

    I installed Maps 11.35.0 beta (from apk mirror) and all seems to work well again. My AA is level 7.7.622134 (from play store).​

    Tried a lot of different variations, but my conclusion is that Maps from 11.33.1 is the culprit.
    4
    I've been happily using AAwirelsss in my Kia Stinger, but I do have a few notes on my specific installation that others might find helpful.

    Instead of using the built in start / stop detection, I made a Y cable that hooks up the USB data lines and ground to my head unit, but power is pulled from a cigarette lighter USB adapter. I don't know if this is safe on all cars, but it worked on mine.

    I have quite a few devices in my car I need to share internet with, and I do not want to buy an extra hotspot., so I had to make a few tweaks on my phone to make my phone's hot spot play nice with AAwireless. In the past I simply had a macrodroid script set up so that when my bluetooth connects to the car, it started my phone's hot spot.

    Unfortunately, the limited wifi connection to AAwireless seems to confuse my phone's hotspot, and it won't share any internet once connected to AAwireless.

    I found the trick was to to have Macrodroid enable my hotspot, then disable wifi, forcing the hot spot to share my cellular data connection, then reenable wifi, and script connecting to AAwireless manually.

    The AAwireless password is the SHA-1 of the device name in upper case.

    Note: AAwireless does currently support connecting through a hot spot, but only a hot spot that isn't also your AAwireless phone. Support for connecting via your phone's built in hot spot is eventually coming, but for now the method I use above has worked well for me.
    Sounds very complex :) I'll build this feature into the next version of the app, possibly this week. Care to test?
    3
    @Snirpo

    Why don't you use a Y-cable? Data plugs into the USB and electric power from the cigarette lighter plug.
    By this you can check the voltage on the cigarette lighter plug. Is it 12.x Volts, you know the engine is off. Then you wait for a timeout of 2 minutes after the phone disconnected and turn off AAWireless. As soon as the voltage is 14.x Volts, you know that the engine is running and turn AAWireless on. You could sell this as an addon cable for people who need this.

    Another solution is to make it based on vibrations/accelerations. The early bluetooth handsfree sets used a similar way to check if the door was opened. I don't know if there is a sensor on the board.

    Another idea is to carefully check how stable the 5V from USB is during engine start as the ICs have to control the output voltage based on the input voltage (input voltage should drop during engine cranking). I guess you will see a voltage control behavior. I think it will drop for a short time and then go over 5V until the controller sets the 5V stable. And here you can start AAWireless. As soon as the phone disconnects keep a long enough timeout of 5 minutes or so to make sure that noone tries to reconnect. Then you can turn off AAWireless. You could sell this as an addon cable for people who need this.

    These are just some ideas...
    While I do like these ideas technically. From an UX perspective I don't know.

    Right now already we get complaints AAWireless is difficult to setup (while in reality it really isn't), compared to for example the MA1, this would complicate it more. I have seen a lot of support tickets, and for non-tech these things are just very hard to understand. "Why do I need an extra cable?!"

    I think for the car's which have an always on USB port (Dodge RAM/Jeep) we seem to have a proper device controlled solution now (in beta).
    For other cars which keep their USB port powered for just a while after turn off its trickier, but even then the phone controlled way works for most. What's left is the edge cases, where we have to think about how to handle those.
  • 40
    This thread is dedicated for AAWireless users.

    AAWireless is a device which allows you to transform your existing wired Android Auto compatible unit into a Wireless Android Auto unit.

    General chat, experience sharing and community support should be expected as well as support from the developers of the product: @Snirpo and myself.
    16
    I just want to leave a big THANK YOU for the developers! You invented a great product and do a great job here.

    Anyone who has ordered the product knows that it is a crowdfunding project, which may also have teething problems. I find it cheeky to get upset about problems, even though they are dealt with promptly here. What more should the distributors do than react to the problems here and offer solutions?

    I also have problems with the device, but I was helped quickly. Even if it takes a few days.

    Dear team: Keep up the good work!
    15
    We fixed the "VW Headunit crashing on skipping tracks" issue now completely. Confirmed it's a bug on the HU side, latency makes it worse. We will probably push a new firmware by the end of this week.
    I will also submit a bug report to Google, cause they can fix/workaround this issue as well for cabled users.
    14
    Hello. What's new in 1.5?
    A full changelog for each release would really be appreciated :)
    Thanks for all the hard work!
    Yes, I'll write a full changelog next week from 1.0.0 to 1.5.0 and put it on GitHub + add a link in the app.
    14
    I've already waited patiently for delivery 3 months more than expected - I ordered In April and was coming in June but now that's looking like October. Now I read on the indiegogo forum that people in the UK are being charged an additional €27 by the Royal mail as the UK is now not in the EU.

    Hi Emil!
    Just received my AAWireless, and will plug in and test tonight. Love the packaging, looks great! However… Since it was shipped from Hong Kong I was forced to pay a rather substantial import fee and duties on this bad boy. I was under the impression that they would be shipped from within the EU? Is it stands now I’m EUR 27,00 poorer :(
    2 2
    https://www.indiegogo.com/individuals/24534862
    Emil Borconi-Szedressy 2 days ago
    PROJECT OWNER
    Looks like you are in the UK which is outside EU and also there is no way to pre-pay taxes with shipping company any more either....


    This is a crazy. An additional $10 was already taken for delivery and it was meant to ship from the EU. I suspect the units have been shipped by Royal Mail / Dutch post. The Royal Mail rips off people in the UK because they add another £11 in admin fees on top of the 20% VAT even though goods up to £135 should be exempt.
    See https://www.gov.uk/government/publi...s-goods-sold-to-customers-from-1-january-2021

    So not only has VAT been charged coming into the EU from China, it has also been charged coming into the UK ON TOP of the VAT already paid in the EU.

    This is just rubbish. What the guys need to do is either ship it from Hong Kong which can cost £0.20 (there are hundreds of chinese ebay and aliexpress sellers doing this already
    See http://www.vatfraud.org/blog/stop-s...ons-universal-postal-union-upu-terminal-dues/
    The $10 postage already taken should then be refunded.

    The other way round it is send the item from Hong Kong and to mark the item as a gift and providing it is below £39 there is NO VAT to pay and NO Royal mail admin fee. Actually as the original product was $57 - roughly £41.25 This wouldn't be a crime seeing as we have had to wait soo long. This could also mean the $10 delivery could be refunded

    The other way is to ship it via fedex and state the ex-vat cost coming from china and then add 20% vat that the developer should be paying to the UK HMRC.

    Sadly if that doesn't take place, EVERYONE IN THE UK will feel ripped off because of the poor delivery and poor choices made by the developers.

    Cheers
    Disgruntled in the UK

    First of all, your item wasn't shipped yet since in the June batch, so you could have not payed anything for shipping. Secondly, UK is outside the EU, there was a vote about this in 2016, so it doesn't matter if the package comes from EU or from HK or from US, it is treated the same, it's an import. If we import it from HK to EU, we will pay import VAT on the product, then when we send it to UK, we claim back that VAT and we should pay VAT in UK, since there is no more free trading between EU and UK.

    Up till recently there was a nice option, to pay VAT and Import duty up-front, when you ship to the UK, but this has been changed and now they requires business outside UK to register with HMRC and do HMRC feeling even if they are residing outside UK, a lot of red tape. Since crowdfunding is not a sale, we can still ship the units to UK, but not sure if we will be able to after the IndieGoGo campaign.

    We are also a EU registered company so we cannot (and will not take advantage) of any loop-holes in systems to sell at ridiculously / unrealistically cheap prices.

    About the user who paid 27 euros, it turned out that user is living in DK, but provided the address as UK so his package traveled the wrong way, hence the extra duties and surcharges.

    Not aware of other users from UK having to pay anything additional when they received the package.