Hey there. Thanks for your help on YouTube. I tried sending the link for fascia trim that fits better but it wouldn’t post there. I got it on eBay.Ok, so I just solved a massive headache with my teyes CC3 audio. And I will explain how and what. It concerns not working rear speakers. The worst part is that Teyes has no instructions AT ALL for the A3/A4 and I had to either figure this out on my own or with the help of people here on the forum or a bit of help of the teyes technical support which cost me about a week. However I want to enable people to have a smooth install with their A3 as the headunit itsself is fantastic and seriously worth the money.
To start first the (overall very few) issues I had with it and how to solve them (also link to a video I made about all but #1 at the end):
1. The frame of the A3 being to small
The actual frame fits exactly into the gap that the OEM radio you take out leaves behind. The issue is the tabs that are supposed to hold it in place. They are too widely moldel. What I mean is that they are molded in such a way that they are wider than is needed to make them fit. As such it is a PAIN to get them in.
A big tip I can give is the 3 first then 1 method. Get the bottom 2 in by pressing on them and then 1 of the 2 top ones. Or one side in and then pry the other 2 in. But the last one will be VERY hard to press in and I highly reccomend a interior trim removal kit tool to press it with to the inside. It will help give you leverage.
3 will click into place and the last one will be ehhhh kind of in there but if you press it in it should sit flush. I can say from experience you can expect that 1 of the 2 top tabs will slightly break away from the main mold but it should hold.
now big thing. DO NOT SCREW THE CC3 INTO THE FRAME. You can but removing it will be extremely hard as the frame will sit 100% flush with the dash and even getting a prying tool into 1 of the corners is next to impossible.
Ideally, get the frame in first, THEN do the wiring. and press the unit in afterwards. One thing that helps remove it is if you attach a sort of tab with tape or glue that will stick out (tape maybe is the easiest?) so you can use it as a pull cord and pull the unit out that way.
2. The unit not powering on at all (also explained in the video).
So this is one is a headbreaker and I almost thought I needed to ship the unit back.
I installed the unit and connected all the wires as they should be (based on other videos) but nothing after I powered on the car. Optical out on the back however did light up for a bit and then went blank.
The issue was as following. On the main cable harnass you get there are 2 boxes that lead to a. the CANBUS box connector and b. The main power/connector that goes into the G slot on the diagram.
The harnass for the A3 8p has 2!!!! boxes where it begins. A " quadlock" that will fit on the 8p" and a different one that will NOT fit.
Now it seems that from factor they connect the ACCESORY wire, which in my case was orange (look up the diagram supplied with the unit to see which cable it should be), to the connection box that will NOT FIT. So you have an empty box like connector that has many wires on of which was orange with a 2 pin connector. There is an IDENTICAL but loose wire with 2 pins on the quadlock connector. You need to UNPLUG the accesory cable from that wrong harnass and connect it to the wire that runs to the quadlock connector. That will make the unit turn on and work.
3. NON WORKING REAR SPEAKERS (NON BOSE)
So this has been posted many many times on many forums but there has been no consise solution explained so I will attempt my best.
If you get the CC3 unit and connect all the wires you need to choose 1 of 2 extra cables included. One has the mic connector, sim card tray, AMP-C wire and the AUX L and R connectors. the other is Some fo those but mostly RCA cables. But for both it works the same.
First of all, and this is NOT EXPLAINED AT ALL ANYWHERE, you need to take the AMP cable (blue and white) that comes off the quadlock AND ISO connector (they are joined together in the factory AND HAVE A SEETHROUGH BLUE CAP ON THE END) and connect it to the AMP-C cable (solid blue) coming off the second set of wires you plug in.
The issue is that you need to strip the isolation of both ends and then twist the exposed leads together to get the front amplifier to work at all...... then once that is done you use electrical tape to secure and insulate it. Now the front amp will work. The front speakers will with either the cables connected or not.
Now onto the rear speakers. Teyes has only now after I and other mailed them started selling an extra harness that you need to make the rear ones and sub work. The A3 and A4 are half amplified cars. This means that the headunit is supposed to also provide power and a turn on signal to the rear amp that is built into the speakers.
However, the unit does not have enough power to do that on its own. Its impedance is too low. You need the following harness it will not work without : https://teyes.eu/products/special-p...t?shpxid=020fa858-1cb9-4173-964f-bcd43d2a8198
This harness goes in between the original quadlock of the car and the quadlock connector of the CC3 unit. it changes the impedance of the speakers and makes it so the unit has enough power to power the rear amp and speakers.
This harness is also sold by XTRONS under a different name. Look around and you will find it.
A tip I can give is that you may need to adjust the amount of impedance by using a small flathead screwdriver to turn the 4 knobs in the transparent cases (see pic below). You need to have it all plugged in and working to hear (you need to listen to the audio) but if they are set too much to 1 of the 2 sides (I think clockwise?) The harness wont work and the amps are silent. Completely the other way and the amps work and the sound is of good loudness.
View attachment 5821291
I hope this helps at least 1 person and saves them from the heart attacks and stress this caused me.
Here is a link to my video explaining this post:
This is the link:
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