[Manual] HTC HD2 Touch Screen Replace

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EViS

Senior Member
Jun 20, 2006
157
2
I have a UK HD2 with a cracked digitizer. Would this be the T8585 then? I think I will purchase a digitizer+LCD combo as this will be much easier to install. How do I know whether I need to purchase a solder or solderless digitizer+LCD?
 
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Tenpin

Senior Member
Nov 1, 2011
611
33
Manchester
Hi guys I have two HD2's now, one which has a touch screen which doesn't work. So it needs a digitzier replacement, if anyone is interested in buying that HD2 please pm me.

(Edit: Sold now, thanks for the interest. Bought a working one now)

Regards,
 
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GnatGoSplat

Senior Member
Apr 29, 2007
1,740
158
I have a UK HD2 with a cracked digitizer. Would this be the T8585 then? I think I will purchase a digitizer+LCD combo as this will be much easier to install. How do I know whether I need to purchase a solder or solderless digitizer+LCD?

UK HD2s usually use soldered digitizers, but if you're replacing the combo, then it really doesn't matter. The soldered or solderless connection is between digitizer and LCD module. With the combo, it's already pre-assembled so you don't need to care about that connection. The combo-to-PCB connection is the same on both.
 

EViS

Senior Member
Jun 20, 2006
157
2
UK HD2s usually use soldered digitizers, but if you're replacing the combo, then it really doesn't matter. The soldered or solderless connection is between digitizer and LCD module. With the combo, it's already pre-assembled so you don't need to care about that connection. The combo-to-PCB connection is the same on both.

What exactly needs dismantling to swap out a combo (digitizer+LCD)? I'm a bit put off by hearing a fair few of you saying that after putting everything back together, certain aspects of your phones stop working. Do I risk damaging other parts of the phone when installing a combo? Or is it a straight swap and nothing else needs disconnecting other than the LCD?
 

GnatGoSplat

Senior Member
Apr 29, 2007
1,740
158
What exactly needs dismantling to swap out a combo (digitizer+LCD)? I'm a bit put off by hearing a fair few of you saying that after putting everything back together, certain aspects of your phones stop working. Do I risk damaging other parts of the phone when installing a combo? Or is it a straight swap and nothing else needs disconnecting other than the LCD?

Some people dismantle the whole thing, removing every single board and disconnecting every cable. All I did was removed the LCD+digitizer assembly, and loosened the bottom circuit board by removing the 3 screws and button flex in order to reach the LCD+digitizer connector. I'm not really sure why some people take every little bit of it apart. I don't really think it would be easier that way, although I did hear that someone found doing it my way to be very tricky to work the LCD+digitizer flex back into the connector on the lower board, but I didn't have any trouble with it at all and I have done it multiple times. Another guy who was sending me PMs tried to do it my way, but he cracked the new digitizer when squeezing the phone back together. I guess he squeezed too hard, I had no trouble at all with that.
 

EViS

Senior Member
Jun 20, 2006
157
2
What screwdrivers do I need to replace the digitizer+LCD combo on a UK HD2? Is it a T5 or T4 (or both)?
 

EViS

Senior Member
Jun 20, 2006
157
2
Yeah, that pic is of the LCD+digitizer assembly once it's off, but still connected to the main circuit board by the flex cable. That's why I've lifted it like that, so I don't pull on the flex. What I did was:

1. Remove phone chassis from rear casing by removing 4 screws in the back and using plastic tools to pry it out. There are 2 spots in the top with plastic tabs anchored into the rear housing. I found it worked well to use cut-up credit cards to stick in there to keep the little tabs from sliding back into the rear housing while I worked on the other tabs.
2. Once phone chassis is removed from rear casing, remove 2 strips of tape from the sides. They look like fabric and one has copper. See Step 27 on ifixit writeup.
3. Use a thin, flat, plastic tool to cut through all the double-sided adhesive tape between the LCD module and chassis frame. Notice the gap between two METAL parts - the backing of the LCD module is also metal. This is where you slide your plastic tool. I used a scrap credit card to do this. You will have to go pretty deep near the top of the phone as there is tape up to an inch from the edge. Notice in my pic where the flex cable is? DO NOT go more than 3/16" deep in that area! You do NOT want to cut or tear the flex cable with your tool!!! Also, when you start pulling and lifting the LCD module away from the chassis, BE SURE to lift up on the left side (with screen facing you), allowing the assembly to "hinge" on the right edge. DO NOT lift the right side up more than a few millimeters because the flex is not very long. Also, heating the phone MAY make cutting through the adhesive easier, though I didn't bother to heat mine.
4. Lift the left side of the LCD up (as shown in my pic), then use tweezers to remove the orange tape covering the connector and lift up on the little black latch with a small screwdriver or plastic tool. After you've done that, gently set the LCD back into place.
4. Turn the phone over and remove 3 screws from the bottom logic board as in iFixit step #15. No need to remove the top 2.
5. I disconnected, but did NOT remove the bluetooth cable, from the lower circuit board as in iFixit step #18. You may find it helpful to also disconnect the wiring as shown in iFixit step #16, but I don't think I did.
6. Remove the orange tape and lift up the black latch to remove the button flex as shown in iFixit step #19.
7. Now gently pop up the lower circuit board from the little tabs holding it in and gently lift the side of it where the LCD connector is located away from the frame. Lift it only a few millimeters, you should now be able to see the LCD flex connector between the chassis and circuit board. Use a small tool like a jeweler's screwdriver to slide the flex out of the connector that you unlatched in step 4.
8. Now you should be able to lift the LCD assembly completely off the phone.
9. Removing digitizer from LCD is a matter of cutting through the double-sided tape with a plastic tool. Again, I used a cut-up credit card for this. Try not to go too deep to avoid scratching the LCD.
10. I used just regular clear tape to clean off the left over adhesive from the LCD.

Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Reconnecting the LCD is a little tricky, but it's not bad if you have good manual dexterity. I reconnected/disconnected the LCD several times because sometimes during the process I would hear a crack and it would scare me, so I reconnected the LCD to power up the phone and make sure I didn't crack it! Fortunately, all those sounds that made me nervous came from the old, cracked digitizer.

Lacquer thinner on a Q-tip works well to clean off the old adhesive tape. I'm sure other solvents would work as well.

Also, double-sided tape worked well and should be used to hold the new digitizer onto the LCD, but I found the entire LCD assembly-to-chassis didn't hold well with the double-sided tape I got off eBay. One edge would lift up 1.5 to 2mm after a few days of non-use. I ended up lifting up the LCD again and removing all the double-sided tape and using Permatex adhesive silicone instead, and using big rubber bands to hold it together while it cured. That seems to have worked quite well.


Hope that helps!
I replaced my LCD+Digitizer combo following your instructions and although it did take a painstaking 4 hours, the new screen is in :). Obviously some copper tape had to be peeled off and couldn't be put back, any idea what the risks is of now not having this in place? Potential shorts?
 

GnatGoSplat

Senior Member
Apr 29, 2007
1,740
158
Are you talking about the clear orange tape that goes on the connectors, or that fabric-covered copper metal tape that goes on the sides?
Either way, I don't think it's all that important. The orange tape on the connectors probably just prevents the little plastic latches from popping up and letting the flex cable fall out if the phone experiences shock (like dropping), but I don't think that's likely to happen anyway. Many phones have such connectors and no extra tape added. The copper fabric covered tape on the sides is probably just to partly block out excess LCD backlight from being visible in the gaps between housing and touchscreen, as well as maybe improving stray RF emissions.
 

EViS

Senior Member
Jun 20, 2006
157
2
Are you talking about the clear orange tape that goes on the connectors, or that fabric-covered copper metal tape that goes on the sides?
Either way, I don't think it's all that important. The orange tape on the connectors probably just prevents the little plastic latches from popping up and letting the flex cable fall out if the phone experiences shock (like dropping), but I don't think that's likely to happen anyway. Many phones have such connectors and no extra tape added. The copper fabric covered tape on the sides is probably just to partly block out excess LCD backlight from being visible in the gaps between housing and touchscreen, as well as maybe improving stray RF emissions.

I forgot to put the plastic orange tape back onto the connectors too! I was referring to the copper tape along the sides of the phone, it was connected to a large piece of copper tape which is stuck onto the mainboard. Could it be some form of grounding?
 

GnatGoSplat

Senior Member
Apr 29, 2007
1,740
158
Yeah, it's probably for grounding or reducing RF emissions. I think that piece of tape had been cut or torn on mine because someone had been into mine before and then gave up. I don't think it'll make hardly any difference at all.
 

Scotto

Member
Feb 7, 2008
8
0
Yeah, that pic is of the LCD+digitizer assembly once it's off, but still connected to the main circuit board by the flex cable. That's why I've lifted it like that, so I don't pull on the flex. What I did was:

1. Remove phone chassis from rear casing by removing 4 screws in the back and using plastic tools to pry it out. There are 2 spots in the top with plastic tabs anchored into the rear housing. I found it worked well to use cut-up credit cards to stick in there to keep the little tabs from sliding back into the rear housing while I worked on the other tabs.
2. Once phone chassis is removed from rear casing, remove 2 strips of tape from the sides. They look like fabric and one has copper. See Step 27 on ifixit writeup.
3. Use a thin, flat, plastic tool to cut through all the double-sided adhesive tape between the LCD module and chassis frame. Notice the gap between two METAL parts - the backing of the LCD module is also metal. This is where you slide your plastic tool. I used a scrap credit card to do this. You will have to go pretty deep near the top of the phone as there is tape up to an inch from the edge. Notice in my pic where the flex cable is? DO NOT go more than 3/16" deep in that area! You do NOT want to cut or tear the flex cable with your tool!!! Also, when you start pulling and lifting the LCD module away from the chassis, BE SURE to lift up on the left side (with screen facing you), allowing the assembly to "hinge" on the right edge. DO NOT lift the right side up more than a few millimeters because the flex is not very long. Also, heating the phone MAY make cutting through the adhesive easier, though I didn't bother to heat mine.
4. Lift the left side of the LCD up (as shown in my pic), then use tweezers to remove the orange tape covering the connector and lift up on the little black latch with a small screwdriver or plastic tool. After you've done that, gently set the LCD back into place.
4. Turn the phone over and remove 3 screws from the bottom logic board as in iFixit step #15. No need to remove the top 2.
5. I disconnected, but did NOT remove the bluetooth cable, from the lower circuit board as in iFixit step #18. You may find it helpful to also disconnect the wiring as shown in iFixit step #16, but I don't think I did.
6. Remove the orange tape and lift up the black latch to remove the button flex as shown in iFixit step #19.
7. Now gently pop up the lower circuit board from the little tabs holding it in and gently lift the side of it where the LCD connector is located away from the frame. Lift it only a few millimeters, you should now be able to see the LCD flex connector between the chassis and circuit board. Use a small tool like a jeweler's screwdriver to slide the flex out of the connector that you unlatched in step 4.
8. Now you should be able to lift the LCD assembly completely off the phone.
9. Removing digitizer from LCD is a matter of cutting through the double-sided tape with a plastic tool. Again, I used a cut-up credit card for this. Try not to go too deep to avoid scratching the LCD.
10. I used just regular clear tape to clean off the left over adhesive from the LCD.

Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Reconnecting the LCD is a little tricky, but it's not bad if you have good manual dexterity. I reconnected/disconnected the LCD several times because sometimes during the process I would hear a crack and it would scare me, so I reconnected the LCD to power up the phone and make sure I didn't crack it! Fortunately, all those sounds that made me nervous came from the old, cracked digitizer.

Lacquer thinner on a Q-tip works well to clean off the old adhesive tape. I'm sure other solvents would work as well.

Also, double-sided tape worked well and should be used to hold the new digitizer onto the LCD, but I found the entire LCD assembly-to-chassis didn't hold well with the double-sided tape I got off eBay. One edge would lift up 1.5 to 2mm after a few days of non-use. I ended up lifting up the LCD again and removing all the double-sided tape and using Permatex adhesive silicone instead, and using big rubber bands to hold it together while it cured. That seems to have worked quite well.


Hope that helps!

Using your experience as a start, I managed to replace the digitizer with less steps (US T-Mobile version, with plug-in connector)

Steps 1-3, the same.

Step 4: With LCD still attached to board by flex cable, heated the lcd/digitizer with a blowdrier. Carefully slid a quitar pick around the edges to loosen the glass from the LCD, while being very careful not to stress the LCD flex cable. Removed the glass. I accidentally cut through the digitzer flex cable when doing this, but no big deal because the old digitizer was broken.
Step 5: Carefully cleaned LCD with soft eyeglass cloth. Used double sided tape to mount new glass. Used tweezers to route digitizer flex cable and plug it in.
Step 6: Reassemble.

This method is a bit challenging because it would be easy to damage the LCD flex cable. However, reassembly is much faster.

If anyone else tries it this way, I would like to hear about your experience.
 

acijhav

New member
Jul 2, 2009
3
0
HD2 wont turn ON (Back panel off-works,assembled together-doesn't)


Put in new LCD and digitizer. Once replaced, before assembling phone back i attached battery and ran test. Phone turns on and works fine (i even tried to put sim card in and made calls,also checked wi-fi etc ). BUT when i assemble phone back putting back panel in place(not battery cover) i cannot turn it on.I tried it 3 times. Back panel off-works,assembled together-doesn't. I obviously squeeze some contact somewhere or who-knows what can i do to fix this problem...
Any Idea????
 

jngggggggg

Member
Nov 20, 2009
12
0
hey all this is an awesome thread and i have looked through most of the pages (1-12) and am getting confused by the wealth of information provided by everyone. Just to clarify:
the p/n on the back of my hd2 is 99hjy034-00. is this the regular version?

after consideration, I've decided to buy the digitalizer and lcd screen all in one because i do not have soldering equipment and would rather pay more and not have to worry so much about breaking anything. Is there a guide out there on what needs to be done when you buy this combo and not just the digitalizer?

similarly, to my previous question, what materials will i need if i buy the combo back instead? I'm planning on buying this one. anything else i will need? tape etc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-LCD-Di...71597336&ps=63&clkid=9067999618005513064#shId

thanks a lot
 

gatzdon

Member
Jan 15, 2010
12
0
Been a long time since I posted here.

A few months ago, my 10 year old son dropped his HD2 (my old HD2 with CM7 Nightly loaded) and the digitizer cracked. That phone had been dropped so many times, but the day he dropped, it must have hit the corner just wrong. Shame too because he loved to use it as a mp3 player, youtube player, netflix player, and much more.

At the time, I got disparaged by all the videos about how involved it was to replace the digitizer. Well, for whatever reason, I got to looking again this week and I found this thread again. Thanks to creativeevent's video link, I decided to try a test.

I disassembled the HD2 and removed the LCD/Digitizer completely, then reconnected it and powered it up (without the back cover) and it worked. Now I feel confident in risking the money for a replacement LCD/Digitizer.

The toughest part (or rather most nerve racking part) is the actual disconnection and reconnecting of the LCD Ribbon cable. Separating the motherboard from the chasis takes what feels like potentially two much force, but I did it without disconnecting any cables (I did pay very close attention to the keyboard cable though).

Reconnecting the LCD cable is definitely a trick, but I agree the once you do it for the first time, it becomes a simple task after that.

I came across this one on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050LU3ZG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1N5BNWVY8XERQ

$38 (+$5 shipping) from a company listed as being in NJ.

I have a few rewards to redeem for Amazon Store Credit before I order, but just thinking out loud, what is the biggest risk with ordering something like this from a "random" seller (I see everyone ordering from ebay, but who knows what you are getting when it direct from China?).

Just curious (and I thought I would share my experience if it helps others).

My advice to anyone skipping the complicated disassemblies and doing it the easy way, take your time and be VERY METHODICAL in separating the LCD and disconnecting/reconnecting the LCD cable. Nothing had to be really forced (even it moved/released VERY slowly).
 

gatzdon

Member
Jan 15, 2010
12
0
Quick update on my saga.

I received the $43 LCD/Digitizer. The return address on the package was in New Jersey.

It had the same part number as mine and a connector for the digitizer cable (not soldered). There was a spot where a sticker was scraped off the back, but otherwise it did look brand new (not a single scratch and no evidence of dust).

I plugged it into the phone first and powered up to make sure it works before actually trying to install it proper. Everything worked as expected.

I then disconnected it and reconnected it routing the LCD cable correctly. I attempted to power it up again to double check before actually gluing anything back together.

Nothing.

That's when I realized that I tore my keyboard cable clear in half.

I was still able to power the phone up to make sure everything else still works and it did (my phone turns on automatically when plugged in to charge), but now I have to wait until the Keyboard Cable that I ordered comes.

Lesson learned, disconnect the keyboard cable. It's pretty easy to disconnect/reconnect and eliminates all stress on the cable.

Enjoy.
 
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  • 5
    VIDEO MANUAL HOW TO REPLACE HTC HD2 TOUCH SCREEN



    /!\

    1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdihThJFyz4

    2. Photos & Videos [source] (634mb) - http://en.failiem.lv/down.php?i=ujvdnl&n=HTC_HD2_Touch_Screen_replace_photos_and_videos.rar


    Other good stuff:

    1. Disassemble Official Video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4 (Without Touch Screen dis.)

    2. Assemble back Official Video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54

    3. More photos from FloatHeavy - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328


    NOTE
    If you have T-Mobile HTC, then buy a touch screen with t-mobile logo !! If you have touch without t-mobile logo, then buy without, because the connectors are different!!! (Buy it on ebay)

    Thanks.
    2
    Hmm.. so do I just follow what you said earlier? I saw the pic you posted, but is that the pic of the lcd plus digitizer once it's off? I'm a total n00b at this but can you put together a step by step guide of how you did yours so I don't have to take more parts out and then later on have extra screws :D :p if you know what I mean :) Also do I get those 3M double sided tape for "iphone" that I see on amazon to tape it together? It doesn't mention anything about that on ifixit

    Yeah, that pic is of the LCD+digitizer assembly once it's off, but still connected to the main circuit board by the flex cable. That's why I've lifted it like that, so I don't pull on the flex. What I did was:

    1. Remove phone chassis from rear casing by removing 4 screws in the back and using plastic tools to pry it out. There are 2 spots in the top with plastic tabs anchored into the rear housing. I found it worked well to use cut-up credit cards to stick in there to keep the little tabs from sliding back into the rear housing while I worked on the other tabs.
    2. Once phone chassis is removed from rear casing, remove 2 strips of tape from the sides. They look like fabric and one has copper. See Step 27 on ifixit writeup.
    3. Use a thin, flat, plastic tool to cut through all the double-sided adhesive tape between the LCD module and chassis frame. Notice the gap between two METAL parts - the backing of the LCD module is also metal. This is where you slide your plastic tool. I used a scrap credit card to do this. You will have to go pretty deep near the top of the phone as there is tape up to an inch from the edge. Notice in my pic where the flex cable is? DO NOT go more than 3/16" deep in that area! You do NOT want to cut or tear the flex cable with your tool!!! Also, when you start pulling and lifting the LCD module away from the chassis, BE SURE to lift up on the left side (with screen facing you), allowing the assembly to "hinge" on the right edge. DO NOT lift the right side up more than a few millimeters because the flex is not very long. Also, heating the phone MAY make cutting through the adhesive easier, though I didn't bother to heat mine.
    4. Lift the left side of the LCD up (as shown in my pic), then use tweezers to remove the orange tape covering the connector and lift up on the little black latch with a small screwdriver or plastic tool. After you've done that, gently set the LCD back into place.
    4. Turn the phone over and remove 3 screws from the bottom logic board as in iFixit step #15. No need to remove the top 2.
    5. I disconnected, but did NOT remove the bluetooth cable, from the lower circuit board as in iFixit step #18. You may find it helpful to also disconnect the wiring as shown in iFixit step #16, but I don't think I did.
    6. Remove the orange tape and lift up the black latch to remove the button flex as shown in iFixit step #19.
    7. Now gently pop up the lower circuit board from the little tabs holding it in and gently lift the side of it where the LCD connector is located away from the frame. Lift it only a few millimeters, you should now be able to see the LCD flex connector between the chassis and circuit board. Use a small tool like a jeweler's screwdriver to slide the flex out of the connector that you unlatched in step 4.
    8. Now you should be able to lift the LCD assembly completely off the phone.
    9. Removing digitizer from LCD is a matter of cutting through the double-sided tape with a plastic tool. Again, I used a cut-up credit card for this. Try not to go too deep to avoid scratching the LCD.
    10. I used just regular clear tape to clean off the left over adhesive from the LCD.

    Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Reconnecting the LCD is a little tricky, but it's not bad if you have good manual dexterity. I reconnected/disconnected the LCD several times because sometimes during the process I would hear a crack and it would scare me, so I reconnected the LCD to power up the phone and make sure I didn't crack it! Fortunately, all those sounds that made me nervous came from the old, cracked digitizer.

    Lacquer thinner on a Q-tip works well to clean off the old adhesive tape. I'm sure other solvents would work as well.

    Also, double-sided tape worked well and should be used to hold the new digitizer onto the LCD, but I found the entire LCD assembly-to-chassis didn't hold well with the double-sided tape I got off eBay. One edge would lift up 1.5 to 2mm after a few days of non-use. I ended up lifting up the LCD again and removing all the double-sided tape and using Permatex adhesive silicone instead, and using big rubber bands to hold it together while it cured. That seems to have worked quite well.


    Hope that helps!
    2
    No, there is no way of replacing anything in the display assembly without completely disassembling the phone. Well almost completed disassembling.

    There is no practical way of replacing JUST the glass.

    Wait a second, guys!
    Due to my research about replacing LCD+Digi, or only the Digitizer, I found out that you DO NOT have to disassemble completely the HD2.

    Please have a look at the following video from beginning 0:00 till 1:47.
    www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1QL7BNNL0Y

    After 1:48 the video shows the rest of the disassembling procedure what is NOT necessary if you only want to replace LCD+Digitizer unit. Therefore: No need to disassemble the whole cables, parts, boards and stuff.

    In the next weeks I will try to replace the LCD-Digi-Unit.
    I will order this combo: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W1IYXS
    1
    My Digitizer died yesterday, and been looking on ebay for a new one, but there is a inconsistency as to which digitizer model is compatible with the t-mobile units, some say its the solder one and others, its the clip one, others say its the clip one but have the picture of the solder one (and say that the picture is accurate).

    It seems most of them say that the t-mobile model has the digitizer which requires no solder, is this correct?

    Yes, that is correct. You want the digitizer that says T-Mobile on it, and yes it will be the clip in type, no solder required.
    1
    When ordering lcd + digitizer do all versions fit T-mobile HD2 or is there a special version. I am asking this because it's impossible to find a t-mobile one, most of them are for Euro HD2.
    No, it does not matter which lcd + digitizer combo you get. All versions are the same dimensions.