I drilled a hole in my Nook!

[_ig_]

Could this method be used to install nook on bicycle ? Or maybe somebody know better bicycle fixing mechanism?

I think you could use this http://www.amazon.com/Campro-Microphone-ShockMount-Connectors-Included/dp/B004YGMOSC on the bike since it seems to have a 5/8" connector adapter. I haven't received the hard case yet, so I'm not sure it would be strong enough to hold the Nook when you hit those occasional bumps, in which case Renate's method of drilling a hole in back may be the way to go...

 

[Renate NST]

All this stuff would work.

I just don't know how "snappy" the hard back is and how difficult to put on/take off.

The other thought of mine was to epoxy a steel plate to the case
then use a powerful magnet on something.

I had also thought of epoxying a cold shoe to the outside of the case.

 

[Renate NST]

I sawed a leg off a tripod!

Here's another stand possibility, a monopod.

The bendy leg came off a small bendy tripod.
The hex piece is a 1/4-20 coupler with a 1/4-20 setscrew.
The other end had its threads filed out so that the leg could be inserted.
The whole thing was expoxied with JB Weld.

 

[_ig_]

Here's another stand possibility, a monopod.

Cool. Here is my provisional stand... waiting for the hard cover... the stand is tough, can probably hold a 20" screen :laugh:

 

[Renate NST]

Yes, the gooseneck is very stiff.
The gooseneck in your photo looks longer than 8"
There was a bit of a discrepancy on the Amazon site.
The photo showed a longer gooseneck but the part number was for an 8"

 

[_ig_]

Yes, the gooseneck is very stiff.
The gooseneck in your photo looks longer than 8"

I checked and it's 10"... then again, I got this one which seemed exactly the same: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KEERXW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

 

[_ig_]

Got the back cover. Final product:

 

[Renate NST]

That's pretty nice and I'll bet it's awfully solid.
How easy is it to get in and out of the mount?

Are you going for the full desktop solution with keyboard and hub?

 

[_ig_]

That's pretty nice and I'll bet it's awfully solid.
How easy is it to get in and out of the mount?
Are you going for the full desktop solution with keyboard and hub?

It's solid, but I had to glue a thin foam between the metal and the plastic back-cover to improve adherence. Getting the Nook in and out of the mount is easy - it snaps well; the quality of the back-cover is not bad at all.

No plans to incorporate the usb hub and keyboard at the mo, but it should be relatively easy to run the usb cable thru the inside of the leg and stick the usb hub to the back of the back-cover...

 

[jealousblues]

Sorry to bump an old thread.
Im using a nook color for lyrics live and im doing something similar but im attaching it to my light stand but I need help.

heres my plan

1) Attach Global Truss Clamp Jr to top of old boom stand
2) ....???...
3) (profit) attach what ever I come up with for step two to an adaptor like the OP did in this one, except im going to attach it to my otterbox instead of directly to the nook.

BUT I need help with step two.
I took the mic clip off the boom stand but now I need something to attach the threaded end of that stand to the bit you placed on the back of your nook, op...
also I want it to swivel and rotate.

Any thoughts?

---------- Post added at 09:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:03 AM ----------

I would think you could rig something up with a "quick release" latch like they use for the wheels or the seat

I bet there is already an adaptor for this somewhere though

 

[jealousblues]

here is a picture of what I have so far

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8153105389/

 

[Renate NST]

It's the last bit of connection to the device that's the tough one.
Various solutions are:

• Glue a flat metal plate to the device and use a powerful magnet. (An old disk drive has insanely strong magnets.)
• Glue a photo cold shoe plate to the device and use a shoe adapter.
• Mount a T-nut inside the device and use a threaded end (as above).
• Use a repurposed hard shell (as above).
• Make a little tray with 4 lips out of sheet metal.

 

[jealousblues]

i think ive found my solution

attach this to the end of the boom stand, so the nook can swivel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GWCC4I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and use your t nut method.
ill probably drill a hole in the case so not to do so to the nook

do you think its better to use the t nuts with the locking blades or the smooth one you did?


i considered this
"Glue a photo cold shoe plate to the device and use a shoe adapter."
but it never occured me to glue it,
in my mind it was more like "this adapter would work...but i have no idea how to connect it to the nook"

 

[jealousblues]

so I got the brad hole tee nut today
and tomorrow im getting the mic/video adaptor tomorrow.

The otterbox arrived today.
It felt a little thinner than I thought it might and it added more weight than I thought.

Originally I thought i would put the tee nut between the hard shell and the rubber bumper part but im wondering if that will cause the hard shell to break under the weight.

so the way I look at it I have three options on where to place the tee nut

1) b/t the hard shell and rubber
2) b/t the rubber and the nook
3) under the nooks back plate

and drilled through the above layers.

What do you think?

 

[Renate NST]

The "brad" T-nut is clearly better. You only need the tang one for wood.

I really don't know how the structure of the Nook Color is.
On the Touch I just mounted the T-nut between the battery and the case.
There is enough breathing room there.
If it made the case bow out a fraction of an inch it wasn't a problem.

 

[jealousblues]

just an update in case anyone cares

so I had that working at the gig the other day and the base was slightly bowing from the pressure. SO what I did was move the tee nut from between the outer case and the rubber one to between the rubber one and the nook (still passing through the plastic case). I also put a washer on the inside of the plastic part around the tee nut so it increased the area that was getting pressure on the case, then I put another larger washer on the outside of the case b/t it and the mouth and its a lot more stable now.
Ill see how it does tonight.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8172909885/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/8172938918/

 

[Renate NST]

I wanted to make a mic adapter for my Nook with the T-nut.
It would have about a 1" square face with an inset to accept the shaft of the T-nut so that the face of the block would lie directly against the back of the Nook.
A captive plastic knob 1/4-20 would engage the T-nut.

 

[DeanGibson]

Where did you get the cable?

... the cable pictured in the thumbnail in the OP?

 

[Renate NST]

I mention the adapter in this post.

 

[Renate NST]

Too many times of whirling the Nook around on the 1/4-20 microphone mount finally broke the bond on the T-nut inside.
The JB Weld sticks fine to the steel of the T-Nut but not so well to the inside of the back cover of the Nook.

I decided to do some lightweight reinforcement of the back cover.
I took a piece of 1/64" thick sheet aluminum.
That's thick enough that you should use sheet metal snips to cut them
but you could use a good pair of paper scissors (as long as they're not yours).

I cut a piece as big as the battery compartment, about 2-1/4" x 3-9/16".
I drilled a hole in the right place.
I gooped epoxy on the underside of the aluminum plate.
I gooped epoxy on the underside of the T-nut and pushed it through the aluminum and the case.
I set a screw and a little cup on the outside to provide tension, then reassembled.
The next day I removed the screw and tried it out.

It's much stiffer and a lot less wobbly than it was originally. Success.