Themes / Apps / Mods [APP][No Root Required] Modified Google Camera 8.4.300 v1 beta3 by MWP

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Credits to the developers of the modified GCam project. Please donate to them if possible to keep the development going.



After using it daily on my Pixel 2 XL it is now confirmed working on the Pixel 6.



There are alot of custom options to take that perfect shot available for this modified version, as time passes there will be more releases on the main page on the same site.



Enjoy!






Detailed info I found on Google for the app:



What is the lib patcher?
Libpatcher - is a custom setting where you can set all the settings to your liking

Radius Temporal changes the graininess of the image by affecting noise, the higher the image is more blurry and less noise, the lower the more noisy, but more detail

Tone Curve is where you can adjust dark points, white points, shadows, highlights. It is recommended to enable and leave the default values or tweak them (advanced users)

Sharpness allows you to control the sharpness of the image. Zoom in for low-light shots, and zoom out for selfies.

Luminance Noise Reduction is what controls the “graininess” in images caused by high ISO. Decrease it to get more detail at the expense of high noise, or increase it if the noise is unacceptable to you

Color Noise Reduction: Controls color spots. There is usually no need to adjust it as this will not improve the quality, but you can increase it slightly if you see colored spots in the dark. Too much chroma noise can cause a decrease in saturation. Also known as color noise. Be careful with this setting it can mess with the fine details of an image.

Contrast settings allow you to control the contrast of the image. Increase it if you want darker shadows, and decrease it to make it brighter is the general idea. This is again a personal preference

Saturation is what allows you to control the saturation of the image. Increase it if you want more saturated colors in your photos. Obviously decrease if your HDR is getting too saturated. This is again a personal preference

Now there are some advanced settings. These affect the morphological processing. Naturally thats a very basic overview. I took the course while finishing up my engineering degree. It was difficult stuff past the basic level. I wont get into what these settings do beyond a decent generalization.

Warning to all these settings can absolutely have a drastic negative effect on your images. A lot of testing would be necessary by the end user
Luminance noise reduction levels

Level 1 (Detail) changes the photo very slightly, slightly smoothing out small elements in the image.

Level 2 (Rough Surfaces) seriously alters the image by smoothing grain

Level 3 (Edges) doesn’t change much. Smooths edges slightly

Level 4 (Smooth Surfaces) radically alters the image by making it posterized by smoothing out large areas of the same color. Avoid magnification over 1.0

Color noise reduction levels

Level 1 (Detail) fine textures, but the same applies to rough details

Level 2 (Rough surfaces) fine textures, but the same applies to rough details

Level 3 (Edges) Edges are mainly defined by the contrast between one object and another

Level 4 (Smooth Surfaces) Smooth surfaces are generally uniform areas of the image. Like wallpaper with few small details



Tips:
If you notice a certain color of spots on your low light photos. Check its frequency spectrum. Look where its at in the photo and go to the specific wavelet reduction setting and tweak it. See if you can remove it. More often than not these settings are used to improve astrophotography, low light and high detail images.

My sensor has more higher frequency color noise than others. Ive seen some XDA users where they had to turn down denoise. It really all depends on a lot of stuff. Its fun to tweak and squeeze out what you can.

YMMV
 
Last edited:

biTToe

Senior Member
I can do most, if not all, of this stuff in GIMP/Photoshop, more easily, with finer control (to include undo), and on a much larger screen

All most of us really want (I can't be the only one) in a "great" camera app is total control of:
1. Shutter speed
2. "ISO"
3. Aperture
4. Lens selection

just like my Galaxy S8's "pro mode"
Everything else can be "fixed" in post.

-But then I'm just an old guy with camera and a darkroom
 
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I can do most, if not all, of this stuff in GIMP/Photoshop, more easily, with finer control (to include undo), and on a much larger screen

All most of us really want (I can't be the only one) in a "great" camera app is total control of:
1. Shutter speed
2. "ISO"
3. Aperture
4. Lens selection

just like my Galaxy S8's "pro mode"
Everything else can be "fixed" in post.

-But then I'm just an old guy with camera and a darkroom
Yeah I totally get that, photo editing software is better on a computer and is more fine tuned.

This is an easy way to get more customized results. I've seen way too many complaints about the built in app being too restricted and plain.

This adds additional functionality and is my go to application when taking photos for years now.
 
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enerGy

Senior Member
Jul 17, 2015
1,527
1,258
Belfast
Google Pixel 6 Pro
Credits to the developers of the modified GCam project. Please donate to them if possible to keep the development going.



After using it daily on my Pixel 2 XL it is now confirmed working on the Pixel 6.



There are alot of custom options to take that perfect shot available for this modified version, as time passes there will be more releases on the main page on the same site.



Enjoy!






Detailed info I found on Google for the app and recommended settings:



What is the lib patcher?
Libpatcher - is a custom setting where you can set all the settings to your liking

Radius Temporal changes the graininess of the image by affecting noise, the higher the image is more blurry and less noise, the lower the more noisy, but more detail

Tone Curve is where you can adjust dark points, white points, shadows, highlights. It is recommended to enable and leave the default values or tweak them (advanced users)

Sharpness allows you to control the sharpness of the image. Zoom in for low-light shots, and zoom out for selfies.

Luminance Noise Reduction is what controls the “graininess” in images caused by high ISO. Decrease it to get more detail at the expense of high noise, or increase it if the noise is unacceptable to you

Color Noise Reduction: Controls color spots. There is usually no need to adjust it as this will not improve the quality, but you can increase it slightly if you see colored spots in the dark. Too much chroma noise can cause a decrease in saturation. Also known as color noise. Be careful with this setting it can mess with the fine details of an image.

Contrast settings allow you to control the contrast of the image. Increase it if you want darker shadows, and decrease it to make it brighter is the general idea. This is again a personal preference

Saturation is what allows you to control the saturation of the image. Increase it if you want more saturated colors in your photos. Obviously decrease if your HDR is getting too saturated. This is again a personal preference

Now there are some advanced settings. These affect the morphological processing. Naturally thats a very basic overview. I took the course while finishing up my engineering degree. It was difficult stuff past the basic level. I wont get into what these settings do beyond a decent generalization.

Warning to all these settings can absolutely have a drastic negative effect on your images. A lot of testing would be necessary by the end user
Luminance noise reduction levels

Level 1 (Detail) changes the photo very slightly, slightly smoothing out small elements in the image.

Level 2 (Rough Surfaces) seriously alters the image by smoothing grain

Level 3 (Edges) doesn’t change much. Smooths edges slightly

Level 4 (Smooth Surfaces) radically alters the image by making it posterized by smoothing out large areas of the same color. Avoid magnification over 1.0

Color noise reduction levels

Level 1 (Detail) fine textures, but the same applies to rough details

Level 2 (Rough surfaces) fine textures, but the same applies to rough details

Level 3 (Edges) Edges are mainly defined by the contrast between one object and another

Level 4 (Smooth Surfaces) Smooth surfaces are generally uniform areas of the image. Like wallpaper with few small details

My Settings
Now I have done A LOT of testing on my phone, with my case (affects light angles coming in slightly) and just about everything I can to nail these in for my device and my tastes so please dont just copy and paste. This is more of an informative post.

Libpatcher Switches:

Force System Noise Model (I tweaked the tweaked one but I cant post that code (license issues)) ON

Disable Dehave ON

Sharpness: 1.13

Saturation: 1.21

Global Chroma Denoise: Set to wavelet

Global Luma Denoise: Set to wavelet

Wavelet Luma Denoise Settings:

Level 1 - 0.875

Level 2 - 0.875

Level 3 - 1.0

Level 4 - 1.125

Wavelet Chroma Low Frequency Denoise Settings: (556 THz - 792 THz) 89

Level 1 - 1.0

Level 2 -1.0

Level 3 - 1.1

Level 4 - 1.2

Wavelet Chroma High Frequency Denoise Settings: (403 THz - 555 THz) 89

Level 1 - 0.875

Level 2 - 1.0

Level 3 - 1.0

Level 4 - 1.3

Those work far better for me and ive noticed my pictures have less sports

Tips:
If you notice a certain color of spots on your low light photos. Check its frequency spectrum. Look where its at in the photo and go to the specific wavelet reduction setting and tweak it. See if you can remove it. More often than not these settings are used to improve astrophotography, low light and high detail images.

My sensor has more higher frequency color noise than others. Ive seen some XDA users where they had to turn down denoise. It really all depends on a lot of stuff. Its fun to tweak and squeeze out what you can.

YMMV
Will post occasional pics displaying some of the modded apps performance on occasion
Why didnt your wavelet settings work for me
Factors that affect settings
Your phone
When it was made
The chip itself
The silicon in your sensor
Ambient weather conditions
The image processing firmware on the Pixel Visual Core
Other properties of silicon unique and intrinsic to your device
FAQ
Why are your colors listed as frequencies?

Light is an electromagnetic phenomenon and as an RF engineer its easier for me to refer to spectra as a frequency but one could easily refer to it in wavelengths or color (but color wont be accurate as thats up to perception)
What are wavelets?

A wavelet is how we define a center frequency and some deviation. We use wavelets because a color is not just one frequency its a range see here : Spectral color - Wikipedia 10 Its also an entire subset of mathematics used by anyone who works with the spectrum (i.e RF engineers, optical engineers (fiber stuff), biomedical engineers). They are helpful because we can take the average of a color spectrum (say blues) and convolve it with the signal to find the center frequency of blue or the blues in a subset (image). It basically the magic behind the IM processing math.

Just tried a sample of my night time “light bleed” mode and its okay. It still need more tweaking but heres an example of what tweaking your denoise settings can do. The image is far better than a stand night photograph (even with some longer exposure)

Keep in mind you wont remove all the noise. In fact it sometimes takes noise to remove or smooth noise (dithering). Dithering is a process where we add a bit of noise to a data set in an attempt to constructively perturb the signals we want to convolve, isolate and amplify over the average.
See the problem with copying stuff off Google without knowing what your doing is that you have added all this and the cam doesn't have the majority of it so you are misleading users dude. You sure you have mentioned the correct cam version?
 
See the problem with copying stuff off Google without knowing what your doing is that you have added all this and the cam doesn't have the majority of it so you are misleading users dude. You sure you have mentioned the correct cam version?
You can try it if you'd like or keep using the built in one. I've been using this version on my Pixel 6.

There are also other builds on the same site.

Honestly I don't even use the stock one that came with the phone. Not too many options or settings to adjust vs this Mod.

These guys have been doing this for years I've personally used it on my Pixel 2 XL since I can remember.

I'm very confident they have the knowledge and experience to release this Mod to the public.
 
Last edited:

enerGy

Senior Member
Jul 17, 2015
1,527
1,258
Belfast
Google Pixel 6 Pro
You can try it if you'd like or keep using the built in one. I've been using this version on my Pixel 6.

There are also other builds on the same site.

Honestly I don't even use the stock one that came with the phone. Not too many options or settings to adjust vs this Mod.

These guys have been doing this for years I've personally used it on my Pixel 2 XL since I can remember.

I'm very confident they have the knowledge and experience to release this Mod to the public.
What do you mean? I didn't say anything about the guy who builds it or him not having knowledge lol, I know him. You just replied with something totally different to what was questioned dude, doesn't make sense. Many of the options and values you gave are not in this cam as you can see below thus why I'm asking have you posted the correct version. Also I'm no noob as you might be suggesting lol I've plenty of experience with GCam on many many devices creating configs for personal use and for public.
 

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What do you mean? I didn't say anything about the guy who builds it or him not having knowledge lol, I know him. You just replied with something totally different to what was questioned dude, doesn't make sense. Many of the options and values you gave are not in this cam as you can see below thus why I'm asking have you posted the correct version. Also I'm no noob as you might be suggesting lol I've plenty of experience with GCam on many many devices creating configs for personal use and for public.
We are both Senior Members I know. I should edit the posting as the settings were taken from another source online.

Let the users try it and keep using it if they like it. Let him know he is an amazing guy and I hope he gets alot of well deserved donations.

Thank you for your work on the configs as well.
 
Last edited:

novaq72

New member
Apr 21, 2020
3
2
It's a pity, I don't have a problem with not saving pictures (P6P). But I use a gallery other than Google Photos, so maybe that's why. The stable version by MWP has a lot more settings options than the beta version, I think. But I use the MWP app mainly because of the names of the photos, which the built-in version has, politely speaking, 'awkward'.
 

novaq72

New member
Apr 21, 2020
3
2
Thank you @novaq72

I tried out the last stable version and my P6 was not saving the pictures. I have been running without problems on 8.4.300 v1 beta3.

If anyone has any issue from the OP definitely try out the one above.
It's a pity, I don't have a problem with not saving pictures (P6P). But I use a gallery other than Google Photos, so maybe that's why. The stable version by MWP has a lot more settings options than the beta version, I think. But I use the MWP app mainly because of the names of the photos, which the built-in version has, politely speaking, 'awkward'.
 
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    Credits to the developers of the modified GCam project. Please donate to them if possible to keep the development going.



    After using it daily on my Pixel 2 XL it is now confirmed working on the Pixel 6.



    There are alot of custom options to take that perfect shot available for this modified version, as time passes there will be more releases on the main page on the same site.



    Enjoy!






    Detailed info I found on Google for the app:



    What is the lib patcher?
    Libpatcher - is a custom setting where you can set all the settings to your liking

    Radius Temporal changes the graininess of the image by affecting noise, the higher the image is more blurry and less noise, the lower the more noisy, but more detail

    Tone Curve is where you can adjust dark points, white points, shadows, highlights. It is recommended to enable and leave the default values or tweak them (advanced users)

    Sharpness allows you to control the sharpness of the image. Zoom in for low-light shots, and zoom out for selfies.

    Luminance Noise Reduction is what controls the “graininess” in images caused by high ISO. Decrease it to get more detail at the expense of high noise, or increase it if the noise is unacceptable to you

    Color Noise Reduction: Controls color spots. There is usually no need to adjust it as this will not improve the quality, but you can increase it slightly if you see colored spots in the dark. Too much chroma noise can cause a decrease in saturation. Also known as color noise. Be careful with this setting it can mess with the fine details of an image.

    Contrast settings allow you to control the contrast of the image. Increase it if you want darker shadows, and decrease it to make it brighter is the general idea. This is again a personal preference

    Saturation is what allows you to control the saturation of the image. Increase it if you want more saturated colors in your photos. Obviously decrease if your HDR is getting too saturated. This is again a personal preference

    Now there are some advanced settings. These affect the morphological processing. Naturally thats a very basic overview. I took the course while finishing up my engineering degree. It was difficult stuff past the basic level. I wont get into what these settings do beyond a decent generalization.

    Warning to all these settings can absolutely have a drastic negative effect on your images. A lot of testing would be necessary by the end user
    Luminance noise reduction levels

    Level 1 (Detail) changes the photo very slightly, slightly smoothing out small elements in the image.

    Level 2 (Rough Surfaces) seriously alters the image by smoothing grain

    Level 3 (Edges) doesn’t change much. Smooths edges slightly

    Level 4 (Smooth Surfaces) radically alters the image by making it posterized by smoothing out large areas of the same color. Avoid magnification over 1.0

    Color noise reduction levels

    Level 1 (Detail) fine textures, but the same applies to rough details

    Level 2 (Rough surfaces) fine textures, but the same applies to rough details

    Level 3 (Edges) Edges are mainly defined by the contrast between one object and another

    Level 4 (Smooth Surfaces) Smooth surfaces are generally uniform areas of the image. Like wallpaper with few small details



    Tips:
    If you notice a certain color of spots on your low light photos. Check its frequency spectrum. Look where its at in the photo and go to the specific wavelet reduction setting and tweak it. See if you can remove it. More often than not these settings are used to improve astrophotography, low light and high detail images.

    My sensor has more higher frequency color noise than others. Ive seen some XDA users where they had to turn down denoise. It really all depends on a lot of stuff. Its fun to tweak and squeeze out what you can.

    YMMV
    1
    I can do most, if not all, of this stuff in GIMP/Photoshop, more easily, with finer control (to include undo), and on a much larger screen

    All most of us really want (I can't be the only one) in a "great" camera app is total control of:
    1. Shutter speed
    2. "ISO"
    3. Aperture
    4. Lens selection

    just like my Galaxy S8's "pro mode"
    Everything else can be "fixed" in post.

    -But then I'm just an old guy with camera and a darkroom
    1
    I can do most, if not all, of this stuff in GIMP/Photoshop, more easily, with finer control (to include undo), and on a much larger screen

    All most of us really want (I can't be the only one) in a "great" camera app is total control of:
    1. Shutter speed
    2. "ISO"
    3. Aperture
    4. Lens selection

    just like my Galaxy S8's "pro mode"
    Everything else can be "fixed" in post.

    -But then I'm just an old guy with camera and a darkroom
    Yeah I totally get that, photo editing software is better on a computer and is more fine tuned.

    This is an easy way to get more customized results. I've seen way too many complaints about the built in app being too restricted and plain.

    This adds additional functionality and is my go to application when taking photos for years now.
    1
    Hi, I strongly recomend last NOT BETA version of this great app, so Gcam_8.3.252_V2.0c_MWP (https://www.celsoazevedo.com/files/android/google-camera/dev-MWP/) Gcam_8.3.252_V2.0c_MWP
    1
    Thank you @novaq72

    I tried out the last stable version and my P6 was not saving the pictures. I have been running without problems on 8.4.300 v1 beta3.

    If anyone has any issue from the OP definitely try out the one above.
    It's a pity, I don't have a problem with not saving pictures (P6P). But I use a gallery other than Google Photos, so maybe that's why. The stable version by MWP has a lot more settings options than the beta version, I think. But I use the MWP app mainly because of the names of the photos, which the built-in version has, politely speaking, 'awkward'.