[Manual] HTC HD2 Touch Screen Replace
- Thread starter waza123
- Start date
This is nothing special, other than regular soldering tool(low power) for this kind of stuff.
WARNING: when soldering, try to heat as less as possible lcd, overheating it, could lead to altered colours!
These aren't videos of a HD2 but they'll give you an idea. A soldering iron with variable temperature would be helpful - yo keep heat as low as possible, but not essential. Just practice lots first. Removing the old ribbon will probably be the most tricky part.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R698z9QaypY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfzMOzuqNDQ
That'd be too much heat for me in the second video.
Re antistatic wristband.Yes, you should use one. You might get away with it, but you might not and brick your device. There's plenty of reports of people putting their device back together after fixing it to find other things don't work. That could be for various reasons, but static is a good contender. The tiny circuits in microchips blow like a fuse in a power surge from static you won't even feel is there. I've blown plenty of things before because I didn't use/have one. Static electricity measures in thousands of volts.
Last edited:
Yeah, thanks for the videos, i will try to learn that as good as i can, just listen, i found some soldering iron, it's melting temperature is 190C, it is good or not? 1mm thick. I don't have soldering tool with variable temperature right now
Last edited:
Just buy some standard lead/tin solder with a flux (rosin) core like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/63-37-Tin...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item43a8f0ecbf
230c is a bit high. Start at 190c and increase if need be. Note that leadless (silver/copper/tin) solder is harder to work with and it's not like you'll be doing a lot of soldering. Google some basic soldering guides as you're new to it. Note that metals melt at different temperatures. You'll only be melting the tin/lead solder which has quite a low melting point as metal goes. You don't need to think about conductivity and density, that's the solder develper's problem. What you can buy off the shelf/ebay will be fine unless you manage to find something really uncommon and strange.
Last edited:
I'm selling mine for only $60 but only here in asia otherwise the buyer should shoulder the package. Since most people here in HK don't repair stuff so it becomes expensive to have it changed here.
screen just suddenly stopped & a friend opened it up for me to see if it was just a loose connection but confirmed it was the touch screen :crying:
Similar problems
I have replaced LCD+digitizer combos to about 10 HD2s and had similar problems with some. Either it won't turn on with back cover assembled or even more annoying just the LCD won't work with back cover, it just stays black. Without back cover everything works fine. In one case where the phone wouldn't turn on with the back cover assembled i noticed that the battery didn't quite fit in its slot in the back cover so i added a little sponge to the back cover to push battery towards the motherboard contacts and it worked. So far i haven't had any luck with that one phone where the LCD won't work with bc (back cover) assembled. Everything else works fine, including touch, but LCD stays black. I have tried everything i can think of, including resoldering the IC below the reset button but it didn't help. Anyone else having same kind of problems? Any ideas what could help? I have tried 4 LCD+digitizer assemblies already and they all have the same problem with this phone, works fine on other phones. I have tried replacing the bc also but it didn't help.
I have replaced LCD+digitizer combos to about 10 HD2s and had similar problems with some. Either it won't turn on with back cover assembled or even more annoying just the LCD won't work with back cover, it just stays black. Without back cover everything works fine. In one case where the phone wouldn't turn on with the back cover assembled i noticed that the battery didn't quite fit in its slot in the back cover so i added a little sponge to the back cover to push battery towards the motherboard contacts and it worked. So far i haven't had any luck with that one phone where the LCD won't work with bc (back cover) assembled. Everything else works fine, including touch, but LCD stays black. I have tried everything i can think of, including resoldering the IC below the reset button but it didn't help. Anyone else having same kind of problems? Any ideas what could help? I have tried 4 LCD+digitizer assemblies already and they all have the same problem with this phone, works fine on other phones. I have tried replacing the bc also but it didn't help.
Similar threads
Top Liked Posts
-
There are no posts matching your filters.
-
5VIDEO MANUAL HOW TO REPLACE HTC HD2 TOUCH SCREEN
/!\
1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdihThJFyz4
2. Photos & Videos [source] (634mb) - http://en.failiem.lv/down.php?i=ujvdnl&n=HTC_HD2_Touch_Screen_replace_photos_and_videos.rar
Other good stuff:
1. Disassemble Official Video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4 (Without Touch Screen dis.)
2. Assemble back Official Video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54
3. More photos from FloatHeavy - http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=640328
NOTE
If you have T-Mobile HTC, then buy a touch screen with t-mobile logo !! If you have touch without t-mobile logo, then buy without, because the connectors are different!!! (Buy it on ebay)
Thanks.2Hmm.. so do I just follow what you said earlier? I saw the pic you posted, but is that the pic of the lcd plus digitizer once it's off? I'm a total n00b at this but can you put together a step by step guide of how you did yours so I don't have to take more parts out and then later on have extra screws if you know what I mean Also do I get those 3M double sided tape for "iphone" that I see on amazon to tape it together? It doesn't mention anything about that on ifixit
Yeah, that pic is of the LCD+digitizer assembly once it's off, but still connected to the main circuit board by the flex cable. That's why I've lifted it like that, so I don't pull on the flex. What I did was:
1. Remove phone chassis from rear casing by removing 4 screws in the back and using plastic tools to pry it out. There are 2 spots in the top with plastic tabs anchored into the rear housing. I found it worked well to use cut-up credit cards to stick in there to keep the little tabs from sliding back into the rear housing while I worked on the other tabs.
2. Once phone chassis is removed from rear casing, remove 2 strips of tape from the sides. They look like fabric and one has copper. See Step 27 on ifixit writeup.
3. Use a thin, flat, plastic tool to cut through all the double-sided adhesive tape between the LCD module and chassis frame. Notice the gap between two METAL parts - the backing of the LCD module is also metal. This is where you slide your plastic tool. I used a scrap credit card to do this. You will have to go pretty deep near the top of the phone as there is tape up to an inch from the edge. Notice in my pic where the flex cable is? DO NOT go more than 3/16" deep in that area! You do NOT want to cut or tear the flex cable with your tool!!! Also, when you start pulling and lifting the LCD module away from the chassis, BE SURE to lift up on the left side (with screen facing you), allowing the assembly to "hinge" on the right edge. DO NOT lift the right side up more than a few millimeters because the flex is not very long. Also, heating the phone MAY make cutting through the adhesive easier, though I didn't bother to heat mine.
4. Lift the left side of the LCD up (as shown in my pic), then use tweezers to remove the orange tape covering the connector and lift up on the little black latch with a small screwdriver or plastic tool. After you've done that, gently set the LCD back into place.
4. Turn the phone over and remove 3 screws from the bottom logic board as in iFixit step #15. No need to remove the top 2.
5. I disconnected, but did NOT remove the bluetooth cable, from the lower circuit board as in iFixit step #18. You may find it helpful to also disconnect the wiring as shown in iFixit step #16, but I don't think I did.
6. Remove the orange tape and lift up the black latch to remove the button flex as shown in iFixit step #19.
7. Now gently pop up the lower circuit board from the little tabs holding it in and gently lift the side of it where the LCD connector is located away from the frame. Lift it only a few millimeters, you should now be able to see the LCD flex connector between the chassis and circuit board. Use a small tool like a jeweler's screwdriver to slide the flex out of the connector that you unlatched in step 4.
8. Now you should be able to lift the LCD assembly completely off the phone.
9. Removing digitizer from LCD is a matter of cutting through the double-sided tape with a plastic tool. Again, I used a cut-up credit card for this. Try not to go too deep to avoid scratching the LCD.
10. I used just regular clear tape to clean off the left over adhesive from the LCD.
Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Reconnecting the LCD is a little tricky, but it's not bad if you have good manual dexterity. I reconnected/disconnected the LCD several times because sometimes during the process I would hear a crack and it would scare me, so I reconnected the LCD to power up the phone and make sure I didn't crack it! Fortunately, all those sounds that made me nervous came from the old, cracked digitizer.
Lacquer thinner on a Q-tip works well to clean off the old adhesive tape. I'm sure other solvents would work as well.
Also, double-sided tape worked well and should be used to hold the new digitizer onto the LCD, but I found the entire LCD assembly-to-chassis didn't hold well with the double-sided tape I got off eBay. One edge would lift up 1.5 to 2mm after a few days of non-use. I ended up lifting up the LCD again and removing all the double-sided tape and using Permatex adhesive silicone instead, and using big rubber bands to hold it together while it cured. That seems to have worked quite well.
Hope that helps!2
Wait a second, guys!
Due to my research about replacing LCD+Digi, or only the Digitizer, I found out that you DO NOT have to disassemble completely the HD2.
Please have a look at the following video from beginning 0:00 till 1:47.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=A1QL7BNNL0Y
After 1:48 the video shows the rest of the disassembling procedure what is NOT necessary if you only want to replace LCD+Digitizer unit. Therefore: No need to disassemble the whole cables, parts, boards and stuff.
In the next weeks I will try to replace the LCD-Digi-Unit.
I will order this combo: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W1IYXS1
Yes, that is correct. You want the digitizer that says T-Mobile on it, and yes it will be the clip in type, no solder required.1
No, it does not matter which lcd + digitizer combo you get. All versions are the same dimensions.
