PocoF1 photography (Gcam or MIUI)

dsvilko

Member
May 23, 2012
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The only settin that is more-or-less irrelevant for RAW is the WB. Shutter and ISO are as important as when shooting jpeg. 10-15s should be ideal if you don't have a tracking mount. ISO should be high (800-2000).
 

Carlos_EVH

Senior Member
Jul 30, 2013
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Malaga, Sp
You should use RAWs, so settings doesn't matter, they ar only for jpgs. ;) You will need to stack RAWs in an astronomy deep sky stacker (software). Use a tripod and long exposures, but not so long, because you would capture star traces.
The only settin that is more-or-less irrelevant for RAW is the WB. Shutter and ISO are as important as when shooting jpeg. 10-15s should be ideal if you don't have a tracking mount. ISO should be high (800-2000).
So in DeepSkyCamera, Whitebalance auto, high ISO, Exposure time around 10-15 seconds, and, for example 30 frames, right? I'll try It when I'll go to a friend's house in a zero noise light area.
 

dsvilko

Member
May 23, 2012
47
22
0
So in DeepSkyCamera, Whitebalance auto, high ISO, Exposure time around 10-15 seconds, and, for example 30 frames, right? I'll try It when I'll go to a friend's house in a zero noise light area.
That sounds about right. Just don't forget to also take dark frames (the same settings and ideally the same number of exposures but with the lens completely covered). You'll also need a dedicated software to later process the images (I've used a free Siril). For even better results you could take separate flat and bias exposures to even further remove the sensor aberrations.
 
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roursamajor

Senior Member
Feb 22, 2013
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Braila
ursamajorbr.blogspot.ro
Using scraps, I made an adapter for microscop/telescope. I used a mounting piece for action camera on the handlebar of the bike and a clamping piece for phones. Using a piece of dural bar I asembled the two pieces together. The result is a solid adapter for the microscope/telescope's eyepieces. Me happy! :laugh:
 

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