AAWireless - General discussion and support

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Genebaby

Senior Member
Dec 11, 2013
597
71
In the 2020 GTI I have:
Device: 5NA035045F
Hardware: H55
Software: 1367

This is the 9.2" screen

In the 2019 Polo:
Device: 3Q0035824C
Hardware: 724
Software: 0890

This is the 8" screen

The GTI was at VW recently and I did ask them to check for updates on the infotainment and they said it was up to date.

Would be great to find out if that's true and if I can do it myself like the maps.

Also, I checked the other AAW device again and this time it got the 1.20 update. Haven't used the car in over a week so only checked now.
 

Marshy33

Senior Member
Nov 28, 2015
125
29
In the 2020 GTI I have:
Device: 5NA035045F
Hardware: H55
Software: 1367

This is the 9.2" screen

In the 2019 Polo:
Device: 3Q0035824C
Hardware: 724
Software: 0890

This is the 8" screen

The GTI was at VW recently and I did ask them to check for updates on the infotainment and they said it was up to date.

Would be great to find out if that's true and if I can do it myself like the maps.

Also, I checked the other AAW device again and this time it got the 1.20 update. Haven't used the car in over a week so only checked now.

I'm pretty sure your GTI has a mib2 High Harmin, which I didn't think had an issue with the headunit fully rebooting? I don't really know about these as they are different to the mib2 standard I have.

Your polo has a Delphi mib2 standard which again I wasn't aware had an issue. I thought it was just technisat (sometimes known as preh)

If you could get me the train versions for both as stated in my last post I can see if there's any updates.
 

speedyg0nz

Senior Member
Dec 6, 2010
159
67
Sony Xperia 1 III
Device part number: 5K7035200L
Hardware: H41
Software: 0478
Train Version: MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0478T

Just to provide the device information for my situation as well. Recall that my unit doesn't reboot, but constantly drops connection (does not appear to be related to audio or cable used) and the AA session usually disconnects as soon as it starts, and never lasts more than a minute. This is on a 2017 Sharan.
 
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Marshy33

Senior Member
Nov 28, 2015
125
29
Device part number: 5K7035200L
Hardware: H41
Software: 0478
Train Version: MST2_EU_VW_PQ_P0478T

Just to provide the device information for my situation as well. Recall that my unit doesn't reboot, but constantly drops connection (does not appear to be related to audio or cable used) and the AA session usually disconnects as soon as it starts, and never lasts more than a minute. This is on a 2017 Sharan.

What version is your AAwireless board? I was having some disconnection issues with V1.0.0, now on v1.2.0 or higher these seem to have gone for the short time I have been using it since the update.

Good to hear you haven't had any reboots on 478, I'm on 475 now its a far more stable than my previous versions. From what I'm aware 475 - 478 is just a minor update to the headunit's bluetooth.

You are on the most up to date software.
 

speedyg0nz

Senior Member
Dec 6, 2010
159
67
Sony Xperia 1 III
What version is your AAwireless board? I was having some disconnection issues with V1.0.0, now on v1.2.0 or higher these seem to have gone for the short time I have been using it since the update.

Good to hear you haven't had any reboots on 478, I'm on 475 now its a far more stable than my previous versions. From what I'm aware 475 - 478 is just a minor update to the headunit's bluetooth.

You are on the most up to date software.
I'm on the first batch of the boards, Backer ID below 200. Updated to V1.2.0 but still having the same issues despite trying different combinations of MTP/Direct, Passthrough, Audio Sink. Also, I got the technicians to update the HU software at the dealership last month, which explains the latest software.
 

Marshy33

Senior Member
Nov 28, 2015
125
29
I'm on the first batch of the boards, Backer ID below 200. Updated to V1.2.0 but still having the same issues despite trying different combinations of MTP/Direct, Passthrough, Audio Sink. Also, I got the technicians to update the HU software at the dealership last month, which explains the latest software.

I have 2 boards the beta version and the production version (Which was also from the first batch). The beta version has been pretty solid for me, but my production board was playing up.

I manually did the DRAM fix on my production board and its far more stable. Even though it may not need it, it wont hurt doing the fix to see if it helps.


To add... I use MTP with passthrough turned off and only Auto Video Focus turned on.
 

Genebaby

Senior Member
Dec 11, 2013
597
71
I'm pretty sure your GTI has a mib2 High Harmin, which I didn't think had an issue with the headunit fully rebooting? I don't really know about these as they are different to the mib2 standard I have.

Your polo has a Delphi mib2 standard which again I wasn't aware had an issue. I thought it was just technisat (sometimes known as preh)

If you could get me the train versions for both as stated in my last post I can see if there's any updates.

I am pretty sure my headunits do not actually reboot, it's AAW that resets at times, when it's asked to do some stuff, and possibly in a certain area. I was driving along there and tried to get an SMS, it all froze and AA was gone, and I have never recalled seeing the VW logo for a full reboot. I'm pretty sure the Mitsubishi unit in the wife's car did do full reboots, but I'm using both our units for now and she can join back in when the third one arrives and maybe things will be better for her.

Here is my full info:

GTI
Device: 5NA035045F
Hardware: H55
Software: 1367
SW Train Version: MHI2_ER_VWG13_P4521_2

Polo:
Device: 3Q0035824C
Hardware: 724
Software: 0890
Software Train Version:MST2_EU_VW_P0890D
 

Demondim

New member
May 4, 2021
1
0
Received my unit a few days ago, plugged in for the 1st time & performed the OTA update today.
Works perfectly.

Car : Seat Ibiza 2018

Thank you AAWireless :D
 

Marshy33

Senior Member
Nov 28, 2015
125
29
I am pretty sure my headunits do not actually reboot, it's AAW that resets at times, when it's asked to do some stuff, and possibly in a certain area. I was driving along there and tried to get an SMS, it all froze and AA was gone, and I have never recalled seeing the VW logo for a full reboot. I'm pretty sure the Mitsubishi unit in the wife's car did do full reboots, but I'm using both our units for now and she can join back in when the third one arrives and maybe things will be better for her.

Here is my full info:

GTI
Device: 5NA035045F
Hardware: H55
Software: 1367
SW Train Version: MHI2_ER_VWG13_P4521_2

Polo:
Device: 3Q0035824C
Hardware: 724
Software: 0890
Software Train Version:MST2_EU_VW_P0890D

That's good to hear they don't fully reboot, adds further confirmation this issue is just with the Technisat / Preh headunits.

Your GTI does have latest software. The polo's latest is 891, which I wouldn't think would be worth the upgrade.
 

Genebaby

Senior Member
Dec 11, 2013
597
71
That's good to hear they don't fully reboot, adds further confirmation this issue is just with the Technisat / Preh headunits.

Your GTI does have latest software. The polo's latest is 891, which I wouldn't think would be worth the upgrade.
Thanks, how do we do the upgrade when it's available?
 

wainy54

New member
Dec 11, 2010
3
0
Upgraded to 1.2.3, after I had applied the patch.
All worked mostly fine.

Firstly the patch worked, had to be spot on 10s holding the button. (This was done prior to the 1.2.3 release)

Update to 1.2.3 took two attempts, first one stopped at 90%. My phone seemed to connect back to my home WiFi. I tried again and it upgraded successfully.

Everything still working fine with the Audi A5 (B9). Audio timestamp and touch limit options applied.

The only thing of note is that sometimes, everything connects then disconnects briefly before reconnecting. Only happens at the start.
 

George234

New member
May 4, 2021
1
0
Hello. I haven't been able to get aa wireless to work yet at all. I'm part of the second batch of aa wireless. Driving a mazda cx5 (2016.5 gt) and using an android 10 samsung s9 plus.

I've done the DRAM patch via Windows 10 with no issues, and just updated from 1.1.0 to 1.2.3 via OTA.

I've disabled blokada. Cleared storage/cache for both the AAwiteless companion app and the Android Auto. I've tried two different cables, the latter being an anker cable that has worked with AA hardwired.

Right now it flashes green and then eventually starts flashing blue. Always says android auto connected under one notification and the n second notification says searching for android auto. This all eventually crashes and starts over again for an infinite loop. I've tried MTP, direct, passthrough, 2.4ghz wifi....

I'm out of ideas, nothing ever loads and just cycles. Please help!!
Hi Charlie, I also haven't been able to get my AAwireless to work since day 1 from the first batch. I have a Mazda CX5 Maxx Sport 2016 using a Samsung Note 20 Ultra.

I haven't applied the DRAM patch to mine. I have been through with support troubleshooting the connection without any luck. I've tried about a half dozen cables that all work with wired AA.

The behaviour of the notifications on your phone are the same as mine, 2 notifications where one states connected and the other searching and continuously loops.

One additional thing to add, I noticed on the head unit that under Entertainment the available connections list USB1 (for AA). This remains greyed/inactive the whole process. Under normal wired AA the connection would be shown as highlighted/active. Seems the AAwireless isn't even being recognised by the head unit (you would suspect the cable, but I have tried many).
 

Snirpo

Member
Jan 23, 2007
25
28
Hi Charlie, I also haven't been able to get my AAwireless to work since day 1 from the first batch. I have a Mazda CX5 Maxx Sport 2016 using a Samsung Note 20 Ultra.

I haven't applied the DRAM patch to mine. I have been through with support troubleshooting the connection without any luck. I've tried about a half dozen cables that all work with wired AA.

The behaviour of the notifications on your phone are the same as mine, 2 notifications where one states connected and the other searching and continuously loops.

One additional thing to add, I noticed on the head unit that under Entertainment the available connections list USB1 (for AA). This remains greyed/inactive the whole process. Under normal wired AA the connection would be shown as highlighted/active. Seems the AAwireless isn't even being recognised by the head unit (you would suspect the cable, but I have tried many).

For some reason the CX5 is very problematic. Odd thing is one of our testers has an Mazda 6 with seemingly the same Headunit (model + version) and it works just fine.
 

sm753

Senior Member
May 1, 2008
253
62
Dallas
Got the OTA for 1.2.3 yesterday. Fixed my issues and so far from testing everything works without issue. Prior to the OTA, it would only connect with passthrough enable and would constantly disconnect and reconnect every couple of minutes. Now just trying to dial in the DPI settings for optimal split screen mode. Thanks to the project team!

2019 Mazda CX-5
Pixel 3a XL
 

Dion.Dube

New member
Apr 3, 2020
3
1
I've got a 2017 Chevy Camaro SS and the AAWireless unit I received (on v1.1.0) works great! My only issue is that it stays powered after I get out of the car (which is a known issue the development team is working on). Other than that, smooth sailing. Thanks for all the great folks sharing their experiences in this thread and thanks to the devs of this awesome project. Been waiting for this since October, it was worth the wait!
I have a 2017 Camaro SS as well and the USB in my car only stays powered for a minute or two after I exit the vehicle, does your behave differently?
 

xxBrun0xx

Senior Member
Jan 1, 2012
2,260
702
CT
I have a 2017 Camaro SS as well and the USB in my car only stays powered for a minute or two after I exit the vehicle, does your behave differently?
Nope that's pretty much it. But it keeps trying to reconnect several times before it gives up. Annoying if you're trying to use your phone right away, but definitely not a deal breaker.

Do you also have to use Pass-through mode on yours to get it to connect reliably? MTP seems to never actually connect in my car.
 

dablessing

New member
Jan 10, 2012
4
0
Anybody have issues flashing the OTA? For whatever reason my app will not update my device. It keep saying update failed.
I had these same issues. Scroll up to my last post, I provided instructions I followed and it worked. It may have also been that my work outlook email account required administrator access, so the security policy wouldn't allow unsecured wifi networks. I turned off the admin access too and did those steps as mentioned and I got it to install to 1.2.3.
 

vizzze

Senior Member
Jan 16, 2011
108
23
Its good to see someone with 3xx software. So far I'm seeing 2xx is very unstable, 4xx whilst not perfect seems best overall. But still too early to give a final verdict.

Unfortunately you cannot got from 2xx to 4xx or in your case 359 to 4xx without "hacking" your unit. All official updates should be start with the same number.

If you can hold down menu for 3-5 second it should bring up a service menu. If you then click on system update and then version. If you let me know what the installed SW train version is, we can see if there is an official update.

Does your headunit have navigation?
Yes it does have the navigation system:
Train version: MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0359T
 

Top Liked Posts

  • 2
    Hello together,
    I received my device (AAWireless-RkHxTOnk) last week.
    I cannot pair the device with my phone (Samsung Galaxy S5, Android 11), because the wifi-connection needs a password. As there was no readme or any other description howto pair the device with the phone, I am unable to use it. The pairing with bluetooth works, but my wifi still needs a password.
    Can anyone help me? Thanks very much in advance.
    Feedler
    @feedler, @sibesaver

    The sequence for connection goes like this. The device powers up and goes through boot, solid green led.

    When boot completes, the device turns on the wifi and bluetooth radios and begins blinking the green led. When the phone sees the device bluetooth radio, the phone creates a connection. Your phone probably does not look for the device bluetooth all of the time, it will only look for paired devices on intervals to save power. That is why the blinking green goes on for some time.

    When a bluetooth connection is fully established between the phone and the device. Android Auto takes over using its own protocol. AA asks the device what Wi-Fi network to use, and the device provides the name and the password to AA. AA then creates a 'private' connection directly from the phone to the device. At this point the bluetooth connection can drop off. The blue flashing led takes over when AA has established Wi-Fi communication.

    At this point AA tries to establish connection to the head unit in your vehicle. Once AA has a completed connection to your vehicle (through the device) the led turns to a solid blue.

    LeRoy
    1
    Anyone???

    Have you tried changing the USB Mode from MTP to Direct?

    I was having the same problems and I tried many settings, the ones below worked best for me:

    I also have a VW Polo (2020, with MIB2.5) and I managed to get AAWireless after a few mods (in the beginnig, it was not working, or taking very long to connect). I will have they listed here, maybe they can help you out:

    If you have a Samsung phone:
    1. Added AAWireless and AndroidAuto to the list of apps that do not sleep (preveting battery saving features from Samsung phones)
    2. Added a Bixby Routine to press the Home button to wake the Wireless connection as soon as the Bluetooth is connected.
    3. Enabled "show network quality info" in Wi-Fi settings

    On AndroidAuto app
    4. Enabled developer settings
    5. Enabled Wifi projection
    6. Enabled request focus on start

    On AAWireless
    7. Enabled Auto video focus
    8. Changed the USB Mode from MTP to Direct.

    The killer change was number 8 for me.
  • 6
    OTA will be rolled out to second batch devices from next week. This will be version 1.2.2 with some specific WiFi related fixes for the second batch devices. We were planning to release this earlier, but that went all a bit sideways...
    All first batch devices should be able to update to 1.2.0. I fixed a bug in the backend few days ago which caused the 1.2.0 not being shown for some. If the update still does not show, please create a support ticket and provide your device name so we can investigate :)
    5
    For all users who have frequent headunit reboots with their VW MIB headunit:

    I noticed that the supplied usb cable was quite loose in the car usb port. A slight touch would disable the connection.

    I then bought a short 30cm USB-IF cable which sits in the USB A port a little bit more snuggly. (My former official VW cable didn't work at all with AAWireless).

    Then I also enabled "Enable Audio Latency Dump" in the Android Auto developer settings.

    Didn't have a single headunit reboot in two weeks now where before it was usually at least once per drive.

    I don't know if it was the cable or the AA setting - or both. But it's surely worth a try if you have frequent headunit reboots.
    5
    Are there guys who would like to test a possible VW/VAG crash fix? Please pass me your device name (AAWireless-xxxxx).
    5
    Some edited thoughts on my settings with AAWireless Connect 1.7.0 that may help someone.

    I have a 10.25 Hyundai head unit. I think that the Wireless Projection function of this unit is the same for KIA and Genesis 10.25 inch head units. This head unit first appeared in 2019 Korean model years and is very flexible when used with with AAWireless.

    Here are the settings in the AAWireless Connect app version 1.7.0 that I use and what also works with my head unit.

    USB Mode I use MTP, but Direct works as well. The head unit responds a bit faster with MTP.

    Passthrough I have it turned off. The head unit works with Passthrough turned on, but DPI, Remove tap restriction, Disable Audio Sink, AutoVideo Focus and Developer mode cannot be processed by AAWireless when on. When on the exact encrypted data conversation is transmitted between your phone and the head unit. When off, AAWireless joins the conversation to inject those Experimental Features.

    Force 2.4Ghz I have it turned off. The 5Ghz channel used is 40. This feature will turn off 5Ghz Wi-Fi in favor of 2.4Ghz Wi-Fi on channel 1.

    WiFi connect timeout I now leave this at the default 20 seconds. For a couple of months after the initial conversion to Android 11, my Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G phone would not connect to AAWireless on the first try. It would always connect on the second try. Samsung fixed their problem with a subsequent update. But while this was a problem, reducing the WiFi connect timeout to 5 seconds really helped.

    Adjust audio timestamp I have it turned off. The head unit also works with it turned on. Turn this on if you notice things out of sync.

    Change DPI I use 130 to see more of the map. Lower numbers make the area of the map shown larger but the text will be smaller. The number 0 will restore the default used by your phone, head unit combination.

    On my head unit, using the number 103 will put Android Auto into wide mode with map and media side by side. But it is still only displayed in the left portion of the screen, and much of the text is too small for me to read.

    Remove tap restriction I turn this on, it helps me with my on phone music collection. The head unit works with this off. Some other head units will not update your GPS map position properly with this option on.

    Disable Audio Sink I have this turned off. Turning this on will make your phone use something else for audio. In my case it is the phone's speaker.

    Auto video focus I have this turned on. This option tells my Infotainment system to switch to Android Auto when AAWireless connects. I don't have to navigate through the screens to get Android Auto up where I can see it.

    Developer Mode I have this turned off. The head unit works with this turned on. An app update will be needed to correct the text. Frankly, I am not sure what is enabled by setting this on, but Emil is sure some of you will know.

    I often use the app with the AAWireless device plugged into a USB A power source, like a power supply or a charging port in your vehicle. The Android Auto traffic going through the device can make app less responsive.

    When an OTA is available, it is better to download the OTA with the AAWireless device powered off and your phone on WiFi. Once the download has completed, turn on AAWireless, link to it again and upload the OTA to the device.

    I use a large microSD card in my phone (Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G) to store my music collection. I play the music with Rocket Music Player. Works very well under Android Auto.

    LeRoy
    4
    Hi All! First of all big thank you for the product, it brings my android auto experience to another level.

    Just one question
    One of the last indiegogo update mentioned upcoming "Connect/disconnect with car" function to prevent connection when car ignition is off, but car usb still has power.

    This is basically my only issue with the device, but can be annoying when I am on the phone and trying to get out of the car.

    I just installed the updated app, but I can't seem to find it. Is it me being lame, or it not implemented yet.

    Thanks a lot, and keep up the great work you are doing!

    Gabor
    We removed it for now, it's not stable enough for the general public. Will be there in version 1.8 of the app.
    We needed to push an new app version with support for OTA updating second batch devices ASAP, so we decided to push an intermediate version. This was all planned two weeks ago, but yeah... That went a bit sideways.
    There will be an Indiegogo update soon with more information.
  • 20
    This thread is dedicated for AAWireless users.

    AAWireless is a device which allows you to transform your existing wired Android Auto compatible unit into a Wireless Android Auto unit.

    General chat, experience sharing and community support should be expected as well as support from the developers of the product: @Snirpo and myself.
    8
    @jahandy

    Here are the LED codes.

    Solid Green, the device is booting, should complete in under 12 seconds. Both the Bluetooth and WiFi are not active until after the boot is completed.

    Blinking Green, the device has activated Bluetooth and is waiting for a WiFi connection from your phone. You will only be able to pair while under blinking green.

    Blinking Blue, the device has fully connected with your phone and is attempting to connect with your head unit via USB.

    Solid Blue, the device is full connected with your phone and the head unit. The first time you connect you may need to set some Android Auto permissions and some head units may also produce prompts for you to answer.

    Red, an error has occurred, the device will attempt recovery after a timeout.

    LeRoy
    6
    Hey all, and thanks so much to the developers for bringing this great product to life!

    I just wanted to share my experience with the setup process because I had a rocky start and maybe someone with similar issues finds it useful. Please don't yell at me if most of it has already been posted! ;-)

    Car: Nissan Leaf MY19 / Phone: Samsung Galaxy S9 (One UI 2.5, Android 10)

    Open Android Auto for phones and activate wireless mode:
    The basic prerequisite is to enable wireless projection in the Android Auto for phones app. So if there's no Android Auto app in your app drawer, first download the app, and enable wireless projection in its settings. If that setting isn't there, activate developer mode by tapping the version number at the bottom of the settings several times. In the menu on the upper right enter developer settings and activate the setting for enabling wireless projection. Return to the main settings, find the new wireless setting and activate it, too.

    Connect to AAWireless via Bluetooth and starting of Android Auto:
    First of, I would have liked a little more insight on how to connect to what exactly.

    The AAWireless config app is actually not necessary but provides some troubleshooting options in case the setup is unsuccessful and offers some tweaks for advanced users.

    The regular process as I understand is the following:
    1) Turn ignition on and connect AAWireless via cable to the car's USB port. Nothing happens on the car's head unit just yet.
    2) Connect the phone to AAWireless via Bluetooth.
    3) The phone should receive WiFi-Settings from AAWireless via Bluetooth and then connect to AAWireless' WiFi without any user input.
    4) Android Auto starts automatically on the phone and becomes available on the car's head unit.
    Now the phone stays connected via both Bluetooth and WiFi.
    From now on whenever the phone is near the AAWireless device it will connect to it automatically and thus activate Android Auto on the phone and the car's head unit.

    Throughout my whole setup process I encountered all kinds of LED states: green, red, blue, blinking steadily, constantly lit and whatnot. Frankly I just ignored the LED because without an official legend I find if futile to try and decipher the meanings.

    No Android Auto after successful Bluetooth connection:
    My first problem arose right after initiating the Bluetooth connection to AAWireless on my phone. Nothing would happen afterwards.
    So I followed the steps outlined in the FAQ:
    When connected via Bluetooth to AAWireless I opened the AAWireless config app which would take a while to read the settings from the device and sometimes nothing would happen. I unplugged, replugged, disconnected, unpaired and re-paired A LOT.

    Finally, I got a working connection by selecting Direct for USB mode and enabling Passthrough mode. After saving and re-plugging the device Android Auto would magically appear on my phone and car.
    But - just once.

    Stops working:

    Now, after having had one successful connection I wanted to test if it works reliably. Thus I unplugged AAWireless for a minute and plugged it back in. The result: again my phone connected via Bluetooth and nothing else happened.
    I tried all kinds of stuff, like deleting the app caches, uninstalling Android Auto, unpairing etc. I got it working again from time to time but not reliably.
    To add insult to injury my husband's OnePlus 3T started Android Auto effortlessly right. away. without. any. hassles. whatsoever. over. and. over.

    So I factory reset my phone!
    I know, no one wants to hear this but it actually helped. I've never done a reset in the 2.5 years I've had my phone and I dreaded it. But after all this time, 200 apps, 2 major Android updates and a lot of general tinkering I didn't have to coerce myself too hard. After resetting the S9 I could easily initiate the connection via Bluetooth, it would connect to WiFi and start Android Auto. Over and over.

    No internet

    Then I ran into the next major problem: the dreaded no internet because WiFi problem. My phone is set to connect to the internet via the cell network in case WiFi is unstable. I also tried the setting in the phone's developer options which keeps the phone connected to mobile data all the time. Both settings didn't change the fact that even though the status bar showed a 4G icon, Google couldn't be reached in Android Auto.

    The solution is another brain melter for me. When the phone informed me that WiFi data was unstable I must instinctively have tapped 'Keep WiFi'. This actually kills mobile data and forces all data requests through the non working WiFi connection! As stupid as it sounds: just ignoring the popup keeps both mobile data and WiFi active while choosing an option will sabotage wireless Android Auto. This is clearly Google's fault because they obviously forgot to code an exception for Android Auto to keep it from throwing this error.

    Now AAWireless seems to work as it should.

    One more thing I had to learn even before going wireless: Samsung's power saving settings can mess up your phone's GPS in Android Auto. It took me a while to figure out that one thing power saver does is it stops the GPS when the phone screen is off. It makes no exception for Android Auto. Thus I could use Maps and Waze on the phone but as soon as I was on Android Auto it would just show me an approximate location and 'jump' from street to street as it only used cell tower data for positioning.

    So, good luck to those who face issues, enjoy your wireless Android Auto to those who got it and got it working and a huge thanks to the team who made AAWireless!
    6
    OTA will be rolled out to second batch devices from next week. This will be version 1.2.2 with some specific WiFi related fixes for the second batch devices. We were planning to release this earlier, but that went all a bit sideways...
    All first batch devices should be able to update to 1.2.0. I fixed a bug in the backend few days ago which caused the 1.2.0 not being shown for some. If the update still does not show, please create a support ticket and provide your device name so we can investigate :)
    6
    I tried again later and still have the same issue with the same settings. Not sure why this happens.
    @DevAuto @vizzze

    I solved my problem !!! Hope it helps you vizzze, and others who experience bad location accuracy / zoom behaviour with Waze.

    Do not activate the tap limit bypass in the experimental features !

    I figured out it is not really just deactivating the limit, but makes the system think the car is stopped. Then GPS location is not accurate, and moreover, Waze doesn't work really well. Google maps seems to handle it better but still, GPS location is still approximative.

    Once this option is deactivated, the experience is actually flawless. Waze is showing acutal speed, GPS location is accurate, zoom behaves normally.

    @DevAuto , IMHO it would be useful to add a disclaimer about this when activating this feature, even if is an experimental one. What I understand here is 100% of the users using the tap limit bypass will experience a bad GPS behaviour, so I'm pretty sure you are going to receive new requests regurlarly.
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