Question G cam
- Thread starter althafjava
- Start date
I am using:
Which one???I am using:
Attachments
doesn't matter, but I use first one
uninstall it, install this version:
then load config file for A52:
it must work...
In case you have problem with HDR on wide photo cammera activate HDRnet in Advance menu...
link works
just use my previous link and download "scan3d" version of app
I
I can take photos. But I can't take photos while moving the camera. How to apply config
open app, on main screen tap on upper white arrow, on bottom right tap on settings icon -> configs -> Load
Can i have a
Screen shotopen app, on main screen tap on upper white arrow, on bottom right tap on settings icon -> configs -> Load
I am using:
Hello stillka,
is that on A52 or A52s?
The question was for A52s, but I think since you were also active in another thread that you are using an A52?
They have different chipsets. I have now tried maybe 10 different gcam versions and they all have the same problem on A52s, that the viewfinder freezes after 3-4 seconds (even before taking a picture).
Actually I had A52 ... Then I got a A52s... Now using A52s. ..no G cam is working
Okay, thank you and althafjava both for replying.
So at least here there is nobody who got it to work on A52s..
There was actually a bunch of S21 users with the exact same issue, but the versions they have with fixes for them don't seem to work either on A52s. I just hope since it's very new that it will be fixed, but it is so weird that it works in those few seconds before it freezes (you can take a high quality picture if you press the shutter fast enough).
on most my devices this works best:
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2First thank you for sharing your XML
Short question:
What else did you adjust in your gcam settings/XML except the fix for a52s?
I actually go into way too much detail into that here.
For the actual changes, in that post there is a bullet list near the top with changes made just to get it working properly, and then there is another bullet list near the bottom with more smaller changes I made.
And then there are a lot of personal preferences like no shutter sound, 3x3 grid overlay, h265 video recording.
But comparing to the many many many settings you can change, the changes from the defaults are extremely minimal (and if you want to have an even more barebones config with just the changes needed, I provide that config file there as well). -
12Hello,
I have been messing with the configs in more detail, and really felt a need to share what I learned, and I thought I would just do it here in a very very long comment, because I feel at least some readers here might be interested in messing with configurations. Feel free to ignore this message
Introduction
This message is about starting a GCam configuration from scratch. As you can read from other comments in this thread by me I have been using A52s + MGC 8.1+luke-A52-BSG-GV1.xml+sessionid fix since October, and was generally happy with it. But I was annoyed some pictures I took of Family failed over Christmas (white faces in dimly lit environment were too red because of over-saturation, easily fixed 'in post' but then I had already send the pictures around....).
So what I wanted to get away from was from this custom configuration whose origin I did not know, and I wanted to stay closer to the default Google/ MGC configuration, hoping it would work better in all kinds of scenarios.
Whenever I talk about 'Luke' here I mean luke-A52-BSG-GV1.xml which is the recommended A52 config on celsoazevedo. I do not have a lot of experience with the Morgenman config that is also often recommended here and on Telegram.
On the GCam version I use: Since using GCam (4 years) I have always used MGC from BSG, so for me it is a 'trusted brand' and I don't look at other creators if I don't have to. At the time of writing the MGC 8.4 build is beta and crashes on start on A52s, MGC_8.1.101_A9_GV1y and MGC_8.1.101_A9_GV1z have a very annoying "Photo saving finished toast" message pop up after each photo taken, so at this moment for me it actually is an easy choice for what GCam version I use: MGC_8.1.101_A9_GV1x (you're supposed to pick the ruler or scan3d version on Samsung, but I think they all work now?)
Edit 2022/2/12: See note below near download link
The basics of getting MGC GCam working on A52s without a configuration file
This is a very long message, but the core of what I wanted to share is that it is actually very easy to start your own configuration from scratch. I thought that you would have to set up hardware modules manually, or that there are extensive color configuration for individual phones, but neither of that is true. With just some small changes you can make it work and get really close to something like the Luke configuration:
- To reset the configuration you can reinstall the app, but I found it is better to reset the app by deleting it's local storage from the Android app settings (on reinstall it can sometimes find the last settings, don't know how).
- Go to Settings|Modules|module ...|Module hardware level, and set it to 'Level 3', do this for all 4 modules.
- For A52s (on A52 it is not necessary), go to Settings|Modules|module ...|Session of photo modes, and set it to '61448', do this for all 4 modules. (For MGC_8.1.101_A9_GV1y and later now you now have to set it three times per module)
- There is one less important thing, under Settings|Modules|Back 1.0|Manual focus, you may want to change the manual focus distances (only the Back 1.0 camera module has variable focus). There is a measurement debug tool on that page. based on that I have now set Near=14 (that is one beyond what you can focus up close), Far=1 (that is about one meter), Infinity=0 (by the way Far and Infinity are set very different in Luke and Morgenman).
- Added 16-3-2022: Even though using the Google Whitebalance setting is 'dangerous', you can make it a lot better by changing Settings|Modules|Back 1.0 and Back 0.5|AWB Correction|AWB For to 'Sony IMX_682_OFILM'.
- Added 22-3-2022: On A52 you can apparently use the Macro camera module, but on my A52s that does not appear to work. So A52 (non 's') users can go to Settings|Modules|WhiteList and set it to 54.
And with just those changes you are extremely close to the quality of Luke in my opinion. I was actually shocked by this
So then I took literally 400+ comparison photos, comparing both many configurations and many 'scenes'. My goal was achieved because I wanted to run a very basic config, but I wanted to make sure of course that the photos were at least about as good as the Luke config I was using before.
So I did a lot of comparisons with the Luke config (you can install GCam multiple times if you use the different package names, I used the scan3d and ruler packages at the same time). But I also compared different settings within the gcam app.
Noise noise noise
I thought I would be looking a lot at colors, but as it turns out I was looking mostly at noise. From what I found, you have to choose for either:
- more detail with more noise,
- or less noise but then also less detail.
The relevant settings are under Settings|Modules|Your favorite module|Image Processing|Noise Settings
(You have to enable the RAM patcher to use this. This is the mechanism in MGC GCam with which you can apply extra 'live' processing on the images beyond what stock Google Camera does)
There are different settings related to noise. The most relevant option appears to be "Noise Model Blocker", if you change that option to Unblock you get:
a) More detail in the images, images becomes sharper (less soft) and small details become visible.
b) More noise (grain) in the images, generally speaking especially in shadows.
I attached two sample comparisons related to noise.
In the night shot comparison (shot with night sight mode) you can see that there are more details visible when "Noise Model Blocker" is set to Unblock, more waves in the water, some structure of the bricks in brick walls, and correct branches in the tree on the right. I would say turning noise settings on in that scenario really helps.
In the 500% crop of a picture of a plant in the other comparison, you can see that the shadow cast on furthest leaf contains a ton of grain, except in the fourth picture there the shadow is way more smooth. That smoothness is in part caused by an overall softness in the image, but I much prefer it.
Both the Luke as well as the Morgenman configuration set Noise Model Blocker to Unblock, turn on Activating Noise Models, and set a Modified Noise Model (which contains a large set of to me mysterious values, these configs use very different values no idea what they mean). So they go for more detail and more noise.
But I am choosing to keep those noise parameters off, leading to less noise in the images but also less detail and more softness. It means that I do not use the RAM patcher at all, which means I stay closer to GCam defaults, which was my original goal.
Since the ultrawide camera on the A52s is technically quite bad, I would always keep those noise options off for the ultrawide cam, so you get less noise. There it is not a matter of taste in my opinion (but Morgenman and Luke have the noise parameters turned on in the RAM patcher section).
Other findings
Here some other things I learned (these are of course personal subjective observations, but I was very surprised by many things):
- I thought that in the end I would turn on more saturation again, to make pictures more colorful, but I did not feel the need (I am talking about Settings|Modules|e.g. back 1.0|Image Processing|Main settings|e.g. Saturation These are probably the RAM Patcher settings you would be most likely to customize for personal taste but I did not feel the need to touch them.
- I always used HDR+ Enhanced, but now that I did an extensive comparison, I could not see any difference in any picture where there was at least somewhat decent light with regular HDR+. And in very low light all it really did was make some dark parts of the photo more bright (but not more detailed). I intentionally went with many samples with a darkened subject and bright sky, so lots of dynamic range, but never saw any benefit to HDR+ Enhanced. So I am not using HDR+ Enhanced anymore, I am going to switch to (the faster regular) HDR+.
Edit 2022/3/6: I have now found that in some scenarios, specifically a dark room with a large window with sunlight on the outdoors HDR+ Enhanced can make a difference. But I still never encountered such a situation outside. - I also played with setting Settings|Module|Back 1.0|Frames HDR+ enhanced to much higher values. And again no difference seen, apart from taking longer to take a picture, and some dark objects being slightly lighter but not more detailed.
- Even when pixel peeping at individual pixels, so zoomed all the way in, I could not see a difference between JPEG 95% and JPEG 100% compression. The extra storage (those 5% extra mean more than double the file size) is no problem for me, but I just cannot see a difference so I am going to stick to the default 95%.
- I also took this opportunity to play more with RAW files. Those extra DNG files you can get look so different from the JPEG files with so much more detail in them. And they are 'free' extras apart from storage. But the problem is that they do not have all the color corrections that GCam applies to the JPEGs. So in practice they will never be as good as the JPEGs, only if photos are way too dark or overexposed (because with RAWs you can then still 'recover' shadows/ highlights by just changing exposure, that part also really works as with RAWs on real cameras). But GCam never really messes up the exposure. Only if I take a lot of photos at night (so really dark) or if you take pictures on a very bright day (so with chance of blowing out the sky) might it be useful to turn on RAW (DNG) storage just in case, but I doubt I will ever use those files in real life.
Config files with the configurations discussed in this message
Since the whole point of this long comment is to encourage you to try create your own configuration, I should not share mine. But for completeness and self containedness I will share my new config (so I am switching to my own config now).
I am on Samsung Galaxy A52s with Android 12, using this MGC Gcam version:
(I use the ruler version but probably they all work)
Edit 2022/2/12: Well this is awkward. I was recommending MGC_8.1.101_A9_GV1x but less then a week after my post that version now comes with a stern warning on celsoazevedo. The reason for that warning is because that version was loading pages from the celsoazevedo in the background (I believe in good faith). I am going to continue to use it, because it is the last version without an annoying 'Photo saving finished' toast covering the shutter button after every photo taken. But I now updated the link above to the version celsoazevedo recommends, even though it is not what I recommend or use at the moment. And I changed the attached configuration files, these configuration files now work on all recent 8.1.101 releases (u,w,x,y,z variants).
You can load one of the attached xml configs by double tapping next to the shutter button, or using the drop down menu at the top, then Settings|Configs|Load.
I added two configs to this message:
- mgc8.1-A52s-barebones.xml - A configuration with the absolute minimum changes to get MGC Gcam working on A52s, but for the rest all defaults from GCam and MGC, so no personal preferences of some random person just what is needed to get it working on A52s.
- sander-mgc8.1-20220314.xml - My actual current configuration, which has the mostly the same image quality settings as the barebones version above, but with many changes in other mostly user interface preferences, and with the changes described below.
- I updated my attached config, still mostly as it was when I wrote this in February except for the changes described below (exposure compensation +3 and "Frames HDR+" set to 14 instead of 7).
- The 'Google Auto Whitebalance' feature is somewhat problematic. But I describe above setting it to IMX682 and then it appears to be a lot better. Apparently the A52s comes with different camera modules, so it's best to try it out by making a photo a day with a blue sky, with the Google AWB on and off the sky should be the exact same blue in both cases (for me that is the case though). The safer option is to never turn on Google AWB...
- I am still experimenting with the best value for Settings|Modules|Back 1.0 and 0.5|Exposure compensation. For the ultra-wide it appears that +3 (or even higher) is definitely better. For the Main camera I have now set it to +2, but for certain situations +3 is better. Esepcially in sunny situations the Samsung stock app will go for an exposure like '+3', and brighter looks usually nicer then. Use +3 if you want to mimic the Samsung app exposure wise, use +2 (or less) if you want to be more accurate.
- In very specific situations, being my living room when my window is in the shot and it is Sunny outside, I can actually see a very noticable difference with the HDR+ Enhanced mode, that the outside world in the window in pictures is not overexposed. So in darker indoors situations with a Window to the outside world, it can be useful to turn HDR+ Enhanced on, and I changed Settings|Modules|Back 1.0||Frames HDR+ Enhanced to 14 because I will turn it on only in exceptional situations and then I can see the difference between 7 and 14 frames (but not really between 14 and 28 frames).
12Okay, I actually got something working on A52s, thanks to a comment from Windoors here:
You have to change the Photo Session, and no I have no idea what that is or what the values below actually mean.
To make it concrete, here is how I got GCam working on the A52s (emphasis on 'S'):
- Download and install
Edit 2022/02/12: See long note below
I picked the ruler package name version
- Load luke-A52-BSG-GV1.xml from the configs section of the URL above (location of file does not matter, double tap next to shutter button and select it).
- Now you have a camera app that freezes up after 3 seconds on A52s (you can still take pictures before that freeze)
- Go to the Settings, then
Modules
Back (1.0)
Session of photo modes (near the bottom of the list)
and enter the value 61444
Then do the same for
Settings / Modules / Back (0.5) / Session of photo modes / 61444
Settings / Modules / Front (1.0) / Session of photo modes / 61444
(I don't think the Back 1.1 and Front 0.8 do anything, so I don't think they need changing)
And presto working GCam with all camera's working, both for photos and videos.
Is 61444 the best value? No idea, I have no idea what it even means, so I will experiment more.
If you want to try it with other GCam versions, that 'Session' value is stored in different locations.
For instance in Gcam-8.1.101.build-V6.2.211013 from Arnova8G2 it is under Settings|Advanced|Stream Config|Enable OPMode and then set it for Main
and in MGC_8.3.252_V0e it is under Settings|Photo modes session config|Session ID
But both of these versions at least initially appear to have less stability and features, so I am at least for continuing to experiment with MGC_8.1.101_A9_GV1u for now.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Added on 2022/2/12:
On celsoazevedo the version I recommend above now comes with a stern warning. Apparently a number of MGC versions including MGC_8.1.101_A9_GV1u would load pages from celsoazevedo in the background, as I understand it in good faith. So celsoazevedo now wants you to use a newer version, So here I present updated instructions, but to be honest I do not like this version at all (it has an annoying on-screen message after every photo taken) and in fact will continue to use MGC_8.1.101_A9_GV1x myself. So in my mind the instructions above that I now wrote 4 months ago are still better than the instructions I give here now for Samsung Galaxy A52s running Android 11 or 12:
- Download and install
I picked the ruler package name version
- Load luke-A52-BSG-GV1.xml from the configs section of the URL above (location of file does not matter, double tap next to shutter button and select it).
- Now you have a camera app that freezes up after 3 seconds on A52s (you can still take pictures before that freeze)
- Go to the Settings, then
Modules
Back (1.0)
Session of photo modes (near the bottom of the list)
Photo
and enter the value 61448
Then do the same for
Settings / Modules / Back (1.0) / Session of photo modes / Portrait / 61448
Settings / Modules / Back (1.0) / Session of photo modes / Night Sight / 61448
Settings / Modules / Back (0.5) / Session of photo modes / Photo / 61448
Settings / Modules / Back (0.5) / Session of photo modes / Portrait / 61448
Settings / Modules / Back (0.5) / Session of photo modes / Night Sight / 61448
Settings / Modules / Front (1.0) / Session of photo modes / Photo / 61448
Settings / Modules / Front (1.0) / Session of photo modes / Portrait / 61448
Settings / Modules / Front (1.0) / Session of photo modes / Night Sight / 61448
Settings / Modules / Front (1.2) / Session of photo modes / Photo / 61448
Settings / Modules / Front (1.2) / Session of photo modes / Portrait / 61448
Settings / Modules / Front (1.2) / Session of photo modes / Night Sight / 61448
And presto working GCam with all camera's working, both for photos and videos.
When I first wrote this post I was just glad to have something working, but now many months later I can say this 'recipe' has been what I have been using for many months (I have now switched, see my message from Feb 6 2022 in this thread, but if you're starting out I recommend the way described here).
If you want to try it with other GCam versions, that 'Session' value is stored in different locations.
For instance in Gcam-8.1.101.build-V6.2.211013 from Arnova8G2 it is under Settings|Advanced|Stream Config|Enable OPMode and then set it for Main
and in MGC_8.3.252_V0e it is under Settings|Photo modes session config|Session ID
But both of these versions at least initially appear to have less stability and features, so I am at least for continuing to experiment with MGC_8.1.101_A9_GV1u for now.3
That is great....
I only really made small changes, so not an expert here. And I have been using GCam for several years now but only in the last months did I feel a need to change anything.
So I think actually the most relevant things you can do is go to Modules|your favorite module|Image processing|Main settings Because both Luke and Morgenman changed stuff there and for many options it is clear what
But since you asked I will share my config (attached), of course you cannot use that config with your version
But I will also describe what I changed so that you can see it's very little:
- So it's based on luke-A52-BSG-GV1.xml
- I shoot with 16:9 so that is probably the first thing you want to change back to 4:3
- With 61448 entered for session of photo modes so that the preview does not freeze (A52s fix)
- Dialed down the saturation from what Luke does (from 1.25 to 1.125), I like more saturation but it made my niece and nephews (white) faces way too red, that is under Settings|Modules|Back 1.0| Image Processing|Main Settings|Saturation (I think I also may have reduced sharpness a little bit on the same page, I have it now set to 1.125).
- Disabled hints for framing (main settings page) because that horizon leveling indicator does simply not work...
- Set DNG to compressed (Global settings) and added option to switch between RAW (DNG) and JPEG in the dropdown menu (but DNG is not enabled in the config, just made it easier to turn it on, DNG is a mixed bag, but it's fun to experiment because the pictures are so different without JPEG).
- Changed JPEG quality (Global settings) to 98% (I now see that in luke it is set to 100 so I reduced it? In the end it probably does not matter, picture quality is not going to be affected a lot JPEG compression itself)
- Changed some astro mode settings (mostly Modules|Back 1.0||Astro max exposure time to 16 seconds). But maybe that is not wise, I actually had an opportunity to make astro photos in a really dark night and GCam saw thousands of stars but the result still sucked, and that could be on me (e.g. forgot to turn on DNG storage).
- Turned on H.265 support (Store videos effeciently option in advanced settings). Means video files are half the size without quality loss, and are a pain to work with.
Still to play with but not tested yet, I am also intreaged to try out Modules|Back 1.0|Frames HDR+ Enhanced.
Edit: Let me make this comment more self contained by adding that I use this on A52s (works on Android 11 and 12) in combination with this GCam version:
3
Just for completeness, that is not true.
They are surely based on one each other, but if you look with a diff tool at these files you see a lot of small differences in all kinds of areas of the configuration.
I think the Morgenman file is meant to be used with the Morgenman .so library file, but everybody who uses that config seems to use it without that library
(I also now tried the morgenman xml file linked above in the comment from January 10, so can now confirm it works on A52s+Android 12 (without the Morgenman extra library))
It is true that Morgenman config includes the Photo Session Fix so will work out of the box on A52s.
Now that I have used the luke config a number of months and made small personal adjustments, I would say the most 'controversial' aspect of the Luke config is that it increases the saturation by a lot:
Settings|Modules|Back 1.0| Image Processing|Main Settings|Saturation
is set to 1.25, and that leads to very colorful pictures but I found that when I took pictures of white people in dimly lit environments it makes their faces really red.
Just for that reason alone Morgenman (which has that value set to a more modest 1.0625) may be a better starting point.2First thank you for sharing your XML
Short question:
What else did you adjust in your gcam settings/XML except the fix for a52s?
I actually go into way too much detail into that here.
For the actual changes, in that post there is a bullet list near the top with changes made just to get it working properly, and then there is another bullet list near the bottom with more smaller changes I made.
And then there are a lot of personal preferences like no shutter sound, 3x3 grid overlay, h265 video recording.
But comparing to the many many many settings you can change, the changes from the defaults are extremely minimal (and if you want to have an even more barebones config with just the changes needed, I provide that config file there as well).
