Yes, thanks.I have read in some cases the external one is being interfered by the internal microphone. Have you tried to disable it?
Tried this using both methods - software and disconnecting internal mic, both unsuccessful.
Yes, thanks.I have read in some cases the external one is being interfered by the internal microphone. Have you tried to disable it?
Perhaps your external mic is faulty.Yes, thanks.
Tried this using both methods - software and disconnecting internal mic, both unsuccessful.
Thought that too at first, but tried three of them...
What headunit do you have?
It does have interference but not in the way that the external mic doesn't work anymore. It simply doesn't improve and gets slightly worse, but that is something else than not functioning at all.I have read in some cases the external one is being interfered by the internal microphone. Have you tried to disable it?
Thank you. I’m sure I read a post on 4pda that someone had an issue with the external not working until they disabled the onboard mic. But I do agree with you. It shouldn’tIt does have interference but not in the way that the external mic doesn't work anymore. It simply doesn't improve and gets slightly worse, but that is something else than not functioning at all.
Or FYT has introduced a new bug![]()
I was going to suggest checking the wiring harness to ensure it has a good connection in the connector.Thank you all for the input. Here is my plan
Is there anything else that you all would recommend?
- Quadruple check the physical connection and ensure physical click
- Test the eternal physical mic (3.5mm jack -> harness -> HU) to another device to see if it works
- Try to find a known working external mic, and test this
- Quadruple check that internal mic is disabled (i did this in software in the factory setting, no change, but it sounds like I need to see the manufacture date to see if was made before August, and then I might have to open the unit)
Interested in this too.I just had the idea to use a USB mic since my HU came with multiple cables. Has anyone else attempted a USB mic with an FYT unit, and if so, which one and what did you have to do to get it to work?
Ok, so low-power options. Got it. I'm going to grab a cheap USB mic that I have laying around, and then if that fails, look for other options that are specific to Android. Seeing a lot of "lapel" mics designed to record to a phone, so that's promising. May also test with a USB A-C adapter on my phone. Will update in about 10hrs. If anyone has any recommendations, please shareInterested in this too.
I tried with a USB Jabra conference device which didn't work but I suspect needed more power.
FYT have crippled Bluetooth and USB on these devices.I just had the idea to use a USB mic since my HU came with multiple cables. Has anyone else attempted a USB mic with an FYT unit, and if so, which one and what did you have to do to get it to work?
Ack. I did get bluetooth to work on mine, and wired Android Auto via USB. Can you give me some more details on what I should try to give me the best chance of getting this to work?FYT have crippled Bluetooth and USB on these devices.
I would not be surprised if a USB mic didn't work.
You already tried a lot, but did you contact Idoing and did you ask them? They are the first to contact but you don't mention that.I tried a random USB mic that I had lying around; no dice. Will try around with lesser audio app that was recommended to me in another thread, and maybe look for an android-specific USB app
Fully suspecting a software issue on the head Unit at this point. Any other ideas?
You are correct. I did reach out to Idoing first. They gave me basic troubleshooting steps which I've already tried, said "this should work", then asked for the wiring diagram for my stock head unit, so they could try to make a harness for the stock mic. Then said they'd get back to me in Feb.You already tried a lot, but did you contact Idoing and did you ask them? They are the first to contact but you don't mention that.
If your microphone connection is really defective you should
You are in the Netherlands. That means every 10~20 kilometer another frequency for the same radio station on a radio app that does not support Alternate Frequency.As far as I understood, in order for it to work you need to put it on a usb stick. I tried it, by replacing the radio app in another modified radio app which had a zip file available to patch the radio. However the lsec6315update file is outdated, so that didn't work. I also already looked into this APK, and though of adding radio logo's for the Netherlands. But once again, I have no knowledge of that.
I only think this modded version looks so much better, than how the stock radio looks and unlike Navradio: these really replace the stock radio, so the launchers don't get crippled.
It has some logos of German Radio stations already included, but not all of them: I unpacked the APK, to see the logos.
You don't need to unpack the bin. Simply copy the apk of your system with something like TotalCommander or so.Ahhhh, ok. I see there's a whole complex process to unpack and repack the bins on the first page here. I am pretty sure I saw an png floating around on its own once before, I don't understand how I saw that if this is the case. I definitely never did all that before.
I'm wondering, is it possible to just take that png off an installed system and then update it without flashing? Perhaps using ADB on an connected laptop? I feel like this might require a lot of trial and error to get the lines right and all this packing/unpacking seems like too much hassle.
It is not a set of pngs on the system. They are inside the com.syu.us.apk as resources. Unzip the apk, alter the pngs and then rezip the apk.Thanks! I saw that but I still don't understand where to find it. I don't see a png called anything like that anywhere in the firmware or on my headunit in the file manager currently. In fact, the only png files I'm finding are wallpapers.
When connecting wired, you better first disable the wireless Android Auto by going into developer settings. They ( Google ) removed it from the main settings menu of AA, and hid it.You put multiple different questions in one topic. Please sum tem up instead of making one long story.
You can't use the hotspot and Android Auto at the same time.
When wanting to use Android Auto:
- You first need to connect via Bluetooth
- Then connect via USB and follow the
CarLink creates this hotspot, for your Android Auto connection: perhaps you should take a look in the settings of CarLink?I'm sorry if I've explained myself wrong, I'm Spanish and my English isn't very good... First of all, thank you very much for answering me. I don't want to use the hotspot, it's a configuration created by the Car Link 2.0 app and I think it's causing a bug with bluetooth (I think). I want to connect an iPhone via wireless and the bluetooth of the radio disappears and it is impossible to link any device. If I manually turn off the hotspot created by the Car Link app and force close the Bluetooth service in settings, then the radio's bluetooth seems to be re-established and the iPhone can connect with CarPlay.
Binary | Unit | Script |
lsec6315update | uis7862 (ums512) | 7862lsec.sh |
lsec6316update | sc9863a (uis8581a) | 8581lsec.sh |
lsec6521update | sc9853i | lsec.sh |
lsec6523update | sc7731 (uis8141e) | lsec.sh |
twipe_all # Wipe entire system
twipe_data # Will wipe data partition (but not /sdcard, internal memory). Wiping the /data partition will wipe all config, all 3rd party apps and updates of system apps. This is the same as a "reset to factory defaults"
twipe_cache # Will wipe the cache of the apps thereby removing the temporary files that are stored for those programs.
twipe_sd # Will wipe internal memory /sdcard (but not the data partition)
dellapp # Remove all 3rd party apps
make_updates # Make an upgrade U-disk boot file
test # test unit and firmware before flash
ro.product.locale = pt_BR
ro.sf.swrotation = 90
persist.sys.zlink.mic.vol=9.9
persist.audio.mic.senstivity=1
persist.btmic.gain=10
persist.btspk.gain=7
com.zoulou.dab = -10
net.dinglisch.android.taskerm = -10
brotli -vd system.new.dat.br -o system.new.dat
sdat2img.py system.transfer.list system.new.dat system.img
mkdir system
sudo mount -o loop system.img system
ls -Rl system
sudo mount -o loop system.img system
sudo mksquashfs system system.img.sqsh
sudo umount system
sudo mount -o loop system.img.sqsh system
Apart from the /oem partition and a few others, the /system, /vendor and /product partition are read-only. In earlier FYTs, you could use the lsec script to make them read-write and then modifiy content, add/remove files/apks, etcetera from these partitions. The big disadvantage for modders with these new dynamic partitions is that you can't make them read-write anymore.Dynamic partitions are a userspace partitioning system for Android. Using this partitioning system, you can create, resize, or destroy partitions during over-the-air (OTA) updates. With dynamic partitions, vendors no longer have to worry about the individual sizes of partitions such as system, vendor, and product. Instead, the device allocates a super partition, and sub-partitions can be sized dynamically within it. Individual partition images no longer have to leave empty space for future OTAs. Instead, the remaining free space in super is available for all dynamic partitions.
lsec6315update
lsec_update/7862lsec.sh
"stuff that needs to be copied/moved/installed"
lsec6315update (binary)
lsec6316update (binary)
lsec_updatesh (folder)
7862lsec.sh (shell script)
8581lsec.sh (shell script)
OEM_APP (folder)
190000000_to_be_replaced (folder of the apk)
190000000_to_be_replaced.apk (some apk we want to replace)
#!/system/bin/sh
#Remove the current app data/program cache/cache. This is only necessary for some applications, but it never harms
rm -rf /data/dalvik-cache/profiles/190000000_to_be_replaced
rm -rf /data/data/190000000_to_be_replaced
rm -rf /data/dalvik-cache/arm64/*190000000_to_be_replaced*
#
# Copying file to /oem/app
#
cp -r /storage/sdcard1/OEM_APP/* /oem/app/
#
# Updating folder/file access rights
#
chown -R 0.0 /oem/app/190000000_to_be_replaced
chmod 755 /oem/app/190000000_to_be_replaced
chmod 644 /oem/app/190000000_to_be_replaced/190000000_to_be_replaced.apk
Hi.Thanks for the good idea!
Unfortunately in my case, the cars SWC are all through CANBUS and so I haven't connected the KEY1/KEY2 inputs to the HU at all. In so doing, I am relying on the CANBUS manufacturer to intepret those button presses as "mode, vol +, vol - ", which is unfortunately unable to be remapped at the moment.
I may just install a simple aftermarket remote to the KEY1/KEY2, to use my current SWC controls, AND the after market ones in parallel. Then I will remap the after market buttons, to whatever I want, eg. Button 1 = Spotify, Button 2 = Tidal etc ".
Will update if I manage to get the parts off Aliexpress soon!
Cheers!