FAN installation on PX5

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txesterfield

Member
Nov 8, 2007
40
5
Hello,

I have a 12V computer FAN and I want to install onto my PX5 to cool it. If I connect the fan to the yellow wire (12V) when I turn off the motor, will the fan also turn off? Is the unit only on when the engine is started?

Thank you!
 
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txesterfield

Member
Nov 8, 2007
40
5
Yellow is direct to Battery and always on.
Red is via ignition and only on when ignition s on.

Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16

In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?

thanks in advance!
 

marchnz

Senior Member
  • Nov 26, 2012
    3,450
    695
    wombleton
    Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
    I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16

    In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?

    thanks in advance!

    The quoted article explains connection. Battery drain is not an issue. If unsure, suggest seeking the advice of a reputable installer.
     

    skezza

    Senior Member
    Sep 29, 2007
    1,474
    191
    Finally I don't install the fan unit, temperature tests do not give better results.
    I have another question about the connection of the power supply. I have problemas with keeping the memory of time. I have read this one: http://bbs.xtrons.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=16

    In the post they say to connect the long yellow wire to the battery, but will there be battery drain problems if the unit is connected always? Can I connect it to another 12V car connection?

    thanks in advance!
    Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.

    The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.

    Wire it in, forget about it.
     
    Last edited:

    txesterfield

    Member
    Nov 8, 2007
    40
    5
    Not trying to sound cruel here, but if you're connecting the long yellow wire directly to the battery, why would it drain more than connecting it to another 12V line? You're aware of how electricity works right (or maybe not)? Perhaps you should read up on current draw, direct current etc. Connecting the yellow wire direct to the battery will make no difference. My only suggestion is, if you go via battery rather than another subsystem, you add an extra fuse. Unfused wires are dangerous.

    The yellow wire provides power to the clock and the memory. Nothing more. If you want the memory to be written down to NAND, you can set this in factory settings. Not a bad little hack for those who don't fancy wiring in the yellow wire, but then you might find the deep sleep function is erratic. The clock will still be lost as well, so you'll need that to update either via NTP or GPS. I believe the power consumption is around 10mA. Your average low quality phone charger delivers 1Amp.

    Wire it in, forget about it.

    I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.

    Thanks!
     

    skezza

    Senior Member
    Sep 29, 2007
    1,474
    191
    I was talking to connect the yellow wire to another 12V car connection to avoid carrying the cable to the battery that I have in the trunk. My only doubt was the consumption of the unit if I had it permanently connected, but that doubt has already been resolved. I will look for a pernament 12V near my head unit to connect it.

    Thanks!

    Use your central locking fuse, tap in there. Job done.
     

    wizzsb

    Member
    Feb 14, 2018
    31
    5
    Sonderborg
    Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
    Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
    Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
    theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
    Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.

    So if someone interested theres small "How to"
    I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)

    1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
    IMG_1187.jpg


    2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
    IMG_1195.jpg


    3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.

    4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
    I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
    As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
    IMG_1197.jpg


    5. Done
    IMG_1201.jpg
     

    TT_Vert

    Senior Member
    Sep 11, 2010
    1,807
    230
    Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
    Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
    Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
    theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
    Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.

    So if someone interested theres small "How to"
    I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)

    1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
    IMG_1187.jpg


    2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
    IMG_1195.jpg


    3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.

    4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
    I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
    As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
    IMG_1197.jpg


    5. Done
    IMG_1201.jpg
    I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.

    Dave
     
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    wizzsb

    Member
    Feb 14, 2018
    31
    5
    Sonderborg
    I'd be curious on your results but in reality you are either just pulling in or pushing out hot air constantly. You have no source of cool air so I don't see this doing much of anything for you unless you are pulling in cooler air from somewhere. Heat rises and all you're going to do it saturate the back side of the dash with hot air to the point there is no more cooler air at which time the temp will probably equalize and be no better.

    Dave
    Which app can I use for temperature measuring? ideally with graph possibility (so I can test playing video or so on...)

    Theres ofcourse improvement if air inside is colder than CPU/Amplifier as theres much more heat transfer if air is mooving,
    but if the temperature of air is nearly the same as CPU/Amp, than you are right, but for confirm that I can make a measurement with fan and without. Theres no more hot days in this period in Denmark, so reslts will be only for first case.
     

    TT_Vert

    Senior Member
    Sep 11, 2010
    1,807
    230
    I don't know the best app to be honest. With that said if the air you are blowing over the cpu is same temp as air inside the unit it won't do much. I don't know how hot the air behind a dash can get in summer but my thought is if you have a fan pumping that hot air over the hot internals it will eventually saturate the under dash air and all air will be same temp (Or close to it) unless you have the air recycling under the dash which i don't think it really does much. I could be wrong though.

    Dave
     

    TT_Vert

    Senior Member
    Sep 11, 2010
    1,807
    230
    So after doing some before testing in my 70 deg. F garage I didn't see any need for a fan as I never got over 115F with volume at half. I did notice however my MTCB does seem to slow down on warmer days and In Illinois we have some 100deg days in summer so I decided to do something about it. I went a bit overkill as I was just using what I had. I have a 90mm fan that will be exhausting hot air. I intentionally put it over the CPU to try to draw air right from it. I had an old heatsink/fan from an old video card that was almost the perfect size. Drilled a few holes in it just to ensure I can unscrew the CPU at a later date if I ever need to as I'm gluing this thing to the CPU. Although I suppose if I'm taking it off it's a for a reason and I could just get a different heatsink/fan for the next one. I actually am using a 40MM 24V fan pulled from an old copier or something similar years ago powered by 12V and it is pushing more air than my 12V 40mm fan was. at same voltage so I went that route. TO avoid mix/matching fans I didn't put the 12V fan in as it doesn't move much air but I did drill a hole in case I decide to add one later PLUS I wanted to have enough area for intake air as that 90MM fan moved a TON of air. Probaby too much and it may be too loud but I'll address that when the time comes. Rather than feed from the harness I just probed the bottom of the board where the main plug is an and fed off of that on the PCU. Kapton taped and soldered so we should be all good there. The two fans draw 600mA max between the two but i'm not seeing that much current draw right now. Without further ado here is what I've got right now. Any opinions are welcomed. I plan to put plugs everywhere so I don't have to cut/unsolder if I ever disassemble this thing again.. I'm also going to put a few small heat sinks on a few of the other chips that get warm, particularly the two to the left of the CPU which may be the amp chips. Anyone have any idea which will get hottest during use? Thus far just those two to the right of the cpu get warm.

    Dave

    Dave
     

    LZPRIV

    Member
    Nov 18, 2018
    8
    3
    Cooling the PX5 CPU

    Hi

    I ordered this Aikenuo 25m x 20mm x 0.15mm Thermal Adhesive Tape,High performance Thermal Double Side Tapes Cooling Pad Apply to Heatsink

    Screen-Shot-2018-11-19-at-00-45-17.png


    and that : StarTech.com 1U 60x10mm Socket 7/370 CPU Cooler Fan w/Copper Heatsink & TX3 -

    Screen-Shot-2018-11-19-at-00-44-37.png


    Both are available worldwide on Amazon so try your local amazon. Price may differ though. Cheapest are UK and US

    I put the tape under the copper heatsink and sticked the whole structure to the original PX5 motherboard heatsink.
    Inside the beast:

    20181119-020515.jpg


    20181119-020608-01.jpg


    I connected the fan's power to ground and accessory.

    Temperature readings with CPUZ dropped a good 20° Celsius idling at 30° and rising to 60-65 at full load.

    Idle :
    20181119-015825.jpg


    Loaded with Youtube/Maps/Deezer and some other stuff :
    20181119-020257.jpg
     
    Last edited:
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    LZPRIV

    Member
    Nov 18, 2018
    8
    3
    Fix attachments please.

    Can you explain where to connect fan on board?
    It is not connected on the mainboard.
    As you will see from second picture, I have connected the fan to an extension cable that runs out of the back of the HU through one of the empty holes then wired the cable to the acc and ground.

    It's back in the car now so cannot make picture.

    Ah also, you only have one shot with the tape, it is super uber mega sticky and cures with heat so try to position the copper radiator first before final sticking and aim well as it will be extremely hard to reposition and/or remove unless you unscrew the cpu board to avoid breaking the whole thing !

    And do not forget to remove the metal cpu fixture from the heatsink which means you will need to unscrew the fan to get this metal thing out and screw the fan back
     
    Last edited:

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      Hello,

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      3
      A fan is NOT useless, and to think also.

      Good afternoon all involved,
      at first to say weather condition is important. It not same to use this kind of device in Moscow than in Madrid. Try use a car without fan engine in both places in summer time, you will quick notice the overheating difference. Then cost and quality of material used in the radio/gps device and main design are also important to keep safe of malfunctioning. And rarely these PX5 boards, screens and body cases are state of the art, be default the cheapest possible materials are used.

      Particularly on my device, a PX5 9" screen for Hyundai Kona, I found when outside temperature in Malaga (Spain) reaches +35 Celsius degrees (a nice day can reach +40 at shadow) the screen starts to self-disconnecting randomly, but CPU still alive. Duly noticed the screen cover (made I guess in poor plastic material) came to be untouchable, pain just fingering the screen cover. After one hour, the CPU starts to fail, making some reboot.

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      6. Finally at top-back side of screen case, as I saw in another branded gps screens, I made an air exit. In this case, two 30mm holes covered by two black stainless steel air vents. Fixed with common thermic glue silicone. The only convection air dynamics will not allow the internal case temperature will higher than external, moreover with the fan airflow.
      7. Tested during two months. On sunny days, just the minute after leaving the parking area you can feel the hot air canon if you put your hand on the screen back. And driving against the sun, the whole case temperature is a little hot but not burning like before. No fail, not more screen or device shutdown.

      I attached some shoots of whole process.
      If any question/doubt please reply or email me.
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      optimvs
      3
      Yeah, you guys are prob right. The heatsink is really light, but the vibrations from a moving car could make it bounce a lot and damage the chip...
      I will just replace the thermal pad between the chip and top plate, remount the top plate and attach the heatsinks to this plate.

      I tested temps this weekend, and they were around 80C with music+GoogleMaps. Outside (ambient) temps were around 30C. (under stress was about 95C, but that is not normal use...)
      If it lowers 20C, I'll be happy.

      I will try to post some pics of the procedure when I receive the materials. (it shouldn't be very different from @IloveJapan post, but nevertheless...)
      It should take about 1 month or so...

      Hi again.
      I modded the HU a while ago but didn't have time to post pics/results.

      I bought 2 heatsinks with thermal adhesive. They are 40x40x30 aluminium pieces. They were suppose to go over the cover/heatplate
      I also bought thermal pads They were supposed to go over the chip, between the chip and the cover/heatplate

      When I was disassembling the HU, I found out that the cover/heatplate was glued to the mainboard. (it also had screws, but it had like 4 points of glue around) I didn't want to risk it being loose or fragile, so my initial thought of replacing the thermal pad was a no-go.

      I just cleaned the top of the heatplate really well with alcohol and stuck 1 heatsink to it, in the center of the plate. Although the heatsinks are really light, I didn't want to risk the plate/board becoming loose with vibrations or bumps, so I just installed 1 instead of 2.

      I'm really happy with the results. The temps came down from 80/90C to 45/50C (30C outside) with regular use (music/GMaps/Streaming TV).

      The HU feels snappier, doesn't hang so much and it doesn't become unresponsive

      If anybody wants an easy and really cheap way to lower your temps, I think this has good results.

      Attaching pictures.
      3
      In my opinion a fan installation is not necessary at all.
      Considering that the PX5 is a SoC with a maximum power consumption of 4.5W, so change the stock metal plate (with its low quality thermal pad underneath) with another bigger one is more than sufficient.
      I'm working in this direction.

      I modified a heatsink from an old AMD CPU to not interfere with the chassis, stuck it on the original metal plate, removed the metal plate and bad quality thermal pad from che cpu, bought and waiting for a new thermal pad (because the original thermal pad is not in direct contact with PX5 so thermal compond only is too thin to reuse the metal plate). Then I'll verify results.

      If not enough I will try to modify another heatsink and put in direct contact with the PX5 SoC. No fan is needed in my opinion.

      Last info: Temperature junction of PX5 is 125°C as written in Rockchip datasheet, so high temps (70-80 under full load) are absolutely normal for this kind of SoC
      2
      Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
      Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
      Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
      theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
      Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.

      So if someone interested theres small "How to"
      I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)

      1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
      IMG_1187.jpg


      2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
      IMG_1195.jpg


      3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.

      4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
      I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
      As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
      IMG_1197.jpg


      5. Done
      IMG_1201.jpg
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