FAN installation on PX5

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aysat

Member
Oct 19, 2019
9
2
Hi guys,

We are talking about a 5W chip here only and i see guys adding huge heatsinks without changing any thermalpad or doing some modification on the coreboard heatsink. Not very efficient unless you find out where exactly the heat dissipation is being restricted in the very first place ( or closer to restricted area as much as possible ) which is the thermal pad in this case. You must get rid of it first.

What i did ;

- Removed crappy thermal pad from the chip
- Sanded coreboard heatsink equally to reduce the gap between the chip and the heatsink
- Applied High Performance ( thermal conductivity 5 W/mK ) thermal paste on the chip
- Put an alumina ceramic pad 20x25x0.5 ( thermal conductivity 29 W/mK ) in between the chip and the coreboard heatsink
- Applied same thermal paste between ceramic pad and coreboard heatsink
- Applied same thermal paste between the crappy vga heatsink and the coreboard
- Soldered the fan to the voltage regulator

Never exceeded 80 C under torture tests. Hope this helps.

I will post my results after i drop some posts lol

Regards,
 
Aug 25, 2019
21
13
Munich
Hello,

........yes the gap between the chip and heatsink is the biggest problem - i was very surprised when i disassembled the coreboard!!
No pressure marks on the termalpad - i recognized that immediately.

Sad thing - that makes a great product crappy save up some cents...

After modifying the heatsink "feets" and adding good termalpaste i never had any problem again!

Best regards
 

giouncino

Senior Member
Jun 13, 2019
61
31
Hi guys,

We are talking about a 5W chip here only and i see guys adding huge heatsinks without changing any thermalpad or doing some modification on the coreboard heatsink. Not very efficient unless you find out where exactly the heat dissipation is being restricted in the very first place ( or closer to restricted area as much as possible ) which is the thermal pad in this case. You must get rid of it first.

What i did ;

- Removed crappy thermal pad from the chip
- Sanded coreboard heatsink equally to reduce the gap between the chip and the heatsink
- Applied High Performance ( thermal conductivity 5 W/mK ) thermal paste on the chip
- Put an alumina ceramic pad 20x25x0.5 ( thermal conductivity 29 W/mK ) in between the chip and the coreboard heatsink
- Applied same thermal paste between ceramic pad and coreboard heatsink
- Applied same thermal paste between the crappy vga heatsink and the coreboard
- Soldered the fan to the voltage regulator

Never exceeded 80 C under torture tests. Hope this helps.

I will post my results after i drop some posts lol

Regards,

I stated the same things months ago: a fan is useless on a 5W chip.
 
Aug 25, 2019
21
13
Munich
Hello,

.......but i tried same heatsink mod with and without fan - without fan i had the same issue (no rear cam) some minutes later.

What torture test did you run on your unit?

Best regards
 

aysat

Member
Oct 19, 2019
9
2
i have upgraded the thermal paste to gelid gc extreme and put a full copper heatsink on the internal heatsink and i will post the results ( if system allows me :) )

---------- Post added at 12:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:39 PM ----------

i am also using cpu throttling test to monitor. is there any other apps you suggest ?
 

Barreto

Senior Member
Sep 23, 2007
110
6
Lisboa
Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra
Yeah, you guys are prob right. The heatsink is really light, but the vibrations from a moving car could make it bounce a lot and damage the chip...
I will just replace the thermal pad between the chip and top plate, remount the top plate and attach the heatsinks to this plate.

I tested temps this weekend, and they were around 80C with music+GoogleMaps. Outside (ambient) temps were around 30C. (under stress was about 95C, but that is not normal use...)
If it lowers 20C, I'll be happy.

I will try to post some pics of the procedure when I receive the materials. (it shouldn't be very different from @IloveJapan post, but nevertheless...)
It should take about 1 month or so...

Hi again.
I modded the HU a while ago but didn't have time to post pics/results.

I bought 2 heatsinks with thermal adhesive. They are 40x40x30 aluminium pieces. They were suppose to go over the cover/heatplate
I also bought thermal pads They were supposed to go over the chip, between the chip and the cover/heatplate

When I was disassembling the HU, I found out that the cover/heatplate was glued to the mainboard. (it also had screws, but it had like 4 points of glue around) I didn't want to risk it being loose or fragile, so my initial thought of replacing the thermal pad was a no-go.

I just cleaned the top of the heatplate really well with alcohol and stuck 1 heatsink to it, in the center of the plate. Although the heatsinks are really light, I didn't want to risk the plate/board becoming loose with vibrations or bumps, so I just installed 1 instead of 2.

I'm really happy with the results. The temps came down from 80/90C to 45/50C (30C outside) with regular use (music/GMaps/Streaming TV).

The HU feels snappier, doesn't hang so much and it doesn't become unresponsive

If anybody wants an easy and really cheap way to lower your temps, I think this has good results.

Attaching pictures.
 

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optimvs

Member
Jun 9, 2019
8
4
A fan is NOT useless, and to think also.

Good afternoon all involved,
at first to say weather condition is important. It not same to use this kind of device in Moscow than in Madrid. Try use a car without fan engine in both places in summer time, you will quick notice the overheating difference. Then cost and quality of material used in the radio/gps device and main design are also important to keep safe of malfunctioning. And rarely these PX5 boards, screens and body cases are state of the art, be default the cheapest possible materials are used.

Particularly on my device, a PX5 9" screen for Hyundai Kona, I found when outside temperature in Malaga (Spain) reaches +35 Celsius degrees (a nice day can reach +40 at shadow) the screen starts to self-disconnecting randomly, but CPU still alive. Duly noticed the screen cover (made I guess in poor plastic material) came to be untouchable, pain just fingering the screen cover. After one hour, the CPU starts to fail, making some reboot.

Disassembling the unit, I found some facts. First one, the small design of case, the cooling air convection is ridiculous. Too small air intakes or holes, neither for CPU neither for screen are in safe condition. And moreover I found the screen chips temperature are higher than CPU most time. So the system came in few minutes very hot and unstable, it does not matter the low power consumption, because there is not effective way to cooling in extreme conditions. So any extra cooling system, manual or automatic, passive or active; is NOT useless.

1. Taken dremel and diamond disc for made a 80mm hole for a classic PC fan. I bought the Tacens Aura II, very quiet specs, only used two pins.
2. I set an PC molex connector (male and female) to power the fan, so easy for remove the unit, and screwed a PC dust/fan filter over the external case.
3. The power line for fan is taken from car IGN1 (Hyundai Kona radio connector "B", #33 pink cable +12v) and not from ACC (classic red one), land/mass whatever available. I did not take from ACC because already is taken for supply the radio and screen. If you charge a 3rd device for ACC, the power will fail for some of them. Already tested and confirmed this issue.
4. Inspected the CPU, retired the original thermal silicone piece and replaced by "Adwits" thermal conductive silicone pads 6.0 W/mk 1.0mm.
5. Added directly over original PX5 CPU sink; two 50x25x5mm sinks (space with internal fan is adjusted). Directly placed sinks with conductive silicone pads. Then for security, employed "Visbella RTV" silicone hi-temp gasket maker, fixing new sinks to original PX5 sink, avoiding extra screws or weight. I must say this thermal paste has similar behavior and drying to Sikaflex 256 polyurethane car glass adhesive sealant.
6. Finally at top-back side of screen case, as I saw in another branded gps screens, I made an air exit. In this case, two 30mm holes covered by two black stainless steel air vents. Fixed with common thermic glue silicone. The only convection air dynamics will not allow the internal case temperature will higher than external, moreover with the fan airflow.
7. Tested during two months. On sunny days, just the minute after leaving the parking area you can feel the hot air canon if you put your hand on the screen back. And driving against the sun, the whole case temperature is a little hot but not burning like before. No fail, not more screen or device shutdown.

I attached some shoots of whole process.
If any question/doubt please reply or email me.
And many thanks for your advice and help in this forum.
optimvs
 

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Last edited:

Snipeg

Member
Feb 15, 2020
14
3
I drilled hole for 30x30mm fan and connected it to 78M09 stabilizer (it was too loud when on 12V). Power is present there only when unit is ON
 

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felix297

Senior Member
Oct 19, 2011
89
50
I did the same modification as Barreto to my 'Pumpkin' PX6 Headunit. Before modding soc temps quickly exceeded 95°c. It had a pretty small heatspreader mounted with some bad adhesive thermal pad from the factory. After I replaced the heatsink + pad soc temps seem to be nowhere near before, around 45-55°c
 

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Reactions: optimvs

Vladimei

New member
Mar 12, 2020
1
1
Hi guys,

We are talking about a 5W chip here only and i see guys adding huge heatsinks without changing any thermalpad or doing some modification on the coreboard heatsink. Not very efficient unless you find out where exactly the heat dissipation is being restricted in the very first place ( or closer to restricted area as much as possible ) which is the thermal pad in this case. You must get rid of it first.

What i did ;

- Removed crappy thermal pad from the chip
- Sanded coreboard heatsink equally to reduce the gap between the chip and the heatsink
- Applied High Performance ( thermal conductivity 5 W/mK ) thermal paste on the chip
- Put an alumina ceramic pad 20x25x0.5 ( thermal conductivity 29 W/mK ) in between the chip and the coreboard heatsink
- Applied same thermal paste between ceramic pad and coreboard heatsink
- Applied same thermal paste between the crappy vga heatsink and the coreboard
- Soldered the fan to the voltage regulator

Never exceeded 80 C under torture tests. Hope this helps.

I will post my results after i drop some posts lol

Regards,

Hi Aysat

How much is the gap in millimeters between the chip and the unmodified heatsink coreboard?
I think it will be difficult for me to lower the feets of the heatsink coreboard and make it level. I wanted to buy the ceramic alumina pads that you have recommended, but I guess I will need a thicker pad. It had looks of 20x25x0.6mm, but it could still need 1mm or more. The pads are:

m.es.aliexpress.com/item/4000063252698.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&gps-id=storeRecommendH5&scm=1007.18500.139671.0&scm_id=1007.18500.139671.0&scm-url=1007.18500.139671.0&pvid=76bfd799-c4d0-49b2-b6b1-d130028bf76f&_t=gps-id:storeRecommendH5,scm-url:1007.18500.139671.0,pvid:76bfd799-c4d0-49b2-b6b1-d130028bf76f&spm=a2g0n.detail-amp.store-card.4000063252698&aff_trace_key=46452989b17943799d2faca5d51befbb-1583882337671-02448-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=9257amp-l97tuD5TMApeQTU6AaumpA1583982495944&browser_id=c26348896f9c4dc483b9ea6f816bb397&is_c=N

I will use the thermal paste Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut with 12.5 w/mk, which I use for my pc and it is excellent (a little expensive but with very good performance)

As for the heatsink, I have to look for a low profile one because it is a 1din radio with a dvd player and there won't be much space. Thanks in advance and good work you are doing with the bad work that the Chinese have done with the dissipation system!
 
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Reactions: optimvs

pixel1

Member
Jan 23, 2017
24
0
Hi, like most of you I would like to do this mod and cool the PX5 RK 3066 chip a bit.The pictures and posts made by wizzsb and IloveJapan helped me a lot. Considering the data sheet of RK 3066, if I interpret it correctly the dimensions of the chip itself are about 20x20mm (more precisely 19x19mm base and, top ie. the upper surface is 17.6x 17.6mm).If that’s true I can put a 20x 20mm pure copper plate as a heat conductor, right? The only question left is whether the thickness of the 0.5 mm copper plate is sufficient, or maybe it should be thicker (0.8 or even 1.00 mm)?
Finally, let me ask you if it was complicated to separate the cover from the core-board. I haven't seen the screws anywhere, except for the main ones that hold the core-board to MB. Is held only on adhesive, or what is it?
 
Last edited:

Pacote-san

Senior Member
Apr 2, 2008
176
29
I'm surprised to see people doing this mod and NOT mentioning kernel adiutor. One of the best things you could do with a PX3/5/6 unit is edit the kernel interactive to make it go full speed after 60% load, heck with this mods you can turn it to performance and let big.little cores go full speed all the time.

This makes the experience so smoother and it was the reason for me to proper mount a heatsink directly to the SoC.
 

shzlmnzl

Member
Dec 12, 2020
15
3
I'm surprised to see people doing this mod and NOT mentioning kernel adiutor. One of the best things you could do with a PX3/5/6 unit is edit the kernel interactive to make it go full speed after 60% load, heck with this mods you can turn it to performance and let big.little cores go full speed all the time.

This makes the experience so smoother and it was the reason for me to proper mount a heatsink directly to the SoC.

Do you have an link how it to do?
 

Pacote-san

Senior Member
Apr 2, 2008
176
29

marchnz

Senior Member
Nov 26, 2012
5,523
1,198
NZ
I'm surprised to see people doing this mod and NOT mentioning kernel adiutor. One of the best things you could do with a PX3/5/6 unit is edit the kernel interactive to make it go full speed after 60% load, heck with this mods you can turn it to performance and let big.little cores go full speed all the time.

This makes the experience so smoother and it was the reason for me to proper mount a heatsink directly to the SoC.

Ive mentioned it a bunch.
 

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  • 1
    I have installed mine today, NOCTUA 60mm fan.

    I had to remove the heat sink disipator and make one new hole to fit the fan, after that, i take one fan connector alarguer and soldered it to the main connector in the back of the Main Board, Negative and ACC positive. Everything is perfect now. Also i changed the thermal pads and added Thermal Paste Artic Cooling.

    1
    TBH: I would NOT recommend to mount additional weight onto the board. That´s something for stationary usage, but in the car you have too much shaking and punches on bad roads all over the world. The mounts of the board and the board itself is not constructed to resist this for a long time.

    Remove the fan and mount it in the lid of the unit as shown HERE!. It´s much more safe and the cooling is at least better than a directly mounted fan... and of course the Noctuas don´t have a huge air flow.
    Remove the thermal pad and use a high quality thermal paste instead, but don´t bring additional weight onto the boards.

    A 60mm fan in the mostly open lid in my PX6 keeps the unit bejond 70°C in hot weather. Just now in wintertime it is no more than 50°C even when using the throttling app.
  • 5
    Hello,

    I've improved the cooling on my PX6. First I've check how Rockchip CPU is link to the radiator: It's a poor quality thermal pad (not correctly centered)

    bopp.jpg


    I've tested if I can use thermal paste instead of thermal pad, but distance from SOC cover to the radiator is to far to be better than pad.

    gen6.jpg


    So I changed original pad to an high quality pad, correctly centered.

    9zve.jpg


    then I installed an Intel CPU radiator over the original one (with thermal paste between the 2 radiators) to improve heat exchange:

    1sqw.jpg


    I was needed to cut lot of fins to be sure to create no interference with other component on the SOM.

    bcbg.jpg


    8p20.jpg


    au2f.jpg


    Fitted in the unit:

    4jak.jpg


    I've tested the modification with several geekbench loops, temperature was 20°C less, but heat seemed to stay inside the unit enclosure. So I tested without top cover and temperature drop again 10°C. So I decided to modify top cover, without installation of a fan, to create a natural airflow.

    o2tn.jpg


    o48s.jpg


    xji4.jpg


    Results are good, now the SOC never throttle, even after 5 loops of geekbench or GFX bench, temperature increase slowly from 45°C (idle) until reaching a maximum of 72°C
    4
    A fan is NOT useless, and to think also.

    Good afternoon all involved,
    at first to say weather condition is important. It not same to use this kind of device in Moscow than in Madrid. Try use a car without fan engine in both places in summer time, you will quick notice the overheating difference. Then cost and quality of material used in the radio/gps device and main design are also important to keep safe of malfunctioning. And rarely these PX5 boards, screens and body cases are state of the art, be default the cheapest possible materials are used.

    Particularly on my device, a PX5 9" screen for Hyundai Kona, I found when outside temperature in Malaga (Spain) reaches +35 Celsius degrees (a nice day can reach +40 at shadow) the screen starts to self-disconnecting randomly, but CPU still alive. Duly noticed the screen cover (made I guess in poor plastic material) came to be untouchable, pain just fingering the screen cover. After one hour, the CPU starts to fail, making some reboot.

    Disassembling the unit, I found some facts. First one, the small design of case, the cooling air convection is ridiculous. Too small air intakes or holes, neither for CPU neither for screen are in safe condition. And moreover I found the screen chips temperature are higher than CPU most time. So the system came in few minutes very hot and unstable, it does not matter the low power consumption, because there is not effective way to cooling in extreme conditions. So any extra cooling system, manual or automatic, passive or active; is NOT useless.

    1. Taken dremel and diamond disc for made a 80mm hole for a classic PC fan. I bought the Tacens Aura II, very quiet specs, only used two pins.
    2. I set an PC molex connector (male and female) to power the fan, so easy for remove the unit, and screwed a PC dust/fan filter over the external case.
    3. The power line for fan is taken from car IGN1 (Hyundai Kona radio connector "B", #33 pink cable +12v) and not from ACC (classic red one), land/mass whatever available. I did not take from ACC because already is taken for supply the radio and screen. If you charge a 3rd device for ACC, the power will fail for some of them. Already tested and confirmed this issue.
    4. Inspected the CPU, retired the original thermal silicone piece and replaced by "Adwits" thermal conductive silicone pads 6.0 W/mk 1.0mm.
    5. Added directly over original PX5 CPU sink; two 50x25x5mm sinks (space with internal fan is adjusted). Directly placed sinks with conductive silicone pads. Then for security, employed "Visbella RTV" silicone hi-temp gasket maker, fixing new sinks to original PX5 sink, avoiding extra screws or weight. I must say this thermal paste has similar behavior and drying to Sikaflex 256 polyurethane car glass adhesive sealant.
    6. Finally at top-back side of screen case, as I saw in another branded gps screens, I made an air exit. In this case, two 30mm holes covered by two black stainless steel air vents. Fixed with common thermic glue silicone. The only convection air dynamics will not allow the internal case temperature will higher than external, moreover with the fan airflow.
    7. Tested during two months. On sunny days, just the minute after leaving the parking area you can feel the hot air canon if you put your hand on the screen back. And driving against the sun, the whole case temperature is a little hot but not burning like before. No fail, not more screen or device shutdown.

    I attached some shoots of whole process.
    If any question/doubt please reply or email me.
    And many thanks for your advice and help in this forum.
    optimvs
    3
    Yeah, you guys are prob right. The heatsink is really light, but the vibrations from a moving car could make it bounce a lot and damage the chip...
    I will just replace the thermal pad between the chip and top plate, remount the top plate and attach the heatsinks to this plate.

    I tested temps this weekend, and they were around 80C with music+GoogleMaps. Outside (ambient) temps were around 30C. (under stress was about 95C, but that is not normal use...)
    If it lowers 20C, I'll be happy.

    I will try to post some pics of the procedure when I receive the materials. (it shouldn't be very different from @IloveJapan post, but nevertheless...)
    It should take about 1 month or so...

    Hi again.
    I modded the HU a while ago but didn't have time to post pics/results.

    I bought 2 heatsinks with thermal adhesive. They are 40x40x30 aluminium pieces. They were suppose to go over the cover/heatplate
    I also bought thermal pads They were supposed to go over the chip, between the chip and the cover/heatplate

    When I was disassembling the HU, I found out that the cover/heatplate was glued to the mainboard. (it also had screws, but it had like 4 points of glue around) I didn't want to risk it being loose or fragile, so my initial thought of replacing the thermal pad was a no-go.

    I just cleaned the top of the heatplate really well with alcohol and stuck 1 heatsink to it, in the center of the plate. Although the heatsinks are really light, I didn't want to risk the plate/board becoming loose with vibrations or bumps, so I just installed 1 instead of 2.

    I'm really happy with the results. The temps came down from 80/90C to 45/50C (30C outside) with regular use (music/GMaps/Streaming TV).

    The HU feels snappier, doesn't hang so much and it doesn't become unresponsive

    If anybody wants an easy and really cheap way to lower your temps, I think this has good results.

    Attaching pictures.
    3
    In my opinion a fan installation is not necessary at all.
    Considering that the PX5 is a SoC with a maximum power consumption of 4.5W, so change the stock metal plate (with its low quality thermal pad underneath) with another bigger one is more than sufficient.
    I'm working in this direction.

    I modified a heatsink from an old AMD CPU to not interfere with the chassis, stuck it on the original metal plate, removed the metal plate and bad quality thermal pad from che cpu, bought and waiting for a new thermal pad (because the original thermal pad is not in direct contact with PX5 so thermal compond only is too thin to reuse the metal plate). Then I'll verify results.

    If not enough I will try to modify another heatsink and put in direct contact with the PX5 SoC. No fan is needed in my opinion.

    Last info: Temperature junction of PX5 is 125°C as written in Rockchip datasheet, so high temps (70-80 under full load) are absolutely normal for this kind of SoC
    2
    Hi, so back to the point from the thread title.
    Theres reason to keep lower temperature on any device with CPU as you can really extend lifetime and avoid trootling .
    Specciali for Px5 (any) android headunit which is build into car dashboard wheres can easily be 60°C in hot summer day.
    theres not only CPU whats heating, theres also mosfet amlifier which can dissipate 100W of heat.
    Another point to consider is that if you using animated or 3D background it uses CPU and GPU pretty much and keep it hot.

    So if someone interested theres small "How to"
    I found old 80mm 24V fan which works pretty ok (i put drop of oil on bearing)

    1. mark fan side holes holes, dril the hole and than mark main fan hole on the top part of headunit:
    IMG_1187.jpg


    2. cut the main hole (i used angle grinder + hand grinder) than i clean scorings with instant adhesive glue mixed with sawdust.
    IMG_1195.jpg


    3. To prevent corosion I paint a sheet with black spray.

    4. Solder 2 cables to 3pin socket and on mainboard to switched 12V/GND. (speed signal from fan is not used)
    I used 12V from 78M09 9V voltage regulator and GND from capacitor beside.
    As I have 24V fan - it runs pretty quiet on 12V as it is only 50% speed. If you use 12V fan, you can connect it to output of 78M09 (9V) to low down a speed.
    IMG_1197.jpg


    5. Done
    IMG_1201.jpg