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AAWireless - General discussion and support

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Snirpo

Senior Member
Jan 23, 2007
115
155
Hopefully they're monitoring this thread and will provide an update.
There's nothing sketchy about it :) Actually the address you're sending it too is one of the guys on this forum and one of our testers. We haven't really had the time to look into a "professional" return process. It's ok for now, cause we don't have that many defective units. If you didn't receive a replacement yet, please contact support, the guys will help you.
 
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mpressive6

Member
Apr 11, 2021
7
3
There's nothing sketchy about it :) Actually the address you're sending it too is one of the guys on this forum and one of our testers. We haven't really had the time to look into a "professional" return process. It's ok for now, cause we don't have that many defective units. If you didn't receive a replacement yet, please contact support, the guys will help you.
Thank you for the reply and I don't believe anyone was suggesting anything sketchy. I've sent two emails that have gone unanswered since last week to the individual on your team who originally reached out to me. What else would you like me to do. Please advise. Love the product. Thanks.
 

Genebaby

Senior Member
Dec 11, 2013
700
86
I found a solution for my problem.
1) On the 5Ghz band: I wrapped the whole AA Auto unit into aluminum foil that acts as a Faraday cage to screen rf signals. The 5Ghz signal between the mobile phone and the aa wireless was still strong enough to ensure proper operation. All outside interference were screened. This resulted into a 1000% improvement of the problems I experienced. I now use the unit that way and only get about 0.1% breakups. Will improve the faraway cage even more. I think the wifi might be over sensitive.
2) On the 2.4 Ghz band: Nothing help there. Not even the Faraday cage. I still experienced the occasional breakup. I looked at the signal again and found the following: The carrier bandwidth is only 20Mhz. Most 2.4Ghz wireless equipment works on 40Mhz as default. The reduced carrier bandwidth can be a factor here. Doubling the carrier width to 40Mhz should resolve the problem. To be tested if it can get implemented.
Wow, that's cool, I never thought of that. I will try that on mine. As long as it works on 5Ghz I'll be happy to have it work smoothly all the time.

Do you have a pic of your device wrapped up?
 

bjevers

Senior Member
I found a solution for my problem.
1) On the 5Ghz band: I wrapped the whole AA Auto unit into aluminum foil that acts as a Faraday cage to screen rf signals. The 5Ghz signal between the mobile phone and the aa wireless was still strong enough to ensure proper operation. All outside interference were screened. This resulted into a 1000% improvement of the problems I experienced. I now use the unit that way and only get about 0.1% breakups. Will improve the faraway cage even more. I think the wifi might be over sensitive.
2) On the 2.4 Ghz band: Nothing help there. Not even the Faraday cage. I still experienced the occasional breakup. I looked at the signal again and found the following: The carrier bandwidth is only 20Mhz. Most 2.4Ghz wireless equipment works on 40Mhz as default. The reduced carrier bandwidth can be a factor here. Doubling the carrier width to 40Mhz should resolve the problem. To be tested if it can get implemented.
This worked for me too, and I'm using 5ghz on a first batch device. There was a spot I drive by all the time that I would lose connection, but not anymore. Wrapped it in aluminum foil and all is good, not one skip. So maybe the case should have some type of shielding in it? Wish the case would pop open so I could maybe line it on the inside because right now it looks pretty crappy. At least it works though.
 
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Snirpo

Senior Member
Jan 23, 2007
115
155
This worked for me too, and I'm using 5ghz on a first batch device. There was a spot I drive by all the time that I would lose connection, but not anymore. Wrapped it in aluminum foil and all is good, not one skip. So maybe the case should have some type of shielding in it? Wish the case would pop open so I could maybe line it on the inside because right now it looks pretty crappy. At least it works though.
If you really want to do that, it's pretty easy to open actually. Just put something in between the bottom and top part and it's open. But it's quite an interesting observation for sure, we'll pass it on to the factory.
 

HansWursT619

Senior Member
Jan 11, 2011
106
16
If the disconnects are indeed caused by external interference and not by the cable, that would be fascinating.
I will try that aluminum foil thing :p Might look a bit sketchy though.
 

andrelotter

Member
May 31, 2021
5
0
Wow, that's cool, I never thought of that. I will try that on mine. As long as it works on 5Ghz I'll be happy to have it work smoothly all the time.

Do you have a pic of your device wrapped up?
Foil Faraday Cage.jpg
 

Goto20

New member
Aug 17, 2015
3
0
I've searched the thread but couldn't see an answer - I have a generic Android head unit (that supports wired Android Auto - the brand is A-Sure) - I bought the AAwireless on a bit of a punt - as half-expected, the headunit doesn't recognise the AAwireless device. Before I give up on it, are there any settings that might help the headunit recognise the device? Thanks.
 

Snirpo

Senior Member
Jan 23, 2007
115
155
If the disconnects are indeed caused by external interference and not by the cable, that would be fascinating.
I will try that aluminum foil thing :p Might look a bit sketchy though.
Well external interference would mean is would only drop out at certain locations. We know this is a problem in 5Ghz mode and are looking into how to fix it (probably by quite simply changing the channel). I have a spot here in the NL where it fully drops out, so when I can find some time I'll play a bit with the hostapd settings. Sucky thing is: we use 4 types of WiFi chips right now, so I have to check for all of them :(
 

andrelotter

Member
May 31, 2021
5
0
I figure if you open it up and wrap the insides, either the casing, or the electronics, it shold do the same?
Please don't concider wrapping the electronics inside unless you are a tech know-how. The alluminium will short circuit the electronics causing irrecoverable damage to the unit as well as the usb port on the head unit. Rather get a nice small little box and package the wrapped aa wireless inside that until the design team comes with a working solution.
 

Mystic7777

New member
May 12, 2011
1
0
Samsung Galaxy s10 + Volvo S60-2. Phone connects to the AAwireless just fine, over the Bluetooth, however when it tries to connect over the WiFi it fails, the message is smth related to "insecure wifi network". Any ideas how to fix this?
 

Genebaby

Senior Member
Dec 11, 2013
700
86
Please don't concider wrapping the electronics inside unless you are a tech know-how. The alluminium will short circuit the electronics causing irrecoverable damage to the unit as well as the usb port on the head unit. Rather get a nice small little box and package the wrapped aa wireless inside that until the design team comes with a working solution.
Gotcha, makes sense, thanks.
 

bjevers

Senior Member
I'm going to get some foil tape and wrap the inside of the case, see how that goes.
I opened the case and covered the board with masking tape, then wrapped it with aluminum foil. I did not wrap around the front where the USB C connector, reset button, and LED are. I then just put it in the case pushing the pegs in the 4 corners through the aluminum foil. So far, it's working just as well was the external wrapping was. My first attempt didn't work where I just put a layer of foil on the bottom and a layer on the top. Wrapping it was necessary.
 
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1qazwsx4

Senior Member
Sep 19, 2011
478
277
New Zealand
Hmmmm I'd rather wait for a fix instead of covering my device - I haven't checked to see if they get warm or hot but wrapping it up could end up doing more harm than good imo. Granted - I haven't had any issues with stutters or disconnections. For those that have tried using both network settings (5 vs 2.4) have you tried keeping the phone right next to the device or tried using a different device to see if you still have the stuttering or disconnecting issues? Seems a little odd that only a few AAwireless boxes are effected by external wifi while driving about. Maybe we need to start posting what phone/android version, what car/year and our batch number to help Devs work things out
 

shadowcaster3

New member
Aug 6, 2021
1
0
1) On the 5Ghz band: I wrapped the whole AA Auto unit into aluminum foil that acts as a Faraday cage to screen rf signals. The 5Ghz signal between the mobile phone and the aa wireless was still strong enough to ensure proper operation.
With frequencies like this foil will re-radiate signal. You may wish to connect it to the real ground to make it work. Signal power is not what makes the biggest impact, noise to signal ratio is what matters. And SNR is as good as phone and aawiress antennas design permits. If you want wireless signal to be more stable - remove noise (which can creep via power lines) and improve signal (better antenna)
 

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  • 2
    Reset was going to be my next step too. I'll try to get it to send some logs first. 👍
    I'm stopping the rollout for now. We don't have that many reports of this issue, but it needs some investigation.

    BTW Can you verify if it's still on 1.7.0? After a few failed boots it falls back to the previous partition with the previous firmware.
    1
    Mine runs like before on 1.7, probabl driving it again today so will have more use to check against.
    1
    Anybody else find after the 1.7.0 firmware update the device will sometimes not power on with the vehicle? It'll stay black (i.e. no LED). Unplugging USB and replugging seems to work, sometimes only on the second or third try.

    I'm running pretty basic settings, only 140 DPI and Auto focus over the defaults, Hyundai Elantra 2018, device batch #7004.

    Hadn't physically touched the device or changed any settings other than accepting the 1.7.0 update, then briefly trying Start/Stop out again since I was hoping it might have been improved in 1.7.0, so that should rule out USB issues at least.
    Yes, mine the same. Since updated to 1.7, the device is not power on everytime i start the car, need to unplug/plug back. Mine is all default setting.

    Any setting that i should take note off to prevent this?
    1
    Anybody else find after the 1.7.0 firmware update the device will sometimes not power on with the vehicle? It'll stay black (i.e. no LED). Unplugging USB and replugging seems to work, sometimes only on the second or third try.

    I'm running pretty basic settings, only 140 DPI and Auto focus over the defaults, Hyundai Elantra 2018, device batch #7004.

    Hadn't physically touched the device or changed any settings other than accepting the 1.7.0 update, then briefly trying Start/Stop out again since I was hoping it might have been improved in 1.7.0, so that should rule out USB issues at least.
    Same here, but unplug/plug doesn't work: I had to reset everything and re-do the setup to make it work but I don't have yet a full feedback.
    Weird thing is that after the update everything was ok until the same evening...
    1
    Anybody else find after the 1.7.0 firmware update the device will sometimes not power on with the vehicle? It'll stay black (i.e. no LED). Unplugging USB and replugging seems to work, sometimes only on the second or third try.

    I'm running pretty basic settings, only 140 DPI and Auto focus over the defaults, Hyundai Elantra 2018, device batch #7004.

    Hadn't physically touched the device or changed any settings other than accepting the 1.7.0 update, then briefly trying Start/Stop out again since I was hoping it might have been improved in 1.7.0, so that should rule out USB issues at least.
    No led at all is odd. Means the kernel doesn't boot up. Can you try to send some logs via the app?
  • 5
    @Snirpo
    when are feature improvements and new features going to be tackled? It was several months back that you said that they would be tackled after the new version of the start/stop feature was released but we are still waiting for this. Surely Gen2 has been resolved now.
    Gen2 has not been resolved yet, we are very close but not there yet. That's why we are producing 16k Gen1 units now (with a lot of effort to actually get components), to fill the gap and finally get off Indiegogo.
    Gen2 is a huge risk for us, we don't want to mess it up. We are planning to produce Gen2 in large quantities (20k+) batches. If we mess up a 20k batch of devices we can bassicly pack up and go.
    We already felt the pain of messing up a batch (batch 2) and this was only one of 6k units.
    I'm sorry it might seem like we are not doing much, but in the background a lot is going on, not only technically.
    Features will come, and they will come this year. But I cannot give any short term deadlines anymore.

    On the app side, if you want to test bleeding edge builds you can join here: https://appdistribution.firebase.dev/i/5196d378c8e122d7

    I might also set up the same thing for the board-side. Only there it's a bit trickier, because of the chance of "bricking" the device.
    2
    Reset was going to be my next step too. I'll try to get it to send some logs first. 👍
    I'm stopping the rollout for now. We don't have that many reports of this issue, but it needs some investigation.

    BTW Can you verify if it's still on 1.7.0? After a few failed boots it falls back to the previous partition with the previous firmware.
    2
    Posted via Indiegogo and thought I would post here too. Glad to hear you’ve managed to move forward with production again. I’m not asking for an ETA – more of a timeline, do you have an idea when there will be updates to the firmware/app for those who have received their devices? I understand you want to get devices shipped but if you are amongst the group that has bugs/issues with the current firmware, this device is pretty much being used as a paperweight. Once again, I'm not trash talking this device because I love it while it works but some transparency on the development side would be nice since we only hear about the manufacturing side on Indiegogo
    1
    2018 Mazda CX-5, AA capable headunit, firmware 70.00.335 (NA N region)
    Moto Z4 with Android 10.
    AAwireless updated to 1.5.0.

    Even with passthrough mode enabled, I've *never* been able to get AAwireless to work. What settings are you Mazda folks using that it's working for you? What headunit firmware revisions and regions?

    Under non-passthrough mode, it always does the "Enable Android Auto / not responding" dance cycle (even the very first time, it's never worked even once).

    Under passthrough mode, the headunit doesn't seem to think anything is connected at all; no popups or other messages.

    Tried all USB connection modes (saved twice and unplugged/replugged to make sure the setting change took effect; it doesn't always seem to save the change across reboots in my observation). Android's own USB settings are adb ("USB debugging") enabled; default to "No data transfer" (though I suspect these are irrelevant).


    (Sigh, can't update the headunit for the moment. It seems that Mazda nuked the one place I saw that had the 74.xx.xxx update, so for the moment I can't update the thing without paying $$$ to a dealership for the Great Privilege of them plugging in a USB stick and pressing a half dozen buttons. [PMs accepted on this point...])

    **EDIT!** After so much desperation, factory reset the headunit, cleared the AA app's data, reverted to stock version, re-updated to Play Store version, set AA up from scratch again... it finally works. I'll just crawl away and scream into a pillow and hope it stays working :LOL:
    1
    Did you get anywhere with the DPI and the split screen on your Pioneer HU?
    Yes, I've set it to 100 and I have split screen with both wireless and plugged in.
  • 29
    This thread is dedicated for AAWireless users.

    AAWireless is a device which allows you to transform your existing wired Android Auto compatible unit into a Wireless Android Auto unit.

    General chat, experience sharing and community support should be expected as well as support from the developers of the product: @Snirpo and myself.
    15
    We fixed the "VW Headunit crashing on skipping tracks" issue now completely. Confirmed it's a bug on the HU side, latency makes it worse. We will probably push a new firmware by the end of this week.
    I will also submit a bug report to Google, cause they can fix/workaround this issue as well for cabled users.
    14
    Hello. What's new in 1.5?
    A full changelog for each release would really be appreciated :)
    Thanks for all the hard work!
    Yes, I'll write a full changelog next week from 1.0.0 to 1.5.0 and put it on GitHub + add a link in the app.
    14
    I've already waited patiently for delivery 3 months more than expected - I ordered In April and was coming in June but now that's looking like October. Now I read on the indiegogo forum that people in the UK are being charged an additional €27 by the Royal mail as the UK is now not in the EU.

    Hi Emil!
    Just received my AAWireless, and will plug in and test tonight. Love the packaging, looks great! However… Since it was shipped from Hong Kong I was forced to pay a rather substantial import fee and duties on this bad boy. I was under the impression that they would be shipped from within the EU? Is it stands now I’m EUR 27,00 poorer :(
    2 2
    https://www.indiegogo.com/individuals/24534862
    Emil Borconi-Szedressy 2 days ago
    PROJECT OWNER
    Looks like you are in the UK which is outside EU and also there is no way to pre-pay taxes with shipping company any more either....


    This is a crazy. An additional $10 was already taken for delivery and it was meant to ship from the EU. I suspect the units have been shipped by Royal Mail / Dutch post. The Royal Mail rips off people in the UK because they add another £11 in admin fees on top of the 20% VAT even though goods up to £135 should be exempt.
    See https://www.gov.uk/government/publi...s-goods-sold-to-customers-from-1-january-2021

    So not only has VAT been charged coming into the EU from China, it has also been charged coming into the UK ON TOP of the VAT already paid in the EU.

    This is just rubbish. What the guys need to do is either ship it from Hong Kong which can cost £0.20 (there are hundreds of chinese ebay and aliexpress sellers doing this already
    See http://www.vatfraud.org/blog/stop-s...ons-universal-postal-union-upu-terminal-dues/
    The $10 postage already taken should then be refunded.

    The other way round it is send the item from Hong Kong and to mark the item as a gift and providing it is below £39 there is NO VAT to pay and NO Royal mail admin fee. Actually as the original product was $57 - roughly £41.25 This wouldn't be a crime seeing as we have had to wait soo long. This could also mean the $10 delivery could be refunded

    The other way is to ship it via fedex and state the ex-vat cost coming from china and then add 20% vat that the developer should be paying to the UK HMRC.

    Sadly if that doesn't take place, EVERYONE IN THE UK will feel ripped off because of the poor delivery and poor choices made by the developers.

    Cheers
    Disgruntled in the UK

    First of all, your item wasn't shipped yet since in the June batch, so you could have not payed anything for shipping. Secondly, UK is outside the EU, there was a vote about this in 2016, so it doesn't matter if the package comes from EU or from HK or from US, it is treated the same, it's an import. If we import it from HK to EU, we will pay import VAT on the product, then when we send it to UK, we claim back that VAT and we should pay VAT in UK, since there is no more free trading between EU and UK.

    Up till recently there was a nice option, to pay VAT and Import duty up-front, when you ship to the UK, but this has been changed and now they requires business outside UK to register with HMRC and do HMRC feeling even if they are residing outside UK, a lot of red tape. Since crowdfunding is not a sale, we can still ship the units to UK, but not sure if we will be able to after the IndieGoGo campaign.

    We are also a EU registered company so we cannot (and will not take advantage) of any loop-holes in systems to sell at ridiculously / unrealistically cheap prices.

    About the user who paid 27 euros, it turned out that user is living in DK, but provided the address as UK so his package traveled the wrong way, hence the extra duties and surcharges.

    Not aware of other users from UK having to pay anything additional when they received the package.