.2 mm should be fine, I estimate these pads to be roughly .2 mm, so you'd have to be careful but should be just right. Would definitely reccomend a magnifying glass or microscope working that small though.
Root for J7 Crown (S767VL)? Straight Talk/Tracfone/Total Wireless phone.
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.2 mm should be fine, I estimate these pads to be roughly .2 mm, so you'd have to be careful but should be just right. Would definitely reccomend a magnifying glass or microscope working that small though.
Droidriven
Senior Member
If you can apply it to a small enough area without spilling/spreading to other contacts, this should work, it should provide a secure connection with the contact since the adhesive is conductive all the way through it..
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---------- Post added at 11:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:17 AM ----------
I've never used the equipment myself, but I've watched videos of soldering experts, they use a setup that cleanly applies solder to contacts on motherboards in a way that the solder is drawn to only the pads instead of spreading out and contacting across pads. I don't know what they are using to do it with this much control but it seemed pretty faultless with little risk of messing it up.
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When soldering that small surface tension is your friend, the solder likes to join other blobs that are stuck to the tinned pads. When working with ic's, you can just drag a small soldering iron along the line and they all get soldered correctly with little bridging.
My calipers are acting up, but the pad widths seem to be about .2 mm and spaced out .5 mm horizontally, .1 mm vertically. From my understanding of the paste, you have to make sure the paste blobs dont touch. Sounds like the best solution so far without a expensive soldering setup.
Droidriven
Senior Member
Exactly, that was my observation, they were dragging the solder across multiple pads and the solder automatically went to each pad, they used some solution that they surrounded the work area with, to keep out oxygen and impurities I'd assume.
As for the glue, I'd apply a small blob about the size of the pad to the tip of my wire then carefully touch the wire to the pad. Also, after applying, if there is any extraneous glue crossing the pads, I'd carefully scrape it away to separate the pads before I attempted applying power to anything.
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Deleted member 10802473
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Alright I ordered the glue 
---------- Post added at 10:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 AM ----------
---------- Post added at 10:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 AM ----------
Are you talking about the labeled pads by the battery connector?
Alright I ordered the glue
---------- Post added at 10:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 AM ----------
Are you talking about the labeled pads by the battery connector?
Yes, the labeled pads. The other pads I found dont seem to be what we are looking for from my testing.
Louis Rossman? The solution they use is a paste flux, I ordered a tube myself, that stuff is awesome! It just helps the solder stay liquid and be generally easier to work with, also good for cleaning the board if there is junk on the area your working with.
Droidriven
Senior Member
Yep, love that guy. Right to repair, screw Apple. Not that I'm an Apple user, just saying.
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Droidriven
Senior Member
Those conductive pens that I mentioned are also good for "redrawing" the circuit lanes in a PCB that has been burned, cracked, broken or corroded, between that and a good rig to use for rebuilding pads and replacing/reflowing components, you could just about rebuild any motherboard to full function with a steady hand and patience. Potentially even one that has been broken in half of you can cleanly glue the broken edges back together in perfect alignment then use the pen to jump the gap in the broken lanes .
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---------- Post added at 01:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:06 PM ----------
Can you give my detailed photos of every part of the motherboard that has some kind of model or serial number printed on it? Not the Samsung model number. It is no surprise that it is a rebrand 737. That information might even come in handy, the things that have been developed for the 737 "should" be able to be used on the 767 because the chipset hasn't change, it's pretty much only the bootloader and binary versions that we are trying to get around. If they can be bypassed, anything for 737 "should" work.
Anyway, the point is, if I can identify the board itself, I might be able to find schematics. It would not surprise me if that same board has been contracted/used by other manufacturers in other devices with some rearrangement/redesign of the components to fit other case designs and orientation of hardware buttons or external connectors/ports/jacks.
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Deleted member 10802473
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Yes I'll get those pictures taken today
Guys I bought another J7 crown on Amazon and it was on 8.1 Oreo and it wouldn't update to Android 9.0. So, I manually updated it with Odin to Android 9.0 and I booted into download mode and it says
FRP lock: Off
And
KG state: Prenormal
I thought for everyone else it said checking? And FRP lock was on?
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Droidriven
Senior Member
Probably shouldn't have updated, the lower the binary, the better these days, lol.Yes I'll get those pictures taken today
Guys I bought another J7 crown on Amazon and it was on 8.1 Oreo and it wouldn't update to Android 9.0. So, I manually updated it with Odin to Android 9.0 and I booted into download mode and it says
FRP lock: Off
And
KG state: Prenormal
I thought for everyone else it said checking? And FRP lock was on?
Picture: https://ibb.co/hWQ971K
They probably properly removed their account and disabled "Find my device" before they sold it, this would show FRP off.
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Deleted member 10802473
Guest
Does that mean anything? That KG state is prenormal and the FRP lock is off? After 7 days will it let me unlock the bootloader?
Also before I updated when I exited download mode it brought me to a maintence boot mode that I haven't seen on this device before. As yes I probably shouldn't of updated lol.
Droidriven
Senior Member
I don't know about the 7 days.
I'd have to know more about what you saw on that boot screen.
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D
Deleted member 10802473
Guest
Droidriven
Senior Member
Never seen that mode, I would not have updated, they may have unlocked and modified the device already somehow.
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Deleted member 10802473
Guest
I had to update because I tried to flash the Magisk patched AP file because I thought that maybe it was unlocked but it failed so then I flashed stock Android 9.0. I guess I could of flashed Android 8.1 stock but I didn't feel like waiting 2 hours for it to download.
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Droidriven
Senior Member
Should have flashed the same 8 firmware that it already had, but, ah well, too late now.
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D
Deleted member 10802473
Guest
well do you think it's somehow modified or unlocked? If so, how would they do it? Maybe that phone is somehow rootable?
Droidriven
Senior Member
Whatever "was" there, no longer is, it upgraded the bootloader which wiped everything from before.
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D
Deleted member 10802473
Guest
Then why is download mode still different? Why does it show FRP lock off and KG state prenormal?
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If anyone has anything they would like to add to what I am posting in order to be more specific or definitive of what I am attempting to discuss, please, do not hesitate to post it.
There are things encoded at the hardware level that do not get changed or flashed when flashing Samsung devices, there are hardware components that have their own independent "firmware", so to speak. These components retain their original firmware regardless of what you flash on the device's internal memory(this is very similar to the BIOS chip in your PC that stays the same regardless of what OS you install or how many times you wipe the system and reinstall the OS). If the software that we flash on the internal storage does not pass the signature/security checks encoded in these components that have independent firmware at first boot, the device becomes software-bricked or can even be hardware-bricked. In other words, there are hardware components that are checking the bootloader to verify it is the correct bootloader, if not verified, the device fails to boot at that point(this usually results in a hard-brick), if verified, the bootloader checks the software that it is about to boot, if verified by the bootloader, the device continues to boot, if not verified, the device fails to boot at that point(this usually results in a soft-brick, but can potentially hard-brick). Software-brick is potentially repairable, hardware-brick is not repairable without new hardware replacements or expensive external hardware components and software tools for PC and some rather complicated methods to perform a hard-brick recovery.
In some ways and some instances, it can be a mixture of hardware level checks, bootloader checks and kernel checks before it even gets to attempting to boot at the software level. If these checks don't all agree with each other, the device cannot function properly, sometimes, not at all.
All of this is to say that 1 of 2 things will likely happen when flashing Refine firmware on our devices.
1) our locked bootloader will possibly block the install due to the refine firmware not passing our bootloader's signature/security checks.
Or
2) the firmware might successfully flash without any errors but will potentially brick the device on first boot due to not passing the bootloader's signature/security checks.
If you feel like being a trailblazer, take the chance yourself and see if it works. The rest of us choose to not take the chance in order to prevent a "worst case" scenario.
Side note****
I would like to know how they got Modaco Superboot to unlock bootloader on a Samsung device. Modaco superboot uses fastboot commands to achieve it's purpose. Now, here's the real question, how did they get fastboot to do anything to a Samsung device when Samsung devices do not even have fastboot functionality, no fastboot mode, no bootloader mode? Samsung has it's own version of "bootloader mode" but it isn't the same thing as the "fastboot related" bootloader mode. On Samsung it's called Download Mode which is only compatible with specific tools, not fastboot.
ADB works perfectly fine on Samsung, but fastboot can't do anything with Samsung.
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Yes, several times, with several additional modifications trying to get it to work, but it is pointless, it still blocks the patched .img and also still blocks TWRP.
I chased this for weeks on end trying different tricks and methods, nothing worked, didn't even get close to working.
On engineering firmware, OEM unlocked, RMM/KG status stated "checking", RMM/KG status not set to pre-normal(which should allow patched .img or TWRP to flash). But still no success, regardless of what is tried. I've tried everything except finding/buying a ENG root firmware(which doesn't exist for this device). I've exhausted every method and tool that I've learned/discovered in all the years I've been dealing with android customization, NOTHING works, period. We just are not going to get past the locked bootloader on this device, it is a pointless endeavor, Verizon/Tracfone has this device locked down air-tight.
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Not necessarily, the "OEM unlock" setting does not always, itself, unlock the bootloader. Sometimes, it is a setting that puts the device in a state that the bootloader "can" be unlocked via the compatible unlock method, if one exists for the device.
For instance, on a fastboot capable device, one would enable the "OEM unlock" setting, then boot to fastboot mode and issue the correct fastboot commands to unlock bootloader, or, after enabling the setting, one would obtain the necessary information/codes to unlock then visit a specific website to enter the info/codes and maybe use a couple of specific PC programs to unlock.
In a manner of speaking, it can be a kind of cover over the keyhole that allows you to insert the key to unlock the lock, you just need the correct key to release the lock once the cover is removed from the keyhole.
But, you are right, in a sense. Some devices that have this setting are completely unlocked just by toggling this setting, but this does not apply to all devices, in all cases.
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