I just want to bring this thread on top because I think it's something like a reference - even if you drive another car.
Junsun V1 MTK8259 - the adapter battle (Kia Ceed Jd) / OEM camera usage / reference thread
- Thread starter TorstenH
- Start date
Mate I need help with this, I have ceed JD GT OEM camera and teyes spro radio. I bought same cam kit Adapter and when I connect direct to 12V camera works but I have to manually start app.
When I connect to reverse/back wire nothing happens.
Do I really need Step-Down converter 5v output?
I suggest to use a converter to 6V because 12V may kill your OEM camera after a while. And the original Kia cam is expensive.
Your head unit needs 12V+ on the reverse input to get a trigger to switch to the camera app automatically. Kia has a reverse wire which has to be connected directly to reverse input of the headunit.
I have this CAM-KI1-RT , and converts 12 v to 6 v. But still. When I connect converter with back wire from headunit and I put in reverse gear. Nothing happens...
Sry I read now this part, so that meand there is extra wire for that. Which one is it?
B7 provides +12V as soon as you switch to reverse gear:
Connect B7 with the reverse input of your head unit. Usually the wiring harness of you head unit has a loose cable labeled with reverse. This should already enable your head unit to switch to the camera app automatically.
The Chinese don't connect reverse with their harness because they expect that you will use a aftermarket camera and getting reverse signal from reverse light.
I'm also using the +12V from B7 to power the step down converter for power supply of the camera. This avoids that the camera and the step-down converter are always on, with a positive affect for components lifetime.
Last edited:
True, i didn't think that way. Thx for link in pm, my works too. I hope someone find this help useful too.
Because I connected the external mic of my car to the head unit I decided to disconnect the internal microphone. This improves sound quality dramatically.
The board can be accessed without screws by removing a service cover:
Desoldering the black and red wires is piece of cake. But please don't try with those weird solder guns from the hardware store and don't forget to add some new solder on the tip, to improve heat conduction and so shorten the time you're heating up the circuit board.
I isolated the wires with some tape and put them into the space on the right side of the board (red arrow). Sure, you could also remove the mic completely...
Sound quality before and after that modification can be tested with any sound recorder app.
The board can be accessed without screws by removing a service cover:
Desoldering the black and red wires is piece of cake. But please don't try with those weird solder guns from the hardware store and don't forget to add some new solder on the tip, to improve heat conduction and so shorten the time you're heating up the circuit board.
I isolated the wires with some tape and put them into the space on the right side of the board (red arrow). Sure, you could also remove the mic completely...
Sound quality before and after that modification can be tested with any sound recorder app.
Looking to see if anyone has issue with radio and solutions. I updated to firmware v44 for my Junsun V1 Pro now the radio wont hold a station for very long and keeps searching, even when saved. Any suggestions please?
Also is there a way to get DAB radio without a new antenna?
Also is there a way to get DAB radio without a new antenna?
This is not the right threat for your first question.
There are three options to receive DAB:
- replacement of the existing antenna (best solution)
- window antenna which often gets shipped with the DAB USB dongles (Google for it or watch YouTube to get an idea how to install).
- splitter which allows to use the existing antenna for DAB. This approach didn't worked for me. You could give it a try and return the splitter if it doesn't work.
In all cases you need a DAB dongle as you can see here:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...-usage-reference-thread.4236281/post-84574977
And you need an additional app. DAB-Z is the preferred one.
I do not have a soldering iron nor have I ever used one, if I cut a cable from the microphone would be enough, if it is cut it can simply be harmful to the equipment
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2Because the pin/connector description of the seller is not consistent...
you can find the truth here:
According to the second picture and the pin description of the OEM Nav unit I re-wired the wiring harness delivered with the Junsun V1.
If you have the OEM navigation unit LAN2050EKJD
that's the right description of the pins:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here the concrete description how to change the black connector.
I used needles and a small scredriver to unlock the pins and a small knife to bent back the retaining springs. There are special tools availiable to unpin the wires and in review that's a good invest.
GND (with the big electrical contact) --> no change
B+ --> no change
ACC --> no change
USB_Data-, USB_GND, USB_Data+, USB_VCC --> Remove all pins and so the USB wire. We will use this to create our own USB adapter (see separate post).
GND (with the small electrical contact, above Key2) is key ground --> Pin A17
Key2 --> Not needed. Remove the wire and isolate the cable
Key1 --> Pin A5
Auto_ANT (power supply for the active aerial) --> Pin A18
ILL (driving light signal to turn on the button illumination) -> A7
Rear R- --> B11
Rear R+ --> B10
Front R- --> B2
Front R+ --> B3
Rear L- --> B13
Rear L+ --> B12
Front L- --> B4
Front L+ --> B1
The REVERSE cable of the Junsun V1 is just a loose cable. We have to connect it with pin B7.
Junsun doesn't have cinch cables for AUX on the power cable but AUX input on the separate RCA wiring harness:
REVERSE, AUX and MIC:
To get additional cables I bought this wiring harness:
REVERSE:
Remove one wire from the additional wiring harness to get a cable with a crimped pin and connect it to B7. Use a crimp connector to connect it with the loose REVERSE cable to create a contact for the power supply of the OEM reverse camera in one step:
AUX:
Remove the AUX wires from the additional wiring harness and connect them the following way:
AUX left: A10
AUX right: A8
AUX ground (common ground for left and right): A9
MIC:
The Junsun RCA wirign harness has a 3.5mm mono socket to connect an external microphone.
So I removed two more cables from the additional wiring harness and soldered them to to a 3.5mm mono plug. Connect them the following way:
MIC+: A21
MIC-: A22
To improve sound quality I desoldered the internal microphone:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...-usage-reference-thread.4236281/post-879702252Now I added the adapter for the rear view camera.
No need to say that I had to re-wire this adapter, too. But I got it for 4 EUR without the need to buy the 24 pin connector, the step-down converter and a head shrink to protect the converter.
Most OEM cameras are running on 6V.
The car (Kia Ceed JD) has a separate connector which provides on two pins the video signal and has another two pins for the camera power input. Usually the OEM Nav unit provides the 6V but the adapter is doing this job, now.
Pin description for LAN2050EKJD:
Relevant pins are only:
Pin 12 is the video image being sent to the head unit, pin 24 is the ground wire for the video. Connect cinch plug with pin 12 (inner wire) and pin 24 (shield).
Pin 10 is the positive power for the cam, pin 22 is the ground for the cam power supply.
Connect Step-Down converter 5v output! with pin 10 (+) and pin 22 (-).
I was worried if REVERSE is able to provide enough power for a stable operation of the camera. If not the solution would be to use an electronical relay, get the power from B+ and just use REVERSE as signal. An elecronical relay because a normal relay makes a click sound I don't want to hear as soon as I enter the reverse gear.
But currently it works like a charm. And I'm positive surprised because the Junsun V1 switch to back camers display before boot is completed.
Here you can see how the power supply of the step-down converter is realized:
1I bought the Junsun V1 head unit but my Kia Ceed JD had a OEM nav unit which isn't directly compatible to Junsun V1. So I re-wired the wiring harness based on the pins description of my original OEM navigation unit.
I'm only modifying the wiring harness of the Android radio and don't modify wires of the car itself to keep it original.
I removed the wire for USB because my car has a separate connector for USB and I want to use the socket in the centre console (separate post below).
What's working so far:
- Sound (I had to re-wire the speaker outputs, too)
- SWC (Steering Wheel Control)
- OEM microphone
- OEM AUX connector
- FM radio
- USB socket of the centre console
- OEM rear view camera.
- DAB
Additional I had some software hickups:
- The original launcher has a software bug which doesn't allow to add further shortcuts on the home screen. I decided to install AGAMA
- TTS nav software was muted when the radio was running. Can be fixed with firmware update
- Wasn't able to share the internet connection of my smartphone via Bluetooth. But I created an app to enter the hidden Android settings menu:
Junsun V1 - start equalizer/AUX/BT music/CarInfo... from launcher
The app equalizer.apk starts the equalizer...
forum.xda-developers.com
1Today I've got the USB adapter with the RD45 connector:
I removed the pins from the adapter (right side) to add the grey RD45 connector to the Junsun wires (left side). The adapter with the open connection will help me to identify the pin assignment in the car.
Here you can see the finalized wire:
1Junsun V1 - start equalizer/AUX/BT music/CarInfo... from launcher
The app equalizer.apk starts the equalizer...
forum.xda-developers.com
Share internet connection via bluetooth
To use the internet connection of my...
forum.xda-developers.com
