TF201 DIY screen replacement

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ThomasKJ

Member
Aug 15, 2012
6
8
Hi,

It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.

The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck:(

I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.

With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.

Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.

The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)

Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).

Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).

Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!

I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!

Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.

Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!

I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.

I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.

Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.

They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.

I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
 

ThomasKJ

Member
Aug 15, 2012
6
8
Continued...



SUMMARY/LEARNING:

- IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE

- IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!

- WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)

- WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD

I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
 

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JaNkIz

Member
Jun 22, 2011
12
3
Brooklyn, NY
Happened to me too!

Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.

So what have i learned from this?
1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)


Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
 
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mihaylov-stas

Member
Aug 23, 2012
5
0
Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!

I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.

I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be stouchscreenupported.

Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.
I have exact same problem with the touchscreen. X-AXIS is reverted but not fully, touchscreen works off pressing like a mirror on the left to the right.
I'ts video youtu.be/XUN_0q5I4ng
my touchscreen partnumber is same.
Сould you upload photos of the touchscreen cables differences between what you had originally and those that worked not correctly?
 

xixoxix

Member
Aug 26, 2010
19
6
I have the same problem x-axis is reverted. Still wonder why? The original broken glass/digitizer was working fine.
Please share if you guys found the solution. I will do it too.
Thank!
 

Wahaha123

Senior Member
Dec 7, 2011
293
34
Sta. Rosa, Laguna
Theres a vid about this. i will post it soon. i'm only using my phone. my prime is with my dad in china. i dont know when i'm getting it back in 2 or mor week i guess? surely i'll be noob again when i get it back.
 

mechadream

Member
Aug 15, 2012
23
1
I have the same problem too. Broken digitizer & lcd.. Got a replacement digitizer and the x-axis was inverted, sent it back and got the full refund.

After that i texted a few mails with another seller that knows the problem, he told me there are two versions of digitizers for the tf201. He sent out the (i hope) right one today, I will post the seller if this one works (takes about two weeks to get it..)

OP started this thread in another forum I found via google search where some guy figured out how to fix the x-axis problem by changing something in the source.. however I think he will release a patch after some more testing but he can't test right now because he has no lcd atm. Here's the thread:

bit.ly/OXx6us (hope it's allowed to post this)
 

dimbazzo

Member
Nov 28, 2010
5
2
same thing

I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.

I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)

Here is my video:
 
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Nightpath

Senior Member
Aug 8, 2010
194
14
I'm waiting to hear from someone if they found a supplier that will send the right screen, or if they know how to compile the kernel to make the screwed up screens work right.

Kind of holding off ordering mine at the moment.
 

t_r_j

Senior Member
Apr 12, 2012
72
12
All of a sudden there are a lot of these for sale on Ebay.
And there hasn't been much chatter on defective ones lately.
Makes me wonder if it was just a specific seller that had a bad batch.
Caught a guy trying to sell his TF201 with a broken LCD that he claims broke while replacing the digitizer.
Turns out he is trying to sell his with one of the inverted digitizers and not stating so in the auction.
I ordered a replacement from New Jersy and canceled the one from china I will see what happens when it gets here.
I will definately test it before I tape it down.
 

Nightpath

Senior Member
Aug 8, 2010
194
14
If it works let me know. I'm in Canada and would rather pay a bit more for a properly working one than some knockoff that I have to be a programmer to get working.
 

mechadream

Member
Aug 15, 2012
23
1
Any news on your replacement yet?

I got my second replacement-digitizer and it's inverted too.. so frustrating!

As there are so many people with this problem I hope some expierienced guy will take a look at the touchscreen-driver and post a little workaround. It is possible to fix this problem by editing the driver but I don't know how it exactly has to be done. :rolleyes:
 

rodrigofla

New member
Sep 4, 2012
2
0
I will share my problem.

My screen broke, however, the LCD and touch still worked.

I ordered a new screen for ASUS authorized service, because using a tablet with a cracked screen is horrible.

I thought it would be posted only the digitizer, but no, the Asus offers LCD screen with digitizer, it is not necessary to work to separate the two parts.

A professional did the replacement.

The problem is that the new set is crazy.
When the tablet is horizontal | === |,
* think that is vertically
| = |
| = |
* and otherwise also.

I think I was unlucky.
* I'm about to order a new set, this time, buy direct from asusparts.eu
 

Nightpath

Senior Member
Aug 8, 2010
194
14
Hmmm...where exactly did you order your first digitizer (touchscreen)? And that site you linked sucks, no pictures of any of the items to make sure you're getting the right one.
 

t_r_j

Senior Member
Apr 12, 2012
72
12
Received mine yesterday, [email protected]#$** piece of crap!!
It is inverted,it is going back.

First they wanted to give me a discount to keep it, idiots!
Then theyy want to send me another in exchange, they don't seem to understand the problem is they are all going to be the same if they are from the same batch.
Any one found a source for a good one yet?
I am going to try and see if Asus will sell them directly to the end user.
They sell laptop parts, so maybe they will do a digitizer.
I'll post my findings.
 

Nightpath

Senior Member
Aug 8, 2010
194
14
Cool. I work long days here in Canada (military, sigh) so I don't get much of a chance to do anything. Let me know as soon as you find out TRJ
 

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  • 4
    Hi,

    It seem like there are a lot of people that has TF201s with broken screens, but very little information about how to DIY screen replacement, so I wanted to post my bad experience here as a warning to people, so that they know what they get into.

    The screen on my TF201 cracked (dropped on the floor - only the screen was damaged, the LCD and digitizer still worked) so I searched around the web to find ways to replace the screen - without luck:(

    I did find instructions on how to open the device and I also found original glass/digitizer replacement parts on eBay originating from China at about $100 so I took the chance and ordered a new screen. It arrived 2 weeks after and looked good.

    With the instructions on how to disassemble the TF201 posted on this forum, it was quickly open and the glass/digitizer/LCD is one subassembly connected to the mainboard with two flex cables - one for the LCD and one for the digitizer.

    Next step is to power off the system internally. There is a small internal switch in the lower left corner that you should switch to the off position. The LCD and digitizer cables can now be disconnected from the mainboard. The connectors open easily by putting a nail under the white frame of the correctors and pulling the frame up and then pull out the flex cables. You now have the glass/digitizer/LCD separated from the mainboard.

    The LCD has a few screws to hold it to the plastic frame - these should be removed at this step. Mine only has two screws mounted although there is room for more (bad assembly quality or a fix for screen bleeding???)

    Now comes the hard part and the part where I failed! There is a plastic frame around the edges of the glass that you need to remove and mount on the new glass. This plastic part holds all the taps that keep the tablet together and it is taped to the glass with some VERY sticky tape!
    I used a scalpel to cut between the plastic and the glass with the result that the glass broke in tiny pieces as I went around, but as I saw no other way I kept going... It might have been better to use a heat gun or a hairblower to heat up the glue before trying to remove it, but I was worried that the LCD might be damaged by the heat.
    The plastic frame has to be removed first to have access to the foam tape that is used to tape the LCD to the glass/digitizer. Once the plastic frame was off, I again used the knife to gently cut the foam tape (around 1 mm thick) all around the LCD screen so that this can be removed from the glass.
    Here I might have made my second mistake. I was worried that I would cut too deep into the foam and hit the LCD screen, but the foam at the bottom of the screen is a little wider than the rest and as I tried to remove the screen I used too much force and might have damaged the LCD - the end result was that also the LCD was damaged in the process. The damage might also have been caused by me pressing too hard on the screen during the removal of the plastic frame (might actually be more likely as the glass was broken across the screen and the damage I was seeing when I turned on the screen was following the same line as the crack).

    Well, I got the LCD off the broken screen and though I had been successful even thought it had taken a couple of hours to get there (I could not visually see that the LCD was damaged at this point).

    Then on to the assembly with the new screen/digitizer! I had some double sided tape that I used to tape the screen to the plastic, but decided to do a quick test before I fully assembled the unit and this turned out to be a good idea!

    I mounted the LCD screen with just the screws and connected the flex cables back into the connectors (these can be a little tricky to get in, so just be patient and keep wiggling them in and close the latches). I enabled the power again and pressed the power button and: DAMM - THE LCD IS BROKE!!!!
    After wiggling a little with the LCD cable I was able to get a partial image, but it was evident that I had mishandled the LCD screen during the disassembly and I needed a new screen to get my tablet working again - now I was glad that I did not glue the LCD to the glass, so that I needed both a new LCD and a new glass/digitizer!

    Off to the web to search for a replacement LCD screen... Hmm, lots of ebay listings for TF201 replacement LCDs, but none of them looked like the original I had... Then I searched for the partnumber on the LCD I took out (Hannstar HSD101PWW2 rev. 0-A00) and I did find a few items priced around $100.

    Before I started to spend more money on the device I wanted to check our if the digitizer was actually working, so I connected the tabled to my TV using the HDMI output to test...WHAT?? THE X-AXIS ON THE DIGITIZER WAS REVERTED!!!

    I double checked the flex cable connections, but everything was in order. I then compare my broken screen with the replacement part and noticed that the signal routing on the flex cable for the new part looked quite different than the original.

    I emailed the company that sold me the screen and he replied back that they JUST heard that some other customer have had the same problem - there might be different versions for the digitizer used in the TF201 (perhaps depending on production time)!!!
    He suggested that I tried a hard reboot and a system reset to default and I tried that without luck.
    I also tried to find a way to do a 5 point screen calibration, but this does not seem to be supported.

    Does anyone know of a way to revert the x axis by modifying a configuration file - and can that be done without rooting the device??
    Have anyone successfully replaced their screen - if so, could you reply with the partnumber listed on the flex cable? Mine is: 3KA12-5SCA01, 18100-10180100.

    They did offer to refund the price of the screen if I shipped the screen back to them, but I will most likely damage the screen when trying to remove the plastic frame and it will cost me shipping the part back to China. After a few mails exchanges they offered a $82 refund and I accepted that.

    I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD...
    2
    Continued...



    SUMMARY/LEARNING:

    - IF YOUR SCREEN ONLY HAS A SMALL CRACK - LIVE WITH IT OR TRY TO FIX IT WITH AUTO GLASS REPAIR GLUE

    - IF YOU REALLY WANT TO GO FOR DIY SCREEN REPLACEMENT, MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A DIGITIZER THAT WORKS WITH YOUR UNIT!

    - WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC FRAME FROM THE GLASS BE VERY CAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE LCD SCREEN BY PRESSING ON THE BROKEN GLASS AND TRY TO USE A HAIR DRYER TO HEAT UP THE GLUE (NOT TRIED THIS MYSELF)

    - WHEN CUTTING THE FOAM TAPE BETWEEN THE LCD AND THE SCREEN BE VERY CAREFULL TO CUT THOUGH ALL THE TAPE BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE THE LCD

    I now have a TF201 with a working touch screen that has the x-axis inverted and no LCD... Unless I get the touch screen issue resolved I most likely will get a TF700 instead of my broken prime - I really loved the prime for the 4 months I had it working...
    1
    Happened to me too!

    Bought a prime with an already cracked glass with the hope to fix it, as i do with most higrer-end devices (phones in particular)...
    I intended to pass it on to my mom as her first tablet. When i bought it, it was fully usable and after two weeks (before the digitizer got delivered) my mom got addicted to it.
    Then i got the digitizer in the mail... I cracker the tablet open, unhooked the front assembly and started going at it. First i tried removing the screws in the hope that the lcd would easily seperate from the digitizer. Sadly that wasn't the case so my next action was to try and seperate the lcd and digitizer from the plastic frame... i broke off a piece of black glass that was over the frame and started working my way arround the gap with small but tough shears so that i would brake the glass off from the frame, working my way arround the screen and digitizer, while removing any broken glass from the frame at the same time. Took two hours and the two were seperated. Tried to connect the lcd to the tablet to see if it still worked, and it did. So i was left with what i thought was an easy task of seperating the lcd and digitizer by lifting the adhesive. Top, left and right went rather easily. I added thin plastic mediator-like opening tools arround the edge so that the lcd wouldn't get stuck back to the adhesive (was trying to preserve the adhesive stips for re-installation). When only the bottom one was left still attached i went with the experience/common-sence approach to start prying the lcd away from the digitizer where i thought the adhesive strip would be the same size and would easily give way... That's probably when the lcd couldn't take it and cracked.
    Had i used a scalpel all arround- i would have been left with a perfectly working tablet, but all i had was a tablet with a cracked lcd. So i gave up on this not wanting to crack another (costly) lcd and sold it on ebay. That, and because it was a little too big and heavy to use on the train every day going and from work.

    So what have i learned from this?
    1. For tablets with glue-stripped-on LCD's ALWAYS break the glass arround the frame (with high caution) to seperate the digitizer+LCD from the frame
    2. ALWAYS use a scalpel in between the adhesive and digitizer (making shure that when you insert it, you can see it infront of the LCD and behind the digitizer. If needed, angle the scalpel so that it rests on the digitizer and not the LCD. (LCD pannel edges ussually have a strip of metal or plastic arround the edge, so you won't damage them if you use light force on that area, as opposed to the glass itself.)


    Hope people who do break their primes get to see these posts before attempting any repairs.
    1
    Where did you find the part number for the digitzer? Is it near the tiny QR code, or on it?
    1
    same thing

    I have exactly the same issue: axis-x is inverted.
    I got it, thought it's broken or fake or whatever and sent it back. Bought another one from a different seller. Same problem.

    I'm not a programmer, but I feel it can be fixed easy on a software level (just don't know where to look for it)

    Here is my video:
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