How To Guide April 17, 2024 AP1A.240405.002.B1 Global - Unlock bootloader / Root Pixel 7 Pro [Cheetah] / SafetyNet

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i5lee8bit

Senior Member
Jul 18, 2006
500
1,138
escaped New Jersey 🙏🙌
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My Pixel 7 is the first phone I've run rooted since my OnePlus 6T on Android 9. It appears the process to OTA update has changed since the last time I did it a few years ago. If I follow the steps in post #2 of this thread to update (running modified flash-all.bat w/ full factory image, patching the init_boot.img in Magisk, flashing patched .img), will this automatically put the new images on the inactive slot then switch it to active? Or do I need to manually switch slots first then run flash-all.bat?
You don't need to switch slots manually, generally ever, when updating your phone. If you flash full factory image, it'll just install over your current active slot and done. If you sideload OTA zip, it'll flash to the other slot and change slots for you and boot (you won't even notice it happening tbh).

One question though: are you currently running with verity/verification disabled? If you don't know what I'm talking about, it's probably a "no", but keep in mind if you want to flash a custom kernel for this device you'll need to disable them. And unfortunately that will require a data wipe the first time you do it, and then you need to remember to disable again each time you update on future updates. There's a very slim chance they'll find a workaround to needing them disabled eventually but I wouldn't count on it. More info on this can be found in the OP's and kernel development threads (e.g. Kirisakura). If you don't care about flashing custom kernels, simply disregard this last point and the next.

But my major reason for that last point is that if you are running verity and verification disabled, in that case you may want to manually switch slots and flash full factory image with v/v disabled as a means of being overcautious. My reasoning for this is that you never know when you may run into a bootloop from a bad flash, which will automatically trigger an active slot switch, and once it attempts to boot without those flags disabled, you're beat and have to wipe. So out of an abundance of caution, I flashed both slots last month with the flags disabled.
 

sharksfan7

Senior Member
Aug 7, 2011
266
88
San Diego
Thanks, @i5lee8bit. When I rooted my P7, I don't think I did anything to disable verity/verification. I just patched/flashed the init_boot.img then configured some stuff in Magisk. I don't plan on running a custom kernel.

I didn't think I could sideload just the OTA being rooted. Thought I needed to flash the full factory image and re-root. It's been a while since I've done this. Looks like I need to do a bit more research before I do this update.
 

simplepinoi177

Forum Moderator
Staff member
Learning about Pixel OTAs + retain root.
* Unhide Magisk + disable modules
* Flash stock init_boot.img
* OTA or OTA side load
* Re-patch / flash init_boot.img

Question on side load. Google says to check System update before side loading?
I'm still on Oct - Pixel took it upon itself to start downloaded and I paused it.
Upon reviewing it shows resume...without any build info which I find annoying - pretty sure wants to update to Nov. It OK to sideload OTA in this paused state?

Which leads my 2nd question - is it that OTA via phone always incremental / delta. IE I need Nov OTA before Dec. 2 separate updates in this case?
But side load OTAs are full so one can jump to latest release via single ota side load?

I'm kinda leaning toward only dealing update / re-root quarterly so prefer the single update. Would also like to know how to block OTA check / auto download. Anything native or can I block with afwall+? (Auto updates was disabled in dev options but it still began downloading anyway)

Lastly will safeynet fixes periodically get broken with OTAs?

Thanks
Sorry I can't answer much of your questions; I just wanted to answer what I can and hope to bump your post a bit so maybe it can be answered by experts better than I.
I am not certain as for your first question (so please just take it as my opinion and don't base further action from it), I imagine Google anticipates such actions that by sideloading OTAs would cancel/invalidate whatever partial/paused OTA is currently being downloaded. If anything, I imagine it would only be troublesome if it was in the process of "installing", but if you paused it early on, most likely it was still downloading and/or I doubt you could pause it once it was actually in the middle of installing.
As for your second question (again, just my opinion and do not base further action from it), I imagine OTA's, although incremental, carry-over and/or include whatever improvements the previous OTA's had and it merely modifies & works-on the core system and much of it isn't really touched outside what the OTA patches so applying each update step-by-step isn't really applied to much of the core system. In the end, what I'm implying is that if I were in your position, I, myself, would not apply each OTA from what version you are in to current -- I would merely install the latest OTA only.
Honestly, if you are concerned with the incremental differences OTA's apply and are going to sideload them anyways and you mentioned you'd like to update it quarterly and prefer a "single update", you should consider flashing the full factory images instead of the OTA's. You have to open up a command prompt and run commands anyways (also you would need to if you plan to re-root), the major differences is you run commands in the bootloader mode (than recovery mode) and run a few more commands (fastboot than adb); one other important addition is you MUST remove "-w" from the flash-all script to keep your data -- but that's basically it. Again, this case & opinion only applies if you are sideloading OTA's, un-rooting and implementing the (very fairly slow, although it's been announced it has been more streamlined and process time has been cut down significantly) System Update in the OS would not need you using the adb command (necessarily) and downloading & applying images.
One other thing I might mention since you mention "Pixel OTAs + retain root" (even if it seems you know this info already, but take it as a reminder if that's the case) is you are unable to apply the OTA through System Update if you are rooted as well as once you apply the OTA (or Factory Image), you will lose root; there is (currently) no way to apply the OTA and "retain root" -- it must be re-applied.
As for your inquiry about blocking the OTA check/auto-download, roirraW "edor" ehT touched on the topic and pointed to a post that might be applicable back in post #1318. It might do and/or at least point you in the right direction.
Lastly, yes, sometimes the firmware & OTA updates break things related to root and bypassing root checks, but you can always count on it being reported/discussed here and can keep updated on things and its progress here -- but such is the risk of rooting and keeping the device up-to-date. Depending on the "damage", it's usually dealt with swiftly enough...the great developers that work on aspects of this device, Android OS, and Magisk work ever so diligently...
Thanks, @i5lee8bit. When I rooted my P7, I don't think I did anything to disable verity/verification. I just patched/flashed the init_boot.img then configured some stuff in Magisk. I don't plan on running a custom kernel.

I didn't think I could sideload just the OTA being rooted. Thought I needed to flash the full factory image and re-root. It's been a while since I've done this. Looks like I need to do a bit more research before I do this update.
I could be completely wrong, but I don't believe you need to be unrooted to sideload the OTA; you only need to be unrooted if you plan on using the System Update in the OS. BUT, regardless, in all options, root is lost and must always re-root afterwards. As I said with taysandman, I implore you to seriously consider still updating using the Full Factory images rather than sideloading the OTA merely because the Full Factory is a superior update (@roirraW "edor" ehT explains it best) as well as sideloading the OTA is not that much different or far-fetched from updating using the Full Factory image (both have to download images, open a command prompt, run commands, and you'd have to open/run fastboot to re-root anyway) -- the only big differences is it being done in bootloader mode instead of recovery, fastboot commands instead of adb, and you must modify the flash-all script before running it.


Apologies for the wordiness, but I hope it helps...
 

kornball

Senior Member
Oct 6, 2009
222
77
With the update to battery usage in Settings, is the graph gone for anyone else? Everything is properly listed in usage since last full charge, but there is no longer any sort of graph.
 

Techboyz97

Member
Apr 23, 2019
17
1
I was on T1B3.221003.008. I received an update yesterday night. Now I'm on TQ1A.221205.011 but I don't see the changes. Exemple : the battery usage graph shows the full charge on a day and not up to 7 days. The Security and Privacy are separated and not merged.
 

vurtomatic

Senior Member
Mar 22, 2015
576
145
I thought I used to be able to tap the battery icon in the status bar to open battery settings. That seems to be gone after the Dec update?
 

Lughnasadh

Senior Member
Mar 23, 2015
6,174
7,673
Google Nexus 5
Huawei Nexus 6P
I was on T1B3.221003.008. I received an update yesterday night. Now I'm on TQ1A.221205.011 but I don't see the changes. Exemple : the battery usage graph shows the full charge on a day and not up to 7 days. The Security and Privacy are separated and not merged.
Some of the changes likely require a server side update, Google Play System update, Google Play Services update or the like.
 

taysandman

Member
May 15, 2016
46
15
Sorry I can't answer much of your questions; I just wanted to answer what I can and hope to bump your post a bit so maybe it can be answered by experts better than I.
I am not certain as for your first question (so please just take it as my opinion and don't base further action from it), I imagine Google anticipates such actions that by sideloading OTAs would cancel/invalidate whatever partial/paused OTA is currently being downloaded. If anything, I imagine it would only be troublesome if it was in the process of "installing", but if you paused it early on, most likely it was still downloading and/or I doubt you could pause it once it was actually in the middle of installing.
As for your second question (again, just my opinion and do not base further action from it), I imagine OTA's, although incremental, carry-over and/or include whatever improvements the previous OTA's had and it merely modifies & works-on the core system and much of it isn't really touched outside what the OTA patches so applying each update step-by-step isn't really applied to much of the core system. In the end, what I'm implying is that if I were in your position, I, myself, would not apply each OTA from what version you are in to current -- I would merely install the latest OTA only.
Honestly, if you are concerned with the incremental differences OTA's apply and are going to sideload them anyways and you mentioned you'd like to update it quarterly and prefer a "single update", you should consider flashing the full factory images instead of the OTA's. You have to open up a command prompt and run commands anyways (also you would need to if you plan to re-root), the major differences is you run commands in the bootloader mode (than recovery mode) and run a few more commands (fastboot than adb); one other important addition is you MUST remove "-w" from the flash-all script to keep your data -- but that's basically it. Again, this case & opinion only applies if you are sideloading OTA's, un-rooting and implementing the (very fairly slow, although it's been announced it has been more streamlined and process time has been cut down significantly) System Update in the OS would not need you using the adb command (necessarily) and downloading & applying images.
One other thing I might mention since you mention "Pixel OTAs + retain root" (even if it seems you know this info already, but take it as a reminder if that's the case) is you are unable to apply the OTA through System Update if you are rooted as well as once you apply the OTA (or Factory Image), you will lose root; there is (currently) no way to apply the OTA and "retain root" -- it must be re-applied.
As for your inquiry about blocking the OTA check/auto-download, roirraW "edor" ehT touched on the topic and pointed to a post that might be applicable back in post #1318. It might do and/or at least point you in the right direction.
Lastly, yes, sometimes the firmware & OTA updates break things related to root and bypassing root checks, but you can always count on it being reported/discussed here and can keep updated on things and its progress here -- but such is the risk of rooting and keeping the device up-to-date. Depending on the "damage", it's usually dealt with swiftly enough...the great developers that work on aspects of this device, Android OS, and Magisk work ever so diligently...

I could be completely wrong, but I don't believe you need to be unrooted to sideload the OTA; you only need to be unrooted if you plan on using the System Update in the OS. BUT, regardless, in all options, root is lost and must always re-root afterwards. As I said with taysandman, I implore you to seriously consider still updating using the Full Factory images rather than sideloading the OTA merely because the Full Factory is a superior update (@roirraW "edor" ehT explains it best) as well as sideloading the OTA is not that much different or far-fetched from updating using the Full Factory image (both have to download images, open a command prompt, run commands, and you'd have to open/run fastboot to re-root anyway) -- the only big differences is it being done in bootloader mode instead of recovery, fastboot commands instead of adb, and you must modify the flash-all script before running it.


Apologies for the wordiness, but I hope it helps...

Thanks.

I believe your correct it was just downloading OTA which was paused and shouldn't impact OTA side load. Just Google pointing it out made me wonder...

You're right my terminology was wrong. Retain data and re-root.

My only thought on full factory images vs OTAs via phone is that the Nov update showed ~30MB download. Yet looking at factory images over ~2.5GB. That's a big difference to write to nand storage to gain 30MB worth of security updates. So been curious about OTAs to help extend Pixels life. (Haven't actually looked if Google gives any write endurance specs on Pixel.)

However I did end up using Google's chrome flash tool to update to Dec last night. (Factory image) Didn't unroot. Just disable modules and unhide magisk and flash. Upon boot magisk was uninstalled. Re-install Magisk and re-patch init_boot. Re-enable modules. All went well including safetynet. I really do hope the guru devs over at TWRP will grace us with Pixel 7 / 6 support. Image backups help calm the nerves when doing system updates. :)

Regarding root after update I briefly read a few guides I believe mentioning "keeping root" with update. Pre-downloading the factory image + init_boot patch. Then re-packing factory image's zip to include patched init_boot. Allegedly flashing all in single update.

Thanks for suggestions. I'll explore roirraW "edor" #1318 to completely disable auto OTAs.

Coming from VZW note 8 which had to stay on Android 7 for last 5+ yrs to keep root. So quite rusty on these OTA things. :)
 

waldoud

Senior Member
May 30, 2016
73
10
Hello everyone, I have a question, what difference would there be between the uk and the global, can this version change be done?
 

simplepinoi177

Forum Moderator
Staff member
My only thought on full factory images vs OTAs via phone is that the Nov update showed ~30MB download. Yet looking at factory images over ~2.5GB. That's a big difference to write to nand storage to gain 30MB worth of security updates. So been curious about OTAs to help extend Pixels life. (Haven't actually looked if Google gives any write endurance specs on Pixel.
As I understood the twitter post roirraW "edor" ehT posted about in post #1438, OTA's can be more than the simple size (~30MB in this instance) it posts in the System Update page in the OS. Updating through OTA can take painstakingly long; it felt like 30 minutes when I did it once on my wife's unrooted phone. Also, (according to the twitter post) it seems to depend a lot on its compression when it comes to processing. Depending on your internet speed, if you can download the 2.5GB relatively quickly (Google's servers have always been lightening in my experience), flashing the full factory is faster than the device slowly downloading the 30MB (I don't know why it took so long to download the 30MB) and then uncompressing and then installing/processing the OTA update. Running the flash-all on the Full Factory Image is usually finished in under 2 minutes (in my experience, YMMV). Also, it's not like you have to load the 2.5GB on the phone, just on your computer. Also, again, @roirraW "edor" ehT explains it best on how flashing and laying down the whole system image as an update is better than incrementally applying little patches over time. In one update it might just be 30MB worth of updates/changes, but after (let's say 4) months of around 30MB here and there, it adds up to 120MB months of incremental and intermittent data being patched here and there in variable places. Sorry I'm not explaining it well, i'm hoping the rode warrior can...
Regarding root after update I briefly read a few guides I believe mentioning "keeping root" with update. Pre-downloading the factory image + init_boot patch. Then re-packing factory image's zip to include patched init_boot. Allegedly flashing all in single update.

I think I've seen something like that; but from what I can recall on the instance I saw it, it was for a specific circumstance of attempting to repair a messed up partition and/or it was just put up in theory as a thought experiment. Now, I could be completely wrong so I hope some expert would come and correct me if I am, but I recall momentarily seeing that when running the flash-all command process, it checks and "validates" the partitions on the device and it may check it against the image files in the Factory Image zip. If I'm correct and that's true (again, I am completely guessing and could be completely wrong and hope an expert would correct if I am), then messing with the init_boot image file and changing it from what is stock may incur some bad juju; in my head I imagine it akin to checksums not matching. I dunno, just a thought/guess/concern 🤷‍♂️

In any case, I'm happy it all worked out for you and I'm glad I could help some...

Hello everyone, I have a question, what difference would there be between the uk and the global, can this version change be done?
If you had already flashed the global and wished to flash the UK one (or vice-versa), as I understand it, you can simply dirty-flash it over whatever is already installed/flashed. For November, I flashed/installed the Global, but wanted to install the Verizon one, and was told & able to just flash the Verizon one over the Global one with no issues.
If you are asking for a complete explanation on the difference between the two, that's a different question I am willing to let someone else answer ;)
 
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linuxares

Senior Member
Aug 5, 2010
175
91
Hi!

Anyone know why with the OTAs my phone won't even start installing/downloading them? It like instantly "nopes" when I try to download.

I have no clue why since it doesn't give me any information what have gone wrong.

EDIT: I run the Telia version for November so might be why?

EDIT2: Found the issue. Magisk init_boot wasn't loved by the OTA updater. Restored the image file now it OTA updates.
 

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proxyx

Member
Oct 5, 2020
9
5
After flashing Q1A.221205.011 to slot A on my P7P, I attempted to flash the same to slot B. However, when I attempt to do so and issue the "fastboot reboot bootloader "command, the P7P hangs at a black screen and eventually reboots to slot A. Im never able to flash-all on slot B because I can't get to it. Is this recoverable? Seems like without slot B i run the risk of a bricked device if something were to happen to slot A.
 

Lughnasadh

Senior Member
Mar 23, 2015
6,174
7,673
Google Nexus 5
Huawei Nexus 6P
After flashing Q1A.221205.011 to slot A on my P7P, I attempted to flash the same to slot B. However, when I attempt to do so and issue the "fastboot reboot bootloader "command, the P7P hangs at a black screen and eventually reboots to slot A. Im never able to flash-all on slot B because I can't get to it. Is this recoverable? Seems like without slot B i run the risk of a bricked device if something were to happen to slot A.
What commands and in what order are you giving?

This should work:

Code:
adb reboot bootloader
fastboot --set-active=b (Since you are currently on slot a)
fastboot getvar current-slot (To confirm you are now on slot b)
flash-all.bat
 
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proxyx

Member
Oct 5, 2020
9
5
What commands and in what order are you giving?

This should work:

Code:
adb reboot bootloader
fastboot --set-active=b (Since you are currently on slot a)
fastboot getvar current-slot (To confirm you are now on slot b)
flash-all.bat
Yes that's the order of operations that I performed. I just tried the following:

Code:
adb reboot bootloader
fastboot --set-active=b
fastboot continue

and that gave a black screen and I noticed a couple of times a line flashed at the bottom of the screen then it eventually rebooted to slot A. Is slot B corrupted? If so, any way to recover?
 

proxyx

Member
Oct 5, 2020
9
5
Yes that's the order of operations that I performed. I just tried the following:

Code:
adb reboot bootloader
fastboot --set-active=b
fastboot continue

and that gave a black screen and I noticed a couple of times a line flashed at the bottom of the screen then it eventually rebooted to slot A. Is slot B corrupted? If so, any way to recover?
Got it to flash. Thank you very much for your input!
 
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Lughnasadh

Senior Member
Mar 23, 2015
6,174
7,673
Google Nexus 5
Huawei Nexus 6P
Yes that's the order of operations that I performed. I just tried the following:

Code:
adb reboot bootloader
fastboot --set-active=b
fastboot continue

and that gave a black screen and I noticed a couple of times a line flashed at the bottom of the screen then it eventually rebooted to slot A. Is slot B corrupted? If so, any way to recover?
So you did exactly the commands I gave you?
 

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  • 3
    Solution to my issue : flashing patched boot on slot a. Since i have my 7Pro, i always flash on slot b. Auto-update has probably change slot.
    So, if you are in the same case, you have to flash your Patched boot on the other slot.
    3
    Also related to this, I too use gestures but I hate the home bar/pill, so I hide it with Iconify or Fullscreen/Immersive Gestures module.

    I'm curious how Circle to Search would be triggered in a scenario like this. There's basically no bar and the space it occupies is also hidden.
    Hello,
    I've done the test. I've hidden the home bar pill with Pixel Expert, and Circle to Search still appear when I press the very bottom zone without the pill
    3
    anyone used this with the April update and root successfully?
    Me
    3
    Solution to my issue : flashing patched boot on slot a. Since i have my 7Pro, i always flash on slot b. Auto-update has probably change slot.
    So, if you are in the same case, you have to flash your Patched boot on the other slot.
    Yes, OTAs always install to the inactive slot. Flashing factory images install to the active slot.
  • 70
    Pixel 7 Pro [Cheetah]

    April 17, 2024:

    For what it's worth, this is apparently the response from Google to someone who asked about the 2nd April update:

    "We're starting to push an update to Pixel 7 and newer phones. This includes network stability and performance improvements. This update will roll out globally to the regions and carriers impacted over the coming weeks."





    Here there be dragons. 🐉 I am not responsible for anything at all. 😹

    VERY IMPORTANT - On the Pixel 7/Pro, we use Magisk to patch init_boot.img, NOT boot.img AND we flash the patched init_boot to the init_boot partition - do not flash it to the boot partition.​

    Thanks to @edcsxz, @Lughnasadh, and @AndyYan for news about that and confirming it.

    Moved @mariusnoor's provided zero-day OTA.zip to Post #8 - Old news from the OP.

    Unlocking or locking the bootloader will wipe the device every single time, so be sure to have your data backed up before doing so, or better yet, just unlock it as soon as you get the device.​

    Keep in mind that unlocking the bootloader or rooting might affect your phone's capability to use banking apps such as Google Pay, your local bank's app, or even the ability to install some apps like NetFlix. See Post #2 - Unlocking Bootloader / Rooting / Updating | SafetyNet | ADB/Fastboot & Windows USB Drivers.​

    If you're going to re-lock the bootloader, make sure the ROM you have on your phone is completely stock (by flashing the latest official firmware) BEFORE re-locking it.​

    There are no permanent negative consequences if you unlock or re-lock the bootloader other than it will wipe your phone, and while your bootloader is unlocked you get a brief screen when you boot the phone telling you (and anyone who sees your phone at the time) that it's unlocked. You will also continue to receive updates (if you've merely unlocked the bootloader, you can take updates as normal) unlike Samsung, Sony, et cetera, which have permanent major consequences with reduced functionality even if you un-root and re-lock your bootloader. If you're actually rooted (not just bootloader unlocked), you'll have to perform extra steps to manually update each month, and to keep root/re-root.

    INDEX:

    • Post #2 - Unlocking Bootloader / Rooting / Updating | Play Integrity / SafetyNet | ADB/Fastboot & Windows USB Drivers:
      • How to Root the first time / aka How to unlock the Bootloader
      • Unlocking Bootloader (required in order to root)
      • How to update each month (and also how to root)
        [requires an unlocked bootloader for updating via this Factory Image / Android Flash Tool method]
        • Factory Image / Android Flash Tool method(requires an unlocked bootloader)
          • OPTIONAL: If you want to flash both slots, after this first time, then after do the following
        • Full OTA Zip method
      • SafetyNet
      • Optional steps when updating - flashing custom kernels
        • The two schools of thought on disabling Verity and Verification
      • ADB/Fastboot and Windows USB Drivers - direct download links and the most recent changelog
    • Post #3 - Other, most important resources:
      • A list of other important apps
      • TWRP [not made for the Pixel 7 (or 6) Pro yet - will update when or if ever it has - don't hold your breath]
      • Factory Images (requires an unlocked bootloader)
      • Full OTA Images(doesn't require an unlocked bootloader - you can ask questions in this thread, but I won't be providing the steps necessary, as I always use the factory image)
        • @mariusnoor's provided official URL to download the zero-day OTA to TD1A.220804.031.
      • Check warranty status
      • Official Google Pixel Update and Software Repair (reported as of January 23, 2022 to still not be updated for the Pixel 6/Pro - no idea if it has yet now, or if it will be for the 7/Pro)
      • Official Google Pixel Install fingerprint calibration software (also available at the bottom of the Update and Software Repair page above) - I believe this is only helpful if you've replaced the screen - if it's anything like the Pixel 6 Pro: if you have the screen replaced, then you *must* have the fingerprint reader replaced as well.
      • Find problem apps, Magisk, and LSposed Modules by (three different methods)
      • Official Google Android Flash Tool (OEM Unlocking needs to be toggled on - you do not have to manually unlock the bootloader - their site will do that on its own)
      • How to determine if you already have Verity and Verification disabled (required for custom kernels for now)
      • How to unroot
    • Post #4 - Build ID definitions
    • Post #5 - Blank
    • Post #6 - Regarding P7P 5G model numbers and capabilities, and how to determine your hardware version
    • Post #7 - My personal advice for how to get your device back up and running as you had it before a factory reset
    • Post #8 - Old news from the OP

    Thank you to the following users who have all contributed greatly to my knowledge of Pixels since I came back to XDA a year ago after a few years of mostly inactivity. Apologies if I miss anybody. In alphabetical order:

    47

    Unlocking Bootloader / Rooting / Updating | Play Integrity / SafetyNet | ADB/Fastboot & Windows USB Drivers

    Unlocking Bootloader / Rooting / Updating:

    How to Root the first time / aka How to unlock the Bootloader:
    Unlocking the bootloader will factory reset your device. There is no way around this. I highly suggest never re-locking your bootloader once you unlock it. If you do ever re-lock the bootloader, only do so after restoring the phone to 100% stock by using the latest Pixel 7 Pro Factory Image or Official Google Android Flash Tool.

    Verizon variants:
    Will never be able to have their bootloader unlocked. It's like winning the lottery, and just as rare and relatively random. There is nothing that anyone on XDA can do to help you unlock your Verizon variant.

    T-Mobile and AT&T variants:
    Can be unlocked once you pay the phone off, then you contact the carrier and arrange to Carrier unlock the phone. Once the phone is Carrier unlocked, then you can unlock the bootloader with the usual caveats (will wipe the device and there's no way around it).

    The direct-from-Google (or other retailers who aren't U.S. Carriers), the factory Carrier Unlocked Pixels:
    Can be bootloader unlocked at any time. I'd try it first before putting a SIM card in the phone. If OEM unlocking is grayed out, try connecting to Wi-Fi, and reboot if necessary. If it's still grayed out, try with your SIM card, and reboot again. Historically on Pixels, most of the time you can toggle OEM unlocking immediately, but occasionally some users have found it took a little while after being either connected to Wi-Fi or having your SIM card installed in it, and then eventually (hours? day? days?) you can toggle OEM unlocking.

    The rest of the world's carriers:
    No idea. Feel free to ask in the thread and hopefully, someone with specific knowledge will answer.

    Other than trying the things I mentioned above, there is nothing else that anyone on XDA can do to help get OEM unlocking to be ungrayed.

    Unlocking Bootloader (required in order to root)
    The one-time first steps are:
    1. Android Settings
    2. About phone
    3. Click on Build number repeatedly, about seven times
    4. Go back to the main Android Settings
    5. System
    6. Developer options
      • Toggle OEM unlocking on. See @Namelesswonder's tip below (this won't help with variants that are supposed to be bootloader locked):
        Also a little tip for anyone trying to enable OEM unlocking on a device and it is grayed out, you can force the phone to check for eligibility by connecting to the internet in whatever way, going to the dialer, and dialing *#*#2432546#*#* (CHECKIN).
        You should receive a notification from Google Play services with "checkin succeeded" and OEM unlocking should be available immediately if the device is eligible.
        Google account not needed, SIM not needed, no other setup required. Works on completely-skipped-setup-wizard. Just need to make sure to connect to the internet and select the connection as metered to avoid any updates.
      • Toggle USB debugging on.
      • [Optional] I highly suggest you also disable Automatic system updates. Note that in a situation such as the Android 12 serious bootloader security issue, this setting will not keep Google from forcing an update to come through anyway.
    7. How to actually root follows the same steps below as how to update each month.
    8. Download the latest ADB/Fastboot (SDK Platform Tools) and Windows USB Drivers.
    9. Unzip the Platform Tools and Drivers.
    10. NOTE: If you have USB drivers for other Android devices installed, like Samsung, they can alternately sometimes work and not work with Google Pixels. I recommend uninstalling those drivers, or at least updating that driver to Google's driver as instructed below (the Device Manager entry may be different with other OEMs).​

    11. The Windows USB Drivers may have to be installed twice:
      • The first time while your phone is running and unlocked as normal.
        1. In Windows, right-click on the Start Button and choose Device Manager.
        2. Plug your phone into the computer and look for the new hardware entry in Device Manager. Near the top of Device Manager should be Android Device. Click the drop-down arrow to the left of it.
        3. Below Android Device, it should now show Android Composite ADB Interface
        4. Right-click the Android Composite ADB Interface and choose Update driver
        5. Choose Browse my computer for drivers
        6. Click Browse and navigate to where you unzipped the Windows USB drivers to.
        7. Follow the prompts to install the driver.
        8. Keep Device Manager itself open - you'll need it again in a minute, but you can close any other Device Manager windows after you have installed the driver.
        9. Open a Command Prompt and navigate to the platform-tools folder.
        10. Run command:
          Code:
          adb devices
        11. On your Android device, you'll get an ADB prompt. Check the box to always give ADB permission and click OK.
        12. Confirm that the command results in a list of Android devices. When doing these producedures, you should only have the one device you want to work on connected, to keep things simple.
      • The second time to install the driver is while the phone is in Bootloader (fastboot mode), notFastbootD (fastbootd) mode. I know it's confusing.
        • Run command:
          Code:
          adb reboot bootloader
        • Repeat the instructions above starting with "Right-click the Android Composite ADB Interface".
          • This second time installing the drivers while in Bootloader (fastboot mode), it will show up as "Android Bootloader Interface". Thanks @simplepinoi177 for the suggestion to add this detail.
    12. Run command:
      Code:
      fastboot flashing unlock
    13. On the phone, press either the up or down volume button once until you see Unlock the bootloader |>| beside the power button.
    14. Press the power button. The phone will go black for a second and then show near the bottom Device state: unlocked.
    15. After these first-time steps to unlock the bootloader, if you want to root, continue below at the step:

    NOTE that as @Lughnasadh has previously found and reported, both the factory image method using Flash-All.Bat, and the Official Google Android Flash Tool (webpage) cause only the most recently flashed slot to boot. If you want both slots to be bootable, you want the Full OTA Zip method a couple of sections down in this post.
    And it's a double warning if the device is brand new, the secondary slot does not even get into bootloader (because it is blank) if the active slot is becomes not bootable, automatic switching to the secondary slot bricks the device (no bootloop).
    At least with factory image flashed on both slots, even if the primary slot is not system bootable, you get bootlooped and you can flash again.
    Old habits are hard to break, specially if people never had issues with it in the past and are comfortable with the steps (I see a lot of people still doing factory flashing), for the very least if one chooses to stick with factory flashing, both slots should be flashed, specially with a brand new device.
    Although that is still a very high risk for brand new devices because anything goes bad it's likely to end up with a brick.
    OTA instructions should be the dominant guides, and factory would be used for downgrade (with a wipe).

    How to update each month (and also how to root)

    [requires an unlocked bootloader for updating via this factory image method, and for the Full OTA method if you're rooting]
    • These three instructions only apply if you're already rooted and updating from one firmware version to another:
      • Made sure all Magisk Modules have been updated.
      • Disable all Magisk Modules.
      • UNhide Magisk!
    1. If you are going to use the Official Google Android Flash Tool, then skip the steps I indicate with FAB(Flash-All.Bat).
      • If using the Android Flash Tool to update/dirty flash, you should have the following items notselected:
        • Deselect Wipe
        • Deselect Force Flash all partitions (which will also wipe)
        • Deselect re-lock bootloader
    2. Always use the latest ADB/Fastboot (SDK Platform Tools) and Windows USB Drivers.
    3. Unzip the Platform Tools.
    4. At this point, if you're going to use the Full OTA Zip method, go to the:
      Full OTA Zip method
      section below the next section.
    Factory Image / Android Flash Tool method:
    1. Download the latest Pixel 7 Pro Factory Image (at the bottom of the "cheetah" section).
    2. Unzip the factory image to the same platform-tools folder, i.e. so that flash-all.bat and all other files are in the same folder as ADB and Fastboot from the platform-tools.
    3. * FAB VERY important - Edit the flash-all.bat (on Windows) or flash-all.sh (on Linux) and remove the -w from the fastboot update image-cheetah-etcetera.zip line. This will keep the script from wiping your phone when you run it.
    4. Extract only the init_boot.img file from the image-cheetah-etcetera.zip to the same platform-tools folder.
    5. Copy the init_boot.img from the PC to the phone's internal storage.
    6. On the phone: Apply Magisk Stable to the new stock init_boot.img. NOTE: It is always possible that an Android Update (Monthly, QPR [Quarterly Platform Release], new major Android versions, and Beta versions) might need a new version of Magisk Stable, Beta, or Canary from GitHub to work correctly. XDA forum for Magisk is here.
      • Launch the Magisk app.
      • Beside "Magisk", click "Install".
      • Click "Select and Patch a File", and choose the init_boot.img that you just copied to the phone's storage.
    7. Copy the Magisk'd init_boot.img (filename similar to magisk_patched-25200_1a2B3c.img)back over to the computer.
    8. * FAB Run commands:
      Code:
      adb reboot bootloader
      flash-all.bat (on Windows)
      or
      flash-all.sh (on Linux)
      
      (Note:  At least two Apple Macintosh users had trouble using the flash-all.sh - at least one of those users, everything went smooth once they used a Windows PC for this part of the process)

      IMPORTANT - The flash-all will take several minutes and reboot on its own several times including to a mode called "FastbootD", and finally reboot into full Android when it's done. Do not interrupt this process. On the FastbootD screen on the phone, do not use any of the manual selection options - let the flash-all script do it's work. Do not unplug your phone until it has fully booted into Android.​

      Thanks to @PurppleMonkey and @xgerryx for suggesting a warning about this. Thanks to @simplepinoi177 for suggesting the "FastbootD" clarification.
    9. On the phone:
      • Wait for the phone to boot normally.
      • OPTIONAL: If you want to flash both slots, after this first time, then after do the following:

        • Code:
          adb reboot bootloader
          fastboot --set-active=other
          flash-all.bat
        So you're doing the flash-all.bat a second time on the second slot.
    10. On the computer:
      • Open a Command Prompt and navigate to the platform-tools folder.
      • Run command:
        Code:
        adb reboot bootloader
      • After phone has rebooted into Bootloader (Fastboot) mode, run command:
        Code:
        fastboot flash init_boot magisk_patched-25200_1a2B3c.img
        fastboot reboot
    11. Unlock the phone.
    12. Confirm that the phone boots completely normally.
    13. Cautiously re-enable Magisk Modules.
    14. Reboot.
    15. Confirm everything worked fine.
    16. If the phone won't boot correctly after having enabled Magisk Modules, see either of the two solutions below:
      • For the future, you don't need to go into safe mode unless that's your preference. I forgot what all it resets, but it's many settings and it's bothersome. I'd rather just reinstall my modules and not have to figure out those Android settings/changes which I come across days or weeks later when I infrequently do something. Have your phone reboot and run this:
        Code:
        adb wait-for-device shell magisk --remove-modules
        I like to just do this first:
        Code:
        adb devices
        So the server is running, then I have the long one pasted and ready to go once the phone turns off.
      • Find problem apps, Magisk, and LSposed Modules by (three different methods) section in my next post. After following that link, you may have to scroll up a little bit and the section title will be highlighted.

    Full OTA Zip method:
    These instructions assume that you've already followed the directions for unlocking your bootloader (closer to the top of this post), which includes installing the necessary drivers and platform-tools.

    NOTE that it's optional to flash the Magisk'd (rooted) init_boot.img. You can flash it to both slots, you can flash it to just one slot if you need an unrooted copy of Android.

    Because of some details of how the factory image zip method works, you can't use that method twice (switching slots) to update both slots AND be able to switch slots. Only one slot will work.

    This Full OTA method will allow you to boot either slot.

    Thanks to @Lughnasadh and @badabing2003 for testing, detailing, and refining the steps. Thanks especially to @Lughnasadh for proof-reading these steps and giving great suggestions, and making me aware of options I didn't know about.

    1. [ONLY if you already had your phone rooted before] UN-hide Magisk on the phone.
    2. [ONLY if you already had your phone rooted before] Disable all Magisk Modules just in case they're not compatible with and cause a bootloop on the new firmware
    3. There are three ways to get the init_boot.img:
      • You can download the latest factory image zip from the bottom of the "cheetah" section, but that's a lot of wasted download for just the init_boot.img. In the factory image zip, the init_boot.img is inside the inner zip that's inside the zip you download. Put the init_boot.img in the same folder as the extracted platform-tools.
      • The more effecient method is to extract the init_boot.img out of the payload.bin file, which is inside the Full OTA zip:
        • Use @ssssut's (XDA thread [TOOL] A QUICK Android OTA payload dumper) OR directly from GitHub.
        • At the GitHub link, click the Releases link at the far right, down the screen a bit.
        • Download the latest payload dumper in the Assets section for the latest release, appropriate to whichever platform you're going to run it on. For Windows, you'll likely want the .tar.gz archive that ends in windows_amd64.
        • I use the free 7-Zip to extract the .tar.gz. I use it for zips, too. I use it for everything with rare exception.
        • Extract the payload dumper to the same folder you have ADB, Fastboot, and the OTA zip.
        • Extract the payload.bin out of the OTA zip.
        • Open a Command Prompt while in the same folder as the ADB, Fastboot, OTA zip, payload.bin, and payload dumper.
        • payload-dumper-go.exe -p init_boot -o . payload.bin
        • The period . after -o will cause it to put init_boot.img in the same folder as where you're running the command in.
      • Possibly the easiest way to get the init_boot.img out of the payload.bin (and patch it at the same time), and still two variations of this particular solution: Magisk does all the work.
        • Your choice - either copy the entire Full OTA zip, OR just the payload.bin from the zip to your phone.
    4. OPTIONAL - if you need to disable Verity and Verification (for custom kernels that require it), then use either of the first two init_boot.img extraction methods above for the vbmeta.img, substituting the correct partition/image name, as appropriate.
    5. If one of the first two methods were used (factory image zip OR using payload dumper on the payload.bin), copy the init_boot.img to your phone.
    6. Continue here for all methods:
      • Launch Magisk.
      • To the right of "Magisk", click "Install".
      • Click "Select and Patch a File"
      • Find and click on either the Full OTA zip, payload.bin, OR init_boot.img, depending on which method you decided to use.
      • As appropriate, Magisk extracts and generates the Magisk-patched init_boot.img.
      • Copy the Magisk'd init_boot.img back to the PC.
    7. adb reboot sideload
    8. adb sideload cheetah-ota-AB#a.YYMMDD.##-blah.zip
    9. Choose recovery menu optionreboot to bootloader
    10. OPTIONAL - if you need to disable Verity and Verification (for custom kernels that require it):
      • fastboot --disable-verity --disable-verification flash vbmeta vbmeta.img
    11. fastboot flash init_boot Magisk'd_init_boot.img
      • If your Magisk'd init_boot.img filename has spaces in it, then use Quotes " " around it:
      • fastboot flash init_boot "Magisk'd init_boot.img"
    12. Temporarily boot into the newly updated/rooted slot, to test to make sure it boots and all seems normal:
      • fastboot reboot
      • Unlock your phone to be assured things are working satisfactorily.
    13. The rest (except fastboot reboot at the end) is optional, if you want to update the other slot.
    14. NOTE that it it NOT necessary to tell the phone to change slots. Each time you flash the OTA, the phone changes slots already.
    15. adb reboot sideload
    16. adb sideload cheetah-ota-AB#a.YYMMDD.##-blah.zip
    17. Choose recovery menu optionreboot to bootloader
    18. OPTIONAL - if you need to disable Verity and Verification (for custom kernels that require it):
      • fastboot --disable-verity --disable-verification flash vbmeta vbmeta.img
    19. fastboot flash init_boot Magisk'd_init_boot.img
      • If your Magisk'd init_boot.img filename has spaces in it, then use Quotes " " around it:
      • fastboot flash init_boot "Magisk'd init_boot.img"
    20. fastboot reboot
    21. Unlock the phone.
    22. Confirm that the phone boots completely normally.
    23. Cautiously re-enable Magisk Modules.
    24. Reboot.
    25. Confirm everything worked fine.
    26. If the phone won't boot correctly after having enabled Magisk Modules, see either of the two solutions below:
      • For the future, you don't need to go into safe mode unless that's your preference. I forgot what all it resets, but it's many settings and it's bothersome. I'd rather just reinstall my modules and not have to figure out those Android settings/changes which I come across days or weeks later when I infrequently do something. Have your phone reboot and run this:
        Code:
        adb wait-for-device shell magisk --remove-modules
        I like to just do this first:
        Code:
        adb devices
        So the server is running, then I have the long one pasted and ready to go once the phone turns off.
      • Find problem apps, Magisk, and LSposed Modules by (three different methods) section in my next post. After following that link, you may have to scroll up a little bit and the section title will be highlighted.

    If you ever need to switch slots, then from running Android:
    Code:
    adb reboot bootloader
    fastboot --set-active=other
    fastboot reboot

    Play Integrity / SafetyNet:

    You do not need more than one of these:
    and
    • I haven't actually used the second one by osm0sis, so I don't know for sure, but I use the first one by chiteroman, combined with:


    • Also for reference, @simplepinoi177's thread How to search & find your own fingerprints [noob friendly]: A Comprehensive Guide w/ tips & Discussion for Complete Noobs (from one)
    • Launch the Magisk app.
    • Go to Magisk's Settings (Gear in top right).
      • Click Hide the Magisk app.
      • When you hide it, you'll have the optional opportunity to change the Magisk app's name to whatever you wish. It doesn't have to be complex to fool apps that check for Magisk.
      • Important: When you have the Magisk app hidden or renamed, you can accidentally install a new copy of Magisk. This situation won't work at all - neither copy of Magisk will work with two installed. This is one reason why I don't completely hide Magisk, so I can tell it's installed because I have it renamed as something easily recognizable.
      • Back to the Magisk app's Settings...
      • Click Systemless hosts. This adds a Magisk Module to Magisk, which you can verify in a later step.
      • Toggle Zygisk on.
      • Toggle Enforce DenyList on.
      • Click Configure DenyList.
        • Add every app that you want to explicitly deny root and the existence of root.
        • You can click the 3-dot menu and choose the options to display system and/or OS apps, if necessary.
        • Note that for many apps, it is not enough to click the single checkmark to the right of the app name in this list. For many but not all apps, you should click on the app name and you'll see it expand to two or more entries, each with its own toggles. In this expanded state, you can now check the single top checkbox beside the main app name and it'll toggle all individual sub-entries.
        • Some apps add new entries to this list from time to time, so if you find that an app used to work for you when rooted and doesn't now, check this list again and look for the entries that aren't fully checked. There will be an incomplete horizontal line above the apps that don't have all of their sub-entries toggled.
        • You can use the Search button at the top of this list to find specific apps quickly.
        • The most common apps you should definitely fully check in this list are:
          • IMPORTANT - There are some things, such as Google Play Services which it's fine to add to the DenyList, but it's perfectly normal when used in combination with the Universal SafetyNet Fix (USNF) that it is back to being unchecked the next time you visit the DenyList. Since USNF takes care of Google Play Services, you don't even have to add it to the DenyList in the first place.​

          • Google Play Store
          • Google Services Framework
          • Google Play Protect Service
          • Wallet
          • GPay
          • Any banking apps.
          • Any streaming apps that use DRM.
          • Any 2FA apps, especially those for work.
          • Some of those Google apps might not need denying, but it doesn't hurt to deny them.
          • Any time you toggle more entries in this list, it may be necessary to reboot the phone for it to take effect.
    • From the main screen in the Magisk app, go to Modules at the bottom.
    • Confirm that the Systemless hosts Magisk Module is added to this list, and enabled.
    • Install the appropriate Magisk Module: Universal SafetyNet Fix referenced above these numbered instructions.
    • Reboot.
    • Go to the Play Store/Settings/General/About and tap the Version 4 times til the Dev Options for the Play Store Opens, then back out.
      Go to those new Dev Options and check integrity there.
      The Play Integrity pop-up that appears should say:
      [MEETS_BASIC_INTEGRITY, MEETS_DEVICE_INTEGRITY]
      • Sometimes, clearing app cache and/or data for apps like the Google Play Store, GPay, Wallet and others (and then rebooting) after these steps may help pass SafetyNet as well.
      • Did you try clearing cache and data in Wallet, GPay, Play Services, Google Framework, make sure SELinux is Enforcing??
        Also I have the Deny List enabled.
    • See @V0latyle's explanation (and further linked post) for why we can't achieve STRONG_INTEGRITY with an unlocked bootloader.
    • See @V0latyle's [DISCUSSION] Play Integrity API regarding why SafetyNet, per se, is actually defunct and replaced with Play Integrity - and New Official Universal SafetyNet Fix released by @kdrag0n v2.4.0 referenced in the steps above takes care of the latter.

    Optional steps when updating - flashing custom kernels:
    • Download the custom kernel of choice on the phone.
      • Be sure to read the particular installation instructions in the kernel threads' OP - any instructions in their OPs takes priority over anything I say here, which is generalized.​

        How to determine if you already have Verity and Verification disabled - see section in Post #3 - Other, most important resources
      • The two schools of thought on disabling Verity and Verification:
        • My post here. If you want to discuss it any, please do so in my thread, or at least not in that custom kernel thread, so as to keep the thread on-topic.
    • Extract the vbmeta.img file from the inner Zip of the factory image zip and put it in the same folder with the extracted platform-tools.
    • Hook the phone up to your computer and run the following commands:

      • Code:
        adb reboot bootloader
        [wait for the phone to reboot to bootloader (fastboot mode)]
        Code:
        fastboot flash vbmeta vbmeta.img --disable-verity
        fastboot reboot
    • Unlock the phone once it's booted up.
    • Make sure the Kernel Flasher app is up to date. XDA thread for the Kernel Flasher app is here.
    • Launch Kernel Flasher.
    • Select the slot that's mounted.
    • Choose Flash AK3 Zip.
    • Select the custom kernel zip just downloaded.
    • When it's done flashing, head to Android Settings and perform a Factory Reset, as is currently needed for Despair kernel.
    • If you failed to disable Verity and Verification ahead of time, if you have to, just force the phone off using these instructions: Turn your Pixel phone on & off, then press the Volume Down and Power buttons for a couple of seconds to get into the bootloader (fastboot mode). You'll still have to factory reset after disabling Verity in combination with this kernel, for now.
    • Whenever you use the flash-all to flash your phone, as long as you want to continue to disable Verity and Verification, you'll have to further modify the flash-all script as such:

      • Code:
        fastboot update image-husky-buildnumber.zip --disable-verity --disable-verification

    A relevant excerpt from @Freak07's Pixel 7 Pro Kirisakura custom kernel thread:
    F.A.Q:

    Question: How do I disable the vbmeta flags for verity/verification?
    Answer: The easiest solution is to use the android web flash tool and tick the correct checkbox.
    Alternatively extract the vbmeta.img from the matching factory image and flash it in fastboot via:
    Code:
    fastboot --disable-verity --disable-verification flash vbmeta vbmeta.img
    Please note that disabling those flags will require a full wipe for the device to boot if coming from flags enabled state!
    And a further note: You need to repeat this command every time you flash a full firmware zip ( a factory image or a full OTA.zip) to update the firmware of your phone as those contain a vbmeta image. Otherwise the flags will be reset to default enabled and it will require another wipe to disable them again! As with the firmware.zips, you need to tick the checkbox in the webflasher every month you update your phone or flash a firmware there!

    IF you forget to disable Verity and Verification:
    Verity enabled -> Verity disabled will require a wipe (every single time)
    Verity disabled -> Verity enabled does not require a wipe, but if this happened because you forgot to keep it disabled, then you would need to disable it again and it will require a wipe.

    Another caveat that you should be careful about, these devices have two slots, you might end up disabling verity on one slot, switch to the other intentionally or unintentionally which has it enabled, you can't switch back without a wipe.

    Hence why it is advisable that the very first time you want to disable Verity, you do the following.

    Code:
    adb reboot bootloader
    fastboot --slot all --verbose --disable-verity --disable-verification flash vbmeta vbmeta.img
    fastboot -w
    fastboot reboot

    This will disable verity on both slots, perform the wipe and bring your to OOBE
    At this point do what you want, and making sure that each time you keep Verity disabled.

    My own words:
    If you forget to disable Verity and Verification, then if you don't actually try to boot the phone, you can disable them and no factory reset will be required.

    If you forget to disable them, and you do try to boot the phone, then yes, you'll have to factory reset.

    Note that disabling or not disabling them doesn't actually wipe your device, no matter what. It's a small difference, but rather, they corrupt (or report as corrupt) your device until you wipe it manually (although that's not the only cause of corruption messages, and in at least one other case, a different solution is required).

    I have chosen to never disable them, but that's my personal preference. I have one or two accidents a year anyway where I forget some step on my phone, without having to worry about disabling them.

    I am hoping that the method that has been found recently on the Pixel 7 Pro, to not need to disable them for custom kernels that implement the fix, will apply to the Pixel 8 Pro, too. If not, then I won't be using custom kernels. Nothing against anyone at all, especially the Developers. I'm just too clumsy. :)

    Optional steps when updating - flashing custom kernels:
    • Download the custom kernel of choice on the phone.
      • Be sure to read the particular installation instructions in the kernel threads' OP - any instructions in their OPs takes priority over anything I say here, which is generalized.​

        How to determine if you already have Verity and Verification disabled - see section in Post #3 - Other, most important resources
      • The two schools of thought on disabling Verity and Verification:
        • My post here. If you want to discuss it any, please do so in my thread, or at least not in that custom kernel thread, so as to keep the thread on-topic.
    • Extract the vbmeta.img file from the inner Zip of the factory image zip and put it in the same folder with the extracted platform-tools.
    • Hook the phone up to your computer and run the following commands:

      • Code:
        adb reboot bootloader
        [wait for the phone to reboot to bootloader (fastboot mode)]
        Code:
        fastboot flash vbmeta vbmeta.img --disable-verity
        fastboot reboot
    • Unlock the phone once it's booted up.
    • Make sure the Kernel Flasher app is up to date. XDA thread for the Kernel Flasher app is here.
    • Launch Kernel Flasher.
    • Select the slot that's mounted.
    • Choose Flash AK3 Zip.
    • Select the custom kernel zip just downloaded.
    • When it's done flashing, head to Android Settings and perform a Factory Reset, as is currently needed for Despair kernel.
    • If you failed to disable Verity and Verification ahead of time, if you have to, just force the phone off using these instructions: Turn your Pixel phone on & off, then press the Volume Down and Power buttons for a couple of seconds to get into the bootloader (fastboot mode). You'll still have to factory reset after disabling Verity in combination with this kernel, for now.
    • Whenever you use the flash-all to flash your phone, as long as you want to continue to disable Verity and Verification, you'll have to further modify the flash-all script as such:

      • Code:
        fastboot update image-cheetah-buildnumber.zip --disable-verity --disable-verification

    A relevant excerpt from @Freak07's Pixel 7 Pro Kirisakura custom kernel thread:
    F.A.Q:

    Question: How do I disable the vbmeta flags for verity/verification?
    Answer: The easiest solution is to use the android web flash tool and tick the correct checkbox.
    Alternatively extract the vbmeta.img from the matching factory image and flash it in fastboot via:
    Code:
    fastboot --disable-verity --disable-verification flash vbmeta vbmeta.img
    Please note that disabling those flags will require a full wipe for the device to boot if coming from flags enabled state!
    And a further note: You need to repeat this command every time you flash a full firmware zip ( a factory image or a full OTA.zip) to update the firmware of your phone as those contain a vbmeta image. Otherwise the flags will be reset to default enabled and it will require another wipe to disable them again! As with the firmware.zips, you need to tick the checkbox in the webflasher every month you update your phone or flash a firmware there!

    IF you forget to disable Verity and Verification:
    Verity enabled -> Verity disabled will require a wipe (every single time)
    Verity disabled -> Verity enabled does not require a wipe, but if this happened because you forgot to keep it disabled, then you would need to disable it again and it will require a wipe.

    Another caveat that you should be careful about, these devices have two slots, you might end up disabling verity on one slot, switch to the other intentionally or unintentionally which has it enabled, you can't switch back without a wipe.

    Hence why it is advisable that the very first time you want to disable Verity, you do the following.

    Code:
    adb reboot bootloader
    fastboot --slot all --verbose --disable-verity --disable-verification flash vbmeta vbmeta.img
    fastboot -w
    fastboot reboot

    This will disable verity on both slots, perform the wipe and bring your to OOBE
    At this point do what you want, and making sure that each time you keep Verity disabled.

    My own words:
    If you forget to disable Verity and Verification, then if you don't actually try to boot the phone, you can disable them and no factory reset will be required.

    If you forget to disable them, and you do try to boot the phone, then yes, you'll have to factory reset.

    Note that disabling or not disabling them doesn't actually wipe your device, no matter what. It's a small difference, but rather, they corrupt (or report as corrupt) your device until you wipe it manually (although that's not the only cause of corruption messages, and in at least one other case, a different solution is required).

    I have chosen to never disable them, but that's my personal preference. I have one or two accidents a year anyway where I forget some step on my phone, without having to worry about disabling them.

    I am hoping that the method that has been found recently on the Pixel 7 Pro, to not need to disable them for custom kernels that implement the fix, will apply to the Pixel 7 Pro, too. If not, then I won't be using custom kernels. Nothing against anyone at all, especially the Developers. I'm just too clumsy. :)

    ADB/Fastboot & Windows USB Drivers:

    You'll need this if you're going to unlock the bootloader on your Pixel 7 Pro: SDK Platform Tools (download links for Windows, Mac, and Linux). Note that you can find links to download the tools elsewhere, but I wouldn't trust them - you never know if they've been modified. Even if the person providing the link didn't do anything intentionally, the tools could be modified without them being aware. Why take a chance of putting your phone security further at risk?
    For Windows, get Google's drivers here Get the Google USB Driver (ADB will likely work while the phone is fully booted, but if you're like me, you'll need these drivers for after you adb reboot-bootloader, to be able to use ADB and Fastboot.
    33
    Please test this UNSF build. Should be passing basic/device integrity.

    Use updated version from main post instead
    25

    Other, most important resources


    A list of other important apps: - be sure to thank the respective OPs:

    How to unroot
    One of these two options:
    1. Official Google Android Flash Tool (OEM Unlocking needs to be toggled on - you do not have to manually unlock the bootloader - their site will do that on its own).
      Select the options to:
      • Wipe
      • Force flash all partitions
      • Re-lock bootloader
    2. Flash the completely stock init_boot.img from the same firmware version that you're on:
      Code:
      adb reboot bootloader
      fastboot flash init_boot init_boot.img

    TWRP [not made for the Pixel 7 (or 6) Pro yet - will update when or if ever it has - don't hold your breath]
    I would guess that this should be the appropriate URL for official TWRP custom recovery for the Pixel 7 Pro, but who knows when/if that will actually be made available, and it may become available unofficially in these forum sections before being made official. I'll adjust this URL as needed. https://twrp.me/google/googlepixel7pro.html.

    Factory Images (requires an unlocked bootloader)
    It's also handy to have to the full official firmware available, whether it's to recover from accidents or for actual development. Note the official link to the general Factory Images for Nexus and Pixel Devices page. The following link goes directly to the Pixel 7 Pro (Cheetah) section: Pixel 7 Pro Factory Images. I prefer to actually bookmark a link to the device listed immediately below the device I want the firmware for, because Google dumbly (in my opinion) puts the latest firmware at the bottom of the list for each particular device, and that ends up making you scroll a lot after a year or two of monthly updates.

    Full OTA Images (doesn't require an unlocked bootloader - you can ask questions in this thread, but I won't be providing the steps necessary, as I always use the factory image)

    Check warranty status - *may* reveal if a phone is refurbished, only if the phone was refurbished through Google - thanks to @Alekos for making me aware of the site.

    Official Google Pixel Update and Software Repair (reported as of January 23, 2022 to still not be updated for the Pixel 6/Pro - no idea if it has yet now, or if it will be for the 7/Pro)

    Official Google Pixel Install fingerprint calibration software (also available at the bottom of the Update and Software Repair page above) - I believe this is only helpful if you've replaced the screen - if it's anything like the Pixel 6 Pro: if you have the screen replaced, then you *must* have the fingerprint reader replaced as well.

    Find problem apps, Magisk, and LSposed Modules by (three different methods):
    1. Magisk Safe Mode.
      • This can be a lifesaver and keep you from having to do a restore to 100% complete stock or even from having to do a factory reset. This will deactivate all Magisk modules, and they'll remain deactivated even after you boot normally after briefly booting to safe mode. You can re-enable the Magisk modules as you wish to try to narrow down the problem if it was caused by a Magisk module. This can even get things working again after a Magisk Module wasn't finished installing and potentially causing a bootloop.
      • It has been pointed out to me (thank you, @Lughnasadh!) that Google's Help Page for Find problem apps by rebooting to safe mode only gets you into System Safe Mode, not Magisk Safe Mode.
      • One of the Alpha developers (I don't know which one): "Many people wait for the animation to appear before pressing keys. They are misled by the documentation into thinking that system safe mode will trigger magisk safe mode. This is wrong, the time is wrong.

        For safe mode to be recognized before the module is loaded, magisk must detect keystrokes earlier than the system. If you press the key after the animation appears, you will have missed the detection of magisk and will only trigger the system safe mode. You should press and hold volume down immediately after the bootloader unlock warning, and release it after the animation appears - if you do not want to trigger the system safe mode at the same time.

        Safe mode can also be triggered through prop. When the computer is powered on, long press the restart button in the power menu and click OK on the "Reboot to Safe Mode" pop-up window, and the prop will be set. If magisk and the system read this prop the next time they are powered on, they will enter safe mode. Only in this way can we guarantee that everything will be triggered. But it is not practical, or in other words, it is meaningless to save bricks."
    2. You can also follow @Jon8RFC's advice:
      For the future, you don't need to go into safe mode unless that's your preference. I forgot what all it resets, but it's many settings and it's bothersome. I'd rather just reinstall my modules and not have to figure out those Android settings/changes which I come across days or weeks later when I infrequently do something. Have your phone reboot and run this:
      Code:
      adb wait-for-device shell magisk --remove-modules
      I like to just do this first:
      Code:
      adb devices
      So the server is running, then I have the long one pasted and ready to go once the phone turns off.
      Worked for me yesterday when I accidentally tried some old version of a Magisk Module. You have to reinstall your Magisk Modules, but if you're using a third-party widget, it won't disable them like Safe mode does.
    3. (May only be for mis-behaving LSposed modules):
      In the future try this

      adb wait-for-device shell su -c "touch /data/adb/modules/zygisk_lsposed/disable"
      adb reboot

      Official Google Android Flash Tool (OEM Unlocking needs to be toggled on - you do not have to manually unlock the bootloader - their site will do that on its own)
      OEM unlocking in developer options needs to be toggled on. I don't "believe" you have to actually do the "fastboot flashing unlock" command.

      How to determine if you already have Verity and Verification disabled (required for custom kernels for now)
      I keep seeing this asked, so I added a Magisk module for it to the linked Github release. With the module installed, you can just run:

      Code:
      su
      avbctl get-verity
      avbctl get-verification

      I spent way more time debugging that I downloaded Github's HTML of the update-binary script rather than the raw file than I care to admit. 🤦‍♂️ Off to bed.
      Alternative two more manual ways of checking:
      Since you´re probably already rooted anyway if you plan to flash this kernel, simply reboot your device. After you enter the device immediately take a kernel log with for example EXKM or any other app that allows to do that, terminal, etc.

      Look for that line
      [ 1.273480] init: [libfs_avb]AVB HASHTREE disabled on: /vendor_dlkm

      If you see this line, verity/verification should be disabled.
      I've seen several cases where having the ability to check would have been handy, so I pushed an avbctl binary built against the latest aosp sources here.

      The simplest way to use it would be the following:

      Code:
      adb push avbctl /data/local/tmp
      adb shell
      su
      cd /data/local/tmp
      chmod +x avbctl
      ./avbctl get-verity
      ./avbctl get-verification
    22
    I would expect that once 2.4.0 is released publicly, we should probably go back to using the official release, but conversely, as long as something works for you, there's also not necessarily a need to fix what isn't broken. Personally, I plan on switching once it's made completely public.

    Note that @Displax wasn't trying to replace the official version - they always kept it the same version as the most recent official along with "Mod", "Mod 2", or "Mod 2.1", so that suggests to me they were merely making temporary workarounds until/if the official was updated.
    Indeed. My MOD is a temporary solution until kdrag0n release accurate fix.

    I didn't change the update channel in the module on purpose so that everyone can upgrade to the new official version automatically without any problems.