Building your own powered usb hub.

would you be interested in having a hub build for you?


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plopper

Senior Member
Dec 7, 2008
102
25
= DIY usb hub for HTC =

== Warning ==

First of all, your using this manual at your own risk, I don't take any responsebilety for your actions.
If you make a mistake you risk blowing up your phone usb port, or even burning out the phone completly.
I have a background in electronics and was age 12 when I did my first hardware mod on a computer.
I knew the risc I was taking when I started this mod, an I accepted it.

The included pictures are just for reference, do not use them as a guide, your board will be different.
If you happen to use the same usb hub, then also use the same connection points.

== Introduction ==

Unlike the Y cable this mod leaves all usb ports available, but it renders the usb hub useless for normal use.
It's gone be purely for use on HTC phones which DO NOT supply power to the usb port, check your phone before you start building.

== The parts ==

For this project we need the following parts.
* 4 port usb hub (this may be a active/powered hub, but those mostly have a to weak powersupply).
* micro usb cable.
* powersupply of 5V and at least 2000mA.
* half a liter of fresh coffee or energy drink.

P1130002.small.JPG

P1200028.small.JPG


== Power ==

A standard usb port of a computer supply's 5V with 500mA, so for a 4 port usb hub we need 4x the current, making the 2000mA.
But as the phone also needs at least 500mA, we need a bit more power, totaling 2500mA, alltho there is some wiggleroom here.
A keyboard/mouse hardly ever need the full 500mA, so we can steal a bit from that.
The powersupply i used gives out 2250mA, and using the above wiggleroom it leaves about 700mA for the phone.

P1130003.small.JPG


== The internals of the hub ==

When we open the usb hub were gone find something like the next picture.
This is my finished hub so ignore the black and red wires for now.
Look for the green and white cables and imagine the red wire above them and the black under them.
The green and white cables are the data cables.
Cut of the standard usb plug from the micro usb cable, and connect the green and white cables to the same points as the original cable from the hub.
If your hub has a connector instead of a cable, the white cable goes beside the red wire (positive), the green beside the black (negative).
This is visible on the pictures.
If you have any doubt, then skip to the next step and come back after it.
Once you have figured out the powerlines this step will become clear.

P1200023.small.JPG


== Finding the power lines ==

Originaly the usb cable powers the controller and sends the left over power to the ports, making the hub able to power low power devices like keyboards and mice.
This is why we have the wiggle room on the power supply.
So first we have to locate the power lines on the board as outlined on the next picture.
Red is the positive path, blue the negative path.
Look for the negative path first and you'll find the positive in no time.
An easy trick is to start look at the usb ports.
You'll see that 1 of the 4 pins is connected to the ground of the port, thats the negative pin/track.
the oposite pin of the 4 is the positive (the data pins are the 2 middle pins).

P1200023.small.powerpath.JPG


== The power protection ==

Now if you look carefully you can see 2 gaps in the positive path (red collor), those are there because of the protection needed when pluging in the external powersupply.
And the fact that the controller gets power from 2 locations.
They are located in the yellow circles on the next picture.

P1200023.small.protection.JPG


== Bypasing the power protection ==

But as the phone doesn't supply any power on the usb port, in fact it needs power, were gone have to bypase (easier then removing it) the protection.
This is fairly easy, just connect the points which normaly go to the usb cable which connects the computer to the points of the external powersupply.
The connector on my hub is located right beside the protection diode on the right side of the board.

P1200023.small.power.bypase.controller.JPG


== Rerouting the power to the phone ==

Next step is to give the phone power in the same way.
To make it easier I used 1 of the usb ports for this.
Safes the hassle to connect 2 cables to the small connection points.

P1200023.small.power.bypase.phone.JPG


== Putting the hub back together ==

Now we can put the hub back into it's casing.

P1200021.small.JPG


== The finished project ==

And we end up with a special usb hub for our phone.
Like it was bought this way.

P1200029.small.JPG
 
Last edited:
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plopper

Senior Member
Dec 7, 2008
102
25
FaQ

Known devices to work which do not supply power to the usb port.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
HD2


Known devices to work which do supply power to the usb port (you need to skip the power bypase to the phone on these devices).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
this list will most likely contain tablets.


Known devices which do not work at all.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Q: I can not find the power path or protection on my hub.
A: Post a high detail closeup of the print of the hub so we can help and draw the path on the photo for you, like in the manual.
But consider the fact that you are getting into a very risky situation, we could be wrong due to a bad picture and you could interpret the photo we draw in a bad way.
I highly recomment that you get help from someone more skilled.

Q: My phone does supply power to the usb port.
A: Do not attach the power cables from the phone usb to the hub, leave it all to the external powersupply.
But remember to tape/isolate the cables to avoid shortings.

Q: I really want to have a hub like this but i'm not capable of building 1.
A: as i got only 4 requests by pm the demand seems to be very little.
but feel free to try and convince me by pm, but pls make it at least 5 hub's.

plopper
 
Last edited:

mf_1

Member
Mar 15, 2008
29
1
Thx for the idea and the detailed information.
Just bought a hub today and will try it within the next days.

But one question:
Is it neccessary to change the powercables to the phone?
I'm not sure, but wouldn't it work only with the 'bypass protection' wires?
With this bypass the old connection points are on the same power level as the new ones? Do I miss something?

regards and thx again

mf_1
 

plopper

Senior Member
Dec 7, 2008
102
25
Thx for the idea and the detailed information.
Just bought a hub today and will try it within the next days.

But one question:
Is it neccessary to change the powercables to the phone?
I'm not sure, but wouldn't it work only with the 'bypass protection' wires?
With this bypass the old connection points are on the same power level as the new ones? Do I miss something?

regards and thx again

mf_1

the protection bypase is indeed enough, but that forces you to stick 2 cables to the small connection points of the original usb cable.
the connections on the usb port are free and mostly they don't even cut off the leads, so you end up with more surface area, resulting in a stronger connection.
on my hub the usb ports are actualy holding the print on it's place, and by using the same length on all the leads (data and power) from the usb cable, and using the usb ports to connect the power makes it less likely that some jerking on the cable breaks/damages the print, also since i picked the 1 which was furthest away.
doesn't change anything on the workings but it's a safer idea.

good luck and have fun building.

plopper
 

mf_1

Member
Mar 15, 2008
29
1
Works great.
I've bought a very small hub and it wasn't easy to find the connection point (only needed the +5V connection), but thx to your description everything works fine.
With ubuntu it was plug & play, now I'm trying WM and android.
regards

mf_1
 

plopper

Senior Member
Dec 7, 2008
102
25
Works great.
I've bought a very small hub and it wasn't easy to find the connection point (only needed the +5V connection), but thx to your description everything works fine.
With ubuntu it was plug & play, now I'm trying WM and android.
regards

mf_1

updated the manual a bit, inserted a trick to find them quicker.
on android you might have to enable the usb host mode in the kernel (like ubuntu's usb_host kernel).
not sure tho, pls inform me if this is true.
we tested it on a android tablet in a shop and that worked out of the box.

plopper
 

mf_1

Member
Mar 15, 2008
29
1
To make it a little easier: gnd should be the same on both +5 areas, so you only need to make 1 connection.

My Hub is a LogiLink USB 2.0 4 Port HUB (UA0003), a very small hub with a 2,0A Power Supply (in Germany available at Conrad electronics for 10€).

Your hint regarding Androids seems to be right, unfortunaly I'm not able to activate it by myself. Maybe one of the developers will built a version sometimes.

Do you have drivers for WM 6.5?
I used Zenos driver without success so far.

Regards

mf_1
 

plopper

Senior Member
Dec 7, 2008
102
25
To make it a little easier: gnd should be the same on both +5 areas, so you only need to make 1 connection.

My Hub is a LogiLink USB 2.0 4 Port HUB (UA0003), a very small hub with a 2,0A Power Supply (in Germany available at Conrad electronics for 10€).

Your hint regarding Androids seems to be right, unfortunaly I'm not able to activate it by myself. Maybe one of the developers will built a version sometimes.

Do you have drivers for WM 6.5?
I used Zenos driver without success so far.

Regards

mf_1

based on our use of the hub you are indeed right, both gnd's should be the same and can be made with 1 connection.
but if the gnd's in both area's are connected by default, then you found a very bad hub.
connection the psu wrongly on a hub like that can have very bad results, smoke out of the computer.
but for our mod. they are perfect, safes a bit of work.

i haven't found any working wince drivers so far.

i'll contact some of the android cooks if they are willing to help with a test.

plopper
 

Mister B

Senior Member
Sep 14, 2006
2,087
386
Ratchada (Bangkok)
Technical opinion on hub choice

Can I use hub like in picture ? have one lying around doing nothing.

No external power supply on hub, but could buy 2.25A power adaptor & wire it to power tracks.
Could use standard built in usb lead with micro USB adaptor plug ?

Want to keep size & weight to minimum as travel a lot.

Could this replace standard HTC charger(1 less plug to carry) or is full charging via a 2A+ power adapter risky !
 

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plopper

Senior Member
Dec 7, 2008
102
25
Can I use hub like in picture ? have one lying around doing nothing.

No external power supply on hub, but could buy 2.25A power adaptor & wire it to power tracks.
Could use standard built in usb lead with micro USB adaptor plug ?

Want to keep size & weight to minimum as travel a lot.

Could this replace standard HTC charger(1 less plug to carry) or is full charging via a 2A+ power adapter risky !

any hub can be used, just some need more or less modifications then others (due to bad design).
to be sure i would need a high resolution picture of the board.

the hd2 has multiple charging mode's.
the standard htc charger is 1 amp, but this doesn't mean it always pushed out that 1 amp.
it can deliver up to 1 amp, the same goes for the external psu you mentioned, just now we have a max of 2.25 amps..
if you worry i suggest you try and keep a close eye on the temperature of the battery.
above 60 celcius the risk of it exploding appears.
personaly i didn't feel a difference in heat on charging on 1 or 2 amps.
another option would be to drain the extra power by hooking up something like an external hdd, those need 1 amp (0.5 amps per usb port, 2 are used on these devices).

plopper
 

Mister B

Senior Member
Sep 14, 2006
2,087
386
Ratchada (Bangkok)
thanks for reply.
What constitutes as bad design for our intended modification ?
Is it not more simple to wire a non external powered hub as it will have no diode circiut to bridge, I'm thinking would only need to tap into power line for external 2A supply & with a micro USB adaptor on original recoil lead it would fit & feed HD2 correctly.
Will strip hub tomorrow if got time, is my rough summary sounding practical from your experience ?
 
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plopper

Senior Member
Dec 7, 2008
102
25
thanks for reply.
What constitutes as bad design for our intended modification ?
Is it not more simple to wire a non external powered hub as it will have no diode circiut to bridge, I'm thinking would only need to tap into power line for external 2A supply & with a micro USB adaptor on original recoil lead it would fit & feed HD2 correctly.
Will strip hub tomorrow if got time, is my rough summary sounding practical from your experience ?

with our intended modification the world turns around.
the best designed hub becomes the worst.
every protection they add, we have to cancel out.
i had the same idea like you, get a non powered hub and connect a psu to it.
but when i unpacked it the power socket appeared.
i wouldn't be surprised if you found the socket painted on the top side of the print and the diodes replaced for bridges.
means less work, hookup 1 random usb port to the psu, replace the plug and done.

plopper
 
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youngdaddytc

Senior Member
Feb 7, 2009
128
12
Rockford, Illinois
hey this is a great idea, but unfortunately for the electrically illiterate it's a bit over our heads. i'd really like to tackle this but im going to have to learn some of the basics first. is there any chance that someone who has made one of these could upload a tutorial vid on youtube? im sure im not the only would who would appreciate it.
 

Robbie P

Senior Member
Feb 8, 2011
5,116
4,017
London
non soldered way?

I have bought a 4 way USB hub which has a usb socket on its input lead. This can be plugged into your PC or into a usb mains charger or usb car charger.
If the input lead is plugged into one of the four output sockets and the lead is cut open and the red and black wires are exposed, a 2A 5v charger can be connected to these wires by twisting together and taping.
This then powers both sides of the hub with 2A supply and by-passes the protection.
It does sacrifice 1 output socket but HD2 +keyboard+mouse= happy Ubuntu
Will this work?
Edit; I have posted a Thread in HD2 Ubuntu Q&A http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1130905 to try for more feedback.
If it does work then thanks should go to Plopper for his hard work in this and on other Fora. (And apologies for any lost business!)
 
Last edited:

Robbie P

Senior Member
Feb 8, 2011
5,116
4,017
London
DOH!
I must have read this thread quite a few times, but I have only just understood what plopper and Mister B were saying in their last posts.
There is no protection in unpowered usb hubs, so no need to bypass it!
I have checked this and it works.
No wonder there have been no replies!
 

plopper

Senior Member
Dec 7, 2008
102
25
I have bought a 4 way USB hub which has a usb socket on its input lead. This can be plugged into your PC or into a usb mains charger or usb car charger.
If the input lead is plugged into one of the four output sockets and the lead is cut open and the red and black wires are exposed, a 2A 5v charger can be connected to these wires by twisting together and taping.
This then powers both sides of the hub with 2A supply and by-passes the protection.
It does sacrifice 1 output socket but HD2 +keyboard+mouse= happy Ubuntu
Will this work?
Edit; I have posted a Thread in HD2 Ubuntu Q&A http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1130905 to try for more feedback.
If it does work then thanks should go to Plopper for his hard work in this and on other Fora. (And apologies for any lost business!)

what you made here is a Y cable.
but i advise that you do solder the wires, this to avoid problems due to the bad contacts.
problems like sparks can do nasty things to any electrical device.

apologies accepted gracefully.
so far 4 have requested a hub, and 1 of those managed to build 1 himself.
thats not enough sadly.
beside that i'm working about 60 hours per week on average, so not much spare time left.

plopper
 
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Robbie P

Senior Member
Feb 8, 2011
5,116
4,017
London
Thanks Plopper,
you may get more business now that DFT and Cotulla have released USB host for WM6.5;)
Good to see you back
 

cms3717

New member
Nov 11, 2012
1
0
powered hub for nexus 12v source

Can I pay you to make me a 4 port hub that uses a 12 volt source? I'm working on an auto project integrating a a nexus 7 into my car stereo
Known devices to work which do not supply power to the usb port.
------------------------------------------------ -------------------------------------------------
HD2


Known devices to work which do supply power to the usb port (you need to skip the power bypase to the phone on these devices).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
this list will most likely contain tablets.


Known devices which do not work at all.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Q: I can not find the power path or protection on my hub.
A: Post a high detail closeup of the print of the hub so we can help and draw the path on the photo for you, like in the manual.
But consider the fact that you are getting into a very risky situation, we could be wrong due to a bad picture and you could interpret the photo we draw in a bad way.
I highly recomment that you get help from someone more skilled.

Q: My phone does supply power to the usb port.
A: Do not attach the power cables from the phone usb to the hub, leave it all to the external powersupply.
But remember to tape/isolate the cables to avoid shortings.

Q: I really want to have a hub like this but i'm not capable of building 1.
A: If there is enough demand i'll build a stack of them.
I have no idea how to handle the posting/shipping of this, so if you can help me on this, then don't hesitate to send me a pm.
For now i still won't build any untill i have it all figured out.
Check back here in a couple day's for more info.

Q: When are you gone start building them?
A: Send me a pm where you request for a hub, and I'll inform you on the details.

plopper
 

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    = DIY usb hub for HTC =

    == Warning ==

    First of all, your using this manual at your own risk, I don't take any responsebilety for your actions.
    If you make a mistake you risk blowing up your phone usb port, or even burning out the phone completly.
    I have a background in electronics and was age 12 when I did my first hardware mod on a computer.
    I knew the risc I was taking when I started this mod, an I accepted it.

    The included pictures are just for reference, do not use them as a guide, your board will be different.
    If you happen to use the same usb hub, then also use the same connection points.

    == Introduction ==

    Unlike the Y cable this mod leaves all usb ports available, but it renders the usb hub useless for normal use.
    It's gone be purely for use on HTC phones which DO NOT supply power to the usb port, check your phone before you start building.

    == The parts ==

    For this project we need the following parts.
    * 4 port usb hub (this may be a active/powered hub, but those mostly have a to weak powersupply).
    * micro usb cable.
    * powersupply of 5V and at least 2000mA.
    * half a liter of fresh coffee or energy drink.

    P1130002.small.JPG

    P1200028.small.JPG


    == Power ==

    A standard usb port of a computer supply's 5V with 500mA, so for a 4 port usb hub we need 4x the current, making the 2000mA.
    But as the phone also needs at least 500mA, we need a bit more power, totaling 2500mA, alltho there is some wiggleroom here.
    A keyboard/mouse hardly ever need the full 500mA, so we can steal a bit from that.
    The powersupply i used gives out 2250mA, and using the above wiggleroom it leaves about 700mA for the phone.

    P1130003.small.JPG


    == The internals of the hub ==

    When we open the usb hub were gone find something like the next picture.
    This is my finished hub so ignore the black and red wires for now.
    Look for the green and white cables and imagine the red wire above them and the black under them.
    The green and white cables are the data cables.
    Cut of the standard usb plug from the micro usb cable, and connect the green and white cables to the same points as the original cable from the hub.
    If your hub has a connector instead of a cable, the white cable goes beside the red wire (positive), the green beside the black (negative).
    This is visible on the pictures.
    If you have any doubt, then skip to the next step and come back after it.
    Once you have figured out the powerlines this step will become clear.

    P1200023.small.JPG


    == Finding the power lines ==

    Originaly the usb cable powers the controller and sends the left over power to the ports, making the hub able to power low power devices like keyboards and mice.
    This is why we have the wiggle room on the power supply.
    So first we have to locate the power lines on the board as outlined on the next picture.
    Red is the positive path, blue the negative path.
    Look for the negative path first and you'll find the positive in no time.
    An easy trick is to start look at the usb ports.
    You'll see that 1 of the 4 pins is connected to the ground of the port, thats the negative pin/track.
    the oposite pin of the 4 is the positive (the data pins are the 2 middle pins).

    P1200023.small.powerpath.JPG


    == The power protection ==

    Now if you look carefully you can see 2 gaps in the positive path (red collor), those are there because of the protection needed when pluging in the external powersupply.
    And the fact that the controller gets power from 2 locations.
    They are located in the yellow circles on the next picture.

    P1200023.small.protection.JPG


    == Bypasing the power protection ==

    But as the phone doesn't supply any power on the usb port, in fact it needs power, were gone have to bypase (easier then removing it) the protection.
    This is fairly easy, just connect the points which normaly go to the usb cable which connects the computer to the points of the external powersupply.
    The connector on my hub is located right beside the protection diode on the right side of the board.

    P1200023.small.power.bypase.controller.JPG


    == Rerouting the power to the phone ==

    Next step is to give the phone power in the same way.
    To make it easier I used 1 of the usb ports for this.
    Safes the hassle to connect 2 cables to the small connection points.

    P1200023.small.power.bypase.phone.JPG


    == Putting the hub back together ==

    Now we can put the hub back into it's casing.

    P1200021.small.JPG


    == The finished project ==

    And we end up with a special usb hub for our phone.
    Like it was bought this way.

    P1200029.small.JPG
    1
    thanks for reply.
    What constitutes as bad design for our intended modification ?
    Is it not more simple to wire a non external powered hub as it will have no diode circiut to bridge, I'm thinking would only need to tap into power line for external 2A supply & with a micro USB adaptor on original recoil lead it would fit & feed HD2 correctly.
    Will strip hub tomorrow if got time, is my rough summary sounding practical from your experience ?
    1
    thanks for reply.
    What constitutes as bad design for our intended modification ?
    Is it not more simple to wire a non external powered hub as it will have no diode circiut to bridge, I'm thinking would only need to tap into power line for external 2A supply & with a micro USB adaptor on original recoil lead it would fit & feed HD2 correctly.
    Will strip hub tomorrow if got time, is my rough summary sounding practical from your experience ?

    with our intended modification the world turns around.
    the best designed hub becomes the worst.
    every protection they add, we have to cancel out.
    i had the same idea like you, get a non powered hub and connect a psu to it.
    but when i unpacked it the power socket appeared.
    i wouldn't be surprised if you found the socket painted on the top side of the print and the diodes replaced for bridges.
    means less work, hookup 1 random usb port to the psu, replace the plug and done.

    plopper
    1
    I have bought a 4 way USB hub which has a usb socket on its input lead. This can be plugged into your PC or into a usb mains charger or usb car charger.
    If the input lead is plugged into one of the four output sockets and the lead is cut open and the red and black wires are exposed, a 2A 5v charger can be connected to these wires by twisting together and taping.
    This then powers both sides of the hub with 2A supply and by-passes the protection.
    It does sacrifice 1 output socket but HD2 +keyboard+mouse= happy Ubuntu
    Will this work?
    Edit; I have posted a Thread in HD2 Ubuntu Q&A http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1130905 to try for more feedback.
    If it does work then thanks should go to Plopper for his hard work in this and on other Fora. (And apologies for any lost business!)

    what you made here is a Y cable.
    but i advise that you do solder the wires, this to avoid problems due to the bad contacts.
    problems like sparks can do nasty things to any electrical device.

    apologies accepted gracefully.
    so far 4 have requested a hub, and 1 of those managed to build 1 himself.
    thats not enough sadly.
    beside that i'm working about 60 hours per week on average, so not much spare time left.

    plopper