thanks IceFragmatic, this is happening and you chosen the right fix. for others wondering where this switch is, you can see it here
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Hardware Development TEYES Australia
- Thread starter TEYESAustralia
- Start date
hey EvODevX it sounds exactly as what Elmer123456 has quoted from the information and from what you measured, you need to find your missing acc, if its correct, check that the fuse has not blown
Bottom right hand corner for me works every time, pull gently till 1 of the clips pop, then work your way around
We have people using PS5 controller by changing the config.txt bluetooth=1 to =0 to enable it
you will need to reinstall the firmware once you save this config.txt edit
Firmware Update Log
January 2023 Regular CC3 Firmware
Regular CC3 - January 2023 (06.01.2023)
1. The problem was solved with the fact that the latest version of the YANDEX navigator was not displayed in picture-in-picture mode after launch, but could only be displayed after opening in full-screen mode. The new version supports direct image-in-picture mode.2. Some problems in displaying the picture-in-picture mode caused by voice control commands have been resolved.
3. A voltage display has been added to the status bar. At the same time, please note that the voltage display cannot be a fully accurate value and is used only as reference information." General settings" -- "Tension display".
4. Added the function of delaying going to sleep after turning off the car.
"General settings" -- "Delayed shutdown" (last item).
5. The display of news and exchange rates for Russian-speaking regions has been added to the black and white interface mode.
6. For the main CC3 interface, the function of sliding left and right has been added. By clicking on the screen to the side, you can go to the next page, as well as customise and add widgets of third-party applications.
7. According to user needs, the TEYES RADIO playback algorithm has been changed when there is no network connection: when loading the next channel, you need to return to the current channel load. Update the application version number to 2.2.
8. Added the function of displaying the external temperature in the status bar obtained via CANBUS. This function only works if CANBUS is able to obtain data on the outdoor temperature.
- Copy these files directly to the main directory of a blank USB stick (FAT32)
- Plug it into the USB slot of the CC3
- After a few seconds the prompt asks if you want install
- Press OK
January 2023 Regular CC3 Firmware
to set up auto start app after the device boot up, you dont need 3rd party apps
go to settings -- general -- autorun at boot
for wifi auto turn on. you would need an app on your phone to auto detect bluetooth device and turn its hotspot on so that the wifi of the teyes unit will detect and connect
below will assist you to allow wifi on the unit to always be on so assist you in this process
angle test with brightness set to max, there is a noticeable difference
bluetooth tether is working for me, follow this quick guide
not sure about your last question, inbox a picture of what you mean
Ok, so I just solved a massive headache with my teyes CC3 audio. And I will explain how and what. It concerns not working rear speakers. The worst part is that Teyes has no instructions AT ALL for the A3/A4 and I had to either figure this out on my own or with the help of people here on the forum or a bit of help of the teyes technical support which cost me about a week. However I want to enable people to have a smooth install with their A3 as the headunit itsself is fantastic and seriously worth the money.
To start first the (overall very few) issues I had with it and how to solve them (also link to a video I made about all but #1 at the end):
1. The frame of the A3 being to small
The actual frame fits exactly into the gap that the OEM radio you take out leaves behind. The issue is the tabs that are supposed to hold it in place. They are too widely moldel. What I mean is that they are molded in such a way that they are wider than is needed to make them fit. As such it is a PAIN to get them in.
A big tip I can give is the 3 first then 1 method. Get the bottom 2 in by pressing on them and then 1 of the 2 top ones. Or one side in and then pry the other 2 in. But the last one will be VERY hard to press in and I highly reccomend a interior trim removal kit tool to press it with to the inside. It will help give you leverage.
3 will click into place and the last one will be ehhhh kind of in there but if you press it in it should sit flush. I can say from experience you can expect that 1 of the 2 top tabs will slightly break away from the main mold but it should hold.
now big thing. DO NOT SCREW THE CC3 INTO THE FRAME. You can but removing it will be extremely hard as the frame will sit 100% flush with the dash and even getting a prying tool into 1 of the corners is next to impossible.
Ideally, get the frame in first, THEN do the wiring. and press the unit in afterwards. One thing that helps remove it is if you attach a sort of tab with tape or glue that will stick out (tape maybe is the easiest?) so you can use it as a pull cord and pull the unit out that way.
2. The unit not powering on at all (also explained in the video).
So this is one is a headbreaker and I almost thought I needed to ship the unit back.
I installed the unit and connected all the wires as they should be (based on other videos) but nothing after I powered on the car. Optical out on the back however did light up for a bit and then went blank.
The issue was as following. On the main cable harnass you get there are 2 boxes that lead to a. the CANBUS box connector and b. The main power/connector that goes into the G slot on the diagram.
The harnass for the A3 8p has 2!!!! boxes where it begins. A " quadlock" that will fit on the 8p" and a different one that will NOT fit.
Now it seems that from factor they connect the ACCESORY wire, which in my case was orange (look up the diagram supplied with the unit to see which cable it should be), to the connection box that will NOT FIT. So you have an empty box like connector that has many wires on of which was orange with a 2 pin connector. There is an IDENTICAL but loose wire with 2 pins on the quadlock connector. You need to UNPLUG the accesory cable from that wrong harnass and connect it to the wire that runs to the quadlock connector. That will make the unit turn on and work.
3. NON WORKING REAR SPEAKERS (NON BOSE)
So this has been posted many many times on many forums but there has been no consise solution explained so I will attempt my best.
If you get the CC3 unit and connect all the wires you need to choose 1 of 2 extra cables included. One has the mic connector, sim card tray, AMP-C wire and the AUX L and R connectors. the other is Some fo those but mostly RCA cables. But for both it works the same.
First of all, and this is NOT EXPLAINED AT ALL ANYWHERE, you need to take the AMP cable (blue and white) that comes off the quadlock AND ISO connector (they are joined together in the factory AND HAVE A SEETHROUGH BLUE CAP ON THE END) and connect it to the AMP-C cable (solid blue) coming off the second set of wires you plug in.
The issue is that you need to strip the isolation of both ends and then twist the exposed leads together to get the front amplifier to work at all...... then once that is done you use electrical tape to secure and insulate it. Now the front amp will work. The front speakers will with either the cables connected or not.
Now onto the rear speakers. Teyes has only now after I and other mailed them started selling an extra harness that you need to make the rear ones and sub work. The A3 and A4 are half amplified cars. This means that the headunit is supposed to also provide power and a turn on signal to the rear amp that is built into the speakers.
However, the unit does not have enough power to do that on its own. Its impedance is too low. You need the following harness it will not work without : https://teyes.eu/products/special-p...t?shpxid=020fa858-1cb9-4173-964f-bcd43d2a8198
This harness goes in between the original quadlock of the car and the quadlock connector of the CC3 unit. it changes the impedance of the speakers and makes it so the unit has enough power to power the rear amp and speakers.
This harness is also sold by XTRONS under a different name. Look around and you will find it.
A tip I can give is that you may need to adjust the amount of impedance by using a small flathead screwdriver to turn the 4 knobs in the transparent cases (see pic below). You need to have it all plugged in and working to hear (you need to listen to the audio) but if they are set too much to 1 of the 2 sides (I think clockwise?) The harness wont work and the amps are silent. Completely the other way and the amps work and the sound is of good loudness.
View attachment 5821291
I hope this helps at least 1 person and saves them from the heart attacks and stress this caused me.
Here is a link to my video explaining this post:
To start first the (overall very few) issues I had with it and how to solve them (also link to a video I made about all but #1 at the end):
1. The frame of the A3 being to small
The actual frame fits exactly into the gap that the OEM radio you take out leaves behind. The issue is the tabs that are supposed to hold it in place. They are too widely moldel. What I mean is that they are molded in such a way that they are wider than is needed to make them fit. As such it is a PAIN to get them in.
A big tip I can give is the 3 first then 1 method. Get the bottom 2 in by pressing on them and then 1 of the 2 top ones. Or one side in and then pry the other 2 in. But the last one will be VERY hard to press in and I highly reccomend a interior trim removal kit tool to press it with to the inside. It will help give you leverage.
3 will click into place and the last one will be ehhhh kind of in there but if you press it in it should sit flush. I can say from experience you can expect that 1 of the 2 top tabs will slightly break away from the main mold but it should hold.
now big thing. DO NOT SCREW THE CC3 INTO THE FRAME. You can but removing it will be extremely hard as the frame will sit 100% flush with the dash and even getting a prying tool into 1 of the corners is next to impossible.
Ideally, get the frame in first, THEN do the wiring. and press the unit in afterwards. One thing that helps remove it is if you attach a sort of tab with tape or glue that will stick out (tape maybe is the easiest?) so you can use it as a pull cord and pull the unit out that way.
2. The unit not powering on at all (also explained in the video).
So this is one is a headbreaker and I almost thought I needed to ship the unit back.
I installed the unit and connected all the wires as they should be (based on other videos) but nothing after I powered on the car. Optical out on the back however did light up for a bit and then went blank.
The issue was as following. On the main cable harnass you get there are 2 boxes that lead to a. the CANBUS box connector and b. The main power/connector that goes into the G slot on the diagram.
The harnass for the A3 8p has 2!!!! boxes where it begins. A " quadlock" that will fit on the 8p" and a different one that will NOT fit.
Now it seems that from factor they connect the ACCESORY wire, which in my case was orange (look up the diagram supplied with the unit to see which cable it should be), to the connection box that will NOT FIT. So you have an empty box like connector that has many wires on of which was orange with a 2 pin connector. There is an IDENTICAL but loose wire with 2 pins on the quadlock connector. You need to UNPLUG the accesory cable from that wrong harnass and connect it to the wire that runs to the quadlock connector. That will make the unit turn on and work.
3. NON WORKING REAR SPEAKERS (NON BOSE)
So this has been posted many many times on many forums but there has been no consise solution explained so I will attempt my best.
If you get the CC3 unit and connect all the wires you need to choose 1 of 2 extra cables included. One has the mic connector, sim card tray, AMP-C wire and the AUX L and R connectors. the other is Some fo those but mostly RCA cables. But for both it works the same.
First of all, and this is NOT EXPLAINED AT ALL ANYWHERE, you need to take the AMP cable (blue and white) that comes off the quadlock AND ISO connector (they are joined together in the factory AND HAVE A SEETHROUGH BLUE CAP ON THE END) and connect it to the AMP-C cable (solid blue) coming off the second set of wires you plug in.
The issue is that you need to strip the isolation of both ends and then twist the exposed leads together to get the front amplifier to work at all...... then once that is done you use electrical tape to secure and insulate it. Now the front amp will work. The front speakers will with either the cables connected or not.
Now onto the rear speakers. Teyes has only now after I and other mailed them started selling an extra harness that you need to make the rear ones and sub work. The A3 and A4 are half amplified cars. This means that the headunit is supposed to also provide power and a turn on signal to the rear amp that is built into the speakers.
However, the unit does not have enough power to do that on its own. Its impedance is too low. You need the following harness it will not work without : https://teyes.eu/products/special-p...t?shpxid=020fa858-1cb9-4173-964f-bcd43d2a8198
This harness goes in between the original quadlock of the car and the quadlock connector of the CC3 unit. it changes the impedance of the speakers and makes it so the unit has enough power to power the rear amp and speakers.
This harness is also sold by XTRONS under a different name. Look around and you will find it.
A tip I can give is that you may need to adjust the amount of impedance by using a small flathead screwdriver to turn the 4 knobs in the transparent cases (see pic below). You need to have it all plugged in and working to hear (you need to listen to the audio) but if they are set too much to 1 of the 2 sides (I think clockwise?) The harness wont work and the amps are silent. Completely the other way and the amps work and the sound is of good loudness.
View attachment 5821291
I hope this helps at least 1 person and saves them from the heart attacks and stress this caused me.
Here is a link to my video explaining this post:
Warning! do not put the regular CC3 firmware on the CC3 2K or the resolution is no longer optimised
The firmware can be found here
CC3 2K Firmware
Effects of wrong firmware on the 2K screen
The firmware can be found here
CC3 2K Firmware
Effects of wrong firmware on the 2K screen
Last edited:
Thanks! Just verifying: this will work for the cc3 360? It says it's for the cc3 plus. My understanding is that the plus has a higher resolution and the 360 has an entirely different motherboard than the standard cc3.
No there is no ETA if this will be made available for the cc3 360, and it is now called the CC3 2K. Due to structural issues with some enclosing frames not aligning with the 2K screen mic and reset positions, there is more to announce later
see here CC3 2K firmware
We know you you will do anything to advertise your products but at least answer the question asked.
This is so confusing.
I asked if there would be a January firmware for the cc3 360, which is the unit I have.
You gave me a link for the cc3 2k.
I don't want to brick my 360 by installing 2k firmware, so I asked if that was really the right firmware. Your answer is that the is no ETA but that the 360 is now called the 2k?
There's no way that's correct. The cc3 360 is not a 2k screen.
It's such a simple question and I'm not sure which one of us is confused. Let me try again:
Do you know if/when there will be a firmware update for the cc3 360 which has a different motherboard than the cc3 and is not a 2k screen?
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Moderator Announcement
This thread has been cleaned already multiple times - and I just did it again! The scope of this thread has been clearly defined and announced. If somebody doesn't like these left and right arcs or the thread, please just move on without posting. I've also removed (hopefully) all links and references to a specific Russian phone related website (not affiliated with XDA at all), other social media and commercial websites. XDA is not just another social media; it's a privately owned website that runs based on its own Forum Rules implemented by the site owners. If someone is unhappy with the rules, please contact the site owner or administrators. If you're unable to accept a thread's existence, please just report the thread or contact any moderator privately but don't post your disagreement in a thread.
I've now subscribed to this thread and will monitor it closely. I reserve the right to temporarily or permanently revoke write permissions in this thread from any poster whose post is not in line with the forum rules and the above quoted guidance.
Regards
Oswald Boelcke
Senior Moderator
@TEYESAustralia Please provide your support here in the thread and refrain from attempts to drag members to whatever private means. Only public support helps all XDA members. A thread that doesn't provide this public support is eventually going to be closed.
I've removed every link I found to your commercial website. Please don't use it in this thread.8Hello all, TEYES Australia is now online. The audience is not just Australia but a more western audience.
XDA members are thorough in their questions and suggestions. Any value adding advice for the site would be greatly appreciated.
Trolls, attacks and off topic commentary will be removed to keep this thread precise and on point for those looking for information.
This thread is not for urgent enquiries that need fast responses. If you have an order number you can contact us directly, if not we will reply in time in here when our schedule permits
Thank you all!7
The OP had a discussion with us and it was decided that he will not be permitted to sell here but offer technical support only. So anything connected to prices, comparisons with other units/manufacturers etc will be outside the understanding.
Guys, why don't we take him at face value and see whether he is offering support or not? I agree that the reputation of resellers has taken a beating but why don't we give him a chance? Even if he is able to resolve some issues of atleast some users, his being on XDA would be justified.
I hope you all understand that it was in the interest of the users that it was decided to permit him to operate here.5MOD ACTION:
Thread cleaned.
I have said this before and I will say it again.
This thread is allowed for tech support of the products. Any post not relevant to that is off topic and will be removed.
Next time it happens, there may be harsher reactions because we can't be simply cleaning threads of off topic posts.
And once anyone reports a post as violative of the Rules, please stop responding to that post in the thread. If you do not, it becomes difficult to identify the offender and initiate action.
Please cooperate so that all the users have a pleasant experience here.
Thank you.4{Mod edit: Quoted post has been deleted}
I'm an Australian buyer who has just purchased and received a CC3 through Teyes Australia. I sent Dan from Teyes Australia numerous emails with questions and he always answered within hours. I never expected that he would stock in Australia the thousands of possible wiring and facia kits. His contact details and phone number are all over the Teyes Aus website.
One of the main concerns I had was the facia for my 2017 Kia Soul. There are two available and the one for the Australian spec Soul showed two extra cutouts that I didn't need. He was straight onto the supplier/warehouse in China to check the stock and had a photo of my facia back that very evening. It was perfect.
There are two possible radios in the series 2 Soul and two possible wiring plugs. The kit was delivered with both possible plugs which made basic install really easy.
I am going to chase Dan up with a couple of improvement requests. I hope that with his contacts back in China that he might be able to get a result.
- the ability to export video files from the dashcam DVR to the hard drive or a USB stick
- how do I get Australian radio icons added to the radio unit. It appears to be based on gps coordinates. Do I specify Sydney NSW, or my specific outer suburb location. ?
My overall impression of Dan from Teyes is 5 out of 5. The local logistics company they use only gets a 2 out of 5. It sat in limbo in Australia for nearly 2 weeks before being delivered. Their website said they attempted delivery once but I was home all day and they didn't. When it finally turned up it was in a small sedan hatch packed to the roof with boxes. Not at all professional.
My thoughts on the CC3 ? It is excellent. It looks fantastic in my Soul and a vast improvement. Everything works well. I modified the wiring to use my existing 6 volt rear view camera but the resolution looks pretty [email protected] on the high res screen. My next project might be to retrofit the new camera to the existing moulding in the rear hatch.
