[Manual] HTC HD2 Touch Screen Replace

[mred-it]

Can someone repost the source files, PLEASE?
Thank you guys.

 

[katkni]

10 month cracked screen!

I cracked my screen last September, as badly as the one in the video. It's been working fine, no problem. I've been getting up the nerve to either do this, or take it in for repair. Now that my TMobile contract is up, I could upgrade but am not excited about any of the current phones. Has anyone else just used a cracked screen? For how long?

 

[ionbasa]

Button Strips

I have a quick question! some of my buttons have died on my hd2 and I bought a replacement off of ebay that included tools. If I want to replace my front buttons do I need a new digitizer/LCD/ front glass. Do I even need to touch the front glass to get to the buttons? If I do need to take off the digitizer do I need a new one or can I still use the one I have?

 

[jianC]

I have a quick question! some of my buttons have died on my hd2 and I bought a replacement off of ebay that included tools. If I want to replace my front buttons do I need a new digitizer/LCD/ front glass. Do I even need to touch the front glass to get to the buttons? If I do need to take off the digitizer do I need a new one or can I still use the one I have?

The digitizer is glued/taped to the lcd, and it is treated as one assembly. The digitizer is glued onto the lcd, and the lcd is glued onto the chassis, so you will have to only pry off the lcd to access the front buttons. Just be careful not to rip the volume flex ribbon and the lcd flex ribbon (when separating it from the chassis with a knife, as most people do)

 

[ionbasa]

The digitizer is glued/taped to the lcd, and it is treated as one assembly. The digitizer is glued onto the lcd, and the lcd is glued onto the chassis, so you will have to only pry off the lcd to access the front buttons. Just be careful not to rip the volume flex ribbon and the lcd flex ribbon (when separating it from the chassis with a knife, as most people do)

So I only have to pry off the LCD. From the chassis. Is it the middle chassis? I assume a heat gun on low should help in removing the LCD from the chassis. Once I have the the buttons replaced how do I get the LCD back on the chassis? Super glue/ epoxy / double sided tape? I would prefer not using epoxy as it would probably make it permanent. Any recommended adhesives?

 

[jianC]

So I only have to pry off the LCD. From the chassis. Is it the middle chassis? I assume a heat gun on low should help in removing the LCD from the chassis. Once I have the the buttons replaced how do I get the LCD back on the chassis? Super glue/ epoxy / double sided tape? I would prefer not using epoxy as it would probably make it permanent. Any recommended adhesives?

yes, you only have to pry off the lcd. A heat gun would help, I just use a hair dryer at highest heat setting for 5-10 minutes . To get the LCD back on the chassis, I use super glue on the four corners of the metal chassis and it holds fine. Unless you can find some tape that is as strong as the oem htc one, you will have to use some sort of glue for the lcd to stay on the chassis.

 

[mengfei]

seems like a lot of Brave hearts out there trying thier luck in opening thier beloved HD2
if this has not yet been posted try this method to open up your HD2, seems like a lot of steps! :silly:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Screen/5651/1

& I guess this site has all the parts for the HD2
http://priceselector.org/search/htc hd2 parts?campid=5336926864

 

[GnatGoSplat]

seems like a lot of Brave hearts out there trying thier luck in opening thier beloved HD2
if this has not yet been posted try this method to open up your HD2, seems like a lot of steps! :silly:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-HTC-HD2-PB81120-Screen/5651/1

Yeah, all those steps are what most people have been trying to avoid.

 

[daveyb123]

If anyone fixes theirs and all goes well and looks good then please write a brief post saying where you got the part from - so hard to know where to buy, and where not to buy from, particularly from UK. I need a new digitizer (295 type) or combined LCD/digitizer unit (300 type).

If you're taking the case off then use a guitar plectrum or thin but firm plastic - not metal. File off jagged/scratchy edges from your plastic 'tool' if necessary. Taper the plastic with a file or stone to make it easier to insert between the case and screen. With the battery out press moderately (not too hard) on the back of the innards near where you're working. Only lever enough to release the clips - you are not gouging out the bad bits from a potato! The phone clips in the case via small bits of the case sticking out into slots in the phone. On mine they are located as follows*:

/-*--*------------------*--*-\
|                            |
|            top             |
|                            |
|                            |
|                            |
|                            |
|                            *
|                            |
|           front            |
|                            |
|                            *
*                            |
|                            |
|                            |
*                            |
|                            |
*                            *
|                            |
\--___________------------__-/
            sockets

Note: work the sides and top. The phone is designed to be inserted at the bottom then clicked into place at the sides and top. The _'s at the bottom indicate where the phone sticks out into the case (as well as the sockets).

If new to soldering - and going down the solder route, practice on an old duff circuit board - lots!, use minimal heat/contact - let things cool!, use solder wick to desolder (wick on old solder, iron on wick, use fresh wick each press) - it's v. cheap & on ebay, 'tin' connectors and iron (look up tinning soldering), clean iron on damp spong everytime before you touch your device = good connection = minimal heat through your device = parts still work/don't melt. Fleshly melt solder onto joint, don't use the old blob on end of iron where all the flux has burned off and it won't stick to anything. Use an antistatic (ESD) strap so you're not one of those people who finds parts not working afterwards, put parts on an antistatic surface (like an only silvery antstatic HDD bag or antistatic bubble wrap) - Not on the carpet! - wiring yourself to a metal radiator or waterpipe may work, but only if the metal goes all the way to the ground, i.e. no plastic pipes, Use ipa alcohol to clean rosin off it if desired, but not required-prob best left alone-no one will see it -- I'm no expert, but a few tips I know.

 

[daveyb123]

Needing to access the information on my phone with unresponsive touch screen/digitizer I have done some thinking and experimenting.

To TEMPORARILY restore the functionality: DO NOT use the 'press the power button hard/repeatedly/alternate pressing hard on each side' technique - this will only damage your power button as well.

The ribbon from the digitizer runs down towards the back of the phone just the above power button. Due to poor design, the power button likely brushes against and causes movement in the digitizer ribbon cable causing fatigue in metal in it resulting in cracks in the wires/copper strips.

Functionality of the touch screen goes on and off as these cracks (more likely just one crack) opens and closes causing the reconnection and disconnection. The best way to cause movement in the ribbon to cause the cracks to temporarily close is to rub your thumb in a circular motion or up and down on the power button to get it to touch the ribbon - you do not need to press hard.(Edit: try rubbing your thumb over the power button it in a circular motionwhile holding it down - still do not need to press hard)

To keep funtionality as long as possible, avoid pressing the power button and be careful pressing the back button - press it only straight down and gently. Keep it charged and switched on. Wake it up using the talk/send key. Don't put it in your trouser/pants pocket where the button will likely get a lot of side to side movement while walking - in fact, this may be what kills it in the first place. If you do put it in your pocket, put the buttons at the top facing away from your leg or use some kind of case to prevent the buttons receiving pressure/movement. Press touch screen only gently in that lower-left corner. If you need to switch it off, do so by taking the battery out. Switch it on by connecting it to a computer via USB. Be careful when polishing smear off the screen - avoid that power button.

To find out what replacement part you need - replacement is inevitable (unsure if this info is accurate, but it seems right)
Turn off then turn on while holding vol down to get screen with red/green/blue bars. Look at bottom right number. If it reads 0x30 its solder type (295), if it's 0x50 it's plug in type (300), if it's 0x40 I've no idea, maybe plugin (300 type) - so I read...yet to fix mine. Take battery out to reset back to normal. Most UK/EU are solder type. If it's has T-mobile on the front it's plug-in type - so I read.

---------- Post added at 12:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 AM ----------

Lots of positive feedback on HD2 digitizers it seems from this seller - let me know how you get on if you buy one. What is the quality/fit like? I read one seller was supplying plastic ones - not glass (but he/she said they were actually ok) - not sure if this seller supplies the same.

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/xtrafun007

 

[galingong]

incompatible display/digitizer

hi there!
i've ordered a digitizer and a display from ebay,but i was careless enough not to pay attention that there are two versions.the display is the t-mobile version (smaller connector on the backside of display),and the digitizer is the other version (approx. 1cm wide connector that won't fit). is there any way to connect them?is the wiring the same,or am i better off ordering a new digitizer?
thanks in advance

 

[GnatGoSplat]

Yes, I'm afraid you're going to have to order a new digitizer or LCD. Probably better to get the digitizer because the T-Mobile style connector is much easier to deal with.
Since you needed both, I would have recommended to buy a pre-assembled LCD+digitizer because that way you wouldn't have had to worry about getting them perfectly aligned or dust getting trapped between them.

 

[daveyb123]

Apps to prevent power button use:

Tap Tap
Button Savior
Lock screen

These apps mean you never have to press the button panel

 

[mikerow81]

thanks

Super tip, thanks

 

[androidsetting.com]

Hi,

What kind of glue have you used to assemble the digitizer and the screen?

And what kind of scotch you used next?
I think i'll use the "3M TAPE ADHESIVE"

Thanks

 

[daveyb123]

Button Protector Mod

From my determination to find a less invasive/less risky/less expensive solution to this problem I present the button protector mod.

Button Protector Instructions

Get your phone working by holding down the power button and moving it around while trying the touch screen - you don't need to press hard - it just needs to brush against the flex cable with some side to side movement while depressed normally. Once working install Button Savior and Tap Tap apps and activate them so you don't need the buttons anymore. Tap tap doesn't always work but you can plug in the usb/charger to wake it up if need be. Anyone know of a good wake with volume keys app?

1) Find a source of .8 to 1.0 mm plastic (I used a plastic olive oil bottle)
2) Cut 2 oblongs the same size out of it to fit the bottom of the phone
3) Cut a square out of the middle of one the same size as the button panel
4) Glue both together and let glue completely dry (you don't want glue on the buttons)
5) Round corners to match phone with sandpaper or a nail file and taper the edges for a better look.
6) Stick black insulation tape over the top of it leaving a tab each side and a thin strip at the bottom
7) Place over buttons using the tabs and stip of tape to stick it to the phone - sticking it to the phone with double sided tape (NOT GLUE) might be a better solution to stop it moving around at all, although if the touch screen does happen to stop working again it's a harder job to remove the protector it to get the phone working again.

Once the phone is working and the buttons are completely protected from movement, in theory, the touch screen should stay working. I've tried shaking and squeezing the phone but it does not seem to affect the touch screen/digitizer flex cable. I'll let you know how it goes....

http://postimage.org/image/9uvf5m86p/
http://postimage.org/image/ly48bmpp1/

Note: putting insulation tape directly on the buttons doesn't work as they can still be pressed and it pulls off the brushed metal effect on them.

 

[DOVIZ]

Adhesive tape removing

Maybe someone knows how to remove adhesive tape from lcd screen? I don't want to damage it

 

[daveyb123]

Maybe someone knows how to remove adhesive tape from lcd screen? I don't want to damage it

That's why I used insulation tape - easy to get off again (& comes in black)

Depends on the tape really. I'd probably try a damp coth first to see if it water soluable then pure alcohol or isopropyl alcohol first, then maybe methelated spirits which I've used to successfully remove lots of old hardened selotape glue from a whiteboard before. Obviously be careful not ot let any dribble down the side of the screen. If there's tape rather than residue to come off then you'll have to peal it but some of the above may make it come off easier. Just peal it very slowly and keep the tape close to the screen so you're pulling it sideways rather than up away from the screen - it'll put less stress on it it. If it's something like gaffer tape then good luck!

I've never tried alcohol or meths on a screen. It'll probably be ok, especially alcohol, but don't blame me if it screws it up!

 

[DOVIZ]

That's why I used insulation tape - easy to get off again (& comes in black)

Depends on the tape really. I'd probably try a damp coth first to see if it water soluable then pure alcohol or isopropyl alcohol first, then maybe methelated spirits which I've used to successfully remove lots of old hardened selotape glue from a whiteboard before. Obviously be careful not ot let any dribble down the side of the screen. If there's tape rather than residue to come off then you'll have to peal it but some of the above may make it come off easier. Just peal it very slowly and keep the tape close to the screen so you're pulling it sideways rather than up away from the screen - it'll put less stress on it it. If it's something like gaffer tape then good luck!

I've never tried alcohol or meths on a screen. It'll probably be ok, especially alcohol, but don't blame me if it screws it up!

Thanks, i tried to use moment silver tape to remove that tape, it works good, but still there are some tape left, i will try to remove it with something like screen cleaning fluid or something, i think it is isopropyl alkochol

 

[bib*oops]

Maybe someone knows how to remove adhesive tape from lcd screen? I don't want to damage it

If you have good nails and some patience, you'll get the job done!